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My Oratex experience

The stuff seems to this outside observer to be winning you guys over, slowly yeah, but it seems to be happening. Enough anyway, along with the personal comments I've heard from others who have used it, to make me almost wish I could have an excuse to use it. But try as I can, my plane remains in one piece and in no need of a major repair/rebuild.

I do need to sell my one time used outside air supplier respirator mask setup, as if and when I do recover anything it will be with Oratex, I'm sold enough to give it a shot.
 
I will stick with polyfiber until the oratex gets about 50 years of abuse in the field, at least I will have a known product when working on customers aircraft...
 
I hear you, one reason my plane is holding up so well is I used PolyFiber/Stits process, all I know, its served me well 5 planes now.and I'd do the same in your situation. But for a kitplane, for my old ass self, I m not looking that far down the road! Quick and dirty works for me, if it saves weight and the laborius time consuming coatings process, and doesn't blow off first flight, I'm in.
 
The other thing about oratex is they want you to wax it. Many times. And from now on you are stuck rewaxing it for life. We got away from paint that needed waxing 30+ years ago. Did they count that in on their weight calculations??


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Nothing wrong with what you did. Normally the bottom is done first and then the sides to hide the overlapping seams underneath out of sight.
The guys at Oratex recommend the bottom skin last. Reason being is you can heat the glue line and fold back the skin, cleanout or repair / inspect what you need to and re-apply the same skin back into place. The skin is thin enough it is hard to see the edge.
 
The guys at Oratex recommend the bottom skin last. Reason being is you can heat the glue line and fold back the skin, cleanout or repair / inspect what you need to and re-apply the same skin back into place. ..

"premature optimization is the root of all evil"(knuth?)....

and besides that that's ugly, only seen one person do that in 30+ years... and did i mention its ugly too???

you can always just pop an inspection panel/ring onto existing belly fabric if the need arises..
 
Wax it once as year. Makes for easy bug, dirt, exhaust and stain removal. The wax gives a bit of luster to the Otx finish.

Also you can add an inspection ring anytime during the planes lifetime. Clean the area, sper glue a plastic ring, cut hole, done. No doilly required.
 
I do like the easy inspection hole ability!!

As I understand it from Lars, the bottom fabric last idea was for ease of repair etc. the tapes are really good at hiding the seam.
but I put mine on the bottom stringer, hid the seam AND saved 16’ of fabric.

Also the wax is for those that want the Oratex to be somewhat shiney, like painted fabric.
 
Not having to smell MEK sounds good to me. After two Pitts rebuilds and loss of many brain cells this sounds good to me. Oh did I mention sanding sanding and sanding
 
I thought I would pass on to those that are thinking about Oratex:

I used electrical tape to mock up a paint scheme and it left permanent marks (stains?) in the Oratex coating.
I have tried every solvent I can think of and they will not come out.
alcohol
citrisolve
wd-40
magic eraser
oratex cleaner
3m adhesive remover
acetone
mek
and others

So DO NOT PUT ELECTRICAL TAPE ON ORATEX.

on the bright side, Oratex can handle a lot of different chemicals.
 
Clay bar to the rescue.

I thought I would pass on to those that are thinking about Oratex:

I used electrical tape to mock up a paint scheme and it left permanent marks (stains?) in the Oratex coating.
I have tried every solvent I can think of and they will not come out.
alcohol
citrisolve
wd-40
magic eraser
oratex cleaner
3m adhesive remover
acetone
mek
and others

So DO NOT PUT ELECTRICAL TAPE ON ORATEX.

on the bright side, Oratex can handle a lot of different chemicals.
 
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There is a spray cleaner called Greased Lightning. Seems to be a cross between Windex and paint stripper. I use it for gas stains on paint. Work fast. Test first.
 
