• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

This close to buying a 7AC... some questions post pre-buy

But the new philosophy, understandable of course, is to fix everything. I am often called to fix a dime size fabric hole, which, on my airplane, would be covered with a piece of plastic tape. It is getting more difficult, since paint matching is no longer easy. And everybody gets a cylinder pulled at annual now. If one could just do another compression check after four more flights, that piece of dirt might dislodge itself.

That is the modern world. Learn as much as you can about your airplane. Repack the wheels yourself - and learn about that often skipped wheel AD. Have the name of that oleo guy in your Rolodex. Learn simple fabric repair. Have the experts look at control cables, carb, and mags. And practice in crosswinds, every week.
 
….. And everybody gets a cylinder pulled at annual now. If one could just do another compression check after four more flights, that piece of dirt might dislodge itself......

Unfortunately, a lot of people (including some mechanics) don't seem to be aware of the new standard for Continental compression tests.
Here's a link to a good article by Mike Busch--
everyone who runs a Continental should read it, as well as the referenced TCM SB03-3.
As Busch points out,
a lot of cylinder R&R's could be avoided by following that SB's guidelines.

https://www.airframesalaska.com/v/vspfiles/pdf/TechTalk -Powerplant Compression.pdf
 
Thank you. I had not read the Busch article, and was unaware of some of his nuances, as well as the new technique for compression tests.

I might have mentioned this too many times: my engines get compression tests daily, or in the case of the Decathlon, weekly. I pull the prop through four blades, and expect even feel. When one goes soft, I watch it for a few weeks before pulling it. Others only get one test per year. Per year!

One memorable geared engine had a lousy set of readings out of a certified shop. Potential customer was standing next to me, and the owner asked me to re-do the test. Mind, my equipment has not been calibrated lately, but it is quality stuff.

I hooked it up and set the prop for each cylinder, and let the customer hold the valve and gauges. I did not inerfere. He got all above 70/80. All of them!
 
Mike Busch seems to think you can tell more about a cylinder by sticking a boroscope into it than by doing a compression test and I’m here to tell you that if you can see any visible indication of valve trouble with a boroscope your compression is gonna be ZERO. The old leak down test is far more valuable as a diagnostic tool than anything you might imagine you’ll see with a fancy scope.
 
Folks -- the day has finally come. The weather good, the plane paid for, and the hanger ready. My 1946 Aeronca Champ 7AC N82354 was delivered safe and sound!

With my first 100hrs in a 152, and my last 300 in my 172.. I have a lot to learn. This feels like starting from scratch and learning the right way!! I am nervous, but excited 8)

Thanks for following along and your encouragement along the way. It is great to be a part of the "club" in some way or another..

xz547j1.jpg


SaZCIFN.jpg


VREtFuR.jpg


NtLxhyr.jpg


BkH5l5B.jpg


fhmk1Is.jpg
 
Congrats! Great looking airplane and WHAT A CLEAN HANGAR! :lol:

sj
 
And the classic "mustard and ketchup" paint scheme to boot! I know you're going to enjoy it. Keep us informed about your adventures.

Thanks. cubscout
 
Mike Busch seems to think you can tell more about a cylinder by sticking a boroscope into it than by doing a compression test and I’m here to tell you that if you can see any visible indication of valve trouble with a boroscope your compression is gonna be ZERO. The old leak down test is far more valuable as a diagnostic tool than anything you might imagine you’ll see with a fancy scope.

I had a cylinder failure that was only detected by the borescope. Compression tested fine, but the borescope showed the piston was coming apart, and cylinder walls dot doing so well- so both tests have their place.

NOW, back to the champ: First- that hangar is far to clean, you need to jump onto the Calendar Campaign page and get yourself a membership to this group, (clubs are so exclusive), and get a 2019 calendar for your wall.

Second- I suggest you find your most worn out soft soul shoes to fly for a while. the better feel your feet have the quicker you will learn to fly it.

third- happy feet! Take the lady dancing and get your feet moving... happy feet for flying.:smile:

fourth- Check out the WAD Fly-in info for the WANTED posters of nearby outlaws... lots of guys up there to get you into more fun than you can imagine- and more than one Champ model joins the group often. :wink:

fifth- get yourself some sets of business cards to hand out to property owners when they ask who you are, one set should say Glenn G., the other Steve E. That might help you out in the long run:lol::lol:8)
 
See what happens when you get a cool airplane in the hangar ..? The ladies come check it out..!!
That and the package on the floor..
 
Where's that beautiful Champ based?

George

Thank you all for the wonderful comments!! She is a wonderful bird and I feel so lucky to have her. Finally I can stop ooohing and ahhhing all day on this website and start to join the fun with a piece of yellow fabric of my own..

I went for my first real flight in the Champ today and couldn't believe what it an experience it was. Not on the clock (renting..), nowhere to be, nobody to see, nothing to do but enjoy the pleasure of flight in a 1940's aircraft. I felt like I was in another era, the 1.2hrs spent buzzing around the Hudson Valley felt effortless (including 4 landings on the grass at NY1 Kline Kill). The Champ burnt a measly ~3.5 gallons. My Skyhawk ins't real thirsty either at ~8gph but this is a whole different ball game.

