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Thread: Bushwacker 2.0 a.k.a. Cub Killer

  1. #41
    gbflyer's Avatar
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    Doesn’t get much better than that. Very cool!

  2. #42

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    when i look at this picture, all i can think of is a king in his throne. I like it. awesome.

  3. #43

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    What material and thickness did you use for your flooring and siding?

  4. #44
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vj88 View Post
    What material and thickness did you use for your flooring and siding?
    The floor material is a composite with honeycomb core, I think it was Boeing surplus. It came in a 5 X 10 sheet .375 thick.
    The side panels and extended baggage are .020 and powdercoat with the hammer finish.
    The upper is Oratex in silver I had left over from the Super Cub build.

  5. #45
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    How long are your wings beyond the strut? Would you mind sharing anything you did with the spars out there?

  6. #46
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    I have not put a tape measure on them past the strut but compared to a Cub it is a long distance. These wings were certified at 2500 pounds by Maule originally at 33'8" of wing span. Because this airplane is a IO-360, it is pretty hard load the airplane to a gross weight of 2500. Most the time I am 2300 or less fully loaded for an adventure.

    The spar splice was done with Maule spar blank material and doubler on both sides of the spar and one extra rib. I am sure I have some pictures of that somewhere. As I stated earlier I also increased the .020 upper skin to .025 but I did that more for aesthetics but probably does nut hurt. If you shake a Maule wing it does not move a whole lot compared to shaking a Super Cub with extended wings. I did not have any engineering done so I guess I am a test pilot. Maules were certified with a never exceed speed of 180 mph I believe and you would be hard pressed even in a dive straight down to do that on 35" ABW. I only lengthened the one spar by 12" (I think it is the rear) the front has to be lengthened more because of the way they did there wing tips the front spar is shorter to start with. I never liked the way they balanced there aileron externally. I had caught it a number of times on branches so I decide to do Dakota wing tips and balance the aileron internally.
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  7. #47
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #48
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    You are one hell of a craftsman Greg!
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  9. #49
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    Looks like a lot of work and a lot of patience. great build Greg! Looking forward to seeing you out in your new flying machine in Idaho this year.

  10. #50

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    You have come up with some creative ideas. I like the look of your oleo's. Do you run oil in your Oleo's? How is the rebound dampening with you setup? It is going to be hard not to compare your new plane with Paul's new 4 place cub. It would be fun to see them side by side.

  11. #51
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    I don't have enough time with the new designed oleo to say to much yet. I did run all polyurethane discs before in the Maule style oleo. I just incorporated the spring in the new design and made the canister larger diameter to allow for larger polyurethane discs, I think it will probably be awesome. I have ran something very similar on my cubs for a long time and I like it a lot. To me the AOSS is to rigid and I have modified many units over the years to incorporate the 3" die spring along with the polyurethane and in my opinion it is superior for off airport. The die spring takes the initial hit and the the polyurethane does the rest. You really can't bottom out the polyurethane but you can the spring so you get much softer landings in rough stuff but you don't have to worry about bottoming the unit out. They don't have any oil, they have a bronze bushing where the shaft moves and I spray some LPS in there for a little rust protection.
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  12. #52

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    would you give a picture from up behind the seat to give a perspective on how wide the instrument panel is?
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  13. #53
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    Did you go with high compression pistons again?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauleguy View Post
    Yes, it has a rear seat like the Maule for two passengers. I moved it forward around 7" from the stock position of a Maule. The passengers would get in the front doors now from either side and there legs when seated would go up to the main structure cross bar. It actually gives them more leg room then a stock Maule. I have not had it in since I did the fuselage build up but the wife will get a ride soon. I have about 7 hours on it now so still getting use to it but for the most part it feels like a Super Cub. The visibility is much better than my Super Cub both landing and taxing on the ground.
    Gorgeous plane and a really nice build Greg! I am looking forward to seeing how it performs and following it!

  15. #55
    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    Very nice build and lots of creative ideas. If you need somebody to mess up that shop give me a call. That's way to clean.

  16. #56
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    DJ, No on the high compression pistons. I actually have not touched the motor, other then making it work for me. Changed the sump to forward facing from rear facing, added B&C 20 amp accessory mount alternator, changed the oil filter adapter to a different style, new plugs and wiring harness, new baffling, some paint here and there while I had things apart.

    My shop is usually pretty clean but it is something I have trained myself over the years to do. It is easier for me to find things and when you have as many tools as I do it is a must. I still find myself wondering around thinking to myself where the heck did I leave that thing! I am also running my machine shop in the same space so it just makes life easier.

