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Thread: belly pod on floats

  1. #1

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    belly pod on floats

    Hi, I purchased a carbon belly pod from Carbon Concept LLC and I figure to install it on my sc this weekend. I just ask me how I'll fit the water rudders pickup tube, mine is on my left. My plan is to put a fuel bladder in the bellypod, my fuel pump, pipes are already installed. any advices? hint?

    thank you


    Bush4

  2. #2
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    I did not want to cut the ty wrap but hopefully you can see what I did. Made a stainless strap on spreader bar with an eyebolt. Attached a cable and pulley to the eyebolt approx 15 in. Cut the end of the fuselage cable tube so the cable comes out straight


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    Mark
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    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory
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  3. #3
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    If you can blow this up it might help understand what I was trying to explain.
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    Mark
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory
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  4. #4
    SteveE's Avatar
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    I like that N number Mark. 4147Eaton.


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  5. #5

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    Thank you very much Mark! it's a good Idea, I was thinking to cut the tube and weld a piece of pipe between the flange and the elbow...

  6. #6
    aktango58's Avatar
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    use stainless eyebolt from west marine
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  7. #7

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    Aktango58, why stainless eyebolt? I already have some an eyebolt


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  8. #8

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    Bush4,
    Look at AKPA/18's picture. stainless bands and rusty eye bolts. If you use stainless eye bolts it will be a lot easier to remove later and not damage the strut. Chip D.

  9. #9
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  10. #10

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    Glenn,
    I little blurry on the picture.
    Chip

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    I didnít knew that product... thank you Glen


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  12. #12
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bush4 View Post
    I didn’t knew that product... thank you Glen


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    Par al ketone was my best friend when I flew an amphib Beaver in Kodiak.....great corrosion preventative. Mechanics in ANC used to hate seeing that thing come in for inspection....they had to remove all this stuff before they could find the plane.

    MTV
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  13. #13
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip D View Post
    Glenn,
    I little blurry on the picture.
    Chip
    Sorry http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...aralketone.php

    All we used a Rhinebeck to protect against corrosion. It's real thick at room temp so scrape some in a soup can and heat it up and you can brush it till it cools, then it stays where you put it. You can cut it with some mineral spirits if you want a thinner mix.

    Glenn
    Last edited by cubdriver2; 04-19-2018 at 12:11 PM.
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  14. #14

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    When I was in high school, I worked for a guide that had a Turbo Beaver on anfibs. When he first got it my job was to replace all the steel sheet metal screws with stainless screws, coat all of the exposed nuts, and bolt heads with Par-Al-Ketone. The Par-Al-Ketone did a great job of protecting the steel fasteners from the saltwater spray. Be careful and do not let it get to close to your favorite sneakers, it’s some black nasty gooey stuff.
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  15. #15

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Almost done!!


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  16. #16
    cruiser's Avatar
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    Corrosion X heavy duty will do a better job with a lot less mess.

  17. #17

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    Jobís done! Click image for larger version. 

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    Iíve cut a little hole in the bottom of the door and replaced the piano wire with another one in stainless and bend the end to make it easy to remove.


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  18. #18
    cubpilot2's Avatar
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    Looks like you rear wires barely missed the door hinge.
    Can you post a photo of how they look from the inside? ( how much in the way are they?)
    I'm wanting a pod for my float cub but the new Landis certified CF unit wont work due to wire interference with their door. I was bummed when they told me that as it good for 170 lbs.
    Ed

  19. #19
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bush4 View Post
    Job’s done! Click image for larger version. 

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    I’ve cut a little hole in the bottom of the door and replaced the piano wire with another one in stainless and bend the end to make it easy to remove.


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    I thought your question was how to run the water rudder cable/tube? Looks like it is still hanging.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  20. #20
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Steel actually comes off easier than stainless when flying salt water, just twist 1/2 turn and it falls off, or in two years it departs on it's own.

    all the coatings you put on can help, but using stainless takes less time, looks better, and my wife is not displeased when I forget to separate my work clothing from my 'been under the airplane' clothing in laundry.

    And before you start on doing my own laundry, then I hear about making a mess of her machine!
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!
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  21. #21

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    Steve, yes it hanging for now, Iíve ordered a couple a pulley with bracket from aircraft spruce but itís back order until may 1st... anyway, the lake are still frozen here. Iíll need to bend pieces of aluminum to hold the pulleys against the rear strut.

