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Thread: Cgr 30-p

  1. #1
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Cgr 30-p

    I'm looking for suggestions on how to configure the CGR 30-P for the Super Cub. It seems to have way more possibilities than needed for a simple fixed pitched gravity fed aircraft but I like that all the primary instruments are in one spot and simplifies panel layout. The configuration work sheet is a little confusing with conflicting wording regarding possible screen configuration. For those that have done it, any suggestions or things you would have changed?
    Main screen 5 primary functions based on POH in addition to RPM, CHT, EGT
    Secondary screen has 6 strip or digital gauges with one of them being a primary

  2. #2

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    I really like having the fuel flow on the primary screen, after awhile I got to where I quickly lean to a flow then fine tune with temps.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I am an EI dealer and have sold and installed several. They way I prefer to configure in the Super Cub is RPM ans Fuel Flow on the two top arcs, the CHT/EGT graphs are on the left and Oil Temp/Pressure and Volts and Amps. Second pageusually OAT, Flight Timer, Eng Time, Tach Time and Zulu time. I don't usually install the provided warning lights in the Super Cub panel since the gauge is right in your field of view already.
    Steve Pierce

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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    EI use to have Kirby's Super Cub panel on their website but I can't find it now. It was fired up with the Garmin 796 in place.
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    Steve Pierce

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    krines's Avatar
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    I second Steve Pierce. That is how mine is installed. No regrets

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    Is the CGR 30 an approved replacement for my current temp and RPM gauges in my certified PA-12?
    I just converted to an 0-320 and would like to have better temp info while adding panel space.
    Also does anyone here have an estimated cost of install?


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    Yes

  10. #10
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    It is approved to replace all engine instruments along with the amp meter, I would say 2-3 days to install.
    Steve Pierce

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I am an EI dealer and have sold and installed several. They way I prefer to configure in the Super Cub is RPM ans Fuel Flow on the two top arcs, the CHT/EGT graphs are on the left and Oil Temp/Pressure and Volts and Amps. Second pageusually OAT, Flight Timer, Eng Time, Tach Time and Zulu time. I don't usually install the provided warning lights in the Super Cub panel since the gauge is right in your field of view already.
    Hi Steve installing my first cgr30 is there a trick to not using the warning lights

  12. #12
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Just don't install them. I usually don't. Went back later and hooked one up at customer's request.
    Steve Pierce

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  13. #13
    skysigns's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Steve Pierce;783366]Just don't install them. I usually don't. Went back later and hooked one up at customer's request.[/QUOT
    Do u sill need to supply power to the lines

  14. #14
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    ? explain?

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  15. #15
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I popped the pins out of the back of the plug. You culd also tie the wires up behind the panel.
    Steve Pierce

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  16. #16
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    Steve, how steady should the fuel flow indication be? We just had a CGR 30-P installed. Initially it was installed with a 90 degree elbow on the outlet side and the flow would jump from 6.8 to 7.7 gph. I had them change to a straight outlet fitting and it has settled down to plus or minus .3 gph. Would that be considered normal?
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  17. #17
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    Fuel flow should be pretty steady at a steady RPM. This is with 45 degree fittings in and out of the transducer. You can upload your CGR-30 logfiles to flightdata.com if you want to mess around with charts like these to drill down into the data. Savvy has something like this too, also free last time I tried.

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  18. #18
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Mine jumped around when I got a bunch of water in my fuel system when our old airport manager did something stupid when he ran our tanks out of gas. I have used 45s and 90s without any issues. Make sure the transducer is below the carb inlet to get out any air.
    Steve Pierce

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  19. #19

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    What’s the weight penalty all in for a CGR-30? Would it be 6-8 lbs?

  20. #20
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    The fuel flow on my MVP-50 varies about plus or minus 0.3 under steady state.
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  21. #21
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    The instrument alone weighs 1.1 lbs. The data box is 1 lb. The weight of the wires depends on what systems you hook up and what is left off. I can't imagine wires and the fuel flow transducer would be much more than another 2 lbs.

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  22. #22

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    I’ve installed a couple now and would guess it’s a 6-7lbs install, you have lots of wires, egt probes, cht probes, transducer, brain box with mounting plate and clamps, instrument it’s self.

