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Thread: Building a Javron Wing Kit

  1. #41
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Just like Dakota wing kit too, yours might be packaged and labeled somewhat better.

  2. #42
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    They are very close to stock except for a large box at the rear spar wing strut attach area like this.........


    Attachment 44936
    As you know the weak point for the wings is the rear spar where the strut attaches. Javron builds this box which reinforces this area. My understanding is the wing has been engineered and tested to 2200 pounds. Personally I set my gross at 2300 and I am comfortable with that.

    Don't have weights yet but I will.

    Bill
    I always find it interesting to see the structures on experimentals and their gross weight vs certified. Smith Cub was the first I had experience with, then saw Legend's wing go up to Dakota Cub and get tested in the Whiffletree to the same standards as the Dakota Cub wings. Interesting that this wing has a gross weight of 2200 lbs with the addition of the sheet metal false spar but a certified Cub requires the rear spar cap and rear strut attach fitting doubler to meet 2000 lbs.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  3. #43

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    On 3rd glass of wine so need to throw gas on the fire, my 13 rib 1951 18A was good to 2070 lbs with none of the pretty boy stuff. Just change the VE speeds. Mike can post pictures of a cub wing held together with a high lift jack and ratchet straps that flew home. Bottom line is even a stock wing is great, any strengthening will help, given the right load/stress any can fail. I am not a big fan of drilling into the cab of a spar but I do like strengthening the strut support (could be longer).
    DENNY
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  4. #44
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    ..... but I do like strengthening the strut support (could be longer).
    DENNY
    The only part of that strut fitting which has been beefed up is the bearing strength of the hole where the strut attaches. The rest of that fitting hasn't been improved because none of the fasteners go through the fitting further up on the spar. For true added strength to be there, that black piece should be extended to pick up those two upper volts.
    N1PA
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  5. #45
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Wing Trammeling


    The first bay is pretty much fixed by the drag tube that goes through the gas tank. It is bolted in and there is no adjustment.
    We will then work each bay starting from the tank bay. There are basically 3 bays that we will true/trammel.


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    Clamp a string on the top of the ribs that sits right over the seam between the nose rib and the main body of the rib.



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    The string will start in the tank bay which is fixed and go to the last full rib (#15)



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    If you tighten this wire it will move the seam (rib) in the direction of the arrow.



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    If you are working with saw horses this might be a little more difficult but.......the tension on the wire should be.....if you pull up on the wire 8 pounds the wire moves 1/4". 1/4" in the center of the wire at 8 pounds pull. So a fish scale will be close enough. Here we use a sliding square and a fish scale. It is not rocket science, and it is not all that hard. The seam in the ribs is really handy in this case. It gives an easy and accurate way to trammel the wing. Do one bay at a time moving out from the tank bay to the tip. You have 3 bays to do.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-09-2019 at 07:59 AM.
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  6. #46
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    #3 Compression Strut Pulley










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    You need these packets. We are going to add a pulley to the #3 compression strut.



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    It goes on the #3 comp strut just aft of the front spar. You can see the hole that is predrilled where it goes. This is the bracket. The pulley will come out to run the cable through then go back in. So you can put the pulley in now just to keep up with it and the bolts/hardware but don't cotter pin it yet.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-09-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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  7. #47
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    Fuel Tank Straps


    Time to install the tank straps. If you are running 18 gallon tanks you will have 2 straps, 24 gallon tanks have 3 straps. The order for 18 gallon tanks (from wing root) is top, bottom, bottom, top. The order for 24 gallon tanks is top, bottom, bottom, top, bottom, top.




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    You will need this packet




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    The straps all have a large washer on the bolt head. Needs to go in this direction to keep from interfering with the tank.



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    Front side of front spar. Double washer on all these bolts.


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    Aft spar. There are two holes back here. You don't need to drill one out. Use the right one. The larger hole goes to a flap hangar we have not put in yet.


