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General C180 questions.

The gray electrical box on the firewall is a feed through capacitor. It's used as a noise filter on the original charging system. Leave it installed if you are using the original system and remove it if updating with another system.

Web

What is “original” and what is “updated”? Generator vs alternator? I have that box too and always wondered if I really needed it. My plane originally came with a smaller alternator, but somewhere since was upgraded to 60A alternator....not via STC, but just using DOFF10300 as in IPC of later Cessna’s.

Chris


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Check out bushwagons east .com. He rebuilt a really sweet 180 and used 1/2 Selkirk foam for the firewall and did not wrap it back around the heat vent, much easier. I used the foam as one solid piece and the install was rather difficult on my 180 but looks good and is a superior product to fiberglass bat.
 
I did mine with 1/4 Selkirk Foam. I would use 1/4 next time it is a lot easier to work with. Any wire, control, or tube that can be pulled out of the firewall should be. Helps with install.
DENNY
 
What is “original” and what is “updated”? Generator vs alternator? I have that box too and always wondered if I really needed it. My plane originally came with a smaller alternator, but somewhere since was upgraded to 60A alternator....not via STC, but just using DOFF10300 as in IPC of later Cessna’s.

Chris


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Any of the factory installed alternator systems used similar capacitor arrangements. Size of the alternator doesn't appear to change that.

Web
 
I replaced the old Ford alternator with a Plane Power alternator and regulator. Removed that filter. All is quiet.
 
It shouldn't need to be said, but if you install a new system (ANY system other than the original manufacturer's) wire it as per the installation instructions. As Mudwagon points out, the Plane-Power system does not require any filters in the wiring. Leaving them in from the Cessna system may or may not effect the system operation.

Web
 
I left that capacitor in my MVP-50. Didn't think it would cause a problem. Easy to eliminate if it does. No problems.


It shouldn't need to be said, but if you install a new system (ANY system other than the original manufacturer's) wire it as per the installation instructions. As Mudwagon points out, the Plane-Power system does not require any filters in the wiring. Leaving them in from the Cessna system may or may not effect the system operation.

Web
 
I understand the budget pinch. Pick your priorities carefully. Best wishes in the government created difficult times!
 
Hi All. Does anyone have any idea what the goop Cessna used around the side windows is? Original 1974 original side windows.

General purpose thinners wasn't that effective, and there's not much in the adhesion range that thinners doesn't remove.
 
Petrified contact cement. Everyone who strips it is confounded by it. Try enamel reducer. It worked better than anything else I tried. It was the best balance between solvent power and not evaporating too quickly.
 
Hi guys. Would someone be able to email me the latest Cessna SID's papers? For a 1974 C180J, serial number 18052450.

I have registered with Cessna but am told 'my registration will be processed'.

I had someone here on the weekend who thinks the wings will have to come off for NDT. So I'm pacing like an expectant dad. The SID's documentation I have is about eight years old and no mention of having to remove the wings.

If that's the case, I'll do a strip and repaint at the same time. Not such a daunting task as the only other real job I've ever had apart from flying aeroplanes, which many tell me is not a real job, is paint stripping and prepping aircraft. And with the wings off it'll wheel straight into the workshop.

Thanks.

dmex1@bigpond.com
 
....I had someone here on the weekend who thinks the wings will have to come off for NDT. So I'm pacing like an expectant dad. The SID's documentation I have is about eight years old and no mention of having to remove the wings.....

First time I've heard of anything like that.
If there is some sort of documentation for such a requirement,
please post it here.
Thanks.
 
Here is a good tip for Skywagons! Door handles are Ford Falcon.Mac’s in western NY SELLS THE $274.00 handle for under $20.00. The part number is the same except Cessna put a -C after the #. The inside part are a slight mod but $20.00 instead of 505.00 from Cessna.
 
