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Selkirk Cub cowlings

9

96chevtruck

Registered User
Twin Falls , Idaho
Just wondering how Selkirk cowlings are holding up and how hard they are to install, building Backcountry super cub and want to go as light as possible on build.
 
I'm just installing a set now, nice workmanship. The left side door humped up about an 1/8 inch on front edge 5 inches below hinge. curvature is slightly wrong in that area. I was not satisfied and laid up a carbon fiber rib and hysol it to under side of side cowl, it worked perfectly and does not cause any problem, makes the side cowl lay just right to nose bowl. Some guys could install in a day I'm sure, that's not me. Keep in mind the entire cowling is quite ridged as you would expect, there is no pulling that side cowl hump flat with the DZUS. T
 
Tbag said:
I'm just installing a set now, nice workmanship. The left side door humped up about an 1/8 inch on front edge 5 inches below hinge. curvature is slightly wrong in that area. I was not satisfied and laid up a carbon fiber rib and hysol it to under side of side cowl, it worked perfectly and does not cause any problem, makes the side cowl lay just right to nose bowl. Some guys could install in a day I'm sure, that's not me. Keep in mind the entire cowling is quite ridged as you would expect, there is no pulling that side cowl hump flat with the DZUS. T
Click to expand...
I assume you have to fit side doors and hinges too or does it come from Selkirk that way. Is there much trimming to fit to boot cowl. Thanks.
 
Trim front of side cowls in order to get a good line along the "joggle" in nose bowl, that line is not straight and has a bit of a great circle route to it. once you have that front line perfect you tape down side cowls tight and establish a cut line on bottom of side cowl that leaves 1" overlap on lower cowl (Dzus installs in that overlap) last cut is back edge of side cowl for proper overlap of boot cowl. plans do not mention that you need a 3 1/2" stand off block between edge of firewall and side cowl in back in order to maintain good airflow out back. Sorry to be so wordy in my text but there is plenty chances to screw up some expensive carbon. my mount is zero thrust so I needed excess for trimming, Mike could prep this cowl very quickly as he has been using his technic of establishing his cut line 1",2",or 3" further forward then measuring that same distance back on the side cowl and cutting that line. I am making it more complicated than it really is, will go get some pictures and try to post. T
 
Tbag said:
..plans do not mention that you need a 3 1/2" stand off block between edge of firewall and side cowl in back in order to maintain good airflow out back.
Click to expand...

my preferred was always a 1 litter mountain dew bottle taped sideways to boot cowl, because I used to live on that stuff :)
 
These Selkirk pictures show the finished cowl after you do all trimming on your cub, not on the bench. Mike I hope my chunk of 2x4 is the same size as your mountain dew. I am having trouble posting pictures will get some help tomorrow. T
 
FWIW a guy I know installed one of their composite cowls on his 55 C180.
I don't know if it's heavier or lighter than the original, or how much fitting it mighta taken,
(he hired it done, along with a fresh overall paint job)
but the finished product looks great!
 
Mike, I went to the Hayden ID shop several times and asked why the hinge and why the round intakes, I was told it was to avoid legal conflict with Cub Crafters and that cowling. I have looked long and hard at a different hinge setup but I do not have your abilities. my thought is a much less beefy hinge folded under top edge of side cowl, but that brings up rivet head and buck head clearance within that fold, probably makes that top edge stick up a lot. now would be the time for me to make a hinge change if it makes sense. T
 
Tbag said:
..I was told it was to avoid legal conflict with Cub Crafters and that cowling.
Click to expand...

that's laughable! cub crafters got their start COPYING Atlee's stuff, literally he brought a copy machine into the FAA and copied Atlee's Data...... is the story I have heard from many people....
 
Attlee Paperwork

mike mcs repair said:
that's laughable! cub crafters got their start COPYING Atlee's stuff, literally he brought a copy machine into the FAA and copied Atlee's Data...... is the story I have heard from many people....
Click to expand...

Jus thought I'd mention that the one time I met Atlee he gave me every possible J-3 mod for my 135/150 J-3 banner planes. Wing tanks, PA-18 seats, PA-18 struts etc etc. X brace in nose, PA-18 trim. Gave it to me. Never forgot it. Way ahead of his time in "open source" as far as I was concerned.
 
Attlee did the same for me. I told him my J-3 had most of his STC’s, but none of them had the raised seal or green signature. I said I wanted to buy all of them so that my paperwork was correct. He sent me all of the ones I asked for, as well as all the rest of his J-3 STC’s for nothing.
 