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    Front side of front spar showing the top strap hold down attachment part



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    Back side of front spar.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-09-2019 at 08:45 AM.
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  8. #48
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    Leading Edge


    Next we are going to put the leading edge on. Easiest if you put the wing with the spar at the edge of the table or off the saw horses. You may want to clamp it a little to make sure it does not fall off or slip.
    Now we want to block it for the washout. Javron does it a little different but for the homebuilder we will get to the same place in a different way. Make sure the tops of your sawhorses are parallel. It is not critical that the tops be level to each other i.e. you could have a little slope on the shop floor but the tops need to be parallel. Also the tops of the sawhorse need to be about 33" with the spars centered on the horse. The ribs are not level on the bottom so you need to compensate by only having the top of the sawhorse barely going from spar to spar. Basically at this point we want to bottom of the wing to have no twist. At rib 15 we need to raise the rear spar 1 1/8th ". (1inch and 90 thousandths to be exact but now we are splitting hairs and it does not matter). There will still be some flex in the wing to make adjustments but when you put the LE on the wing it does get more rigid. If you don't build in any washout before you sheet the LE it will be really twisted hard to get the washout in. If you don't want the full Piper spec washout in, (some folks like a little less) now is the time to set in what you want.
    We will use cargo straps to pull the leading edge up tight. I know there are homemade clamps out there, like the ones Steve Pierce uses, and they are great, but I am trying to keep this simple for the average Joe. You can buy cargo straps at Home Depot and when you are done you will be able to use them for other things. I know they are a pain to figure out how to use, then after you get them all figured out you don't use one for a while, so you have to relearn it every time you use one. Or at least I do. Get comfortable with them now. Lay them out so they are ready.



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    First thing we need to do is mark a line with a permanent marker in the center of the rib. This will allow us to make sure we are putting the screws in the center of the rib. Make a little jig with a piece of scrap aluminum like this.



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    Line in the center of the rib


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    We will start from the tank bay. It is better to put your tank bay lid nut plates in first. There are 5 to a lid so spacing is 3/4 from edge then 7/78 from the same edge. 15 1/4 from that same edge. Then go from the other side and come in 7 7/8 then the last one is 3/4 from that edge. This will give even spacing. If you are doing a 24 gallon wing it will be 3/4 for first one, 10 5/16, 20 5/8, other side 10 5/16 and 3/4.


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    Hook the straps over the rear spar like this


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    Get the straps laid out nice and smooth and flat.



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    When you wrap the straps make sure they are on top of the nose ribs. One strap per rib for the panel you are installing. If you tighten them down and they are not on the rib you will dent your leading edge. You don't have to tighten them down too much. You can still roll the LE piece around to get the back lips even up against the spar cap. The LE pieces are predrilled. You can slide the strap a little off to the side of what ever rib you are working on, but again don't pull it very tight when it is not on a rib. You can look through the holes and adjust the rib so you are drilling into that center line on the rib that you drew. You can see the line through the hole. It helps to have a 4' long stick (like 1/4 molding with a nail in the end sticking out. You can push with the end of the stick or hook the nail over the rib to pull the rib. Another option to adjust the nose rib....if you gently push/pull on the center of the main body of the rib that will move the nose rib. We are using a #46 drill and the Type A screws. So tank bay first, then work out to the tip. 4 skins total.

    The square tip wing is a little different sequence because of the way the LE skins are predrilled. Put the #2 LE skin on first (that is the one next to the tank bay) then the tank bay skin. When doing this do not install the screws on the outside ribs. You will see this because those holes are not predrilled. They will get drilled using the overlapping piece that is predrilled. Then #3 skin then skin #5 (the round tip wing does not have 5 skins it only has 4) then #4. This will put the predrilled skin over the top of the undrilled skin so you will know where to drill. So you are saying....if I cover the holes how do I know it is centered over the rib? The only one not predrilled will be the edge rib and you can center the rib flush with the previously installed skin so that will take care of that. It will make sense when you lay it all out.




