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Thread: Building a Javron Wing Kit

  1. #1
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Building a Javron Wing Kit




    Folks


    I have ordered a wing kit from Javron and I will post a "Builders Manual" on here as I go. This will also be made into a hard copy "Builders Manual" that will be given out with Javron Wing Kits in the future.
    I have ordered a round tip, very stock wing kit. My plan is to build a set of round tip wings and compare them to my current "Square Tip" wings to determine the performance differences, if any. Over the years we have all heard about the square tip wings and the performance difference but every time I have read or heard of this, and the "performance gains" the wing change out has been accompanied by a myriad of other changes done to the airframe at the same time thereby masking the true affect of the wing. My intent is to change only one variable, the wing itself, and try to document the performance changes as accurately as I can. I received the following information from Jay DeRosier at Javron regarding his wings........

    Bill
    Just thought you may be interested in these numbers. We have all four different wing configurations in the shop at the same time so it was a perfect time to compare weights between them.


    All weights include fully assembled wing with flap, aileron, gas tank, tank lid, all internal pulleys and hardware. These figures do not include any covering, fuel tank plumbing, pitot or static plumbing, or lights and hardware. All of these wings were weighed exactly the same with the same parts installed.

    Round Tip Wing with 18 gal tanks 91 Lbs.

    Round Tip Wing with 24 gal tanks 96 Lbs.

    Square Tip Wing with 18 gal tanks 99 Lbs.

    Square Tip Wing with 24 gal tanks 104 Lbs.

    Jay

    Javron provides these wings in Kit form with everything predrilled and all parts included to include the flaps, ailerons, fuel tanks, tank covers and all pulleys internal to the wings. He does not include lights, pitot static parts, wires, cables, or fabric and paint. The kits run about 13.5K. A complete set of wings all built up runs about 18.5K


    I currently have square tip wings with 18 gallon tanks on my Javron Cub. That build thread is here......

    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...g-a-Javron-Cub

    As before, I will
    try to weigh everything and post the results here so you may build comparative data if you choose to build up a set of wings using a different kit or materials. I stopped in to his shop and had an opportunity to see his new shop addition.


    This is the welding part of Javron. Currently about 8 fuselages under construction. The shop expansion will give room for more organization and also (hopefully) speed up construction, thus reducing the time delay between your order and actual delivery.




    A wing under construction at Javron






    The outside of the new building/addition. This will not quite double the size of the shop but it is a significant expansion. The building is 60 x 100.




    Inside of the addition. This will eventually have a dedicated area for parts and shipping. Again, Jay is trying to get better delivery times. This will also allow more room for "Builder Assist" which Jay says he is doing a lot of. You can come spend a week (or more depending on your pocket book) working on your kit in the shop. This is a HUGE jumpstart on building your kit and I can see it saving months and months of work.



    So........I hope to get my wing kit before the end of the year and I will document the build here as best I can.

    Hope this helps

    Bill

  2. #2
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Wow!

    I'll be watching closely. Thanks.
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    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Awesome idea Bill, thanks for doing it. Wish they were certified
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    sub3's Avatar
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    Anyone know how the Javron round tip 18gal weight compares to a stock wing, same configuration? 15lbs heavier?

  5. #5
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sub3 View Post
    Anyone know how the Javron round tip 18gal weight compares to a stock wing, same configuration? 15lbs heavier?
    Nobody builds parts as light as Piper did.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Bill,
    What is the span dimension of the round vs square wing? Butt rib to tip?
    Are the flaps the same length? Ailerons?

    An 8 pound difference between round and square is indicative of considerably more material, as in more span.

    Looking forward to your final evaluation.
    N1PA
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    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Pete

    I don't have the exact dimension but the square tip wing is almost exactly 1 foot longer than the round. A stock Piper wing has a 62" flap and a 102" aileron. Add 4 inches to the flap to extend it into the fuselage (to eliminate the wing root fairing), thus a stock flap is now 66"

    With the square tip wing the aileron is moved outboard a total of 24". It is the same length, 102", just moved out to maintain roll authority. The flap then is enlarged to take up the remaining space, thus the flap on a square tip wing is 90". Part of the difference in weight is the square tip wing has 3 hinges for both the flap and aileron, and the 24 gallon tanks have three straps Vs 2 straps for the 18 gallon tanks. Plus the spars are longer. It all adds up pretty quick.

