Layout Instrument panel for NQ

Steve Pierce said:

What browser are you using?

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Safari



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chuckwagon said:

Safari



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chuckwagon said:

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Thanks for the help Steve, I was able to figure it out on the mobile app. Still didn’t have either of two pages you posted though. I’ll have to do more looking.


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The mobile app is different. I just have an arrow to upload but I am on an Android.

Assuming you're logged in, at the bottom of any thread you'll see a quick reply window, or if you select reply from a particular post you get the same window. In the quick reply window look to the top right header and select the third symbol from the far right. That'll bring up the add photo function. Select from computer or URL. From computer when you click on select files you'll get a file page to choose where the picture you want resides. Locate it, select it, and click upload files.

If you are going from scratch I would try to get as much digital equipment as possible. I think they are more dependable, less weight and take up less space compared the old gyro's. When you build the panel make it easy to upgrade. Switches on drop out panel for easy access. I would not mount I-pad or Garmin 796 type GPS in the panel, do a surface mount and extend it above the panel as far as possible. This will save space and easy swap out if you upgrade. I have a center drop out access plate in the middle of my panel( 795 mount attached). If I need to reach the back of anything in the panel I can stick by arm in and reach it. Use instrument nuts on all gauges. The last raffle cub was built with nylocks behind all the gauges, making it a major pain to work on. I have seen aircraft builds delayed by 8-12 weeks waiting on custom laser cut panels and power coating. Mine was built in 12 hours and rattle can paint. No right or wrong just some stuff to think about.
DENNY

cub instrument panel

Hey everyone, in my restoration of my cub, inexperienced as I am and perfectionist to a fault, I've realized nothing isn't tameable. So far... I'm not good with electrics. I was going to hire a guy to do my instrument panel with given avionics, instruments, etc from the underseat battery all the way up to the wiring harness for the CGR-30P up in the engine compartment.
But now, things have slowed my progress so I'm thinking I'll have the time with the panel to do myself...What am I up against besides the tubes that you gotta build around? I'm thinking layout on cardboard template first, then clear plastic template, then the real deal...I don't know anything about laser cutting or plasma cutting or water jet?...thoughts anyone?

I built a couple panels in ag planes, building one in a Super Cub would be about the same I’m sure. Take your time, measure and check for fitment multiple times, and it’ll turn out to be a fairly simple job. I used foam board for the template, a bandsaw for the panel shape and holesaws for the instruments, final fitment was done by hand using a belt sander and grinder mainly. It’s a lot of fun getting everything exactly where you want it, I’d say go for it.

I am doing one now. I use a instrument panel punch and a Unibit. Nothing hard about cutting a simple Super Cub panel.

Couldn’t talk Bryan into a cgr?


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flywhatever said:

? I'm thinking layout on cardboard template first,

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I do paper to scale cutouts and move them around to get me close. Then tape them down. And cut it on mill and use punch if old round gauges.

Bought fancy software 16 years ago for panel layout. Was a waste of money as they didn’t even have cub stuff...



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mike mcs repair said:

I do paper to scale cutouts and move them around to get me close. Then tape them down. And cut it on mill and use punch if old round gauges.

Bought fancy software 16 years ago for panel layout. Was a waste of money as they didn’t even have cub stuff...



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You can do the entire panel, without a hitch, if you just plan it out. As Mr. Pierce said, unibit for the holes, panel punch for the instrument holes, and a nibbler & hand shears for any square holes.

Start out with a full size paper pattern if you like. I just skip that and use the uncut PA-18 specific panel (the original Piper number is my favorite for a short panel and Attlee's panel works best for a deeper panel). Use MCS Mike's full scale cutouts and tape them in place directly on the panel. And when we say 'full size' we mean the largest part of the instrument NOT just the round face. You'll need to account for the bezel around most instruments and gauges, that fits behind the panel. If you want to fit an item in a tight spot and don't want to spend the time making a fiberboard or plexiglass trial panel, fab a fake instrument out of tagboard, set the panel in place, then hold the fake instrument in place on the back of the panel. You can see if it will fit and if/where it needs to be moved. Another tip is to not be in to much of a hurry when planning. I tell people to put the paper or panel somewhere you'll see it several times a day. Every so often you'll move the cut outs. When you get to the point where you don't want to move anything, go ahead and cut the panel.

Lay the position of absolutely every item out on the panel with a fine tip felt marker BEFORE you cut or drill anything. Think about how to save every last bit of real estate; Look at using switch breakers instead of separate switch and breaker. Use smaller breakers such as Klixon. Most instruments will have a 2 1/4" version that can be used instead of the old style 3 1/8" (see Wings and Wheels website for Winters gauges). If you go with a unit such as the Electronics International CGR-30P you can get all engine gauges in a single unit. Trig and Becker radios mount in a 2 1/4" instrument hole instead of needing a 6 1/4" wide square cutout with a tray mount.

I agree 1000% with MCS Mike about the panel planning software. It might be ok if all you did was fabricate panels day in and day out, but not for a one off. I fab multiple panels a year and I'm completely disappointed in the programs I've seen. So don't waste your money.

Web

Thats is the way I did it, just finished ready for paint
and lettering.

I don't know if you any of these will help, but if you can view this link there's photos of how I laid out the construction paper, bent and shaped the panel in my 18-95.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/stoltimes/photos/?tab=album&album_id=214906182714382

pb