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    The small rib bays will get two screws. Type B so drill with a #40. The larger bays will get 3 screws, one in the middle as well. Both top and bottom of the spar.




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    It helps to clamp a bar (angle aluminum, steel or whatever) across the bay you are doing to ensure the skin is level across the bay.



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    The end ribs, #1 and #15 need to have the screws replaced with Counter sunk rivets. The will both have overlay parts (wing root fairing and tip cover) so they need too be flat surfaces. Several ways to do this. Pull rivets will work here. A note on pull rivets. They are not as good as a bucked or squeezed rivet. They are especially vulnerable in high vibration areas/applications. Prop wash area is an example. They will "work" and become loose to the point that they really aren't doing much good. As much as possible try to use squeezed or bucked rivets.



    Ok.......we are really making progress. We have a big chunk done. Next we will start to work on all the stuff attached to the aft end of the wing. Time for a break. Pat yourself on the back and have a beer. Ya done good cowboy.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-10-2019 at 05:43 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  9. #49
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    Trailing Edge Stuff


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    We need to put a spring on the flap bellcrank like this. So drill a hole in the tank strap to the left of the flap bellcrank.



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    Larger photo so you can see what I'm talking about. This is only for the 18 gallon round tip wing.


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    If you have a square wing or 24 gallon wing you will measure from the center of this hole 13 7/8 toward the wingtip, from the top of the spar go down 1 3/8" and drill for an AN3-4A bolt.



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    There you will bolt on a little tab to hook the spring to. The reason for this is the tank straps are not in the same place on the other wings.



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    We connect the spring to the bell crank like this. two washers go UNDER the spring.


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    We will be using this hardware to attach all the hangars, both flap and aileron



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    More hardware to be used



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    Hangar. There are different types




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    Different hangers.



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    Backside of hangar




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    Backside of hangar at the strut attach fitting




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    Install tail ribs 9A and 11A using the predrilled holes and Tube B screws.



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    Also need to install the bellcrank stop shown under the arrow here.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-09-2019 at 03:35 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  10. #50
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    False Spar/ TE Install



    Don't tighten the bolts to the hangars just yet. If you did so loosen them up a bit.



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    First draw a line in the center of all the TE ribs so we can align the ribs and make sure we are putting the screws in the center



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    It is easier and better if you put your tank nut plates in the tank bay TE part now. Same spacing as the LE piece




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    Lay out your TE parts



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    The edge of the TE ribs have a slight curve to them. We are going to file/sand that curve straight on Rib #7



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    See how it is straight here?






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    We want it to match the TE sheet metal panel#3



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    There is a little piece of metal that goes in the end of the #2 TE panel that closes the gap between the flap cove and aileron cove since they are a different shape. This is why we straightened out rib #7. To make it all line up.



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    Looks like this from the top inside. It is just screwed in. I guess you could rivet it in if you wanted to.




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    On a square tip wing you will have a small TE rib #8A and this rib will close the gap so this is unnecessary on the square tip wing.



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    This part goes on first. Like the LE it has to do with where the predrilled holes are.




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    On rib #15 we need to insert this little piece which again closes the gap. This will be rib 17 on the square tip. This rib is only used for alignment at this time. Don't rivet it in. We will rivet it in when we are done with the tip bow install.



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    After you put it in the slot Butt the TE panel up against it to close the gap, then just insert 1 screw. Next make sure it is square , this one is not as you can see from the arrow. So square it up before you put the other screws in.

    Don't forget to put the screws into the backside lip of the tank bay and the box sections. And don't forget since we are going into the spar cap it needs to be Type B with a #40 drill. All the other sheet metal stuff we have been doing i.e. screwing the TE to the ribs is Type A screws and a #46 drill bit.



    So the TE order is to put TE panel #2 first. Then do the tank bay (#1). Then do #3 panel then #5 and finally #4 which is the box part with all the holes. Again this has to do with how the pre drilled holes are in the panel.


