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Thread: Jury strut AN bolts, nuts and washers

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by dgapilot View Post
    When looking at the galvanic chart, cadmium is more anodic compared to steel, so the cad plating on normal AN bots becomes the sacrificial material. When comparing steel with all the nickel alloys, steel is anodic as compared to stainless, and is farther apart than cad/steel, so the corrosion the steel becomes the sacrificial material, and it corrodes faster than the cadmium would. I hope that makes sense.

    Best option would be not to scratch the cad plate on regular AN bolts, and coat with a protective coating to keep moisture out. If you use stainless hardware, without adequate protective coating, you will likely be replacing your jury struts and clamps before the bolts and nuts.


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    AN "stainless" isn't typical of other stainless alloys, is it? How does the AN alloy differ from standard stainless bolts with respect to galvanic corrosion?

    Typical mild steel jury strut parts are prone to corrosion based upon material and design regardless of bolts used to assemble. Treating the strut parts seems like a good practice.

  2. #42
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Just taking care of your existing hardware with coatings and maybe once per year disassembly to re-coat will likely do just as well as stainless. And, cheaper.

    MTV

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    AN "stainless" isn't typical of other stainless alloys, is it? How does the AN alloy differ from standard stainless bolts with respect to galvanic corrosion?

    Typical mild steel jury strut parts are prone to corrosion based upon material and design regardless of bolts used to assemble. Treating the strut parts seems like a good practice.
    Someone up thread said Stainless AN bolts are typically 431 which is a martinsitic stainless. It has iron in it, so it would be somewhat magnetic. In a passivated state, it would only have about 0.45v galvanic rating to mild steel. Unpassivated, it is about .25v.


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  4. #44

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    Ruh roh.... new words to look up!

    I appreciate the comments. I used stainless bolts. Most of the Cubs I know have the same. No discoloration on the bolts. No signs of galvanic damage. A little Corrosion X HD in the tubes will take care of internal rust for several years. It seems like the simple solution to me. I like solutions.

  5. #45
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    DGA is correct about carbon steel being sacrificial to stainless steel, however for that to really matter the junction has to be in an electrolyte. Similar to zinc adjacent to steel - if the junction is dry the zinc won't get used up. So it's essentially an non-issue at the jury struts.

    edit:
    https://galvanizeit.org/hot-dip-galv...similar-metals
    See chart and paragraph 4.
    Last edited by Gordon Misch; 11-28-2018 at 09:31 PM.
    Gordon

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  6. #46
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Ruh roh.... new words to look up!

    I appreciate the comments. I used stainless bolts. Most of the Cubs I know have the same. No discoloration on the bolts. No signs of galvanic damage. A little Corrosion X HD in the tubes will take care of internal rust for several years. It seems like the simple solution to me. I like solutions.
    Wouldn't regular AN hardwear and corrosion X HD last that long also?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  7. #47

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    An exposed jury strut bolt in rain and snow? No. That's why corrosion resistant bolts are available. Use them or don't. I don't care. I just shared what I do.

  8. #48

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    While understanding that stainless is more noble than mild steel, and having heard all my life to watch out for stainless in aluminum (or mild steel)... I've just never seen stainless hardware (structural or otherwise) be detrimental in terms of causing adjacent corrosion. Maybe it's because the stainless is more inert? I don't know, but it's not a factor in my experience. That said, I do like to use aluminum washers under most hardware, and let that be the sacrificial anode.. besides, they are lighter.. Again, if it's going to stay together a while, wet paint (your choice of what kind) is, in my opinion, the best assembly compound. But something like EDO float hatches? Stainless non-structural screws, aluminum thin washers, and a whole bunch of Fluid Film....
    Likes mike mcs repair liked this post

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