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General C180 questions.

There are places that list items from Lord Manufacturing. If you can find your part number in one of these listings, you'll get charged for a non aviation part. They are real parts with the Lord number molded in and are indistinguishable from sources like Cessna.

Web

I searched some too... no luck, probably made by LORD FOR Cessna....??? $100 of liquid & you can make 30 of them... not that you need to make that many.... use one to make your silicone mold, after that pull the metal guts out of old ones and cast new ones.... simple, fun, and another tool in your knowledge base..... just have to measure the rubber hardness of original(Durometer)
 
Fine Wire plugs are an obvious way to go as far as spark plugs. I have only ran slick Mags and don't change them very often... usually once maybe twice we change a left mag on an IO-540 in the 2400 hours we run them. I bought a Factory New O470-R it came with Slicks. I am going to switch to fine wire plugs at 500 hundred hours but wouldn't think twice about switching to Bendix mags, just because they are easier to rebuild.... it sucks to have to rebuild any mags but its part of owning an airplane you fly enough you will have an issue with a magneto at some point. If my engine came with Bendix Mags I wouldn't switch them out either.... so run iridium spark plugs and overhaul your mags with the motor who cares what brand they are.
 
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You should make a video for all of us!

I searched some too... no luck, probably made by LORD FOR Cessna....??? $100 of liquid & you can make 30 of them... not that you need to make that many.... use one to make your silicone mold, after that pull the metal guts out of old ones and cast new ones.... simple, fun, and another tool in your knowledge base..... just have to measure the rubber hardness of original(Durometer)
 
Try looking at the auto stores/bearing shops for the rubber bushing
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...hing/dorman-alternator-bushing/680040_70333_0
DENNY

That used to work back in the day--
the grizzled old counter man would take a look at your bushing / bracket / handle / whatever,
mutter "yeah we got some of those back here somewhere",
disappear for a while in the back, then emerge with the part you need.
"Seven ninety nine", pay and away you go.
Nowadays, if you don't have a p/n or automobile make & model info they can punch into the computer,
you're **** outa luck.
I miss the old days.
 
I got the bushes of Web. Thanks Web.


IMG_4696.JPG

Does anyone have a source for this plastic tubing and what I would call 'compression olives' that Cessna used for the static instrument system. I think it's great stuff, just old and brittle after 45 years.

And how about the 'ONE EIGHTY' badge in the centre of the control column. I'm painting the control wheels and bits and pieces.

Many thanks,
Texmex.

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https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/271nnylo.php

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nyloseal.php








I got the bushes of Web. Thanks Web.


View attachment 42268

Does anyone have a source for this plastic tubing and what I would call 'compression olives' that Cessna used for the static instrument system. I think it's great stuff, just old and brittle after 45 years.

And how about the 'ONE EIGHTY' badge in the centre of the control column. I'm painting the control wheels and bits and pieces.

Many thanks,
Texmex.

View attachment 42269
 
There’s a guy named Guy Ginbey who’ll make a silicone duplicate of any rubber part you send him. Great stuff at a great price. Google Gee Bee Aeroproducts. He doesn’t have a website, but sells through links on CSOBeech.com. Or you could join Beechtalk and PM him there.

No connection. Just a customer.
 
Do you mean a silicone mold?

There’s a guy named Guy Ginbey who’ll make a silicone duplicate of any rubber part you send him. Great stuff at a great price. Google Gee Bee Aeroproducts. He doesn’t have a website, but sells through links on CSOBeech.com. Or you could join Beechtalk and PM him there.

No connection. Just a customer.
 
No, he makes parts of silicone rubber, if I understand correctly. I bought gas cap gaskets from him. They were blue, rubbery, and perfect.
 
Thanks. I've bought a number of scat type hoses off Guy Ginbey on a Bonanza reno project before. Fantastic gear and Guy's very passionate about his gear. (you do have to push through the cryptic message pain sometimes, but well worth it)

Thanks Eddie. I had looked at A/S site but hadn't had your success.

On another note bloody aeroplanes consume a lot of money. :sad:

A few weeks ago I ask a guy I know to look at the gyro driven AH and DG. Got them back with $2800 worth of work and bearings/gimbals. I guess not bad considering they're 45 years old.

I had my engine mount blasted, and anywhere it's close to the exhaust, it's badly pitted. So it'll be off to the welder I guess.

The moto of one of the many schools I went to was 'onwards and upwards'.
 
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Fine Wire plugs are an obvious way to go as far as spark plugs. I have only ran slick Mags and don't change them very often... usually once maybe twice we change a left mag on an IO-540 in the 2400 hours we run them. I bought a Factory New O470-R it came with Slicks. I am going to switch to fine wire plugs at 500 hundred hours but wouldn't think twice about switching to Bendix mags, just because they are easier to rebuild.... it sucks to have to rebuild any mags but its part of owning an airplane you fly enough you will have an issue with a magneto at some point. If my engine came with Bendix Mags I wouldn't switch them out either.... so run iridium spark plugs and overhaul your mags with the motor who cares what brand they are.

