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Thread: Scratch built axels

  1. #1

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    Scratch built axels

    So I’m working things out for my 3”extended gear. I have looked over the drawings on the pa-18 and wag’s gear and a couple of questions popped up. If the cub gear is similar... why are the brake mounts round and then square later in production. Is there any reason to use the brackets welded to the top of the gear leg then finger strap or would a 9/16 bushing welded and strapped-similar to the way the cabane is built suffice. And finally how the he** does one flatten the tabs on the axel and not end up like my test parts. See photos. Wag style square are on top and in-sleeved piper are on the bottom. The crease on the “piper” is what I’m concerned about-or should I be?? Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

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    The OD of the round plate for mounting the brake backing plate is important If it is too large some of the brake systems will not fit properly.
    DENNY

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    The OD of the round plate for mounting the brake backing plate is important If it is too large some of the brake systems will not fit properly.
    DENNY
    Made them to pipers specs. Still need to cut out the notch and machine to final thickness after it is all welded up. Made on my harbour freight lathe 7x10Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4

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    What position are you planning on mounting your calipers?
    DENNY

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    Open to options at this point. Was thinking as per piper’s specs- unless there is a better way


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    I am not sure what piper had (every plane up here seems different). Things to think about are what size brakes (double or single puck, 11/4or 11/2 axle ), straight, wheel or hydraulic skis, covered or uncovered gear legs. Sometimes you won't know until you get it all set up just how the brake will fit. For cleveland double puck I would recommend a 10 or 2 o'clock position with the nipple down and a 45 degree fitting out the top of the caliper. However this may not fit some applications.
    DENNY
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  7. #7

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    Still seeking advice on the axel in the photos. I’m going with 1-1/4 diameter as there are a lot of options for wheel and brakes and skis


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  8. #8
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    I'm no expert, but I just finished building axles from Wag Aero plans (1 1/2" diameter). I'm not clear on your question about the brackets at the top of the leg. I've attached a cropped photo of drawing 10033. Are you talking about the part number 30361 circled in the drawing?

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    If so, I think it is important to have. It looks to me that it strengthens the connection in compression. The u-shape stiffens the cross-section and the triangular "ears" beef up things below the bushing.

    As for flattening the axle ears, the Piper drawing suggests that some kind of round clamp was used leaving that roundish crease.

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    Attachment 40979

    The drawing for Wag axles I have, on the 2+2, have the axle sleeve inside a larger tube, end welded. It seems similar to the Piper drawing. I've studied other axle assemblies as best I could on the web, and there is a fair amount of variety. For what it is worth, the Univair heavy duty axles look like they have a similar crease as your Piper version.

    Regarding the brake plates, I built my first set just like the square ones shown in Wag and Piper plans. Turns out they were too small in diameter for the Grove brakes I bought at a very good price. It was simple enough to make another set with sufficient diameter. Yours look good to me for the majority of brakes one would use on an 1 1/4 axle.

    BTW, I have a 7X10 lathe too, except I converted it to a 7X16 with an extension from Little Machine Shop. I love that little thing!
    Last edited by RVBottomly; 01-17-2019 at 10:31 AM.
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  9. #9
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Beaverpilot;737300] Is there any reason to use the brackets welded to the top of the gear leg then finger strap or would a 9/16 bushing welded and strapped-similar to the way the cabane is built suffice.[. /QUOTE]

    The top of the gear legs have a heavy triangle with a thick bushing welded into it. It is conciderably thicker than the tubing as are the gussets. I would go wi tried and true concidering the consequences.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVBottomly View Post
    I'm no expert, but I just finished building axles from Wag Aero plans (1 1/2" diameter). I'm not clear on your question about the brackets at the top of the leg. I've attached a cropped photo of drawing 10033. Are you talking about the part number 30361 circled in the drawing?

    Attachment 40978
    If so, I think it is important to have. It looks to me that it strengthens the connection in compression. The u-shape stiffens the cross-section and the triangular "ears" beef up things below the bushing.

    As for flattening the axle ears, the Piper drawing suggests that some kind of round clamp was used leaving that roundish crease.

    Attachment 40979

    The drawing for Wag axles I have, on the 2+2, have the axle sleeve inside a larger tube, end welded. It seems similar to the Piper drawing. I've studied other axle assemblies as best I could on the web, and there is a fair amount of variety. For what it is worth, the Univair heavy duty axles look like they have a similar crease as your Piper version.

    Regarding the brake plates, I built my first set just like the square ones shown in Wag and Piper plans. Turns out they were too small in diameter for the Grove brakes I bought at a very good price. It was simple enough to make another set with sufficient diameter. Yours look good to me for the majority of brakes one would use on an 1 1/4 axle.

    BTW, I have a 7X10 lathe too, except I converted it to a 7X16 with an extension from Little Machine Shop. I love that little thing!
    Your attachments do not show up??


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  11. #11

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    [QUOTE=Steve Pierce;737360]
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaverpilot View Post
    Is there any reason to use the brackets welded to the top of the gear leg then finger strap or would a 9/16 bushing welded and strapped-similar to the way the cabane is built suffice.[. /QUOTE]

    The top of the gear legs have a heavy triangle with a thick bushing welded into it. It is conciderably thicker than the tubing as are the gussets. I would go wi tried and true concidering the consequences.
    I totally see your point on the brackets however , the wag plans show a different method than pipers. Since the cub gear is the same as stock pa-18 gear (according to my research on this site) I was thinking to go with wags way as it is easier for me to fabricate.
    I would like to build them like the AK with the squared end. But I cannot find a way to make the square end consistently. Any ideas?


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  12. #12

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    The plans I’m talking about are are on RvBottomly’s thread post 159??
    I tried to attach here but somethings not letting me


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  13. #13
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    That's strange. They worked on my computer last night.

    I'll try again after breakfast....

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  14. #14
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaverpilot View Post
    Your attachments do not show up??


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    I went back and edited that post with another try at uploading.

    Vic
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  15. #15

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    The photos work now! So my axels are being built to the plans. My issue for them is the crease and if this is going to be an issue down the road. I would like to have things worked out before I start machining and welding for real.


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