Here is a good tip for Skywagons! Door handles are Ford Falcon.Mac’s in western NY SELLS THE $274.00 handle for under $20.00. The part number is the same except Cessna put a -C after the #. The inside part are a slight mod but $20.00 instead of 505.00 from Cessna.
If you get tired of replacing those door handles after they strip out (not to mention the safety issue they cause when your passenger reefs on the handle, strips it out and now can't exit the airplane) go root around a good junkyard and find a handle that fits the same spline yet attaches by a screw directly into the spline shaft (used on numerous 60's and 70's US auto's). Drill and tap your spline. You will never have to replace it, it's a way stronger connection between handle and latching mechanism, and it's easier to remove and install than the original. Not sure if that's a minor alteration. Owner produced part? Seems like "elementary means" to me.
 
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The wings off thing is to do with SID's but my aircraft is ok, and that's not required. I don't think you guys do SID's unless the aircraft is working commercially. Is that correct?

It's the same reason I don't see this Cessna Service Kit discussed when the tail AD is being debated.

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A new titanium saddle.

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A bit of skin off the knuckles. But now I have a new firewall blanket.


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This is the door latch on the door frame and item 22 is an abrasive wear washer made out of I don't know what. But Cessna have no record of it and don't sell it. I think it's to cushion the striker plate and stop it sliding around. Has anyone else made some or have an idea of what to make them out of? The ones coming off must of worked because they certainly were worn.

Also I seem to recall Cessna's with a stainless plate where the door latch smashes into the fuse if the door latch is out of sequence and locked but the door is still open. Where would I get one of those?

My list of dumb questions is whittling down. Thankfully.

Oh how I wish Cessna made several more thousand C180/185's and parts were as common as a 100 year old Model A.
 

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All my plane has is that strike plate shown in your diagram. I’ve seen planes with a little stainless angle applied as a dent guard for the latch but I don’t have it so I have a little worn groove in the skin from the latch not being fully retracted. It adds authenticity. ;)

I think that washer is a fancy description of a shim to set the strike plate position. My strike appears to be snug to the door post. I doubt there’s a washer behind it. I painted the strike when I did my interior 11 years ago and it shows zero wear so I’m not changing anything.
 
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Does anyone have any idea what size nut goes onto this CHT probe? It's the original Stewart Warner prob, however it's missing after the engine rebuild.
 

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Hello all.

I've a question on light rings shown below on the pilot panel. For the co-pilot panel, I'm using red light rings. (3" ones on the RPM and MAP and a 2" one on the EGT)

The 2" ring I have here for the EGT is white light. Does anyone know if I can change globes in the ring to different colours later, ie from white to red? I would like to have the panel all wired up and not be waiting.

Many thanks,
Denis.

Answer to post above I believe is dash two hardware from a hobby co. At the moment it's held on with a metal locknut I found in scrapes.


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If these are 'NuLites' they have no customer serviceable parts. If you want to change light colors, you'll need to change the light ring.

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Coming along.

Does anyone know how to get some of the blanks where the white switches were once, above the circuit breakers?

It took a little creativity to get a PTT button on the control column.

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This is from a 206 book but they should be interchageable.

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I've just had a look at my thread and timeline of the project. Yes it's been a long trot. But who would have predicted that I'd be locked down for eight months last year, unable to go to a shop and buy a carton of milk. Everything became too hard.

Anyway, I should be flying this week. Well last week, but the bloody virus that Australians have been cowering from for two years, arrived on my doorstep. Anyway, WGN should fly in the next few days.

I made reference to the PTT in the pilots control column, so I thought I'd post these pics.


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I had the side milled, put in some aluminium tube and then gooped it up with an aviation two pack epoxy for sheet metal. It went rock hard, sanded ok, then I sprayed high build, and painted.

I'll have some finished pics the next few days.

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Also I seem to recall Cessna's with a stainless plate where the door latch smashes into the fuse if the door latch is out of sequence and locked but the door is still open. Where would I get one of those?

Lake and Air - You'll need to call them. They are not on the website. I think they called them "striker plates" or "Door Guards". Last time I saw them they were in the basement on the shelf.
 
Well it flew, and flew beautifully yesterday. What a great feeling.

Lots of little things to sort but they seem minor now it's flying.

I love the contrast of these two photos.

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After. (I had a bit of lifting yesterday pulling the tap off the door sill which was disappointing. Now to sort those plastic door arm rests)

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