    Cubpilot2, yes Iíll take some pictures to show you how weíve fit it and how weíve mesure for the holes

    Aktango58, I never fly salt water. Iím about 200nm from salt water



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  22. #22

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  23. #23

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    Cubpilot2, Now I have 2 piano wire to hold the door, easily removable


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  24. #24
    cubpilot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bush4 View Post
    Cubpilot2, Now I have 2 piano wire to hold the door, easily removable


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    Thanks for the photos.
    I think that I would be a bit concerned about the hinge wearing into the brace wire if the pod were to shift any; perhaps from flight loads or the load you put in it.
    I would think that more clearance along with a rubber sleeve over the wire would be a good thing.
    You don’t want any wear / cuts on those highly stressed wires!

    Spoke with Randy at the trade show and he mentioned something about a split door for floats. Something to think about.
    Ed
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  25. #25

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    We have though about split door but how to seal the gap? And anyway, itís easier to load and unload the pod by removing the piano wire from the hinge rather than struggle with the door against the struts bolts ends...

    I have a bunch of rubber grommets I can put around the brace wire. I donít know if aluminum and/or carbon fibre could damage stainless wire... I have about 1/8 inch loose all around the brace wire.


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  26. #26

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    does anyone have better pictures of how the water rudder is rigged? I have a belly fuel pod and its going on floats next year for the 1st time since I installed it.

  27. #27
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    Describe what pictures you want. Rudder rigging or rudder retract. And what exactly you need.
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory

  28. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by AkPA/18 View Post
    Describe what pictures you want. Rudder rigging or rudder retract. And what exactly you need.
    My bad should have been more specific. I'm looking for pics of the rudder retract rigging and parts please. I think I read the fuel pod gets in the way the regular way the cable is run so a pulley is added on one of the spreader bar? I also recall someone suggesting using para chord for that section as it would rub on tank without damaging it...don't wanna go that route. Thanks

  29. #29
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I think what you are looking for, pictures etc, can be found at this link. There is quite a bit more information as you continue on that thread.

    https://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...l=1#post644630

    I hope this helps


    Bill
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  30. #30
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farm_boy252 View Post
    My bad should have been more specific. I'm looking for pics of the rudder retract rigging and parts please. I think I read the fuel pod gets in the way the regular way the cable is run so a pulley is added on one of the spreader bar? I also recall someone suggesting using para chord for that section as it would rub on tank without damaging it...don't wanna go that route. Thanks
    We run small nylon chord like para chord on the beaver, when it breaks it is much easier and faster to repair.

    Rigging? find an angle from either spreader bar to the retract tube under the plane- that is where to put the pulley (band around spreader bar), and run pull up chord from inside out the tube, through the pulley and connect to the pull up cable from the rudders. The more simple the better!
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  31. #31
    mvivion's Avatar
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    When it comes to fasteners, be sure to consider the galvanic table. Put stainless in contact with aluminum, and IF there’s galvanic corrosion, the aluminum will corrode.

    So, if you go there, figure out a way to insulate between dissimilar metals.

    Then goober it up wit Par Al Ketone.

    MTV

  32. #32
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farm_boy252 View Post
    My bad should have been more specific. I'm looking for pics of the rudder retract rigging and parts please. I think I read the fuel pod gets in the way the regular way the cable is run so a pulley is added on one of the spreader bar? I also recall someone suggesting using para chord for that section as it would rub on tank without damaging it...don't wanna go that route. Thanks
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    I don't know if these are what you want but this is the single pulley arrangement. I just modified the wip pulley and cut the retract tube off and connected to the existing rigging. Bill's method is cooler mine is just farmer stuff.
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    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory

  33. #33
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Lots of ways to skin a cat. Looks pretty cool to me. Clever idea, I like it.

    Bill
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  34. #34

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    Thanks for the posts guys. I'll probably try version 2 as I dont have the skills or tools to make those brackets like bill did. Not sure if it makes a difference either but im on edo 2000s

  35. #35
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    A long time mechanic named Mark Kapsner who a lot of you in AK know, came up with that idea for me in 1987. It was installed on an exp o-290 cuby on edo 1620's. Had to chuckle today when I realized the belly tank on the plane is the same from 1987. I have always had a belly tank so that is the only setup I have ever had. It will work just fine on Edo's.
    http://thrustline.com/

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  36. #36
    jk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AkPA/18 View Post
    I have always had a belly tank so that is the only setup I have ever had. It will work just fine on Edo's.
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    I went the split door route. Used white ďPĒ seal to fill the door gap. I also used a vinyl tubing around retract cable to mitigate the pod wear factor.
    jk
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