WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
I am considering purchasing and installing a couple of vista vents in my cub. Any suggestions/tips for doing this?
Thank you.
Randy
Thank you.
Randy
Vista Vent Installation
- Thread starter WindOnHisNose
- Start date
Cub Builder
MEMBER
North Central AR
I personally prefer the 2" snap vents. Simple installation. Pick the center of the hole and melt a center hole through the plexi with a die grinder and abrasive bit. Put the centering drill bit for a 2" hole saw through the plexi and back the plexi on the other side with a piece of 2x4. Cut about half way through the plexi. Swap sides with the 2x4 and hole saw and finish cutting the hole so the cuts meet in the middle of the plexi. I installed a pair of snap vents in my SC clone last year. They scoop in a ton of air when facing forward (summer), draw a bunch of air out when facing back, and do nearly nothing when facing down (winter).
With any installation into plexi, if it's not a round cut, I recommend cutting it with a high speed bit and dremel or die grinder, so it melts rather than cutting, as cutting tends to leave lots of little cracks that can propagate.
-Cub Builder
With any installation into plexi, if it's not a round cut, I recommend cutting it with a high speed bit and dremel or die grinder, so it melts rather than cutting, as cutting tends to leave lots of little cracks that can propagate.
-Cub Builder
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WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
Cub Builder, thanks. I am concerned about having the snap vent open, even facing down, here in the winter in MN. I can see using it in AR, though, just not up here.
Randy
Randy
3-1/4" snap vents close. I had some in my -12. I also had 2" Ultimate Ventilators, which I really liked, but they aren't made any longer. I bought 4 of the small Ultimate ventilators from Van's instead. If they aren't enough I'll go to 3-1/4 Snap Vents.
One comment to add. The 3-1/4 Snap Vents don't have any attach screws so no little holes to crack. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...MIss-NlvXv2wIVjP5kCh2NFgwpEAQYAiABEgKTsvD_BwE
One comment to add. The 3-1/4 Snap Vents don't have any attach screws so no little holes to crack. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...MIss-NlvXv2wIVjP5kCh2NFgwpEAQYAiABEgKTsvD_BwE
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gdafoe
FRIEND
Castle Well Airpark SE of Wickenburg AZ
I have just replaced a couple snap vents. They work well but I have broken a couple. It may be partly due to the fact that the airplane spends a lot of it's time in AZ and the UV there is pretty hard on plastics. The one I replaced with a vista vent. I like it better. I also put in a couple of the vents that Vetterman makes or made, they are clearly the best but I think I bought the last he had. Someone should buy the rights and continue the production as they are really nice. I have a broken snap vent again and will probably replace it with the Vista.
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
There's probably better ways but I have used a piece of thin wall metal pipe/tubing to make a hole for vents. Heat the metal with a propane torch and push the tubing through melting a core from the plastic. Finish the heat melted edges with a fine abrasive flapper wheel. If the material can take local heat it's a quick job. I've had hole saws (even turned slowly backwards) create odd shaped holes and stress cracks.
Gary
Gary
They do close, I have 4 in my cub. Actually helps having the two in the D windows open and reversed so they exhaust when it’s really cold and you need to pull heat aft. Having spent most all of my time this past winter as a passenger, including a single digit themp trip, I can attest it helps.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I have installed quite a few of these and drilled with a 3 1/4" hole saw in the drill press. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvents2.php?recfer=23613
If you are going to drill on the aircraft make a pilot block you can clamp to the window to keep the bit from chattering and making a slightly larger hole that the vent will move around in. Was able to use one of these heavier duty vents to make up for an enlarged hole by one of my previous mechanics. Worked very well.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvent05-01253.php?recfer=8247
Make sure you position the hole correctly taking into account your hand position on the throttle if putting in the triangle window where Piper had the small square vent. Take into account the vent being pushed into the cabin during the winter.
If you are going to drill on the aircraft make a pilot block you can clamp to the window to keep the bit from chattering and making a slightly larger hole that the vent will move around in. Was able to use one of these heavier duty vents to make up for an enlarged hole by one of my previous mechanics. Worked very well.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvent05-01253.php?recfer=8247
Make sure you position the hole correctly taking into account your hand position on the throttle if putting in the triangle window where Piper had the small square vent. Take into account the vent being pushed into the cabin during the winter.
WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
OK, I flew the last couple of weeks with Bill Rusk and he has the Vista Vents installed and really likes them. I see that many of you like the Snapvents. Would you elaborate as to why you chose the ones you settled on?
Randy
Randy
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Vistabvenysbare smaller so less air but take up less space. They fit over the hole instead of in it so if you slightly oversize you hole they still fit. More holes to drill cause they mount with screws. I had them in my Clipper and they worked fine.