    Jay has also built up wings with 102", and 110" flaps and made the aileron shorter. The 102" flap still seems to offer pretty good roll authority but I have heard that the 110" flap starts to affect the aileron effectiveness.

    My current plan is a stock round tip setup. If I win the lottery I will add a set of Keller Flaps, but only after all testing is done to ensure valid apples to apples data.

    Hope this helps

    Bill
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  8. #8
    G44's Avatar
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    Bill, this is great that you are doing this! I have one request / suggestion. Weigh the wing completed with no covering, then with fabric with no dope or paint then all done. It would be interesting to see how much fabric weighs then see what fabric with paint weighs. Just a thought.

    Kurt

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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Nobody builds parts as light as Piper did.

    Glenn
    This has always been my understanding as well, particularly concerning ribs, but I just saw an experimental cub today with carbon cub ribs and was told they're lighter than Piper ribs- anyone have data to refute/back this up?

  10. #10
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Kurt

    I will weigh EVERYTHING. But just to speed things up a little, here is the data from my current Cub (reposted from "Building a Javron Cub" thread)

    In order - precover/covered/primer/sanded primer/final paint weight
    Wings
    Left - 73.85/79.4/85.25/84.2 (85.7/85.05 reprimer/resand)/88.15
    Right - 73.2/78.85/83.8/83.5/86.8
    So total covering and paint for the wings was 446.4oz/27.9pds (roughly 14 pds each)

    L Flap - 76.06/86.8/xx/97.0/103.0
    R Flap - 75.95/86.15/xx/96.15/102.5
    R Aileron - 88.28/99.26/xx/109.25/115.4
    L Aileron - 88.12/99.36/xx/107.6/113.68

    xx = I forgot to weigh after primer only, next number is after sanding the primer

    So total covering and paint on the flaps and ailerons was 106.17oz/6.63pds

    Thus total paint for wings, flaps and ailerons is 17.3pds per wing.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
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  11. #11
    G44's Avatar
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    Thanks Bill !!!

    Kurt
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    I was wondering why Javron didn't pay you to put together a builders manual on your last build.

    Good deal all around.

    Oh! and as for "Hope this helps". yes it does.
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  13. #13

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    Bill if you're board I'd be glad to share some items off of my to-do list...
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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  14. #14
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    The wing kit is supposed to be delivered Feb 15. Charlie Becker from the EAA will be here to see it, and film it. I ordered a new computer to help with the builders manual, and also all the photos, and updates on this thread.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    The wing kit arrived Feb 15 as planned.



    It comes all boxed and on a pallet. I took it off the pallet and managed to leave that with the shipper. One less thing to get rid of.



    All the boxes and two tubes for the spars. Big tube for wing spars, smaller tube has the flap and aileron spars.



    Everything is very well packaged and nothing was damaged. Very well done.



    Wing leading edges. Each one separated by paper so they don't get scratched up.



    One of the hardware packs. Each sub pack is labeled. Includes everything right down to the rivets.



    Pushrods with ends and required nuts and bolts assembled.



    Everything is precut and pre drilled. These are the flap/aileron spars (nestled together for shipping)



    The steel parts are zinc plated. Very nice welding!!



    Pretty much everything. A lot of stuff is still nestled so you are not seeing every single part but this will give you a pretty good idea of what a Javron wing kit looks like.

    I had a suggestion to put a screw in the ends of the wingtip bows and to use a little safety wire to keep the bow in them so they don't relax too much while in storage. Pull it until the ends are about 60" apart. Very Important. Done. Thanks.


    I am currently working on the annual condition inspection of my Javron Cub so it may be a few weeks until I am able to really dive into the new wings.

    Hope this helps


    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-10-2019 at 01:48 PM.
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    Status

    Hello Bill,

    Any progress on the wing kit?

    Thanks
    Charlie

  17. #17
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Charlie

    Thanks for asking. Unfortunately no. I've been pretty wrapped up trying to get my current cub ready for another summer in Alaska. Hope to get started in July.

