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Finally used a steam cleaner on the float bottom

Alex Clark

Registered User
Life Long Alaskan
After a 3 weeks of paint stripper, scraping with a putty knife and a wire brush, the under-coats ( yes plural ) on the bottom of the floats were kicking my butt. Not sure what it was, but paint stripper just made it semi gooey. So tonight I hired a guy from Anchor Point who owns a big 4000 psi pressure washer with a boiler unit mounted on it. So you get 200 degree water and high pressure. THAT WORKED...
 

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I gotta admire you for not giving up. That's what I did this spring... just painted right over those cut edges..I gave up.
True determination! Maybe I'll try that guy.
Thanks
 
First thing i noticed. No type of eye protection on the guy. Blasting 4000 psi blowing crap around only takes one time to be blind. Eye protection is cheap.
 
yeap, one guy had eye protection and this guy did get a chip in his eye. Not my problem.. I just paid and watched, while wearing safety glasses.
 
First thing i noticed. No type of eye protection on the guy. Blasting 4000 psi blowing crap around only takes one time to be blind. Eye protection is cheap.

I melted in a grinding chip/spark in one eye(wearing glasses but turned away)... was tough driving to find an eye doctor open, because both eyes wanted to stay shut then.... $250 later I got the chip cut out of my eyeball....
 
Every eye exam I have, I must explain the tiny piece of brass floating around inside my left eye. ( blasting cap )
Being the subject of a safety briefing makes life interesting....
 
So,... do Y'all think this would be too hard on the thin skins (like as thin as .016 or .020) on an aluminum airframe? I wonder why this method is not more-reported.. sounds great on .032 - 040 float skins. (not to mention they're already dented and work-hardened to death anyway) Any more experience out there? I would be a little afraid of pounding the heck out of an airframe but wondering if anyone has dealt with or done it to one..
Thanks
 
The gear used in this case was adjustable for pressure and temperature. Plus they had various nozzles with wider spray patterns. So we started off wimpy and worked our way up,,, And we were hitting it at an angle. There are no new dents or marks from last night's adventure.

My IA uses his gas driven pressure washer to wash off planes after working on them ( Spic and Span first). And I have used my 1600 psi electric spray washer to do the same.

I would not use the high pressure, hot-water system on an aircraft.
BUT... if you had already soaked some wings in stripper and then dialed down the pressure and the water temp,,,,, why not... Like 100 to 110 degrees and pressure like a car wash sprayer.

Of course now it is pouring cold rain,,, so plugging leaks is not working tonight..
 
,,, so plugging leaks is not working tonight..
I haven't tried this but it was recommended to me by EDO to use a household vacuum cleaner to place a vacuum in each compartment. Then brush the sealant on the outside where the leaks are located. This will draw the sealant into the leak.
 
I haven't tried this but it was recommended to me by EDO to use a household vacuum cleaner to place a vacuum in each compartment. Then brush the sealant on the outside where the leaks are located. This will draw the sealant into the leak.

Yep, works like a charm. Find the leaks first with light pressure on the compartments and soapy water. Mark the leaks, then seal as noted. Go easy on the sealant, doesn’t take much. Hen, for big leaks, give the rivets there a light shot.

MTV
 
Yep, works like a charm. Find the leaks first with light pressure on the compartments and soapy water. Mark the leaks, then seal as noted. Go easy on the sealant, doesn’t take much. Hen, for big leaks, give the rivets there a light shot.

MTV

Works great, been doing this and what Pete says on my 72 year old floats every couple years. DON'T us a big shop vac, it's too strong and will damage your floats on suction.

Glenn
 
I haven't tried this but it was recommended to me by EDO to use a household vacuum cleaner to place a vacuum in each compartment. Then brush the sealant on the outside where the leaks are located. This will draw the sealant into the leak.

Works great, I was taught this by Dave Evonson when I was a neighbor kid hang around helping.
 
I have been using a small shop vac to do this for years. Just need warmer temps or a hangar. It was 35 degrees this morning and wet. It has been a crappy May. The few local hangars are full up.
 
Add some glycerin to the soapy water used to detect leaks when pressurizing the floats. It will make bigger and more noticeable bubbles. Makes it easier to detect just where the leak is located. I usually marked the spot with a pencil. Marks well, but cleans off easily.

Jim
 
Flame master firewall sealant. The two apart stuff. Thin with MEK and suck it into the gaps with the shop vac. I have also used thin 4200 marine grade adhesive caulk. It was ok... Three years ago on my last set of floats I used POR15 fuel tank sealant on the entire bottoms. It contains lead and nothing wanted to grow on the bottoms. It lasted 3 summers.
 
I found PRC worked great, but was not as good to suck into a leak.

5200 (3m) cut with alcohol, make consistency of frenches mustard, wipe on and suck!
 
This year I also tried some of the LOCTITE brand sealant / adhesive to see how it works compared to 5200. I cut it with MEK. It worked just fine and dries faster than 5200. Comes out pretty firm after setting up over-night in cool temps.

I am coming into the final stretch....all done without a hangar...
 

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It this the sealant that you used?
pl_seal_hd.png
 
Nope this stuff. I can't get the acid brush off the board I laid it upon.
 

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I need to buy a couple new pulley wheels for the water rudder cables. Oddly enough Lake and Air does not list them.
 
Alex, you might try Aerocet. Oddly enough, I thought they sold Edo parts.

Kurt
 
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