  17. #57
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  18. #58
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauleguy View Post
    Attachment 41333that is all I have right now
    bad link

  19. #59

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    Greg, I’m sure you’ve thought this thru. But as a 2 Maule owner I was never a fan of the Oleo’s, kind of pogo sticky like cub bungees. Especially when flying light.
    After flying with TK 1’s (cub) I cant imagine life without.
    A little more external drag but what sold me was rebound dampening, the ability to keep wheels planted on the ground when landing rolling, rough terrain. Better braking = shorter landing, and less abuse on the airframe.
    Think they would be pretty easy to adapt.
    Just a thought.
    Really enjoyed following your Maule builds, you are very talented.
    Doug
    Last edited by Oliver; 02-07-2019 at 09:45 PM.
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  20. #60
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    I have only flown Mike Olsens cub with TK-1, so not much time on them myself. Others of course love them, I did not like all the bulkiness of the unit and the early ones I saw were not even using AN hardware, they have probably changed that by now.

    I have used polyurethane disc segments in my Maule oleo canisters with no spring for at least 10 years and they don't pogo you at all, I incorporated the short die spring because I liked it in my unit on the cub which also has polyurethane segments.

    If I were to try and adapt anything it would be the Acme, I like the looks and reports from people I know that use them say there is nothing out there to beat them. The Acme and Maule canisters are also much more streamlined so with my goal of going faster not slower the TK-1 is out.
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  21. #61
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    I am still figuring out Bushwacker 2.0 but I did fly it back to back with my Super Cub today. Here is what I found, I can land as short maybe a little shorter with Bushwacker. I was testing earlier in the day with Bushwacker and later in the day with the Cub. The temperature was about the same but the wind had picked up by the time I was in the Cub. With Bushwacker I was landing at 34 one direction (into the wind) and 37 the opposite direction. With the Cub I was landing at 33 (into the wind) and 41 the opposite, this was using my GPS and landing the exact same spot with the same type of approach. I had better visibility over the nose in Bushwacker at touch down and could use more brake action without getting the tail to high and having to release brake pressure. The landing distance for the two aircraft were very close with Bushwacker getting the nod for shortest landings. The cub on the other hand go off the ground quicker but it was not probably a fair test since I had probably 4-5mph wind for take off vs 1-2 when I was testing Bushwacker. The Cub seemed to feel lighter and quicker but that is to be expected since it is 170 lbs lighter. I had about the same fuel in each and about the same amount of gear.

    Bushwacker does not cruise as fast as I thought, I now have RPM and Manifold pressure. At 21 in mp and 2350 rpm I get a fuel burn at 500-600 ft. above sea level of 9.5 gph. That gives me a cruise speed of around 105 mph on the gps (calculated for winds flown 4 directions). That is better than old Bushwacker but not as good as I was thinking of 115 mph (turns out my airspeed indicator is about 10 mph off in cruising). That speed is not a whole lot better then my Super Cub which with my 1P-235 84/44, I cruise at around 100+mph on 8 gph.

    I was out and did another speed test with the airplane at 1300 ft agl I was running 2400 rpm and 26"mp buring 12 gph I was seeing 115mph GPS adjust for winds.
    Last edited by Mauleguy; 02-09-2019 at 11:36 AM. Reason: more info
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  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauleguy View Post
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    Is picture 3, your adjustable incidence? Please post more pictures of this mod and give us updates on your adjustments.

    Thank you. Jonny

  23. #63
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    Is picture 3, your adjustable incidence? Please post more pictures of this mod and give us updates on your adjustments.

    Thank you. Jonny

    Yes it is. Since I did not know exactly where I would need to set this because of the angle of incidence change. I still really don't because I have not loaded it up. It allows me to move the horizontal up and down in 1/2" increments. I have moved it a total of 1 1/2" down from where I started hoping to get stick pressures down on landing (more nose up at the leading edge). I still have the stock Maule style trim tab and have modified it to have 48 degrees of nose up and 12 degrees of movement nose down. I am actually back up to the original position I started at, it made it harder to pick up the tail by moving the leading edge down, it would probably make me run out of nose down trim in that position fully loaded aft. At this point I am flying around with about 30 lbs in the aft baggage (that is approximately 100" from leading edge) to compensate for my lack of nose up trim on landing when light. When I say light, that is me and low on fuel (10 gallons), if I have full fuel it is almost zero stick pressure. I have decided to leave it where it is at for now. I am going to build up a set of airfoil horizontals as the feedback I have received on the issue is pointing me in that direction.

