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Building a Javron Wing Kit

Next we will rivet on the nose ribs


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The flat side of the rib goes toward the hinge side and the NOSE ribs all face in toward the hinge. There are 4 holes on each side of the hinge. The nose ribs use the holes closest to the hinge and the tail ribs use the outside set. The nose ribs on either side of the hinge face in to the hinge, and the tail ribs will face away from the hinge. You can bend the rib out a little to give room for the squeezer. Try not to bend them too much. We will use 470A3-5 rivets on the horn and 3-3 for the others. Rivet two nose ribs on at each hinge. 6 total. We will do the others later.
In your pile of nose ribs you will find two that have a hole in them. These will go (one each) on the flaps where the bell crank/pushrod is located. The rib with the hole goes on the inboard side. The hole is to give room to get the bolt in the pushrod connection. If you have any doubt what I am talking about you can reference the Piper Drawings.


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You will have to bend the nose ribs in to get the squeezer in for the tail ribs. After the tail ribs are on we can straighten the nose ribs.



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Four of the tail ribs will have an "A" on them. These are notched so they will fit in the where the control horn is. You will have the same situation for the flap control horn.
All the other tail ribs are symmetrical so they can simply be flipped over to make them face left or right as needed.

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This is what it will look like. Riveted in with 3-5 rivets. The other tail ribs will be riveted in using 3-3 except the ends which we will get to next. So.....rivet in the 6 tail ribs next to the hinges, remember these face out.

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Tail ribs at the hinge. So now you should have the 6 nose ribs at the hinges, and the 6 tail ribs at the hinges.


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So now lets rivet on the tail ribs except the end ones. The ribs face the wing root except for the ones next to the hinges which face out from the hinge and the end ribs (don't put them on yet) which will face in. If you are not sure which way the ribs go study all the pictures and it will become clear.


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All of the end ribs, both flap and aileron, will look like this. Tail facing in and nose rib facing out. These will be 3-4 rivets. It is easier to buck these rivets but they can be squeezed if you have to. Do the end - nose and tail - ribs now.
 

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TRAILING EDGE INSTALL AND JIG


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You should be at this point. You can lay the TE on but don't attach it just yet. It is really important that it be straight and also have the washout built into it. So we are going to build up a little jig which will allow us to do just that.


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The TE goes on with the opening/lip on the bottom.


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Lets go around to the other side of our table and using a string get a straight line across the 2x4's laying across our table. Now....make another line exactly 10" from that one. We are making a box to make sure the TE and the spar are square, and parallel.



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Cut some little wood blocks. We are going to need about 8.


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Attach at the TE on the line.




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And on the spar side like this. These should be tight, pushing the TE all the way onto the end of the ribs. If it is not seated against the end of the rib the fabric may pull it in causing an unsightly bow in the TE. If we have done it right there is no bow in the spar or TE and the TE is perfectly parallel with the spar and pulled up tight into the ribs.


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Another photo showing the jig/box


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Now, using a square, make sure it is square and not a parallelogram. Drill and screw the TE on at this time. Go back to the wing building section to learn about what screw and drill to use. Even after the TE is screwed on it can parallelogram a bit. This will be fixed when we put the diagonal braces in later.
 

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As a 1320 lb. gross RANS S-7 pilot and builder, I find this thread fascinating, seeing what it takes to build up a 2200 wing structure! It appears, to my eyes, to be built like a masonry sanitary facility. You could drive a truck on it. Anyone know what a wing like that, with a WORKING load of 2200, can take before it actually gives up/permanently deforms or fails? Great parts quality from Javron, and kit presentation (instructions/packaging, etc.), equally important. Makes me almost want to join the dark side and get a SC!
 
Time to Build Another Jig


IMG_4580.jpgWe need to make a jig to hold the flap and aileron straight and square while we drill and rivet it together. So, hustle down to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 4x8 sheet of OSB (or plywood) at least ¾ inch thick and a three 2x4 x8's. Try to get them as straight as possible.
First we need to rip our 4x8 sheet into (4) 1x8's. Home Depot will usually do this for free. You could ask them to rip a 1'x8' off each edge so you had (2) 1x8 boards each with a factory edge and a 2'x8' from the middle. Basically we want (2) 1'x8' sheets with a factory edge. The middle two 1x8's are scrap. We will use that out side edge as the reference edge since that is the factory cut and likely the most accurate. This little jig we are making needs to be as precise as you can make it. You can cut wood just about as accurate as you can metal, so get out of your head that 1/4” is good enough. This needs to be accurate to 1/64” or better. We will make these little “L” shaped uprights by cutting 4 1'x2' pieces. Then we will come up 5” and then go in 4”. It would be best if you could make these cuts with a table saw. They need to be accurate, so don't cut on the line, set it so the blade is just touching the outside edge of the line. Make sure you are drawing an accurate line. Be ultra precise. We want your flaps and ailerons to be perfectly straight and have the exact washout built in so they match the wing. Once you have 4 “L” shaped uprights we will use a 1' long 2x4 piece to screw them to the 1'x8' board. Use a tight string to get them all exactly lined up.