What ever you decide to run just make sure they are Tempest and not Champion.
 
Looking to buy real nice Cessna 180. Everything looks good except some minor corrosion on bottom of upper wing skins. Minor that you can see some discoloration but can't feel it. Looks to have been treated. Moving it to Southern Idaho from Seattle area. Living where I do corrosion is usually not a problem. I know it won't heal but would I expect it to get worse in this dry area?

Don
 
No


Looking to buy real nice Cessna 180. Everything looks good except some minor corrosion on bottom of upper wing skins. Minor that you can see some discoloration but can't feel it. Looks to have been treated. Moving it to Southern Idaho from Seattle area. Living where I do corrosion is usually not a problem. I know it won't heal but would I expect it to get worse in this dry area?

Don
 
What do the insides of the wings and every else look like, does it have the seal plane kit with treated insides? My bird had some minor belly corrosion from a past life on floats that was treated and spot painted and if all else is good I wouldn't be that worried.
 
Hello All.

My C180 tidy up is continuing. Engine is back and looks flash. Windows are out.

The Nuffties who put on the Tanalian tailplane leading edge did so and then painted it. So there was corrosion between the leading edge and tailplane. Off it comes for a full strip and repaint. Tail is off and hockey stick STC mod is done.

New titanium saddle and tail gear spring from 'The Landing Gear Works'. Plus an upgrade to 10" tailwheel fork.

One new aileron hinge and all new control cables. I mention this as I installed it only a few weeks ago, and now McFarlane tell me that particular aileron hinge has a service bulletin out on it.

But progress is slow, as I work full time and raise a family.

So the pressing question I have now is, would someone be able to send some photo's of the dash eight fuel line coming from the firewall, passing through a JPI transducer into the carburettor? The line is short. Reading the blurb on the JPI side they say there should be six inches of line either side of the transducer. JPI answer emails promptly, but strangely don't have any photos to show of their FS450 fuel flow gauge set up.

This is for a normally aspirated O-470 in a Cessna 180.

Many thanks,
Texmex.

Photo's to come when I'm off the kids super slow desktop and on my new laptop in 6 weeks.
 
Not sure if pics will help much. It's just a couple of hoses connected to a block of aluminum.

Use 'Mounting procedure 700923' in the install manual. It's easiest if you can fabricate your own hoses as you'll want to keep them as short as possible and it will be easier to figure lengths as you assemble them. Two rules for their transducers to keep in mind: the wires always need to point up and the the transducer needs to be lower than the carb inlet. If you cannot keep the transducer below the carb inlet, you'll need to put a 'hump' up in the line from the transducer to the carb. Either of these steps will help keep air bubbles out of the transducer. JPI wants at least two inches of straight leading to the inlet of the transducer. This means no 45* or 90* fittings on the inlet, straight fittings only. Other manufacturers recommend straight only on inlet and outlet so keep that in mind when making the hoses.

When I install these, I try to keep the hose from the gascolator to the transducer as short as possible. Then figure out how much hose is needed to route from the transducer to the carb inlet. Cover the transducer with fire sleeve and secure it with metal bands. I like something removable 'just in case'. If you need to, use some adel clamps to secure the assembly to the engine mount. Just be aware of the movement of the engine in the lord mounts; there needs to be some flex in the hose or engine movements will wear the hose/fittings. And make sure the fittings installed into the transducer are steel not aluminum.

Web
 
The only pic I took was to document the factory K factor, which was way off from where it is on my airplane.

IMG_0143.jpg

A bit of advice about the FS-450. Get in the habit of noting your total fuel quantity before you add more because I promise you you'll occasionally hit the buttons out of sequence and it'll indicate full tanks. I usually add 10-20 gallons and rarely fill mine. I can't count how many times I've hit those damn buttons wrong. Deleting fuel is a pain, especially from 75 gallons down to 25-30 gallons. Great instrument but now days I review the instructions every time before I touch the add fuel function! The good news is I can calibrate my FS with my fuel dip stick. My dip stick is still my best fuel gauge.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 

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Ran the new teflon hose to the left side for a better fit:

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….. My dip stick is still my best fuel gauge.

I dip my tanks after every fill-up, write down the tach time & fuel on board on a piece of blue tape & stick it on the panel.
I can predict within a gallon where my fuel level is after a flight.
Never saw the need for a fuel totalizer.
And other than setting up fuel injectors or similar,
never saw the need for a fuel flow gauge either.
 
I diagnosed a subtle carb issue with my FS-450. That alone made it a good addition. These days I lean by it. Simple and quick. I trust it more than my digital fuel gauges.
 
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