Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 47

Thread: Low Volts Light staying on above 1100 RPM, initial troubleshooting done, expert input needed!!!

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like

    Low Volts Light staying on above 1100 RPM, initial troubleshooting done, expert input needed!!!

    On my last flight (before the schedule of planned remedial work I've been working to) I noticed the Low Volts warning light staying on in the climb.

    I tightened the generator belt and then ran on the ground, the low volts light flickered (rapidly) on/off above 1100

    I did the recommended generator troubleshooting I found on line and the generator was producing no output and in the course of this, I found the field tab connector was hanging on by a thread, so replaced the connector

    I cleaned the "points" in the Delco Remy Voltage Regulator with fine abrasive paper and then the low volts light remained solidly on above 1100 rpm

    The generator was then overhauled and reported as working fine on the bench.

    I refitted the generator and found the same problem with the low volts light staying on above 1100 rpm

    With master switch on I can measure battery voltage (to ground) to as far forward as the voltage regulator, but obviously not at the generator

    Due to the maintenance work and therefore being in the hangar, I haven't run the engine since the test above, but intend to do that this week and measure battery voltage from the ammeter to ground and see if the voltage does increase at rpm above 1100 and therefore point to a faulty low volts light, but other than that I'm thinking voltage regulator, maybe something to do with the field circuit, the thing about "flashing/polarising" the generator (although the generator shop said it wouldn't need this), or WHO KNOWS?!!!!!

    I'd really appreciate any thoughts/steers/troubleshooting steps on this please

    Thanks

    Philly
    Last edited by Philly5G; 07-03-2018 at 06:46 AM.

  2. #2
    behindpropellers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,725
    Post Thanks / Like
    HI Philly,

    You most likely need to flash the field.

    Tim
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G, mike mcs repair, gvgoff99 liked this post

  3. #3
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,947
    Post Thanks / Like
    Can't find the generator trouble shooting instructions on Zeftronics new website. Pretty easy to diagnose, will post the instructions when I get to the hanger. I would put a meter on the buss to start with.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
    Likes mike mcs repair liked this post

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by behindpropellers View Post
    HI Philly,

    You most likely need to flash the field.

    Tim
    Thanks Tim!! Is this the thing where I touch a lead from the battery +ve to the field tag?!

    I'd really appreciate a step by step action point list of how to do this if that's not too much of a hassle, but my basic questions are:

    How long do I hold the +ve lead on the field tab
    Do I need to disconnect cables and loosen off the drive belt first?
    Does the master switch need to be on or off

    Thanks again man

    Philly
    Likes gvgoff99 liked this post

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Can't find the generator trouble shooting instructions on Zeftronics new website. Pretty easy to diagnose, will post the instructions when I get to the hanger. I would put a meter on the buss to start with.
    Thanks Steve!! Is the bus the same as putting the meter from the ammeter to ground?

    Cheers

    Philly

  6. #6
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,947
    Post Thanks / Like
    The buss is where your circuit breakers etc attach to the main power from the battery and generator. Should see 12-12.5 volts with engine off and 13.5- 14 or so when engine is running above 1200 rpm or so. Here is the trouble shooting instructions and the info on Zeftronics regulator with a good explanation of how the system works with schematic.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    The buss is where your circuit breakers etc attach to the main power from the battery and generator. Should see 12-12.5 volts with engine off and 13.5- 14 or so when engine is running above 1200 rpm or so. Here is the trouble shooting instructions and the info on Zeftronics regulator with a good explanation of how the system works with schematic.
    Brilliant!! Thanks Steve!! Yes, I was doing exactly this voltage measurement from the buss to the rudder cables yesterday when trying to work out why the new radio circuit switch I'd just fitted wasn't working AT ALL!! Turned out that the connector from the battery supply lead (via the ammeter and master switch) to the Buss had broken off when changing the switch!! The fun of working with 71 year old aircraft and aging components!!!