    After all is done we will put a flap on, make sure it all lines up and moves freely then tighten up the flap hangers. Same with the aileron hangers.



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    We will use this hardware pack to attach all the hangers to the TE cove. Use a #28 drill here.



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    We need to put a little 1/8" spacer under each hanger while we are adjusting and tightening and putting the screws in. After the hangers all screwed in and tightened you will remove the spacers. This will ensure they all have clearance around the sheet metal. You will need a max of 4 spacers as the square tip wing aileron has 4 hangers. The round tip wing will only need three spacers. Flaps will need 2 or 3 depending. If you have been careful with alignment the hangers will be evenly spaced from the cove opening all the way around. With everything cad cut and predrilled this stuff should all come out perfect.



    Man we are really cooking with Crisco!! We only have two sections left. The tank bay needs a little work and we have to install the tip bow. We are getting close.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-11-2019 at 08:50 AM.
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  11. #51
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    Tank Bay Stuff



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    We need to replace these screws with flush rivets. There will be a sheet metal wing fairing over the top so we need it to lay flat. There are 3 on the bottom too. So rib #1 TE has 6 screws we need to replace with flush rivets. Use a dimple die here. Metal is not thick enough to use a counter sink.




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    There are 4 screws on rib 15 TE that also need to be replaced with flush rivets for the same reason. An overlay is coming.



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    First we have to put a temporary brace on the #1 rib to make sure it is straight and does not have any bow on it.


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    We are going to be using these packets now. These are braces to prevent the fabric from deforming the ribs. Fabric has a tremendous pull when shrunk and will deform/bend steel, let alone aluminum. It is a good idea to tie off the #1 and #4 ribs with safety wire when covering to help mitigate this, otherwise your tank bay will not fit after covering because the ribs will be bowed from the fabric. These braces are important!





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    The ribs are predrilled for these braces



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    Bend the tab over as necessary and drill out that end hole with a #28 drill and attach to the rib with a #6 screw and a nut.



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ID:	45070Put the other end against the spar, drill with a #40 and use a Type B screw. Front spar and rear spar for the #1 rib.



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    These are the braces that go on rib #4 (predrilled for these) to the front spar. They have to angle down to clear the aileron cable.


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    These are the braces on #4 rib going to the aft spar.



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    Next we install the strips of aluminum that will hold the sides of the tank cover. Trim and make sure the flutes line up. Scribe/draw a line 1/2" in from the side so you can make sure it goes under the rib 1/2" and stays straight while you are flush riveting it in. Then do the same for the #4 rib.
    Then we will install nut plates 7 1/2 inches from each end and the one in the center will be 9" from either end screw. Like this.......


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    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-10-2019 at 05:48 PM.
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  12. #52
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    Wing Tip Bow


    Now we are on the last steps. Everything here applies to the wing tip.



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    You will need these packets.



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    We are going to drill a couple of holes here, 7 3/8 from the center of rib #15



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    And put in rib 15A with Type B screws


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    Rib #15 nose is pre drilled


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    This fitting goes in there. There is a right and a left. They look a lot alike. The small side goes to the top. Squeeze the rivets and boom. Task complete.



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    Put these parts on the front spar like this




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    And on the rear spar like this.
    Very Blessed.

  13. #53
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Now we have to sand and shape the end of the tip bow so it will fit in that LE cup. Patience young Skywalker. Patience. Sand, ....fit....sand....fit....sand some more...fit....



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    Clamp the bow in place and continue trimming, sanding and fitting until you are happy. Here is where it gets a little tricky. You have to drill the holes from the outside because of the angles. Just look carefully and drill slow. It will come out OK. Pay attention to your alignment. Then counter sink the hole for the screw so it sits flush. You can do it. Use a # 19 drill for the #8 screw. Number 8 screws go in the steel brackets. Number 6 screws use a #28 drill and they go in sheet metal/ ribs.



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    Counter sink picture.