  23. #23
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    I weighed everything. Have to find my pictures.
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  24. #24
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PA-22/20-160 View Post
    Iíve installed a couple now and would guess itís a 6-7lbs install, you have lots of wires, egt probes, cht probes, transducer, brain box with mounting plate and clamps, instrument itís self.
    But whatís the weight of a tach, cable oil temp gauge and probes?


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  25. #25
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    A large part of each wire is cut off when routing and terminating. Some probes are used and some are not as the system is ordered as per the customer's wishes. I.e. manifold pressure on a constant speed prop/engine but not on a fixed pitch prop/engine. Some things like the new fuel lines and new oil pressure hose, are a trade in weight for the old ones. Very little change.

    Another way to look at the CGR system is that it has the same wires as each gauge has, just going to one box.

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  26. #26
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    What would happen on the back light control if you Whitham and org wire to ground and by passed a rheostat

  27. #27
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Your back lights would be dim. On the CGR-30P that potentiometer provides power to the back lights and the caution/warning lights.

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  28. #28
    G44's Avatar
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    Guys,

    I have a suggestion that may help you avoid trouble and frustration in the future with your EI unit. Take a few minutes and with a magnifying glass or what ever tool necessary check the connectors, pins and harness’s on new EI products (and anyone else’s for that matter). I spent thousands tracking down faulty crimps and poorly seated pins that were in the plug. Removal of the components from the airplane of what you can and further trouble shooting under the panel not being able to readily reach stuff is very difficult. Better to check this stuff on the bench. I love their products but their QC on my unit and some units of others I know have been a bit lacking. This is simple stuff and with a bit more attention detail it could have easily been prevented.

    Just a heads up.

    Kurt
    Last edited by G44; 12-16-2020 at 01:46 PM.
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  29. #29
    skysigns's Avatar
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    I had not planned on using the warning lights
    so not sure how to install dimmer
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  30. #30
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Doesn't matter if you use the warning and caution lights, the potentiometer installs the same way.

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    skysigns's Avatar
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    I guess I am not understanding on how to install that

  32. #32
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skysigns View Post
    I guess I am not understanding on how to install that
    This is out of section four of the instructions. Just don't connect the caution/warning lights.

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  33. #33
    skysigns's Avatar
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    I got that but was not wanting to use a dimmer pot is there a other way to install it

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by skysigns View Post
    I got that but was not wanting to use a dimmer pot is there a other way to install it
    You have to use the EI dimmer it doesnít work the same as standard dimmers. If Iím remembering correctly. Itís been Awhile. I donít think there is any internal way to dim the unit.


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  35. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves View Post
    You have to use the EI dimmer it doesn’t work the same as standard dimmers. If I’m remembering correctly. It’s been Awhile. I don’t think there is any internal way to dim the unit.


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    You are correct, but the real question is why don't they just include one...
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  36. #36
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    skysigns: If you don't want the dimmer, don't install the dimmer. If you don't want the warning lights, don't install the warning lights. It works fine without either and defaults to max brightness. What is your goal?

  37. #37
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skysigns View Post
    I got that but was not wanting to use a dimmer pot is there a other way to install it
    Check your programming instructions. I believe that you could connect the back lighting to the CGR breaker and then program the lights to the desired brightness.

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  38. #38
    skysigns's Avatar
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    Thank you for the info
    I will just leave the wires open

  39. #39
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves View Post
    You have to use the EI dimmer it doesn’t work the same as standard dimmers. If I’m remembering correctly. It’s been Awhile. I don’t think there is any internal way to dim the unit.


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    Not correct for back lights. All E.I. back lights get brighter with an increase in voltage, as with using the CP-1A potentiometer. The stand alone E.I. gauges use the CP-1 potentiometer to dim the LED indicators (but not red ones) and they go dim with increased voltage. I just make my own.

    The CGR has dimming programming instructions in section seven of the operations manual.

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  40. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post

    The CGR has dimming programming instructions in section seven of the operations manual.

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    Been there done that to the point of being ready to rip it out and send it back... their belief (the tech actually said this to me) is you need full bright at night because it's dark so I asked if he had ever flown at night... Even with their dimmer it has a very narrow range.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 12-15-2020 at 01:45 PM.
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