    Ps The battery voltage was 12.54v so pretty healthy despite all the testing I've been doing while fitting the new radio

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    The buss is where your circuit breakers etc attach to the main power from the battery and generator. Should see 12-12.5 volts with engine off and 13.5- 14 or so when engine is running above 1200 rpm or so. Here is the trouble shooting instructions and the info on Zeftronics regulator with a good explanation of how the system works with schematic.
    I've looked at the docs now, thank you and obviously they refer to the Zeftronics GCU which has a GEN FLD switch (or is this a switch on the aircraft? mine doesn't have one if yes) can I do the polarity test up to the point of flushing the field as they describe? and if is reverse polarity, do you know what the flushing procedure is for a none Zeftronics Voltage Controller?

  9. #9
    hotrod180's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Townsend, WA
    Posts
    2,778
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Thanks Tim!! Is this the thing where I touch a lead from the battery +ve to the field tag?! ...
    I don't know who came up with the term "flashing the field" but as seen in this question to me it seems kinda misleading.
    When polarizing the generator, a much better term IMHO, you momentarily touch a jumper from the battery terminal to the armature terminal at the regulator.
    It'll spark, then you're done. The master doesn't need to be on.
    It was easy to remember with the Bosch regulator on my old Harley panhead: B+ to D+.
    Dunno if you'd hurt anything connecting the battery to the field, but it wouldn't polarize anything.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I don't know who came up with the term "flashing the field" but as seen in this question to me it seems kinda misleading.
    When polarizing the generator, a much better term IMHO, you momentarily touch a jumper from the battery terminal to the armature terminal at the regulator.
    It'll spark, then you're done. The master doesn't need to be on.
    It was easy to remember with the Bosch regulator on my old Harley panhead: B+ to D+.
    Dunno if you'd hurt anything connecting the battery to the field, but it wouldn't polarize anything.
    Thanks HotRod, so basically just take a lead from battery +ve and touch it on the armature terminal on the Voltage Regulator, just the once briefly and with all cables connected and the master switch off?

  11. #11
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Toledo, Wa (KTDO)
    Posts
    3,423
    Post Thanks / Like
    Please do some research, because I don't think that is correct. It is the residual magnetism in the field core that needs to be re-magnetized by current in the field winding. Here's a start http://www.davidsonsales.com/FlashGenerator.htm.
    Gordon

    N4328M KTDO
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  12. #12
    PerryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern Calif.
    Posts
    1,845
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Brilliant!! Thanks Steve!! Yes, I was doing exactly this voltage measurement from the buss to the rudder cables yesterday when trying to work out why the new radio circuit switch I'd just fitted wasn't working AT ALL!!
    Rudder cables ??
    Likes RVBottomly liked this post

  13. #13
    wireweinie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    2,616
    Post Thanks / Like
    This is the flash instructions from an old manual. Just be aware that if this generator was working recently you will not need to flash the field. "Flashing the field" as stated earlier just restores residual magnetism, of the correct polarity, in the pole shoes. Also be aware that if done incorrectly it WILL destroy stuff by dumping battery power directly through components. Flashing is usually done after major parts replacement on generators or when the generator has not operated for an extended time (usually several months).

    Web
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.

  14. #14
    cruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Glens Falls, NY
    Posts
    1,441
    Post Thanks / Like
    Easiest way to fix that generator is to call B&C and buy an alternator. You will have good voltage all of the time. You will take some weight off the front of your airplane. You will never have to worry/wonder about it again.
    Thanks JeffZ, Philly5G thanked for this post

  15. #15

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
    Rudder cables ??
    Yes! They're grounded and easy to attach the meter clips to
    Thanks Dave Prizio thanked for this post

  16. #16

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by cruiser View Post
    Easiest way to fix that generator is to call B&C and buy an alternator. You will have good voltage all of the time. You will take some weight off the front of your airplane. You will never have to worry/wonder about it again.
    Yes, they work great!! I fitted one to my BA4B and really pleased with it!! This PA12 is potentially a money pit, so I'm looking to fix wherever possible, but an alternator is definitely on my list of "Would Likes"

  17. #17
    RCharles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    252
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have not read and understood this complete thread so please excuse my butting in .But , If this is a situation is like I had with a generator paired with a zeftronics regulator not working on an L21 20 amp gen it was because the way it was wired ,when the starter was energized the surge caused the regulator to shut down the charging circuit . So now I must pull the generator breaker before I start the engine and after the start reset the breaker while the engine is idling and all works as designed .