I'm planning an exp. build and have been researching fabric, paint and vinyl. My intent is oratex with vinyl emblems wanting to save labor and weight. Speaking to BAF they stated the vinyl should be breathable to avoid potential bubbling over time. Additionally the graphic shop stated their vinyl lifespan at 5-7 years. The vinyl lifespan concerns me as does potential bubbling. Any others with experience on the subject or a recommendation for a vinyl shop in anchorage ak?
 
On RC models, bubbles are something that happens only on installation. Pop with a pin, and the hole is barely noticeable on a 4 foot model. Probably invisible at full scale. My concern would be lifespan and pressing hard enough on unsupported fabric. Is breathable vinyl possible? Shiny on one side and adhesive on the other.
I wonder if using solid color Monkote would work as trim. Much thinner and lighter. To use Monokote as trim you have to heat tack in a million places before an overall ironing. Otherwise it will shrink before it even touches the substrate. This is done routinely on models, Mono over Mono as trim. Would it stick to woven oratex? Monokote sticks pretty well to 400grit sanded wood.
 
the graphic shop stated their vinyl lifespan at 5-7 years. The vinyl lifespan concerns me

and that's why I only use vinyl for NNumbers (and I've had a few on different airplanes that I had to replace after only a few years...)

the failure mode is they curl up from the edges... I will post a couple pictures of OLD vinyl failures locally(chugiak), not sure how old they are... (need to remember to take pictures)

I doubt you save weight using vinyl.....
 
I have done 6 rebuild doing 2 super cubs this winter and that is all I use is vinyl numbers and strips.all are on aerothane paint .my cub was done 20 years ago with poly tone and vinyl stripes still looks great has 3000 hrs flying I all weather conditions up to - 35f.shows a little wear good for long time yet.one cub with aerothane all Mose as old less hrs .the 12we did with oretec is first one.
 
I have put Vinyl auto striping on my test piece w Oratex, and left out in the weather, 6 months so far - no lift no bubbles

Oratex makes their own “vinyl” striping and graphics, comes from Germany, and very expensive, but they will do custom.
 
Is anyone doing Oratex "commercially"... As in, If I needed my wings rebuilt and recovered, are folks out there using Oratex?
 
I'm sure any good all around fabrics guy would take it on, one who wanted to see what all the buzz was about. They could get educated on the stuff, on your nickel, why wouldn't they? Others, more conservative, may take a pass.
 
There is a guy here in Alaska, Birchwood I have heard, that is covering w Oratex.

After my experience, I would not hesitate to tell some one they could do it themselves.

but,

I would not pay someone to learn on my airplane. It is just too different from “regular” fabric precess.
 
Mike, I remember you talking awhile back about someone that covered with Oratex and it was in rags the next season? I ask because I'll be recovering my cub in the near future and am considering Oratex but leaning towards Stitts. Would you elaborate on your observations of the Oratex?

Thanks
 
My apologies. It's been a couple years, must have been someone else.
 
I can for sure see how someone who makes a living using traditional covering techniques, would not take on a Oratex job, why rock the boat? I also know there are shops out there, maybe a bit hungrier, that may be a bit more open to new techniques and material, that would welcome the chance to do an Oratex job. Maybe even at a discount, as it would be understood there would be a learning curve.

My only personal fabric experience is 100% Stits/Polyfiber/Polytone, 5 planes, and I'm real happy with it. My current 13 year old plane, kept hangared, 2500 hr TT, still looks great with no issues. But I'm also a weight weenie, and saving maybe 15 to 30 (I've heard all kinds of numbers) pounds would for sure make me strongly consider the O option next time. I also don't really care about the cosmetics, more about ease of repair, light of a weight as possible, and longevity, in that order.

My only first hand knowledge of the stuff is that Hal Stockman, winner of the STOL Oshkosh event this year, and a long time experiential builder and pilot, and a fellow weight weenie, used it, and just said that after a bit of a learning curve (as compared to his previous Stits work) he liked it, and FOR SURE it paid off in the weight department.
 
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