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When done it will look like this. The exact spacing of the uprights is not critical, just make sure it does not interfere with the hinges or control horns. The "L" shape dimensions are super critical and should be straight. Use a string to get them right. Folks, just so you know, this jig is a homebuilders jig and is done to make it possible for the average Joe bag-o-donuts to do this. The jigs Javron uses are made of steel and super accurate, but these will do just fine. Remember.....you are building a Cub, not a space shuttle.


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Use some rubber bands to pull the TE up against the jig and make sure the LE is seated against the bottom of the "L" Don't get carried away and bend your TE. Just enough to snug it up. Slide the LE edge parts into position.



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It will look like this in the jig





IMG_4584.jpgNext we need some door shims. We will shim the right side of the jig 3/8” off the table.
This is the end of the aileron that would be closest to the fuselage when on the aircraft. Then the board will have a little bow in it so you will need to shim the middle 3/16”. The left side may need a screw in the front and back to keep the jig flat on the table. The right end that is up 3/8” may need a screw in the back to keep the back edge flat on the table. We will be able to use this same jig shimmed as is for the right flap as long as you put it in the jig indexed to the left side.
The flap is shorter so won't go all the way to the right side of the jig but this twist will give the right amount of washout to the flap.



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Showing the 3/8th shimmed end


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Showing a 3/16 shim in the center of the board. You may have to weight, clamp, or screw the back of the board to get the twist right. You may also need to use intermediate shims to insure the twist has no bow in it.


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Now find all your reinforcement panels. They will have a break/bend in them. It helps to use a permanent marker at the bend. Makes it a little easier to align them. Be sure to clean any markings off of everything with acetone (flaps, fuselage, ailerons, wings etc) before you cover. The markings can, and will, bleed through and make a mess of your paint if you don't clean it off.


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Insert where appropriate. At this point I might point out that some of the holes to be drilled are just eyeballed for the rivets. Your eye will be quite accurate and it is somewhat futile to try to measure and mark each rivet hole. Remember - you are building a Cub not a rocket ship.

More to follow
 

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It will be pretty obvious where the reinforcing plates go. It is really helpful to have LOTS of clecos here. Go bum some off your Vans RV friends. Lets drill it all out and cleco this whole mess together.


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#4 rivets here.





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Be sure to square up the end rib before you drill and rivet this end with #4's again


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Now we can also rivet in the diagonal braces. Again #4 rivets



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Be sure it is square.





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So what we are doing now is drilling and clecoing it all together. Once everything has been drilled it has to come apart to debur all the holes and get all the drill shavings out so they don't prevent a clean rivet set. Use the predrilled holes to guide you. Most are predrilled but not all.




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Sometimes you will need to extend a centerline to make sure you drill in the right place.





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What it looks like going together

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All riveted.
 

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And finally....here are some pictures for reference. The flaps are pretty much like the ailerons. Don't forget to reverse the washout shims when you do the left flap and aileron.


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This should allow you to figure out how to build your flaps, ailerons, and wings from a Javron Wing kit.

I will go back and edit, and update as appropriate.

Hope this helps

Bill
 

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Can't believe the quality of the Javron's parts. It makes me want to built another set of wings....

Thanks for sharing your awesome work!
 
I have to ask: how much do the wings cost already built vs. the mess of parts that must be assembled?

Do the build instructions include details on how to make and use your homebuilt washout tools/jig and why it is important?

How many hours does it take a skilled builder like yourself to complete a set of wings, flaps, and ailerons?
 
I have to ask: how much do the wings cost already built vs. the mess of parts that must be assembled?

I believe the wing kit is 13.5 and a fully assembled set up is 18.5 (I think)

Do the build instructions include details on how to make and use your homebuilt washout tools/jig and why it is important?

Yes. You must build in the washout or the flaps and ailerons will not line up with, and be even with, the wing TE

How many hours does it take a skilled builder like yourself to complete a set of wings, flaps, and ailerons?

60 to 80 hours

Hope this helps

Bill
 
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