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General C180 questions.

Talk about supply chain disruptions.

A/Spruce tell me no 3" Scat hose in until June. I tried locally and they were out. It'll be getting cold where I am by then.

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I snuck out yesterday before the Minister of Photography (and noise abatement procedures :wink: ) was home from work.

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Would anyone have some suggestions as to where my electrical man would find some specifications on this T&B circuit breaker? It reads as a Klixon CA 2.

It lives on top of the glovebox.

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Throw it away. As above, it's a self resetting 2 amp breaker for the stall horn. They are not sealed in any way and are unreliable to the extreme. Replace it with a push pull type breaker for safety sake.

Web
 
Hi guys.

I'm looking to purchase a set of 850 x 6 tyres. All right tires for you lot. Looking on A/Spruce I see the Goodyear are tubeless. I seem to remember the one's I had on the Cub had tubes.

What's everybody's favourite 850 tyres?

And while I'm in that general area the clear leading edge tap on the gear leg is in poor condition. Any do's or don'ts with the gear tape?
 
I like airtrac 850x6's, & have ran them on three different airplanes now.
I've toyed with the idea of running the 850x6 Dessers,
but I'm not sure if they are robust enough for a heavy-ish airplane like a skywagon.
Two advantages that I can see:
1) lighter weight
2) softer with only 4 plys, so maybe cushier at the same (safe) pressure than the airtracs.
FWIW I run my 850s at 20 psi.
 
Some better pics.

If you click on them they come up better.

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Has anyone successfully adjusted the parking brake cable. Mine will only allow enough movement to have the catch click into the first notch, and that's with too much pulling force. And when I say click that's only if one hand is holding the clip up.

I've ordered another spring of Cessna but am wondering how much adjustment is in the cable, tube assembly?

My childhood memory has the park brake working with 4 or 5 notches and not too much force.

Any guidance welcome.

Cheers.
 
Never have used mine so I’m sitting in the plane to try it. Turn the lever and pull, I have a pretty good tug to get one click.
 
Never have used mine so I’m sitting in the plane to try it. Turn the lever and pull, I have a pretty good tug to get one click.
On a long cross country I once read in my POH to "apply brakes before engaging parking brake" could be the issue.
 
Thanks guys. Yes mine needs adjusting. And so might yours Stewartb I'll see what I can get out of the nuts on the tube, if not I'll pull it and get a slightly longer cable made.

On a long cross country I once read in my POH to "apply brakes before engaging parking brake" could be the issue.

I couldn't imagine not doing so. But then I became an Airbus pilot. :smile:
 
Hi guys.

I'm looking to purchase a set of 850 x 6 tyres. All right tires for you lot. Looking on A/Spruce I see the Goodyear are tubeless. I seem to remember the one's I had on the Cub had tubes.

What's everybody's favourite 850 tyres?

And while I'm in that general area the clear leading edge tap on the gear leg is in poor condition. Any do's or don'ts with the gear tape?

I have run both Goodyears and Dessers/Airtracs on Cessna 185s. I found that, while the Goodyears cost a bit more, they outlasted the Dessers by almost double. And, the Goodyears I've had in past are just a bit larger in diameter, but I'm sure that may vary over time.

I like Goodyears, though.

MTV
 
Thanks, good to know. I was going to the States a bit earlier in the year, and thought I would take advantage of free shipping but I couldn't purchase 8.50 tyres anywhere.

Supply chain issues.
 
On a long cross country I once read in my POH to "apply brakes before engaging parking brake" could be the issue.

My brakes were applied. I tried it with and without pedals pushed. It didn’t make any difference in the pull. I doubt I have anything to fix. The park brakes are very effective.
 
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I doubt I have anything to fix.

If you never use it, I would agree. :lol:

My latest head scratcher.

The mixture cable is a Bowden Cable style, with inner piano wire driving the mixture control arm.

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I can rig it so as to get full rich, but only 2/3 of the way back to lean. And hence I'm using the key to switch off at the moment.

Obviously the lug holding the end of the cable is not in a good position. The whole bloody mixture cable run is not in a good position.

But partly inspired by watching some YouTube, Avweb Paul Bertorelli video on his J3 carby heat cable, I'm wondering if I should be looking at a cable with a rod end.

Or is there an other bolt arrangement that can hold the piano wire, and also swivel ?

Does anyone remember how they have rigged their C180 mixture cable?

I will get down to an aerodrome about an hours flight away that houses 3 or 4 C180's in a few weeks. In the interim I'm scratching my head.

Cheers,
Texmex.
 

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You need to move the cable sheath all the way back to the clamp. And you are missing the swivel connection that fastens the end of the cable to the mixture arm (usually called a 'bug nut'). If you keep working the cable without the swivel, it will work harden the inner wire and eventually break.

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or fab a new little bracket that holds the cable clamp and moves it further back. You might need a 1/16" smaller stainless clamp to get a little tighter. Mine was on with a rubber adel clamp which would slip and give the same symptoms - couldn't get to idle cut-off.

Mine just broke on my 180 about a month and a half ago. Some previous man-tainer of my plane had installed a 9/64ths bolt - yes you read that right - on that cable clamp and it really gave me fits trying to get it off. It required a deep well 9/64ths socket.

Holee Shiite. Who does that? I guess it was the only one they had lying around.
 
Can someone post a close up picture of the parking brake cable attached to the master brake cylinder on the brake pedals? Mine is missing/inop, and I'd like to piece together the parts to make it work again, and the IPC picture really isn't that clear. What's it supposed to look like on a '55?
 
Like this? Mine’s a ‘75. I guess I can blow out the lint if you need a clearer shot of how the cable attaches to the bell crank.
 

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Can someone post a close up picture of the parking brake cable attached to the master brake cylinder on the brake pedals? Mine is missing/inop, and I'd like to piece together the parts to make it work again, and the IPC picture really isn't that clear. What's it supposed to look like on a '55?

I can send you a picture of the one I installed on mine, tomorrow. I wouldn’t install the early model PB. Go with the late model install. The early model system is hazardous to your health. Mine is a 1955.
 
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I can send you a picture of the one I installed on mine, tomorrow. I wouldn’t install the early model PB. Go with the late model install. The early model system is hazardous to your health. Mine is a 1955.

Same here- I deleted mine after looking at how the mechanism ties into the normal braking. It is a recipe for disaster on the early models


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Same here- I deleted mine after looking at how the mechanism ties into the normal braking. It is a recipe for disaster on the early models


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

I initially ignored the advice of some. That was a mistake. Luckily, my few random engagements all happened on grass. I had two on takeoff and one on landing. Been 5 years now with the late model system and never an issue.
 
Do I have to also install the late model pedals? I don’t see away to attach cables to the brake pedals on the early brakes - rounded style. Where did you guys source the parking brake bell crank assembly?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Do I have to also install the late model pedals? I don’t see away to attach cables to the brake pedals on the early brakes - rounded style. Where did you guys source the parking brake bell crank assembly?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

No, you can use original pedals. I got everything from Mack at Skywagon City in Canada.
 
Hello guys,

I was flying along last week and wishing to remain in the smooth air thought I'd get an airways clearance. But I had a comm failure. It tripped the circuit breaker. Used comm 2 and didn't have any luck and got pushed down in the bumps anyway. I've had more engine failures than raw, no hints comms failures.

Anyway I've got the man to fix it nearby. I just can't ring him as his parting words were make sure you tidy up the breaker labelling as shown below.

What's the best way to do that? I would like the sticker, or engraved plastic etc to be the same brown as the surrounds. What's the go to labelling company???

Thanks.


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Sign shop or trophy shop. Measure your switch and breaker center-to-centers and have a stick on placard made. It can be engraved phenolic or laser printed vinyl. Whatever floats your boat.
 

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They sell small electronic label makers these days, with multiple size & font lettering.
You pick the tape you want-- there are multiple widths & colors.
Clear tape with white letters is what I'd suggest.

IMHO your breaker labels are legal & get the job done.
But I do have to admit they aren't exactly show-winners.
 
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