It was blowing about 12knts by the time we came in, but right down the runway. I felt like a dope taxiing. I have a hard time switching directions after a 180 degree turn, and end up turning it into a 360..or 540.. or maybe even a 720. I have to apply full opposite brake, some throttle, and then quickly ease off to center it out. I suppose just some things I will need to get more practice on! 1500ft in the Champ felt and looked like 3500ft in the Skyhawk. I have no clue why.. but now I know why you guys hang out so low!! :smile:

CVPZg54.jpg


cWD0pWL.jpg


fj5C1jO.jpg


fenVRsM.jpg


PS: the reiff preheater worked an absolute treat. I got up at 6am to plug her in, by 9:30 she was toasty!

Pics from my instructor in the rear seat (I was happy as a clam up front!!)

heWYxD8.jpg


Nx0o3tJ.jpg
 
Keep flying, keep shooting pictures. Maybe we can see you at the WAD next October.

When you want to turn, try stick forward to lift weight off the tail, it makes it easier, just remember that if solo the tail is already much lighter.

With practice you will learn when to go full opposite rudder in a turn to end at the correct heading, often once the tailwheel 'breaks' you can go opposite for a 180.
 
Keep flying, keep shooting pictures. Maybe we can see you at the WAD next October.

When you want to turn, try stick forward to lift weight off the tail, it makes it easier, just remember that if solo the tail is already much lighter.

With practice you will learn when to go full opposite rudder in a turn to end at the correct heading, often once the tailwheel 'breaks' you can go opposite for a 180.


I will do just that! Hope I don't bore you all with my beginners Q's and pics.. Thanks for the stick forward tip. I've been doing the opposite to keep some pressure on it and make it effective, or so I thought. Will give that a go today!
 
Ha! Don't worry about newbie questions, us oldsters just ask dumb ones:p

You want to be in the habit of keeping the stick in proper location for wind, (climb into the wind, dive away from the wind), but when you need to get the tailwheel to 'break', unloading the weight from it helps. Please do not accept this as an 'all the time' idea. If you get big winds you need to be careful not to allow wind under the tail where it will lift and. go on the nose.

Once on skis, you will find unloading the tail is the only way to turn.

On takeoff, I was always told Champs want the tail wheel off, but don't exaggerate it's elevation to wings level for the best performance. once you get the feel of it, try both ways where you can judge which works better.:wink:

One preflight item to add: grab each wing front and back by the tip and shake up and down. It will tell you quickly if you have a failed spar. (If the wood spar plane goes on it's back or you tag a wing tip you can cause a hairline crack). My advice on spars is to find a guy that really knows wood spars to do the inspection on them. Some times what appears to be a crack is just grain. A really good place to not scrimp on costs.

When you get comfortable with that plane, we have 900' of good strip now, stop in and give me a ride, identifier is 9AA9.:lol::wink:8)
 
Ha! Don't worry about newbie questions, us oldsters just ask dumb ones:p

You want to be in the habit of keeping the stick in proper location for wind, (climb into the wind, dive away from the wind), but when you need to get the tailwheel to 'break', unloading the weight from it helps. Please do not accept this as an 'all the time' idea. If you get big winds you need to be careful not to allow wind under the tail where it will lift and. go on the nose.

Once on skis, you will find unloading the tail is the only way to turn.

On takeoff, I was always told Champs want the tail wheel off, but don't exaggerate it's elevation to wings level for the best performance. once you get the feel of it, try both ways where you can judge which works better.:wink:

One preflight item to add: grab each wing front and back by the tip and shake up and down. It will tell you quickly if you have a failed spar. (If the wood spar plane goes on it's back or you tag a wing tip you can cause a hairline crack). My advice on spars is to find a guy that really knows wood spars to do the inspection on them. Some times what appears to be a crack is just grain. A really good place to not scrimp on costs.

When you get comfortable with that plane, we have 900' of good strip now, stop in and give me a ride, identifier is 9AA9.:lol::wink:8)

Hah! Thanks aktango -- I appreciate the tips! I went out for an unbelievable flight today, one of my favorites of all time. I was grinning ear to ear... we departed just after the fog lifted and boy were we in for a treat. Pictures are better than words..

hnr7Mah.jpg


MdhJNkY.jpg


ZsptKwS.jpg


BmAQftp.jpg


47bZqd2.jpg


We ended up making our way to Freehold 1I5. No maps, nothing in mind, just followed what looked right and somehow made it there.

6kGb5kd.jpg


It took me four tries but I finally made it stick on that 22ft gravel strip. First two were too high, third was looking good until a handful of dear wandered across the runway! Fourth worked just a treat. Taxii'd to the end and jet out the other side. What a day!

9AA9... maybe next weekend!! :cheers

1EPf20V.png


PS: I used a pillow to help move me closer to the controls. I think this helped a lot. The pillow measured 5.5" but compressed down to probably about 3". If anyone has anything in mind for something a bit more permanent let me know!

gAGR426.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top