  18. #18
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,947
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    I've looked at the docs now, thank you and obviously they refer to the Zeftronics GCU which has a GEN FLD switch (or is this a switch on the aircraft? mine doesn't have one if yes) can I do the polarity test up to the point of flushing the field as they describe? and if is reverse polarity, do you know what the flushing procedure is for a none Zeftronics Voltage Controller?
    The first document is of the standard Delco Remy system. Piper used the master switch to turn on the field of generator. Your PA12 should be wired like this diagram for the PA18.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PA18_Electrical_Schematic.jpg 
Views:	306 
Size:	103.4 KB 
ID:	37885
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  19. #19
    PerryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern Calif.
    Posts
    1,845
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    This PA12 is potentially a money pit,
    Welcome to the club...
    Myself and a man in Washington state are the co-Presidents. You can be our CEO.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G, mike mcs repair liked this post

  20. #20
    hotrod180's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Townsend, WA
    Posts
    2,778
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Misch View Post
    Please do some research, because I don't think that is correct. It is the residual magnetism in the field core that needs to be re-magnetized by current in the field winding. Here's a start http://www.davidsonsales.com/FlashGenerator.htm.
    I dunno who Davidson is, or what kind of vehicles he's referring to, but here's his procedure (from the link):


    1. Remove exciter field leads F+ and F- from the voltage regulator. CAUTION: Failure to remove the field leads from the regulator during flashing procedures may destroy the regulator.
    2. Measure the exciter field resistance from the F+ to the F- lead. You should be able to read some resistance as you are measuring a continuous winding. An infinite resistance reading would indicate an open in the exciter field. Also check to be sure there is no path to ground.
    3. Connect F+ to the positive pole of the battery.
    4. Hold the F- lead by the insulated portion of the lead wire, touch F- to the negative pole of the battery for about 5 to 10 seconds, then remove.
    5. Reconnect F+ and F- to the regulator. Repeat the procedure if the generator fails to build voltage


      Here's what the Cessna series 100 manual says:

      Click image for larger version. 

Name:	polarizing generator.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	255.9 KB 
ID:	37889

    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  21. #21

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
    Welcome to the club...
    Myself and a man in Washington state are the co-Presidents. You can be our CEO.
    Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!!!!!! AND you guys don't have the shipping costs and import duty and value added tax amounts to worry about

  22. #22

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I dunno who Davidson is, or what kind of vehicles he's referring to, but here's his procedure (from the link):


    1. Remove exciter field leads F+ and F- from the voltage regulator. CAUTION: Failure to remove the field leads from the regulator during flashing procedures may destroy the regulator.
    2. Measure the exciter field resistance from the F+ to the F- lead. You should be able to read some resistance as you are measuring a continuous winding. An infinite resistance reading would indicate an open in the exciter field. Also check to be sure there is no path to ground.
    3. Connect F+ to the positive pole of the battery.
    4. Hold the F- lead by the insulated portion of the lead wire, touch F- to the negative pole of the battery for about 5 to 10 seconds, then remove.
    5. Reconnect F+ and F- to the regulator. Repeat the procedure if the generator fails to build voltage


      Here's what the Cessna series 100 manual says:

      Click image for larger version. 

Name:	polarizing generator.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	255.9 KB 
ID:	37889

    Hmmmmmm the Delco Remy Voltage Regulator has 3 connectors - Battery, Armature and Field. I wonder which of these (if any) are the F+ and F- leads?

  23. #23

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    The first document is of the standard Delco Remy system. Piper used the master switch to turn on the field of generator. Your PA12 should be wired like this diagram for the PA18.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PA18_Electrical_Schematic.jpg 
Views:	306 
Size:	103.4 KB 
ID:	37885
    Wow, thank you!! So if all is working correctly, turning on the Master Switch should immediately show battery voltage measured between the Generator Field Tab (on the generator) and Ground?

  24. #24
    Charlie Longley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Arlington, WA
    Posts
    572
    Post Thanks / Like
    You have a generator?

