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FarmBoy's Oil Temp Thread

Do like carbon cub and add two vents on top of cowling !!!!


Farmboy said:
I have a no-electric C90, with oil screen and no CHT kit.
It’s been thrashed around in the prop thread but the issue is high oil temps when using a composite prop. With all other parameters equal, removal of a metal prop and installation of a composite prop bumps oil temp 25-30 degrees or more.
185-190-200 becomes 225, and with the right heatsoak and climb I saw 240 one bad day. Swap prop and under 190 again. This makes me believe it’s a lack-of-pressure airflow issue.

I don’t understand how one would open up the cowl cheek openings without rebuilding the cowl doors. And the doors also create part of the top cowl “plenum” seal.

Pb


Transmitted from my FlightPhone
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So I was able to test my lower cowl today and I *think* it gained me 10° or more, based on the OAT. On the better as we get a smooth day with a little warmer temps.

If it’s still not enough of a temp drop, it gives me a few options without going in other directions. I’ve got room now to add scoops and a tank blast tube, or continue cutting it back to a larger opening.

Provided it eventually performs as desired, at that point I’ll probably build a new one to tidy up some of the openings.

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Transmitted from my FlightPhone
 

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pb, Have you been flying it all along without the spinner? That does help with the air flow through the openings.
 
Ha! Yeah maybe. I’d be adding top scoops before that I think.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Do you have the baffle underneath the engine that directs the airflow entering the rectangular opening in the cowl, underneath the crankcase and spills the cool air onto the oil tank?
 
I do not, but I found the lower cowl made an improvement.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Farmboy, I’ve got a buddy with similar issues. U have a recent pic of the front end?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Steve, three or four posts up are the photos. If it’s not enough for him he can always add some inlets or scoops to the side of the rounded center section.

Edit: post 122
Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Pete make 4 new u shaped rods longer for the cowl to latch to then duct tape the front opening that will increase the cheek opening without making new doors. my 11 didn't have any cheeks when I rebuilt it and never had any heat issues if anything it was and still is too cold. You could also send me your nose bowl and I will send mine back with all the cracks you should get plenty of air 8).
 
skywagon8a said:
Back in posts #67 & 70 you said that you did. That blows cold air directly onto the bottom of the crankcase and the oil tank.
Click to expand...

Pete, no, I have the center channel that directs air along the bottom of the case up to the front intake tubes. I don’t have the baffle that mounts in front of the oil tank and disperses the air.



Transmitted from my FlightPhone
 
That is what I meant in my question. The cold air entering that rectangle needs to blast on to the oil tank.
 
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