Fabric Iron
- Thread starter cgoldy
- Start date
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Put ‘swix’ into search box here. Might be what you were looking for
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Marty57
PATRON
Nipomo, Ca
Here's the iron we have in the Stewarts System catalog. It goes up to about 320 degrees, plenty hot enough. I've been pretty happy with it. Nice thing about not going up to and past 350 is there is room to shrink a little more with the small iron should a wrinkle or dent happen some time down the line.
Marty
http://www.stewartsystems.aero/products/490/toko-t14-iron
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I don't think I would like that. I want to reach 350 plus, sometimes you need a little more heat because the under lying metal is soaking up your heat.
Marty57
PATRON
Nipomo, Ca
There are a few reasons for the T14. First, the T18 is newer and wasn't available a couple years ago and is higher priced. Second is the reason for a ski wax iron vs a steam iron; temperature consistency. Ski wax irons are designed to heat a large, dense surface that can create a heat sink, steam irons are not built that way. Steam irons will drop in temp very quickly so you are not shrinking at 350 degrees if your iron is calibrated to that temp. I would prefer to hold at 320 degrees rather than shrink at what I think is 350 when it might be anywhere from 375 to 300 as the iron cycles. Looking at the T14 vs the T18, the T18 does go up to 356 degrees vs the 320 of the T14 but the T18 is only 800W vs the T14 at 1200W. I suspect the T18 with the lower wattage will not hold the heat as well on the steel surfaces as the larger 1200W T14; some one would need to do a side-by-side test of the two irons covering an aircraft. Not sure why the T18 is only 800W, seems low to me. Black and Decker's digital professional steam iron is 1500W but still designed for lighter heat sink vs a ski way iron. Bottom line is covering has been done successfully for years with all sorts of irons, we just have a lot more choices today. What ever you use, calibrate and verify your iron to prevent overtemp and ruining all the work you just put into the covering.
Marty
Having just bought a T14 and using it to cover a Citabria (my old Black and Decker bit the dust), I found it to be a time saver since I didn’t have to go over the surfaces multiple times . I wish it heated to a bit higher temp, but it is nice to know that a nice slow pass with the iron brings the fabric to the intended temperature instead of having to use the hit and miss technique of multiple passes with a widely fluctuating iron temp.
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Marty57
PATRON
Nipomo, Ca
I talked to TOKO today about the differences between the two irons; the T14 and T18 are significantly different in design as to how the heating element is embedded in the base. They are sending me a T18 and I'll test the two irons side-by-side. Here's how they described the T18:
"In the T18 Iron the heating element is completely melted into the aluminum plate, in this way there is a perfect and faster conduction of the heat! For this reason despite having 850W effectively this is a far more powerful iron. The microprocessor checks the temperature of the plate 20 times each second and can feel difference of less than 1 C° , at the same time it can understand how much heat is needed to keep the constant temperature of the plate. A sophisticated software is adapting the power to assure a really stable temperature while ironing. The T18 can maintain temperatures over 350F (our only iron that can).
The T14 is a high end economy iron the way that I would describe it. It has a digital readout (but analog thermostat)."
The main reason we have been listing the T14 is to offer an good iron at a reasonable price point to encourage builders to move away from home steam irons. That being said, I know many builders who have successfully used steam irons for many, many years with great success. Many of us, however, have heard of horror stories of irons that were thought to be calibrated and the iron burned through the fabric. The max temp of the T14 will prevent over temp situations and provide a good shrink for the fabric. The home steam iron I have is a good unit, but the temp range up and down is dramatic as it cycles. I would be leery of setting mine to 350 with the fear of it going significantly over and under that temp. A friend recently had his steam iron overtemp, after calibration, and burned through his wing.
We are often teaching covering to beginners and are trying to prevent unsatisfactory results. Shrinking to a 320 degree consistent temp with a T14 is far superior, in our opinion, to using a steam iron that has a wide range of temps at a given setting. For the experienced builder, not an issue. I think the T18 will prove to be a great iron. The T18 is significantly higher priced than the T14; if we can get the T18 iron at a good price we will offer it in our catalog. I'll post results after I do some side-by-side testing.
Marty
bob turner
Registered User
I have been using dirtbag irons for a half century without burn through, but may graduate. Lately it is repair jobs, using Steve Pierce's trick of heat sealing Poly Brush. That takes a lot of heat, but too much gives scallops.
New fabric - seems like if you keep moving all is ok, but I agree - students should have an iron that won't melt through.
Today the problem is a pesky area in the slipstream on the Stearman. I may have to just put a new tape on. It ain't sealing!
New fabric - seems like if you keep moving all is ok, but I agree - students should have an iron that won't melt through.