  25. #25
    cruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    South Glens Falls, NY
    Posts
    1,441
    Post Thanks / Like
    http://www.venselenterprises.com/tec...generators.pdf Here is a good explanation of how your generator and regulator work together. Since your generator was overhauled we can assume the commutator and brushes are OK and you probably have a regulator problem. If everything works OK but the north and south poles are swapped on the field poles the ammeter will show current flow in the discharge direction. Since you have a low voltage light you probably have a regulator problem.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  26. #26

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by cruiser View Post
    Here is a good explanation of how your generator and regulator work together. Since your generator was overhauled we can assume the commutator and brushes are OK and you probably have a regulator problem. If everything works OK but the north and south poles are swapped on the field poles the ammeter will show current flow in the discharge direction. Since you have a low voltage light you probably have a regulator problem.
    Thanks Cruiser!! That's a really good explanation!! It still doesn't answer an earlier question though-when the master switch is turned on and without the engine running, should there be battery voltage measurable between the generator field tab and ground? I'm guessing yes from the wiring diagram????

    And a supplementary question, even before the low volts light problem, I never saw the ammeter needle (+/- 30A scale) move significantly at all, just flickering around the +1 to +5 and hardly showing any kind of charge......... I've got the ammeter out now and can take measurements, but what kind of current readings would you expect to see in a normally working Delco Remy Generator?
    Last edited by Philly5G; 07-05-2018 at 09:06 AM.

  27. #27
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,947
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Thanks Cruiser!! That's a really good explanation!! It still doesn't answer an earlier question though-when the master switch is turned on and without the engine running, should there be battery voltage measurable between the generator field tab and ground? I'm guessing yes from the wiring diagram????

    And a supplementary question, even before the low volts light problem, I never saw the ammeter needle (+/- 30A scale) move significantly at all, just flickering around the +1 to +5 and hardly showing any kind of charge......... I've got the ammeter out now and can take measurements, but what kind of current readings would you expect to see in a normally working Delco Remy Generator?
    If you read the schematic you will see that when the master is turned on there will be power from the battery, through the 30 amp fuse, through the master switch to the field contact on the voltage regulator.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  28. #28

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post
    You have a generator?
    Um, yes

  29. #29

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    If you read the schematic you will see that when the master is turned on there will be power from the battery, through the 30 amp fuse, through the master switch to the field contact on the voltage regulator.
    Thanks Steve, I'm actually reading it that when the Master Switch is on, the voltage will flow from the battery/30A fuses, through the MSwitch and ammeter to the bus/jumper, through the 15A circuit breaker to the Battery terminal on the Voltage Regulator and then (if the Voltage Regulator does this) out of the VRegulator Field tab via the other MSwitch contact to the field tab on the Generator and hence my question on whether battery voltage SHOULD also be present on the field tag of the generator on MSwitch switch on

  30. #30
    PerryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern Calif.
    Posts
    1,845
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've never seen any control cables that were grounded, except through the clevises and hinges.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  31. #31

    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    232
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Thanks Steve, I'm actually reading it that when the Master Switch is on, the voltage will flow from the battery/30A fuses, through the MSwitch and ammeter to the bus/jumper, through the 15A circuit breaker to the Battery terminal on the Voltage Regulator and then (if the Voltage Regulator does this) out of the VRegulator Field tab via the other MSwitch contact to the field tab on the Generator and hence my question on whether battery voltage SHOULD also be present on the field tag of the generator on MSwitch switch on
    Once you start the engine and generator is making voltage the field terminal on the generator will send the voltage to the master switch field pole, it wont produce the field voltage until you start the engine and make the generator work.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  32. #32
    wireweinie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    2,616
    Post Thanks / Like
    There is approximately 12 volts there with the generator at rest. This is because the regulator is seeing an under voltage condition. When the engine is running and the generator starts charging, the voltage at the field connections of the master switch, will be some variable voltage, as the regulator controls the current moving through the field windings to keep an output voltage of around 13.8 volts (hopefully).