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    What it looks like screwed in
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-10-2019 at 02:31 PM.
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  14. #54
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Wing Tip Bracing




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    There are 5 braces that are the same size and one that is a little shorter. The short one goes at the TE. They are drilled in #40 Type B screw 1/2" in from the rib.
    This is the rear spar



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    Front spar


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    Screwed in to the back of the tip bow with Type A screws


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    This shows the location of the shorter brace at the TE



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    Finally The tip is bent around the bow and trimmed and you can use little brads like this.........or.....


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    You could use a #4 3/8th flat head screw. Drill a pilot hole in the wood, then open up the metal with a slightly larger drill, then put a little counter sink in the metal. Then if it were me I would hit the screw head with a Dremel tool sander to smooth it out and make it perfect.



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    Remember this little rib insert box? Time to put it in. Four flush pull rivets will work fine. It just makes the fabric look nice.


    Don't forget to tie up the drag anti drag wires where they cross each other.


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    Ok....pretty much the last thing on our do list. If you want you can add the LE tip cover. The easy way is to do it is to overlap the LE and use 4 Type A screws into the rib and a Type B screw into the tip bow. This creates several bumps in the fabric. I would (I will) probably rivet a 90 degree bracket to the side of the rib so I could make this flush. Its only purpose is to make the fabric flow smoother around the compound curve of the LE tip. Experimental is fun because you can do it any way you want. If you are using this guide to build a certified wing up ya gotta do it Pipers way.

    This has been fun.....well not really.....building the wing is fun....doing this thread, not so much. I'm not a computer expert (or an expert at much of anything) so it is tough and stressful for me. Thanks to Steve Johnson for his computer expertise and patience.

    Next ....in a few weeks..... we will do the flaps and ailerons.

    Hope this helps

    Bill

    I have had the thread mostly locked for continuity, it is open for comments now. Please be kind. I am not an expert, just trying to help others as best I can.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-11-2019 at 09:05 AM.
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  15. #55
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    These two braces are used to minimize the pulling strength of the fabric bending the rib trailing edge, thus jamming the end of the tip bow into the outboard end of the aileron. Look at any fabric wing airplane with a tip bow. It is not unusual to see some distortion in the gap between the aileron and the adjacent rib. Sometimes to the point of having actual interference.

    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-13-2019 at 08:23 AM.
    N1PA

  16. #56
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Thank you Pete. Per your input I immediately edited that into post 51 but it never hurts to repeat it. Even with the braces the fabric can bow the ribs. You are spot on.

    Bill
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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Drag anti drag wires/tubes


    Attachment 44920
    This is the drag tube that goes through the tank. Shows the bolt set up. The nut always goes up against the spar


    Attachment 44921
    Same
    Drag tube through the tank. Is Javron the only one holding to the old setup? I'm probably going to do the same thing.

  18. #58
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVBottomly View Post
    Drag tube through the tank. .
    that's common.....

  19. #59
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    Building the Flaps and Ailerons

    First and this is ..... IMPORTANT..... DO NOT BEND THE SPARS!!!!!

    The spars come bundled together and taped up. The spars are drilled and notched. This notched area in the center of the spar is REALLY weak and it is SUPER easy to bend it. Be really careful not to leave it unsupported and bend it.


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    Here are a couple of photos of how you might want to build a table/work bench if you do not have one. It helps a lot to have a little overhang around the edge to make it easier to clamp stuff. IE don't put your support 2x4 right out to the edge of the top. You will need to make your table 2'x8'. The aileron will still hang over a little but this size will work just fine.



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    A couple more photos of a good bench



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    There are a lot of ways to build a bench, this is just one idea.


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    The first thing we will do is cut 4 2x4's that will go across the bench and hang over about 6 inches. You do not need the padding. This will make it much easier to rivet the ribs on. We will be building an aileron. The flap is pretty much the same. I will include notes on that as we go and have a couple of summary paragraphs to that effect as well.