Thanks Stewart, I am looking at moving those hinges underneath now, would be nice to not stare at them as I motor along at 90 mph. my cub will win no trophies , Oratex, LyCon motor, no real interior, no nothing, just a desert buggy. T
 
The cowl looks nice. Interesting how they make the nose bowl part of the upper and lower cowls. I'd like to see more pics if you're willing.
 
Stewart, I would like to forward pictures of my baby, mostly scratch built from memory. I really like the cowls as there is no support channels, it is integral carbon fiber rails. Seems the extent of my tech skills are sending text photos to a phone from my I phone. If you private message me your phone number I will text you, or if you rather I will just give you my cell phone now? seems the whole world already has it. T
 
No channels? I didn't expect that. I never cared for their Cessna interior parts but the cowl looks like a great idea.
 
The hinges are done the same as Cub Crafters 180 hp STC'd cowling. You don't notice it when painted and out of all the CC 180 hp Super Cubs I have maintained over the years I have never had an issue with them. Probably that way because the carbon is thicker than aluminum and they are using Mil Spec hinges.
 
Thanks for the input Steve, I'm just going to finish it the way Selkirk furnished it. Like most things that bother me an hour after I start using it, never give it another thought
 
If money was not a factor, I would buy a Selrick.

DW on this site got one





This is a a crashed CubCrafters cowling I've rebuilt. I really don't mind seing the hinges. They help to catch the eye so you don't see other defect.

9XCumx2G5rz2fWVuFaA-hUdAbwc-rN3oZt4Y-OkGzaXn9-9ugQ9IFowcM54_eMrsVScjgYUNBkr1Sik6BtR58SSpSWR7Qunl_jujxcOaKPxl5bF96zL9S5QW0JOwvvCSdvVbzlxi-R1KRLsv6cUNKUCWVzXBCsVKrcDI8b1WZrUNAWvwBha_9Z-SjKZ5h1OyJrimi4iyk9FQNYCDLrEXEz1Lo0roFYUxpES79orFTvZrmR4uORJBVeytPfgKcy1na4cnYaxyK___fB82aiKXepjmKSHFwhj6HfaSplgXBkmT7C1rIqlM4sVtnaZoMVDyos62P_KZ_hbSCp2eE9ML1a8L0jGz5JZPQwe3JeYc1t9xMMmydISY37eA1l76EAKqjwmUAotWN7v50WwK1gmfni0NVYk83GuqzI5c7GZ7rOXsN4z5Xfb_DhJ8FBAbCFC-t5sWC-GOuKRyKGTb3l4-ThL28xgf8Z8MySBQoS8vY7WIFD23UZjhgWgFqMapg7yy4nh_RZU2z9NDQv78XS-WnJ_jIRpqhMDdtdurbY8J4LamecY5kNmZOb5etW0_JrOc3fVSDLWN7lziuVTkPECVd86f-9LeneCeF1r_goQt5oydRf2Twe8rnn8R7LWiMAR2jLMYHKoFk_Btj02TxfWfWDyIXFhXm_PyGt9mY4JSqQVmYxDebDQoZBCKXQA5Hr1IqxvVTuxVOOIYdTWe2OXeMaYj=w1678-h1258-no
 
The top cowl integral support channel would seem to interfere with placing hinge underneath , as for side cowl the carbon fiber seems to be much thicker than 032 Alu on the CC cowl. Starts to make everything stand tall.
 
Tbag said:
The top cowl integral support channel would seem to interfere with placing hinge underneath...
Click to expand...

thanks for that, that makes sense...

but still ugly, probably better to move that channel inboard.... I'm probably too picky... but, I'm too picky!!!
 
Tbag said:
The top cowl integral support channel would seem to interfere with placing hinge underneath
Click to expand...
Is this support channel at the edge of the top cowl so that the hinge could be fastened to the side of the channel? I agree with mike, it looks ugly on top.
 
Skywagon8a yes, I think that would work regarding the top cowl, still leaves a fat sandwich of side cowl carbon and hinge. I will go to the hanger now and check it out with that in mind
 
Tbag said:
Skywagon8a yes, I think that would work regarding the top cowl, still leaves a fat sandwich of side cowl carbon and hinge. I will go to the hanger now and check it out with that in mind
Click to expand...
Check to see if the hinge will work in reverse so that when the side cowl is closed the hinge is fully opened. It does open more than 180 degrees. If it is close you can bend the hinge a little in a brake to make it fit.
 
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