    If you look at the picture I am using the top hole for my top bolt currently. I have actually tested it lower than the rail allows for both upper and lower bolts to be inserted. The bottom bolt was below my bottom hole by one hole. I did that to see how far I had to go down before the stick pressure was close to zero on landing. It is fairly easy to change other than laying on your back and reaching up inside the fuselage with all the blood running out of your arms. I can make the change in less than 10 minutes so if I find it useful to make the change for some reason such as a heavy load and not enough nose down trim it could be done with a little effort.
    Last edited by Mauleguy; 02-08-2019 at 09:51 AM.
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  24. #64
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ID:	41405I am not sure why the one picture looks so dusty because it was not, anyway it gives an idea of how my paint booth was set up. It was just 2x4's and tyvek. I think I have around 1000.00 into it with all the lighting. I built this paint booth so that I could use it again. I made the ceiling in two 12'X12' panels and hinged on the wall side so that I could hoist the un-hinged side higher and still get my airplane in the hangar when I was not using it. The ends and side walls are also in 12' X 8' sections and I move them flat against the side wall so I only lose about 10" of space in the hangar. The end with the fan had an 8' wide door that was hinged so I good get things in and out easily. I just broke it down last weekend and it took me about two hours to do. Next time I need to paint an airplane I think I could set it back up in about the same amount of time. The fuselage I painted with just the lights on the ceiling and a moveable double halogen lamp. It made it difficult so I added the lights down each side for the rest of the painting. For the most part I was happy with it, I started painting at the end of September and painted most stuff when the temperature was just about perfect (mid 70's). By the time I got to the ailerons and flaps it had turned cold out (50's) so I used some electric heaters to heat it up. I would turn them off shoot my paint, than turn them back on after it cleared and get it back up to 70. It worked but it was a lot harder to control.
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  25. #65
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ID:	41407Picture of jig for building my ailerons, it worked excellent. You can buy the extruded aluminum bar that is perfectly straight through McMaster Carr with the T slot bolts and T's. I machined the hanger adapter. The other side is a piece of 1/2" X 6" aluminum flat bar I had laying around so I bolted it to my cart.
    Both ailerons came out flat, I cheated and bought the leading edge skin and nose ribs from Maule. I had some old spar pieces laying around that were not long enough in one section so I spar spliced them. I only have a 4' brake and shear and these are 77" long so I paid to have the skins cut and bent. I made my own trailing edge ribs except for a few old ones that I had and reused.
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  26. #66
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ID:	41419Attachment 41408I looked for a picture on how I did the spar splice on Bushwacker and could not find a picture. This is how I did it on the Super Cub wing and I did about the same thing except the doubler over the top of the spar can't be done on a Maule spar because of the metal skin and flush ribs. I did do a doubler on the underside of both top and bottom of the spar on the side that does not get riveted if that makes any sense....
    Last edited by Mauleguy; 02-09-2019 at 04:24 PM. Reason: picture lost?
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  27. #67
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ID:	41420Attachment 41409Here is a picture of what caused this long rebuild process, it really was an easy fix right here. The next morning not so much, the wind had picked up the airplane and taken it a distance and slammed it down upside down. Ugh!
    Last edited by Mauleguy; 02-09-2019 at 04:25 PM. Reason: picture lost?
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  28. #68
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauleguy View Post
    Is picture 3, your adjustable incidence? Please post more pictures of this mod and give us updates on your adjustments.

    Thank you. Jonny

    Yes it is. Since I did not know exactly where I would need to set this because of the angle of incidence change. I still really don't because I have not loaded it up. It allows me to move the horizontal up and down in 1/2" increments. I have moved it a total of 1 1/2" down from where I started hoping to get stick pressures down on landing (more nose up at the leading edge). I still have the stock Maule style trim tab and have modified it to have 48 degrees of nose up and 12 degrees of movement nose down. I am actually back up to the original position I started at, it made it harder to pick up the tail by moving the leading edge down, it would probably make me run out of nose down trim in that position fully loaded aft. At this point I am flying around with about 30 lbs in the aft baggage (that is approximately 100" from leading edge) to compensate for my lack of nose up trim on landing when light. When I say light, that is me and low on fuel (10 gallons), if I have full fuel it is almost zero stick pressure. I have decided to leave it where it is at for now. I am going to build up a set of airfoil horizontals as the feedback I have received on the issue is pointing me in that direction.