X2 on the snap vent.
More air flow.
Re install: surprisingly, I’ve had best success installing in place with a fly cutter, turned slowly on a cordless drill.
As mentioned earlier, cut from both directions.
Adjust the cutter a few thousands small then finish the hole with sandpaper by hand to get a snug fit.
Best to practice for hole size and speed on an piece of scrap first.
Success cutting on older (brittle) windows may vary though, haven’t tried.
More air flow.
Re install: surprisingly, I’ve had best success installing in place with a fly cutter, turned slowly on a cordless drill.
As mentioned earlier, cut from both directions.
Adjust the cutter a few thousands small then finish the hole with sandpaper by hand to get a snug fit.
Best to practice for hole size and speed on an piece of scrap first.
Success cutting on older (brittle) windows may vary though, haven’t tried.
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3-1/4” snap vents close flush on the outside. I used them at the rear seat as exhausts because they were easy to turn forward and aft. Easy to close from outside when I got out and forgot them.
If anyone has a couple of the larger (2” plus) Ultimate Ventilators sitting around I’ll buy them!
I have a single Vista vent on the left front of mine. It works well, but I placed it in the middle of the window. If I redo that section of window I will move it as far forward as possible. Current location tends to only hit my left shoulder with cool air and the rest goes to the rear seat and the usual passenger is seldom too hot.
DENNY
DENNY
Cub Builder
MEMBER
North Central AR
I was flying with these in the mountains of NM before I retired and moved to AR. It does get cold high up in the mountains. Just turn them down or slightly back so they draw a bit of air will cause it to draw more air through the heat exchanger to heat the cabin. Yes, I would fly them in MN, but it's your plane and your call. The other vents work well as well and none are hard to install in plexi.
-Cub Builder
I remember receiving 2” Snap Vents in the mail and how disappointed I was that they didn’t close like the ones I had seen in the catalog. This time of year my plane would be a mosquito chamber without the ability to close the vents while parked. Worse yet, at Lake Hood float parking? A spider chamber!
WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
Stewart, would you elaborate on the comment regarding "didn't close like the ones I had seen in the catalog"? Thank you.
Randy
2” vents are simply snorkles that you can rotate forward to catch air, aft to exhaust air or point them down for neutral air flow, but all the while they’re open to the outside. The 3-1/4” models do the same rotation thing but to open they’re tipped out and to close they tip in so they’re flush on the outside. The 2” model doesn’t stick into the cockpit. When closed flush the 3-1/4” models do stick in equal to how much they tip out when open. That’s why Steve P warned to locate them where they won’t bother your throttle hand.
Or the upper door latch/wing interference. Steve put a block under the latch to prevent the issue on mine which are the 3 1/4" size. I'll take some pics and post this evening.
RaisedByWolves
FRIEND
Tx
Works great. Moves a lot of air
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I bought 4 of the small Ultimate Ventilators from Van's. Temps in south central AK will be near 80 this week and with all the glass in my Cub I'm already roasting. Vents go in tonight after work!
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WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
How are you planning to cut the plexiglass, Stewart? I see more than one approach in this thread.
Randy
Randy
Visa Vent Installation
Randy,
my vent placement made using my template and laminate router impractical. Translation- I would have needed to make templates to fit into corners and I hadn’t considered that when I made square templates. Being impatient, I ended up using a step drill. I needed a 1-3/8 hole and I have a 1-3/8 step bit. For screw holes use a new, sharp bit and light pressure.
I did buy and test a fly cutter. Not useful in a hand drill. Drill press only, and the instruction say that, but I didn’t read those until after I destroyed a test piece.
Randy,
my vent placement made using my template and laminate router impractical. Translation- I would have needed to make templates to fit into corners and I hadn’t considered that when I made square templates. Being impatient, I ended up using a step drill. I needed a 1-3/8 hole and I have a 1-3/8 step bit. For screw holes use a new, sharp bit and light pressure.
I did buy and test a fly cutter. Not useful in a hand drill. Drill press only, and the instruction say that, but I didn’t read those until after I destroyed a test piece.
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Gordon Misch
MEMBER
Toledo, Wa (KTDO)
A unibit (step drill) has a couple of advantages. First, it doesn't tend to grab because it's self-supporting in the hole. And second, once the desired size is reached a touch with the next size leaves a bit of a chamfer which helps reduce stress concentration at the edge. And it can then be reinserted from the other side for the same purpose. Then some polishing with sandpaper can make a very nice, smooth hole with good size accuracy.
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Oops. I never thought about making sure my vents are high enough to catch fresh air. My right side vent went into the top of the lower door. It catches outlet heat from the cowl cheek. Stuff you don't think about until.... No bother. Two of the small vents weren't enough so I added the other two. Better.
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