    Bst regards

    Bill
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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Building a Javron Wing Kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Kurt

    I will weigh EVERYTHING. But just to speed things up a little, here is the data from my current Cub (reposted from "Building a Javron Cub" thread)

    In order - precover/covered/primer/sanded primer/final paint weight
    Wings
    Left - 73.85/79.4/85.25/84.2 (85.7/85.05 reprimer/resand)/88.15
    Right - 73.2/78.85/83.8/83.5/86.8
    So total covering and paint for the wings was 446.4oz/27.9pds (roughly 14 pds each)

    L Flap - 76.06/86.8/xx/97.0/103.0
    R Flap - 75.95/86.15/xx/96.15/102.5
    R Aileron - 88.28/99.26/xx/109.25/115.4
    L Aileron - 88.12/99.36/xx/107.6/113.68

    xx = I forgot to weigh after primer only, next number is after sanding the primer

    So total covering and paint on the flaps and ailerons was 106.17oz/6.63pds

    Thus total paint for wings, flaps and ailerons is 17.3pds per wing.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Needed basic cub wing weights to compare to for a set of sq? Wings I’m about to cover. Did I interpret bills numbers correctly?? Some in pounds some in ounces .......


    In picture is what I come up with. My scale is old not sure how accurate it is and the wing was in my wing stand so probably 3 or 4lbs there that needs removing. But almost double the weight..... not counting leading edge slats and the flap leading edge slot pieces (so +4.5 lb for the flap pieces)

    Anyone got links to other weight threads?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #19
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Stuff I have weighed and notes I have taken:

    Dakota Cub slots weigh 6.53 lbs each and you can subtract the weight of the nose ribs.

    Dakota Cub wings weigh 5-6 lbs. per wing more than stock.
    13 rib, DC ribs complete no cables. 68.4 lbs.
    Legend Cub Wing 57 lbs.
    Standard Super Cub wing w/Dakota Cub ribs 77.17 lbs.
    DC Square wing 86 lbs.
    DC Slotted Wing 92.5 lb.
    Stock 1982 Super Cub left wing with factory covering, fuel tank, fuel tank cover, landing light, nav light, flap gap seal, wing root fairing attach bracket, fuel hose. 96.5 lbs
    16 rib SC wing, Univair Ribs, 2K GW with carry-thru cable and strobe and nav light wires 72.9 lbs.
    13 rib Wing weighs 64 lbs. set up for flaps. Uncovered. No wires or light.
    same 13 rib wing weighs 72.7 lbs. covered in Polytone with minimum silver etc.
    Dakota Cub slotted wings with flaps, ailerons, tanks and covers 124 lbs. ea.
    Keller’s fowler flaps add 8 lbs.
    Maule wing 160 lbs. Ea.
    Dakota Cub J3 wing with 12 gallon fuel tank installed no lid, cables and nav light wire 77.9 lbs.
    Dakota Cub J3 wing, cables and nav light wire 66.5 lbs.
    68.4 lbs. 13 rib, DC ribs complete no cables.
    Super Cub Flaps
    Metal late model 4.8 lbs.
    Covered thru Polybrush 4.20 lbs.
    Old dope w/duct tape 4.5 lbs.
    DC extended inbrd. thru Polybrush 4.70 lbs.
    Aileron Cub Crafters cover and paint 7.2 lbs.
    Metal aileron 8.5 lbs.
    18 gallon Piper fuel tank 8.5 lbs.
    18 gallon DC fuel tank 9.9 lb.
    24 gallon DC fuel tank 12.4 lb.
    11 gallon DC fuel tank 7.15 lbs.
    24 gallon DC fuel tank lid 4.6 lbs.
    Piper tank lid 3.3 lbs stripped
    3.5 lbs factory paint
    Carbon Concepts tank lid 1.8 lbs.




    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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  20. #20
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Mike - something seems wonky. Should be 8 to 15 pounds more. Yes, wing weights are in pounds, everything else in Oz.

    Steve - awesome. Thank you for posting that!!

    I think I remember Javron saying his Sq tip wing was about 4.5 pounds heavier than a round tip one, per panel.

