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Thread: O-320 Exhaust.. what is it?

  1. #1

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    O-320 Exhaust.. what is it?

    New to me BCSC...

    No idea what this exhaust is. I do know that the heat is marginal, and it's dang LOUD.

    A little help with the ID???

    Thanks
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  2. #2
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    vetterman?

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    and it probably gives another 50-100rpm more than others. always a trade off.

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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Looking at the images on the vetterman web page... it appears their shrouds are on the exhaust on the 45degree down pipe, right before the exit.

    This one is not like that. The shrouds are in the nose, on the pipes that cross over from side to side.

    JP

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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Reminds me of a Cherokee exhaust. Lots of extra welds there, maybe someone modified it?

    Web
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  7. #7

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    Heat robbers on the crossovers but no shrouds on the mufflers? Do you have adequate cabin heat for cold weather? My own Vetterman exhaust has shrouds on the mufflers, makes plenty of heat, and isn’t loud.

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    That’s not a Vetterman exhaust—-guessing its a custom aircraft system from what I can see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Heat robbers on the crossovers but no shrouds on the mufflers? Do you have adequate cabin heat for cold weather? My own Vetterman exhaust has shrouds on the mufflers, makes plenty of heat, and isn’t loud.
    It's not that the heat isn't hot enough.. it's that I don't think I have quite enough volume of air.

    For now... I'm going to go with the 'get a better headset' plan. I have an old 9v Bose.. and I'm going to add an A20 to the mix. Still working a few intercom issues. According to Sigtronics.. I need to add a small 220ohm resistor to the line (volume of intercom gets about 30% better when I shut off the radio) .

    However... the volume knob on the Garmin 40 radio has no effect on the volume in the headset (of the aviation radio chatter)

    Little issues.. I'll get through them all.

    JP

  10. #10
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP11 View Post
    According to Sigtronics..

    JP
    As Adam would say on 'Mythbusters'; Well, THERE's your problem!

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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP11 View Post
    It's not that the heat isn't hot enough.. it's that I don't think I have quite enough volume of air.

    For now... I'm going to go with the 'get a better headset' plan. I have an old 9v Bose.. and I'm going to add an A20 to the mix. Still working a few intercom issues. According to Sigtronics.. I need to add a small 220ohm resistor to the line (volume of intercom gets about 30% better when I shut off the radio) .

    However... the volume knob on the Garmin 40 radio has no effect on the volume in the headset (of the aviation radio chatter)

    Little issues.. I'll get through them all.

    JP
    Sigtronics have a problem with impedance matching to the other equipment it's connected to. Adding the resistor is just a bandaid fix. If it works at all. The permanent fix is to install an intercom system that uses a separate amplifier at each station instead of one amp for all, like the Sig.

    If the radio is an SL-40 (?), Then the programing needs to be set. Go into programing mode and find 'Headphone Level'. If you want to be able to adjust the volume with the knob, you need to set the headphone level to '0'. Any other setting will lock the volume to that level.

    Web
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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP11 View Post
    It's not that the heat isn't hot enough.. it's that I don't think I have quite enough volume of air.


    JP
    put a larger air inlet in cowl/ or larger scoop

    post picture of cowl & inlet

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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    Sigtronics have a problem with impedance matching to the other equipment it's connected to. Adding the resistor is just a bandaid fix. If it works at all. The permanent fix is to install an intercom system that uses a separate amplifier at each station instead of one amp for all, like the Sig.

    If the radio is an SL-40 (?), Then the programing needs to be set. Go into programing mode and find 'Headphone Level'. If you want to be able to adjust the volume with the knob, you need to set the headphone level to '0'. Any other setting will lock the volume to that level.

    Web
    AHA! I didn't catch that in the book. I tried other settings, but not zero.

    Thanks.

    Since good communications is a big part of giving a ride (especially with the kids I take) then I will likely swap it out.

    JP

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    put a larger air inlet in cowl/ or larger scoop

    post picture of cowl & inlet
    Don't have one. I'd like to get by airport and check my tailwheel (put air in it after it went flat) before I head to work in the morning.

    I'll snap a pic if I do.

    Thanks.

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    Here is the intake for cabin heat.

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    Back to the headset:

    We have found that Bose is not all that great in high noise environments. Down here, it is against the law to close a Cub door, and the biplanes have a huge noise problem.

    And, us older types can't hear anyway.

    One of my buddies was going to sell his beautiful Waco. Said he had tried everything - thousand dollar headsets, etc. I suggested a David Clark H10-13.4 with an Oregon Aero muff, and he is keeping the Waco - now he can hear the tower.

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    H10-13HXL
    Helicopter headset is primo for the DC over-the-ear models. Deep cups with the gel muff. Tough as a tank, works fine, lasts long time, great warranty.

  18. #18
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randyk View Post
    H10-13HXL
    Helicopter headset is primo for the DC over-the-ear models. Deep cups with the gel muff. Tough as a tank, works fine, lasts long time, great warranty.
    I agree about DC headsets being great, but a 'helicopter model' is the same as the others except for the plug. Things like gel ear seals or extra sound insulation are available for all of the C models.

    Web
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  19. #19

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    I have two small firewall 'bump outs' that are there to allow a bit more rudder travel. They are about 1" deep. They are completely uninsulated. I bought a couple small pieces of dynamat (i figured thin, but better than nothing) to put onto there.

    I bought a couple of the oregon aero mic muffs. I figured your right, the mic picking up cockpit noise certainly wasn't helping, and will get worse with the windows and door open.

    I do really like the bose (i have a very old one that I use for flying my 140, and towing gliders in the bird dog) . but I'm waffling on buying it, or a new DC head vise. I wish they would all get rated for passive and active attenuation. I think that the active stuff matters when it's a long day.. but for short flights in a noisy airplane... I think the high frequency stuff, not canceled out by the electronic may matter more.



    JP

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    Ok.. so, follow up.

    Carb heat, and cabin air scat tubes were reversed, so that sure wasn't helping my cabin heat issue.

    Best guess I've heard yet is an early model, or a copy of a Vetterman.

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    Anyone want to change their answer... or buy it?

    JP

  21. #21
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    Not a Vetterman, Larry posted above, must be a copy.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Not a Vetterman, Larry posted above, must be a copy.
    Mystery solved. It's now quieter. Down around 113db now. New intercom will help more.. but I can talk at full power now and be heard, couldn't before.
    Cabin heat works great
    Temps are about 50 degrees cooler on CHT.

    Seems this one was made by Aircraft Exhausts Inc

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