Today the problem is a pesky area in the slipstream on the Stearman. I may have to just put a new tape on. It ain't sealing!
cgoldy
Registered User
Moogerah Queensland Australia
What are you referring to Bob????
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I carry a digital infra red temp gun in my back pocket when ironing. You can hear the bi-metallic switch click when the thermostat kicks in and starts raising the heat. After time you can tell when the temp swings up or down. A major pain in the butt but it is manageable.
bob turner
Registered User
The "Steve Pierce" trick is probably well known. I have been having trouble with non-pinked tapes pulling up (not my work). Steve suggested getting some Poly Brush in there, then heat-sealing the tape when the "brush" is dry. I am having moderate success.
I use a piece of .020 aluminum, dipped in the "brush", then inserted in the void. The heat is fairly critical.
I use a piece of .020 aluminum, dipped in the "brush", then inserted in the void. The heat is fairly critical.
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Bump......
any new recommended irons come out since this thread was last updated?
and ones NOT TO BUY?
or is there another thread on this subject?
any new recommended irons come out since this thread was last updated?
and ones NOT TO BUY?
or is there another thread on this subject?
Buzzcola777
MEMBER
Montreal, Canada
Mike,
I've just bought this iron. It is an Holmenkol Racing Waxer made in Germany. The temperature is controlled by a microprocessor and the temperature can reach 356 degrees Farenheight. The plate is 15mm thick. I received it yesterday but I have not tried it yet
Dan
Attachments
txpacer
SPONSOR
Iowa Park, TX
Chris rib stitched a wing for Steve's dad and he bought her one of these irons. So far, she's done a wing and some control surfaces with it. She loves it, the point is especially useful for getting in corners. She hardly even looks at the T-18 I bought for her last year.
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
After talking to Chris about this iron it is next on my purchase list on my next cover job. It was designed for cover work with a smooth sole plate, no wax dimples and the nose. Heat control is dead on she says. She knows her stuff and if she likes it I know I will.
Bearhawk Builder
FRIEND
In the woods
I'm going in on one, although my 1940's GE is still going strong. Couple of covering jobs coming up.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I talked to the guy behind this iron before Sun & Fun. Was suppose to meet him there but unfortunately. Good videos on his website.
https://fabricprousa.com/
Corresponence I had with him.
What is the maximum temperature the iron will reach?
Hi Steve
The iron will reach 380f , it’s designed to hold 350f indefinitely
Ok, thanks. I sometimes need a little more heat over the metal so was curious. I just got a ski wax iron and it just gets to 350 and is flat all around. Like the foot shape of your iron. Will catch up to you at Sun & Fun.
Thanks again.
Steve
SteveI just checked one unit. The spec sheet says 356f and I actually ran a unit all the way up and it stops at 356F. The idea is to prevent inadvertent overheating the fabric but I understand your concern when the fabric is laid over metal. Jason P. told me that he used the FP iron over a metal leading edge and at 346F it worked fine.
I'm familiar with the Tobi ski wax iron, it's the same company makes mine. But I wanted to design a footplate that suits the fabric guys, The ski wax iron can't get into tight places and the dimples are for wax distribution not for fabric. Plus I wanted the readout in F not C and they made a few other minor changes for me. If you can return the ski wax iron and get a fabric pro you'll appreciate the new footplate design. Either way looking forward to meeting you at Sun N FUn.
Steve
https://fabricprousa.com/
Corresponence I had with him.
What is the maximum temperature the iron will reach?
Hi Steve
The iron will reach 380f , it’s designed to hold 350f indefinitely
Ok, thanks. I sometimes need a little more heat over the metal so was curious. I just got a ski wax iron and it just gets to 350 and is flat all around. Like the foot shape of your iron. Will catch up to you at Sun & Fun.
Thanks again.
Steve
SteveI just checked one unit. The spec sheet says 356f and I actually ran a unit all the way up and it stops at 356F. The idea is to prevent inadvertent overheating the fabric but I understand your concern when the fabric is laid over metal. Jason P. told me that he used the FP iron over a metal leading edge and at 346F it worked fine.
I'm familiar with the Tobi ski wax iron, it's the same company makes mine. But I wanted to design a footplate that suits the fabric guys, The ski wax iron can't get into tight places and the dimples are for wax distribution not for fabric. Plus I wanted the readout in F not C and they made a few other minor changes for me. If you can return the ski wax iron and get a fabric pro you'll appreciate the new footplate design. Either way looking forward to meeting you at Sun N FUn.
Steve
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
I always like to do the aluminum areas first, since it expands and grows... then when metal cools it leaves loose spots.... still a pain sometimes, even doing this...
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