    Bill
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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Building a Javron Wing Kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Mike - something seems wonky. Should be 8 to 15 pounds more. Yes, wing weights are in pounds, everything else in Oz.

    Steve - awesome. Thank you for posting that!!

    I think I remember Javron saying his Sq tip wing was about 4.5 pounds heavier than a round tip one, per panel.

    Bill
    These are the heaviest cub wings Iíve ever lifted. Lots of bracing for the flaps and ailerons. No idea how good my scale is.. but these things are comparable to Cessna weight.

    Also, no tank covers included in the weight

    But if they work better then oh well....

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    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    Needed basic cub wing weights to compare to for a set of sq? Wings Iím about to cover. Did I interpret bills numbers correctly?? Some in pounds some in ounces .......


    In picture is what I come up with. My scale is old not sure how accurate it is and the wing was in my wing stand so probably 3 or 4lbs there that needs removing. But almost double the weight..... not counting leading edge slats and the flap leading edge slot pieces (so +4.5 lb for the flap pieces)

    Anyone got links to other weight threads?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is the length of backcountry wings longer than the javron squared wings?

  23. #23
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderhead85 View Post
    Is the length of backcountry wings longer than the javron squared wings?
    These are 17 feet long from attach fittings to last rib.

    I also weighed myself on that scale and it seems plausible with the number I get at the house.


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  24. #24
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    Time to get started. We are going to start with a little warm up.

    Building the ribs
    First we are going to assemble and rivet the wing ribs together.

    Tools needed.
    Clecos (you will need around 16 to 20). It goes faster if you cleco all 4 joints together, then rivet
    Cleco pliers (I recommend the ones with rubber grips. Much more comfortable)
    Rivet squeezer with a #4 die set.
    #30 drill bit(s)
    Drill
    A couple of spring clamps

    All the rib pieces are numbered. So the #1 nose rib, goes to the #1 main body to the #1 tail rib. The packages of doublers are also labeled.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If all the holes do not line up perfectly you have got something wrong. Trust me. This stuff all dovetails together and lines up.


    Before we get started we need to modify the #1 Main body ribs (two of them, remember we are building two wings)


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    We are looking at this area

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    The notch is right here where the arrow is. Trailing edge of main body of #1 rib, top of opening in front of the rear spar.


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    We are going to cut out a notch where the black marker is. Right to the edge of the hole. See above photo for what it will look like.
    You can do it after the rib is assembled on the wing, but it is much easier to do it now.
    This is only done on the #1 main body rib. This gives room for the tube that goes through the tank.


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    Cleco a complete rib together and spring clamp it to the edge of the table. Each joint has a doubler with a bend that goes under the lip (inside) on the rib, and a flat doubler that goes on the outside of the rib.


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    Picture of the flat doubler on outside of rib. Rivet heads all go on the outside of the rib.


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    Rivet away. You may have to run the drill through the holes to clean them up to get the rivet in.
    Javron supplies the rivets. The large bag with the most rivets in it is the one for the ribs, but here are a few general rivet rules...
    Rivet rules
    1) Rivet diameter should be 3X the thickest sheet (you will be using all #4 rivets for this part)
    2) Rivet length should extend out 1.5 x the diameter of the rivet
    3) After the squeeze the bulb should be 1.5x the diameter and .5x the diameter high. It is not rocket science. Adjust the squeezer to get the proper size.

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    You could get a little set of rivet gauges like these. You will quickly develop an eye for a properly squeezed rivet. You do need to pay attention that the squeezer does not work out of adjustment. Mine tends to rotate a little each squeeze so I have to keep an eye on it and re-adjust it every few rivets.

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    The outside doubler on rib#16 (the small one next to the tip bow) is not flat. It has a lip and so it goes on like the photos above. You will also need to increase the opening for the rear spar with a hand file. It needs to slide on to where the predrilled holes are in the spar.

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    Inside doubler on rib 16 is like all the others.


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    You will have 4 tank bay ribs (2 per wing) if you are doing a 18 gallon tank wing or 6 tank bay (3 per wing) ribs for the 24 gallon tank wing. They look like this.

    So basically it is a case of cleco, drill, rivet, rinse repeat. 32 times. Not hard. Pretty repetitive.