    If you look at the picture I am using the top hole for my top bolt currently. I have actually tested it lower than the rail allows for both upper and lower bolts to be inserted. The bottom bolt was below my bottom hole by one hole. I did that to see how far I had to go down before the stick pressure was close to zero on landing. It is fairly easy to change other than laying on your back and reaching up inside the fuselage with all the blood running out of your arms. I can make the change in less than 10 minutes so if I find it useful to make the change for some reason such as a heavy load and not enough nose down trim it could be done with a little effort.
    The Piper J4 has the same setup, it allows you to adjust the stab to a perfect fixed setting. I think mine has 7 staggered holes. When on floats it's 3 holes from where it is on wheels. 1930s tech


    lenn
    Last edited by cubdriver2; 02-09-2019 at 12:24 PM.
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  29. #69
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    The first time I built Bushwacker I did it in about 12 months. I really did not do a lot of custom parts, I added extended gear, titanium firewall and gull wing light weight doors with the biggest wing Maule had ever built to an M5 fuselage. My goal was to build the lightest best performing off airport Maule ever built. It had 31" ABW because that was the biggest tire at the time and a 1P235-84/44 propeller and a stock 3200 tailwheel. It had a Lycoming engine that was 1600 hours since TBO that I bought through Wentworth and did nothing to it for another 500 hours. I had less than 35K dollars in the whole project and it exceeded my expectations it weighed 1257 pounds empty.

    I was the first person to ever run the 35" Alaskan Bushwheel, I also added a 90" propeller pitched at 33 and a Baby Bushwheel. I upped the compression to 10.5 to 1 and did a custom exhaust, at that point it weighed around 1300 plus pounds. I never did an official weight and balance after the first weighing but Mike Olsen wanted to know what it weighed and when I had his Staggerwing for a couple weeks he took it upon himself to weigh Bushwacker. He told me she weighed 1325 so that was the weight I have used since. Most of you have seen the results in the video Big Rocks and Long Props Vol. 1, "what an airplane". I could haul a 1000 pounds, easily loaded with the big double doors and it still really perform well. I hope that with time Bushwacker 2.0 will add to those early days of awe.
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  30. #70

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ID:	41804Yesterday, I flew south with a buddy who has a PA11 and met Greg and Bushwacker 2.0 at Cottonwood Island.
    What a cool airplane. What's not to like?
    Bushwacker has a huge baggage area with a 7' flat floor, lots of fuel/ range, cruise at 115 on 35s, land at 35, great visibility, big Keller flaps...
    The airplane has Greg's typical workmanship and thoughtful layout and is set up for flying like 90% of us 90% of the time--single seat with a big back seat for that 10%. Greg's a really good stick and that might account for some of it, but I was thoroughly impressed which according to a nasty rumor is not easy to do.
    Last edited by Carey Gray; 03-04-2019 at 11:29 AM.

  31. #71

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    Very nice! Reminds me of that single seat PA14.

  32. #72

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    Greg,

    Are you happy with how the new plane is working? Any video yet?

    Thanks,
    Joe

  33. #73
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemcd View Post
    Greg,

    Are you happy with how the new plane is working? Any video yet?

    Thanks,
    Joe
    I like it, it does perform pretty well. I still have a few issues that I will keep working on.
    #1 The propeller does not feel like it is pulling as hard out of the hole as it use to with the 180hp Bushwacker. I am going to try a 90" fixed pitch just so I can compare it to what I was using before.
    #2 The tail feels heavier than before (which I think is a propeller thing) NEED MORE THRUST!

    I am also going to build airfoil horizontals for it. When I get really slow I run out of nose up trim and have to hold stick pressure when landing. I think that may help based on talking with Doug Keller.

    As for video, I still don't have anything. I will see if I can get someone to do a little video of me this weekend if it is still nice out.
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  34. #74
    skukum12's Avatar
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    Update?
    "Always looking up"

  35. #75
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    Sorry not much to add. I shot some video with my good camera but the cable port on the camera seems to have gone bad.

    I had the propeller shop pull the 84" blades and replaced them with 80" blades and it does feel like the thrust is better. I have bought new cylinders with 10-1 pistons and think that is going to help a lot. I might wait until winter to put them on now.

    I still have not completed my airfoil H.S., I have one almost finished but the other one was powder coated and it is a bitch stripping the coating off so it kind of slowed my roll.
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  36. #76
    DJ's Avatar
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    Curious about the decision to go to a shorter prop. Can you share more?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1

  37. #77
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    What it felt like with the 84" to get the 2700 rpm on take off was I was just beating the air. The propeller pitch stop had to be set so flat that it did not feel like it pulled very hard, even with the 80" it still has to be set flatter then I would like and if you change it (the set screw on the front of the hub) just a little you can not get the full RPM on take off. You have to remember these propeller blades were used on 6 cylinder Lycomings with more HP and more Torque. These O-360 engines usually run a 74" or 76" propeller.

  38. #78
    G44's Avatar
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    Greg, I wonder how it would do with an MT or Hartzell Trailblazer. Have you considered that?

    Kurt

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  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauleguy View Post
    Oops, sorry, I missed that.

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