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    In this photo you can see the holes in the spar and also where the sides are notched. This is where and why the spar is so fragile at this point. Once it is built up it will be fine....but once again.....BE CAREFUL.....DON'T BEND THE SPAR


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    This is where we are. We have a bench and we have 2x4 extensions with a spar in position. The spars are labeled and that writing needs to go towards you.


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    Next we will cleco the control horn in place. Remember the lettering on the spar needs to be towards you so it will all fit up and look like this.




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    As before, you may have to touch up the holes a bit.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-17-2019 at 08:11 AM.
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  20. #60
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then we will put a hinge bracket there. Make sure you use the right hinge bracket. The flap brackets are longer than the aileron brackets. Also, we will use these steel rivets. This is probably the hardest part of building the flaps, or ailerons, or wings. Don't panic. This is a small "problem to be solved". This might be a time that you need to get a little help. If you don't have a rivet gun, don't know how to use one, etc, don't hesitate to ask for help. We only have a few of these rivets to set (8 total) so it is not a huge deal. Don't panic......breathe......you can do this.






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    Included with your kit will be this special bucking bar that Jay makes up. It is pretty much a one time use item. When done you can keep it, or drop it off when you see him at Oshkosh.





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    It fits in like this. Lay the spar on top - DON'T BEND THE SPAR - make sure the rivet head is seated up against the hinge, you will have to lift the spar up slightly when you do this.


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    The rivets go in this way


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    But you will also need to make up this rivet tool. This is a 5.5 inch rivet set but we have ground down the end where the rivet head is to make it thinner so it will fit in the hinge. This is not hard to do. Put the other end of the rivet set in your drill, then while it rotates via the drill push it up against a belt sander or grinder to reduce the diameter until it will fit in the hinge space.


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    It will look like this. You can see that we needed to shrink the diameter of the set to make it fit up against the side of the hinge bracket. These are steel rivets so they take a little more time and force to set. Make sure the rivet head is seated and flush on the hinge surface, you will need to lift the whole assembly off the custom bucking bar so only the rivet end is against the bucking bar, then rivet away.


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    In this picture the right rivet looks good. The left rivet needs a little more bucking.

    That is it. That is probably the hardest part. Javron considered doing this at the shop but it really messes up the packaging and shipping with this part riveted on. It no longer nests and just creates a big problem for shipping the kit.

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    We will use these rivet packs to attach the other hinge brackets. A little info on rivets. There are two types for our purposes. "soft" rivets have a tensile strength of about 16000psi. Other rivets are structural and usually have a strength of 38000psi. You can feel the difference when you squeeze them. All the rivets in the flaps and ailerons are soft (they have the "A" designation in the name, like above as AN470A-4-4) except the steel ones we just used.


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    Here we are squeezing the rivets for the hinge brackets.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-26-2019 at 08:57 PM.
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  21. #61
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    Next we will rivet on the nose ribs


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    The flat side of the rib goes toward the hinge side and the NOSE ribs all face in toward the hinge. There are 4 holes on each side of the hinge. The nose ribs use the holes closest to the hinge and the tail ribs use the outside set. The nose ribs on either side of the hinge face in to the hinge, and the tail ribs will face away from the hinge. You can bend the rib out a little to give room for the squeezer. Try not to bend them too much. We will use 470A3-5 rivets on the horn and 3-3 for the others. Rivet two nose ribs on at each hinge. 6 total. We will do the others later.



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    You will have to bend the nose ribs in to get the squeezer in for the tail ribs. After the tail ribs are on we can straighten the nose ribs.



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    Four of the tail ribs will have an "A" on them. These are notched so they will fit in the where the control horn is. You will have the same situation for the flap control horn.


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    This is what it will look like. Riveted in with 3-5 rivets. The other tail ribs will be riveted in using 3-3 except the ends which we will get to next. So.....rivet in the 6 tail ribs next to the hinges, remember these face out.

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    Tail ribs at the hinge. So now you should have the 6 nose ribs at the hinges, and the 6 tail ribs at the hinges.


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    So now lets rivet on the tail ribs except the end ones. The ribs face the wing root except for the ones next to the hinges which face out from the hinge and the end ribs (don't put them on yet) which will face in. If you are not sure which way the ribs go study all the pictures and it will become clear.


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    All of the end ribs, both flap and aileron, will look like this. Tail facing in and nose rib facing out. These will be 3-4 rivets. It is easier to buck these rivets but they can be squeezed if you have to. Do the end - nose and tail - ribs now.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-30-2019 at 10:29 AM.
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  22. #62
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    TRAILING EDGE INSTALL AND JIG


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    You should be at this point. You can lay the TE on but don't attach it just yet. It is really important that it be straight and also have the washout built into it. So we are going to build up a little jig which will allow us to do just that.


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    The TE goes on with the opening/lip on the bottom.


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    Lets go around to the other side of our table and using a string get a straight line across the 2x4's laying across our table. Now....make another line exactly 10" from that one. We are making a box to make sure the TE and the spar are square, and parallel.



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    Cut some little wood blocks. We are going to need about 8.


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    Attach at the TE on the line.




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    And on the spar side like this. These should be tight, pushing the TE all the way onto the end of the ribs. If it is not seated against the end of the rib the fabric may pull it in causing an unsightly bow in the TE. If we have done it right there is no bow in the spar or TE and the TE is perfectly parallel with the spar and pulled up tight into the ribs.


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    Another photo showing the jig/box


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    Now, using a square, make sure it is square and not a parallelogram. Drill and screw the TE on at this time. Go back to the wing building section to learn about what screw and drill to use. Even after the TE is screwed on it can parallelogram a bit. This will be fixed when we put the diagonal braces in later.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-29-2019 at 11:50 AM.
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  23. #63

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    As a 1320 lb. gross RANS S-7 pilot and builder, I find this thread fascinating, seeing what it takes to build up a 2200 wing structure! It appears, to my eyes, to be built like a masonry sanitary facility. You could drive a truck on it. Anyone know what a wing like that, with a WORKING load of 2200, can take before it actually gives up/permanently deforms or fails? Great parts quality from Javron, and kit presentation (instructions/packaging, etc.), equally important. Makes me almost want to join the dark side and get a SC!
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  24. #64
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    Time to Build Another Jig


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ID:	45871We need to make a jig to hold the flap and aileron straight and square while we drill and rivet it together. So, hustle down to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 4x8 sheet of OSB (or plywood) at least ¾ inch thick and a three 2x4 x8's. Try to get them as straight as possible.
    First we need to rip our 4x8 sheet into (4) 1x8's. Home Depot will usually do this for free. You could ask them to rip a 1'x8' off each edge so you had (2) 1x8 boards each with a factory edge and a 2'x8' from the middle. Basically we want (2) 1'x8' sheets with a factory edge. We will use that out side edge as the reference edge since that is the factory cut and likely the most accurate. This little jig we are making needs to be as precise as you can make it. You can cut wood just about as accurate as you can metal, so get out of your head that 1/4” is good enough. This needs to be accurate to 1/64” or better. We will make these little “L” shaped uprights by cutting 4 1'x1' pieces. Then we will come up 5” and then go in 4”. It would be best if you could make these cuts with a table saw. They need to be accurate, so don't cut on the line, set it so the blade is just touching the outside edge of the line. Make sure you are drawing an accurate line. Be ultra precise. We want your flaps and ailerons to be perfectly straight and have the exact washout built in so they match the wing. Once you have 4 “L” shaped uprights we will use a 1' long 2x4 piece to screw them to the 1'x8' board. Use a tight string to get them all exactly lined up.



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    When done it will look like this. The exact spacing of the uprights is not critical, just make sure it does not interfere with the hinges or control horns. The "L" shape dimensions are super critical and should be straight. Use a string to get them right. Folks, just so you know, this jig is a homebuilders jig and is done to make it possible for the average Joe bag-o-donuts to do this. The jigs Javron uses are made of steel and super accurate, but these will do just fine. Remember.....you are building a Cub, not a space shuttle.


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    Use some rubber bands to pull the TE up against the jig and make sure the LE is seated against the bottom of the "L" Don't get carried away and bend your TE. Just enough to snug it up. Slide the LE edge parts into position.



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    It will look like this in the jig





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ID:	45875Next we need some door shims. We will shim the right side of the jig 3/8” off the table.
    This is the end of the aileron that would be closest to the fuselage when on the aircraft. Then the board will have a little bow in it so you will need to shim the middle 3/16”. The left side may need a screw in the front and back to keep the jig flat on the table. The right end that is up 3/8” may need a screw in the back to keep the back edge flat on the table. We will be able to use this same jig shimmed as is for the right flap as long as you put it in the jig indexed to the left side.
    The flap is shorter so won't go all the way to the right side of the jig but this twist will give the right amount of washout to the flap.



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    Showing the 3/8th shimmed end


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    Showing a 3/16 shim in the center of the board. You may have to weight, clamp, or screw the back of the board to get the twist right. You may also need to use intermediate shims to insure the twist has no bow in it.


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    Now find all your reinforcement panels. They will have a break/bend in them. It helps to use a permanent marker at the bend. Makes it a little easier to align them. Be sure to clean any markings off of everything with acetone (flaps, fuselage, ailerons, wings etc) before you cover. The markings can, and will, bleed through and make a mess of your paint if you don't clean it off.


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    Insert where appropriate. At this point I might point out that some of the holes to be drilled are just eyeballed for the rivets. Your eye will be quite accurate and it is somewhat futile to try to measure and mark each rivet hole. Remember - you are building a Cub not a rocket ship.

    More to follow
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-29-2019 at 04:04 PM.
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  25. #65
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    It will be pretty obvious where the reinforcing plates go. It is really helpful to have LOTS of clecos here. Go bum some off your Vans RV friends. Lets drill it all out and cleco this whole mess together.


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    #4 rivets here.





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    Be sure to square up the end rib before you drill and rivet this end with #4's again


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    Now we can also rivet in the diagonal braces. Again #4 rivets



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    Be sure it is square.





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    So what we are doing now is drilling and clecoing it all together. Once everything has been drilled it has to come apart to debur all the holes and get all the drill shavings out so they don't prevent a clean rivet set. Use the predrilled holes to guide you. Most are predrilled but not all.




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    Sometimes you will need to extend a centerline to make sure you drill in the right place.





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    What it looks like going together

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    All riveted.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-29-2019 at 04:17 PM.
    Very Blessed.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  26. #66
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    And finally....here are some pictures for reference. The flaps are pretty much like the ailerons. Don't forget to reverse the washout shims when you do the left flap and aileron.


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    This should allow you to figure out how to build your flaps, ailerons, and wings from a Javron Wing kit.

    I will go back and edit, and update as appropriate.

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  27. #67
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Can't believe the quality of the Javron's parts. It makes me want to built another set of wings....

    Thanks for sharing your awesome work!

  28. #68

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    I have to ask: how much do the wings cost already built vs. the mess of parts that must be assembled?

    Do the build instructions include details on how to make and use your homebuilt washout tools/jig and why it is important?

    How many hours does it take a skilled builder like yourself to complete a set of wings, flaps, and ailerons?

  29. #69
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I have to ask: how much do the wings cost already built vs. the mess of parts that must be assembled?

    I believe the wing kit is 13.5 and a fully assembled set up is 18.5 (I think)

    Do the build instructions include details on how to make and use your homebuilt washout tools/jig and why it is important?

    Yes. You must build in the washout or the flaps and ailerons will not line up with, and be even with, the wing TE

    How many hours does it take a skilled builder like yourself to complete a set of wings, flaps, and ailerons?

    60 to 80 hours

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
    Likes jrussl liked this post

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