    You have now assembled all your ribs.

    Congratulations. That was not so bad.

    Folks - Before you build the wings, you need to build the flaps and ailerons. You will use them to adjust the flap and aileron hangers. This thread is a little out of sequence. Sorry bout that. So scroll down until you get to that section. Build the flaps and ailerons, then come back here and build the wings.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 11-17-2019 at 07:38 AM.
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  25. #25
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Now that we have our ribs assembled, lets build a wing. We will be working from the root to the tip.

    Put your spars on a couple of saw horses or a large table. If you use a table you will need to block the spars up a little so there is some room under the spars for the ribs.



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    The ribs go in order with #1 being the root rib. Note that all the ribs have the outside facing the tip except the #1 rib. The inside of the #1 rib faces the tip. You can see that in this photo.



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    You can see the blocks holding the spar off the table. You will need a little more than a 2x4. We are not adjusting for washout at this point so just block all 4 points at the same height. Again this photo shows the way the ribs face.

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    This is the #16 rib. Remember that we had to open up the rear spar opening so it would slide on the spar.


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    Next we are going to put on the wing attach fittings. Before you put the bolts in the spar get bushing pack "80022-31 Bushing". The outside hole in the front spar and the outer 2 holes of the aft spar will get a bushing in them. You should be able to insert the bushing with a light press fit. Put a light coating of grease on the bushing first. You can use a light tap from a plastic mallet if it helps. The bushing should not be so loose as to fall out without any pressure. The fittings and the spar are all reamed prior to shipping the kit so it should fit. After inserting the bushings then slip the bolts through the fittings /spar. The bolts must go in this way to keep from interfering with the fuel tank. Also the #1 rib has to be in the right place because it will get captured by the bolts and nuts. It needs to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolts as shown here. Torque to 160" pounds.
    If the bushing will not fit you can bolt the fittings on and then ream with a .3755 reamer. This is a somewhat unusual size (verses a standard 3/8ths which is .375) I'm trying to avoid having you buy a reamer you will only use a couple of times. By inserting the bushing before bolting the fittings to the spar we allow the bushing to be the driving alignment factor Vs the bolts in the spar.


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    You will be using these hardware kits.


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    And this kit.


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    Rear spar attach doubler. Torque these to nuts to 160" pounds. The two outside holes (closest to the fuselage) will have the bushings in them.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-07-2019 at 06:06 PM.
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  26. #26
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Next we will attach the flap bellcrank to the rear spar.

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    You will be looking for the packets that refer to the Flap Bellcrank. Most of this will be pretty easy to figure out but it is time to talk about screws. You will find a packet of small sheet metal type screws. It will have 2 different types of screws in it. Some will be stainless and have a pretty sharp point on them. These are Type A screws. The others (about the same size) will have a blunt tip and will be cad plated steel. You can usually tell stainless because it will be weakly attracted to a magnet where a cad plated steel screw will be much more strongly attracted to a magnet. The blunt tip screws are type B screws. The sharp point (Type A) screws are used for sheet metal to sheet metal. We use a #45 drill for these. The Blunt type screws (Type B) are used to go into thicker aluminum.... like into the wing spar. We use a #40 drill for these.


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    Picture of what we are doing. The top bolt holes are pre drilled in the spar. The bottom holes for the Type B screws you will need to drill.....#40 remember?


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    The narrow arm of the bell crank goes towards the wing root. It is pretty close to symmetrical so pay attention here.


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    Back side. The bracket is pre drilled so you can use that as a guide for the bottom screw holes.


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    You will want to get this configuration correct, with the right number of washers in the right place. Don't bend the cotter pins yet. We are just positioning everything.
    So.....you have now.....

    1) Riveted the ribs together
    1a) Notched #1 ribs
    1b) Opened up the rear spar opening in rib #16
    2) Placed the ribs on the spars
    3) Bushed the wing /fuselage attach fittings
    4) Bolted the attach fittings to the spars
    5) Bolted the flap bellcrank to the rear spar
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-07-2019 at 10:10 PM.
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  27. #27
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Jury Strut Attach Fittings


    Next we will attach the jury strut attach fittings.