    To accurately check for regulator action you should measure the voltage at the A and B terminals on the reg (should be around 13.8 volts) with the engine running above the coming in speed of the generator. If that voltage is at around 12 volts, check for voltage at the F terminals on the reg and then on the generator. Battery voltage here usually means generator problems. No voltage here means regulator problems.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes fobjob, Philly5G liked this post

  33. #33
    wireweinie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    2,616
    Post Thanks / Like
    Crap. I've been out in the sun to long. Supercub1999 was spot on on the initial startup. There will NOT be voltage on the field terminals of the master switch until the engine turns the generator above coming in speed. The rest of the troubleshooting description should be accurate. Troubleshooting with the engine running is 'unpleasant' but can give you a much better view of how the system is truly operating.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes fobjob, Philly5G liked this post

  34. #34

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like

    Thumbs up Problem fixed and THANK YOU to everyone!!!!

    I'm very happy to say that this problem is now fixed and the troubleshooting steps were:


    • Adjust and tighten the Generator drive belt
    • Measure the generator output directly
      • This was actually 0V but in later testing I found one of my meter leads was intermittent so this may have been an incorrect reading and red herring

    • Clean the VRegulator contacts with emery paper
      • Closed resistance checked and OK

    • Have the generator overhauled
      • Commutator in very bad state and lots of oil inside the case

    • Still no charging when generator reinstalled
    • Circuit diagram found (given!! - thanks Steve Pierce!!) and all circuits checked
      • No (Battery) voltage at ammeter to ground with Master Switch off
      • Battery voltage at ammeter to ground with Master Switch on
      • Battery voltage at VRegulator B terminal to ground with master switch on
      • Continuous circuit between VRegulator A tag and Generator A tag
      • Disconnect Field lead at Generator
        • Open circuit between VRegulator Field tab and Field Tab at Generator with MSwitch off
        • Continuous circuit between VRegulator Field tab and Field Tab at Generator with MSwitch on
        • 0V between VRegulator Field Tab and VRegulator B tab

    • Replacement Solid State VRegulator fitted (Delco Remy original)
      • BINGO and all working and charging!!!
        • 13.5V measured between Ammeter and Ground at 1500RPM
        • Low volts warning light goes out


    THANK YOU to everyone for the input and any questions welcome!!

    Philly
    Last edited by Philly5G; 07-12-2018 at 04:30 PM.
    Thanks wireweinie thanked for this post
    Likes cruiser liked this post

  35. #35
    hotrod180's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Townsend, WA
    Posts
    2,778
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm curious why you selected a solid-state regulator instead of a duplicate to the original (mechanical) D-R?
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  36. #36
    wireweinie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    2,616
    Post Thanks / Like
    Better regulation and less electrical noise. Also no points to clean/adjust.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  37. #37
    hotrod180's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Townsend, WA
    Posts
    2,778
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was kinda aiming that question at the OP.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  38. #38

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    348
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I'm curious why you selected a solid-state regulator instead of a duplicate to the original (mechanical) D-R?
    wireweinie put it far more eloquently than this, but basically reliability and simplicity and the combination of these is some way towards the big bang/bucks step of going to an alternator

    And to underline what wireweinie said, I also tested the newly fitted radio (without the noise suppression capacitor of the original VR) during the engine running charging test yesterday and not a hint of electrical noise, fingers crossed it'll be the same with the wheels in the air

  39. #39
    coxcub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Devon, England
    Posts
    226
    Post Thanks / Like
    Philly - which solid state regulator did you go for? - I may well be in the same boat down the road.
    Thanks
    Frank
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  40. #40
    hotrod180's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Townsend, WA
    Posts
    2,778
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    ........reliability and simplicity …..
    My personal experience is that gremlins are a lot harder to track down and fix in solid-state electronics.
    For that reason, I kinda like the points etc that you can actually see and adjust in an old-school regulator,
    vs the solid-state stuff sealed in a block of resin.
    Minus a "reboot" button, about all you can do is replace them.
    Of course, I'm the caveman who's still happily running the stock 35 amp generator in his old C180.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

Similar Threads

  1. New STOL tips video (balked landings) and help/input needed
    By learntolandshort in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-13-2015, 06:41 PM
  2. Chalky Paint Troubleshooting Info Needed
    By fabricfan in forum Member to Member
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-30-2013, 04:13 PM
  3. Advantage to staying with same AME??
    By Gordon Misch in forum Medical Matters
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-06-2013, 10:36 AM
  4. Paying Passenger question - FAR Expert needed
    By OVEREASYGUY in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 10-30-2007, 02:06 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •