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Thread: General C180 questions.

  1. #81
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texmex View Post
    Hi guys. I'm about to pull the engine out of my C180J. Along with the windows / windscreen. And dash. Where does it stop?.......
    Perhaps you'd like to give us your thoughts on this, 15 months or so later.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  2. #82
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    I'm mostly enjoying the project which is partly because I have good guys in their field to call upon. The Electrical guy is about a mile down the road and a great sheetmetal man twenty minutes away. I'm glad I don't have the stress of paying hangarage. If nothing happens for a month, there are no direct costs to me.

    Things are moving a little at the moment. The electrical work is 90 percent done. Hopefully painting of the dash and hat rack this weekend.

    A few things have slipped through the net such as a few little items not plated or ceramic coated. And I can't find the JPI fuel flow transducer despite the biggest hangar clean up and reorganisation. I'm taking this Virus lockdown to have a thorough stocktake of what needs doing.

    As always, the USD kills me and shipping from the States is ridiculous. But it will all come together eventually.

    What are those clamps called?
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  3. #83
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    I think the balance tube is clamped to a clamp that comes off the sump bolts. I see if I can get a pic tomorrow.

    I would like a pic of the alternative if you have one please Rob or Hotrod180.

  4. #84
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    I don't have a pic of mine, but here's a pic of the appropriate page in the Continental 470 IPC.
    Figure 52, on page 2-82.
    It clearly shows the bracket being integral to the induction balance tube.
    Part number 41 induction tube is applicable to 470-J, K, L, R, & S.

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    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  5. #85
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    Hi Guys.

    Favour to ask. Would someone in the 'lower 48' be able to receive a number of small parcels, and then combine and forward to me in Australia? I need some small items from McFarlane, JPI and eBay Aviation.

    My two normal pathways have ceased with the current world dramas.

    I would make shipping payment via a PayPal arrangement.

    Many thanks,
    Texmex.

  6. #86
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    I love the ceramic coated exhaust. I had a bigger diameter pipe welded onto the exhaust for number 2. So as the Carby heat shroud wouldn't rattle. Before it was a rattling good fit that almost wore a hole into a relatively new exhaust.

  7. #87
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    Well who else has had a hard six months? I've been stood down from work, home schooling a 15 year old who apparently knows everything, and literally keeping the home fires burning for a cold winter. So I've left the aircraft tinkering for a while, but now the sun is shinning, and it's time. (still no work and the crazy State I live in, Victoria, has one of the harshest lockdowns in the world)

    So back to some inane questions. My arm rest is rupturing from the inside. Too much flying the aircraft out of trim, resulting in too much elbow pressure.

    Now the foam used for the armrest would need to be the right density. And as for shaping it?

    Has anyone else rebuilt their armrest?

    Looking forward to 2021.
    Texmex.



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  8. #88

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    I've asked Randy at Carbon Concepts to make Cessna arm wrests. No joy. Carbon fiber would be a great material for them.

  9. #89
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    Hi Guys.

    Firstly, the friggen Virus. What a drama. I had 8 months unemployed (or at least unemployed from a job that allows a Cessna 180 rebuild) last year. I did drive a Case harvester which was fun and paid the kids school fees. I've had one month quiet this year already with a few more to come I suspect. In order to manage it, well the loss of income, I closed the hangar door and put on the apron. So this restoration is dragging out.

    But back to it. I pulled out the firewall blanket yesterday. Not too bad a job, but I'm not sure what to put back. Any ideas? War stories most welcome.


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    What's the grey electrical box, to the left (in the photo) of the voltage regulator?

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    Showing off a little progress made yesterday. Bushwheel Bill's mod, and a bulkhead doubler as per a SB, to go on still.

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    Cheers,
    Texmex.
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  10. #90
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    The gray electrical box on the firewall is a feed through capacitor. It's used as a noise filter on the original charging system. Leave it installed if you are using the original system and remove it if updating with another system.

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  11. #91

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    General C180 questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    The gray electrical box on the firewall is a feed through capacitor. It's used as a noise filter on the original charging system. Leave it installed if you are using the original system and remove it if updating with another system.

    Web
    What is “original” and what is “updated”? Generator vs alternator? I have that box too and always wondered if I really needed it. My plane originally came with a smaller alternator, but somewhere since was upgraded to 60A alternator....not via STC, but just using DOFF10300 as in IPC of later Cessna’s.

    Chris


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    Last edited by airChris; 03-21-2021 at 11:15 AM.

  12. #92
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    My 180 still has the 35A generator, but doesn't have this gray box.
    No noise issues.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  13. #93

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    Check out bushwagons east .com. He rebuilt a really sweet 180 and used 1/2 Selkirk foam for the firewall and did not wrap it back around the heat vent, much easier. I used the foam as one solid piece and the install was rather difficult on my 180 but looks good and is a superior product to fiberglass bat.

  14. #94

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    I did mine with 1/4 Selkirk Foam. I would use 1/4 next time it is a lot easier to work with. Any wire, control, or tube that can be pulled out of the firewall should be. Helps with install.
    DENNY

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by airChris View Post
    What is “original” and what is “updated”? Generator vs alternator? I have that box too and always wondered if I really needed it. My plane originally came with a smaller alternator, but somewhere since was upgraded to 60A alternator....not via STC, but just using DOFF10300 as in IPC of later Cessna’s.

    Chris


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    Any of the factory installed alternator systems used similar capacitor arrangements. Size of the alternator doesn't appear to change that.

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  16. #96

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    I replaced the old Ford alternator with a Plane Power alternator and regulator. Removed that filter. All is quiet.
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  17. #97
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    It shouldn't need to be said, but if you install a new system (ANY system other than the original manufacturer's) wire it as per the installation instructions. As Mudwagon points out, the Plane-Power system does not require any filters in the wiring. Leaving them in from the Cessna system may or may not effect the system operation.

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  18. #98
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    I left that capacitor in my MVP-50. Didn't think it would cause a problem. Easy to eliminate if it does. No problems.


    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    It shouldn't need to be said, but if you install a new system (ANY system other than the original manufacturer's) wire it as per the installation instructions. As Mudwagon points out, the Plane-Power system does not require any filters in the wiring. Leaving them in from the Cessna system may or may not effect the system operation.

    Web
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"

  19. #99

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    I understand the budget pinch. Pick your priorities carefully. Best wishes in the government created difficult times!
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  20. #100
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    Hi All. Does anyone have any idea what the goop Cessna used around the side windows is? Original 1974 original side windows.

    General purpose thinners wasn't that effective, and there's not much in the adhesion range that thinners doesn't remove.

  21. #101

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    Petrified contact cement. Everyone who strips it is confounded by it. Try enamel reducer. It worked better than anything else I tried. It was the best balance between solvent power and not evaporating too quickly.
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  22. #102
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    Hi guys. Would someone be able to email me the latest Cessna SID's papers? For a 1974 C180J, serial number 18052450.

    I have registered with Cessna but am told 'my registration will be processed'.

    I had someone here on the weekend who thinks the wings will have to come off for NDT. So I'm pacing like an expectant dad. The SID's documentation I have is about eight years old and no mention of having to remove the wings.

    If that's the case, I'll do a strip and repaint at the same time. Not such a daunting task as the only other real job I've ever had apart from flying aeroplanes, which many tell me is not a real job, is paint stripping and prepping aircraft. And with the wings off it'll wheel straight into the workshop.

    Thanks.

    dmex1@bigpond.com

  23. #103
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    Thanks stewartb.

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by texmex View Post
    ....I had someone here on the weekend who thinks the wings will have to come off for NDT. So I'm pacing like an expectant dad. The SID's documentation I have is about eight years old and no mention of having to remove the wings.....
    First time I've heard of anything like that.
    If there is some sort of documentation for such a requirement,
    please post it here.
    Thanks.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  25. #105
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    Here is a good tip for Skywagons! Door handles are Ford Falcon.Mac’s in western NY SELLS THE $274.00 handle for under $20.00. The part number is the same except Cessna put a -C after the #. The inside part are a slight mod but $20.00 instead of 505.00 from Cessna.
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  26. #106

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    Quote Originally Posted by algonquin View Post
    Here is a good tip for Skywagons! Door handles are Ford Falcon.Mac’s in western NY SELLS THE $274.00 handle for under $20.00. The part number is the same except Cessna put a -C after the #. The inside part are a slight mod but $20.00 instead of 505.00 from Cessna.
    If you get tired of replacing those door handles after they strip out (not to mention the safety issue they cause when your passenger reefs on the handle, strips it out and now can't exit the airplane) go root around a good junkyard and find a handle that fits the same spline yet attaches by a screw directly into the spline shaft (used on numerous 60's and 70's US auto's). Drill and tap your spline. You will never have to replace it, it's a way stronger connection between handle and latching mechanism, and it's easier to remove and install than the original. Not sure if that's a minor alteration. Owner produced part? Seems like "elementary means" to me.
    Last edited by bubb2; 04-16-2021 at 01:43 PM.
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