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    They go here. The spar is pre drilled



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    You need these packets




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    It goes on the back side of the front spar


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    This one goes on the front side of the rear spar


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    Back side of the one on the front spar


    So.....you now have the jury strut attach fittings installed.


    Hope all this helps

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-07-2019 at 09:31 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  28. #28

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    Very informative. I just put new spars and some ribs in a Dakota wing. I found that Snap-On screwdrivers are a must, and that for rib to spar type B screws best to run a #4 in each hole with small visegrips before assembly.

    What would be neat is a tool to make pre-threading possible with rib in place - those ribs where I forgot to pre-thread were bearish. My hand still hurts.

    Oh, and last time I put new spars in a wing, I had this neat electric screwdriver - seemed to make things easier. They apparently don't make the skinny kind any more, so batteries are non existent.
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  29. #29
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    nice to see the wing attach fittings/doubler/trippler? are not the original aluminum spar piper style extrusions, but SOLID... thats the weak link in a piper wing(falls off...), inspect original piper extrusions WELL at attach attach bushing for cracks... especially after wing strike or upside down airplane... and at annual....

  30. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    Very informative. I just put new spars and some ribs in a Dakota wing. I found that Snap-On screwdrivers are a must, and that for rib to spar type B screws best to run a #4 in each hole with small visegrips before assembly.

    What would be neat is a tool to make pre-threading possible with rib in place - those ribs where I forgot to pre-thread were bearish. My hand still hurts.

    Oh, and last time I put new spars in a wing, I had this neat electric screwdriver - seemed to make things easier. They apparently don't make the skinny kind any more, so batteries are non existent.
    Our batteries plus store here will put new batteries packs in old tools. Iíve got small Mikita I had done because itís so useful due to its small size. You might try to see if you can find similar. Plus one on the snap on screwdrivers and picks.

  31. #31
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    Very informative. I just put new spars and some ribs in a Dakota wing. I found that Snap-On screwdrivers are a must, and that for rib to spar type B screws best to run a #4 in each hole with small visegrips before assembly.

    What would be neat is a tool to make pre-threading possible with rib in place - those ribs where I forgot to pre-thread were bearish. My hand still hurts.

    Oh, and last time I put new spars in a wing, I had this neat electric screwdriver - seemed to make things easier. They apparently don't make the skinny kind any more, so batteries are non existent.
    12" #1 Phillips and Dakota Cub spar screws work great.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  32. #32
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Lift Strut Fittings

    Next we will attach the lift strut fittings. These will also include pulleys and a aileron hinge point.


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    We will start with these packets


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    Note the closer hole edge distance of the spacer where the arrow is. This end goes towards the top of the spar.


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    You need to put in just these bolts for now. The other holes will have other pulley brackets or N strut fittings. This is the aft side of the front spar.


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    Front side of front spar




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    You need these packets now


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    Shows pulley bracket on aft side front spar with spacer.





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    Aft side of rear spar. Again just these bolts for now.


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    The aileron hangar will hit the top of the lift strut right where the arrow is. So.......


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    Put the pieces together and mark a line where they hit.


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    Then we are going to make a little bend/dent in the lift strut.


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    Looks like this. This will keep the bottom of the aileron hangar from hitting the lift strut which would prevent perfect alignment of the hangar.



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    This shows the hangar and the lift strut fitting and the arrow is where we put the bend in to fix the interference.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-08-2019 at 08:48 AM.
    Very Blessed.
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  33. #33
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Aileron Pulley on aft spar at lift strut




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    Going to need these packets to install the pulley and bracket that attaches at the aft lift strut fitting on the rear of the aft spar


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    Assemble the pulley like this. There are no washers between the pulley and the bracket. Bolt, bracket, pulley, bracket, washer, nut, cotter pin in order.


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    Front side of aft spar. Note where the fender washer goes and the bracket.


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    Aft side of rear spar. Note that it takes two washers on each bolt.


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    So here is where we are right now. Aft spar lift strut, with aileron pulley mounted.
    Very Blessed.
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  34. #34
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Compression Struts


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    The first compression strut (next to rib #1) will hit the wing attach fitting on the front spar. We will be using the upper hole, so we will need to grind a little off.
    The lift struts are all numbered and they are mirrored for the left and right wings. The difference will only be the direction the rivets that are on the lift trust face. You can choose if you want. I like to put the rivet head facing the root. Just looks nicer.


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    We will sand it off along the line.


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    Shows the angle. It is a little low in the photo just to show what we are trying to do.


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    You will need these packets for the front spar lift struts


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    We will make the bracket vertical and drill #40 and insert a Type B screw. Also note the safety tab that will be bent up around the bolt. There is a packet of safety tabs.


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    Note the large washer that goes between the spar and the compression tube



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    Aft spar #1 compression tube packets needed


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    Note the wire pull goes between the aft spar and the compression tube. This is where we notched that rib.....remember? And why we notched that rib.


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    Aft side of the aft spar. We need the safety tab. No washer.


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    Front side of the front spar. Shows the bent safety tab and the screw on the bottom.



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    This compression tube needs to be leveled so the top is parallel to the top of the spars. Then the wire pull on the aft spar needs to be leveled against this.


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    Wire pull between the compression tube and the rear spar. Leveled with the top of the compression tube so it will line up with the tube going through the tank.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-08-2019 at 10:05 AM.
    Very Blessed.
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  35. #35
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Compression Struts #2, 3, 4 (N strut), and 5


    Compression struts 2 and 3 are pretty much the same except 3 gets double wire pulls on both ends


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    You will need these packets to install the compression struts #2 and #3



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    Front side of front spar. Note once again the Type B screw. You should know how to do this now
    Note the safety tab too. No washer under safety tabs.



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    Note double wire pull on aft side of front spar. Level things again.



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    Front side of aft spar. Single wire pull on #2 Comp strut



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    Aft side of the aft spar. Safety tab properly bent.

    #3 strut is pretty much just like #2 except both wire pulls are doubles. #5 compression is like 2 and 3 except it has single wire pulls on both ends of the comp strut. The short side of the wire pull always goes under the comp strut. The long side goes to the wire on all wire pulls.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-08-2019 at 03:22 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  36. #36
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Compression Strut #4 (N strut)


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    You need these packets


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    Note the wire pulls have slightly different bends. The shallow angle goes toward the wing tip. The sharper angle side goes towards the wing root. Once you get them in you can see the angles and the reason for the different bends.


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    Note the spacers. 2 of them (two wings) have a flat spot on the side. The flat side goes in the aft spar strut attach fitting with the flat side up against the bottom of the aft spar.
    The round ones go in the front spar strut attach fitting.


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    Where the spacer goes aft spar fitting




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    All the compression tube bolts have a safety tab under them. No washer, just the tab.





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    The struts have a bushing in there so you don't collapse the tube when you tighten things up.


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    Note the orientations of the rivet heads and the bolts. We want to make sure nothing hangs down on the bottom and pokes out through the fabric.
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-08-2019 at 02:26 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  37. #37
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Next we will attach the ribs. The front side of the front spar is pre drilled and the backside of the aft spar is predrilled. It does help to have a electric drill and a screwdriver bit to put these screws in. Type B screws.

    After the ribs are attached with the predrilled holes, then we get to drill the holes on the inside of the spars (#40 bit remember) Put a .020 piece of aluminum between the spar cap and the web so you don't drill into the web. Then put in the Type B screws so all the ribs are all screwed in.
    Very Blessed.

  38. #38
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Drag anti drag wires/tubes


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    You will need this packet


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    This is the drag tube that goes through the tank. Shows the bolt set up. The nut always goes up against the spar


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    Same


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    In each bay alternate which wire is on top where they cross over each other. Each of these bolts needs two washers
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 10-08-2019 at 04:32 PM.
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  39. #39
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Almost exactly like a PA18 wings so far. What is the gross weight of these wings and fuselage?
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  40. #40
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    They are very close to stock except for a large box at the rear spar wing strut attach area like this.........


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    As you know the weak point for the wings is the rear spar where the strut attaches. Javron builds this box which reinforces this area. My understanding is the wing has been engineered and tested to 2200 pounds. Personally I set my gross at 2300 and I am comfortable with that.

    Don't have weights yet but I will.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

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