Looks like a simple set up. My favorite part is the McCatto painted prop.....what length and pitch?
Backcountry Engine Preheat
- Thread starter Cub Special Ed
- Start date
couldnt tell you, not my plane..
Real old school stuff was to drain oil at end of flight and heat on stove before flight. What a lot don't add is they also used the Tent cover over cowl to preheat the engine before adding oil.
How about oil dilution with gas. Another old school way to get the job done!!
DENNY
DENNY
How about oil dilution with gas. Another old school way to get the job done!!
DENNY
DENNY
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
I use the lower half of an old lightweight sleeping bag I "retired", and cut in half, (giving me the excuse I needed to buy a new one) as an engine cozy. It's also part of my winter survival gear, along with my 2 other full bags. 1 light weight, 1 medium, put them together, one inside the other, plus the half bag, and I'm not getting cold, pretty sure anyway.
I just bought a 1000 watt Yamaha, instead of the Honda, as it's 1 lb. lighter, and a bit quieter decibel wise, and seems to be be equally highly regarded. I bought it to run my crane operator cab AC unit, a little 5,000 BTU household unit that only draws 400 watts. And of course, I now have a mobile power source for ski flying. Anyone with any experience using the Yamaha. and if so, does it also need some mods on the breather?
I just bought a 1000 watt Yamaha, instead of the Honda, as it's 1 lb. lighter, and a bit quieter decibel wise, and seems to be be equally highly regarded. I bought it to run my crane operator cab AC unit, a little 5,000 BTU household unit that only draws 400 watts. And of course, I now have a mobile power source for ski flying. Anyone with any experience using the Yamaha. and if so, does it also need some mods on the breather?
40m
SPONSOR
Shoreham, VT
"Im still a little nervous around this setup as heat source is open flame. Fire extinguisher close at hand and don't leave heating plane unattended."
Ok, let's see if I get this. Engine covered to protect from wind, cold and heat loss, gas (flame producing) heat source under my engine with me standing in the wind and cold with fire extinguisher in hand to protect my $100,000+ investment. Makes me shiver just thinking about it and I'm sitting at my desk with a hot cup of coffee in hand. However that's just me and my stinky opinion on the other side different strokes, missions and needs. That I get.
Reiff and Honda.
Ok, let's see if I get this. Engine covered to protect from wind, cold and heat loss, gas (flame producing) heat source under my engine with me standing in the wind and cold with fire extinguisher in hand to protect my $100,000+ investment. Makes me shiver just thinking about it and I'm sitting at my desk with a hot cup of coffee in hand. However that's just me and my stinky opinion on the other side different strokes, missions and needs. That I get.
Reiff and Honda.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
This used to be an option when ordering new 180/185s.
Dryer vent hose is a bad idea. Not fire proof. check out this video on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfExQ3mwBH8
NunavutPA-12
FRIEND
67.8N,115.1W CYCO Canada
I have a 1,000 watt Yamaha. It works very well and runs the Reiff heaters without any problem. I've not yet had any problem with it (in terms of the breather or otherwise), but then again I no longer fly when it's colder than -30.
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Joseph206
Registered User
Liberty, NY
I could never make those little propane bottles work in the cold.
I'm in need of an insulated cover and have been battling with the options. I do wish to travel with it so bulk and weight are both important. Kennon's are quality but appear large and heavy and are $$$$$. Bruce's seem good but again not light but less $$$$. Mac's say there's are lighter and thinner and even less $$. I was concerned with the Mac being too thin (3/4") and was glad to see your comment that even thin does well. Did you make yours or buy it and who from? FYI, I will be using Reiff.
Fine Line in Anchorage made mine and it's about 3/4" thick when fluffed up. They rate the insulation by weight and this one is half of their standard cover's insulation weight and more than I need for preheating. The Reiff's output is plenty as long as cold air isn't moving freely through the cowl. Insulation value isn't very important in that application. I really like the smaller packed size. I may go even thinner with my next one. Fine Line sews a compression stuff sack right to the cover. Remove the cover, stuff it in, pull the straps tight, and it's small enough to toss wherever I want. If I'm really tight on space? My wing covers each have sewn-on stuff sacks, too, so I can stow wing and tail covers in small packages and the engine cover separately.
Here's my Cessna's engine, wing, tail, and windscreen covers sloppily stuffed into the engine stuff sack. With care I could reduce the size. My full size cowl cover alone is a chore to stuff into a GI duffel bag that's twice as big.
Here's my Cessna's engine, wing, tail, and windscreen covers sloppily stuffed into the engine stuff sack. With care I could reduce the size. My full size cowl cover alone is a chore to stuff into a GI duffel bag that's twice as big.
Attachments
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BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
I haven't kept up with the latest in covers but these folks have treated my custom ideas in the past well: http://alaskawingcovers.com/CowlingCovers.html
Fabric flexibility is a concern and some materials aren't in deep cold. Their polyester has been for me. Maybe there's better manufacturer's and materials and we can learn together.
Gary
Fabric flexibility is a concern and some materials aren't in deep cold. Their polyester has been for me. Maybe there's better manufacturer's and materials and we can learn together.
Gary
Scooter7779h
PATRON
Anchorage, Alaska
Linda at AK Wing Covers very good to work with. So is Doug at Fine Line. I'm lucky as my covers came with plane I bought from SB.
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
I've been running my generator inside the cabin of the plane for preheating and ducting the exhaust outside, allowing the engine cooling fan to blow warm air into the cabin to defrost windows and warm radios. I installed a short piece of SCAT hose on the exhaust outlet of my Honda EU1000, the wire in the hose will actually thread in between the exhaust and the plastic housing and holds very tight. Then a longer piece of hose can be attached and along with the extension cord be routed out of the cabin. Works great.
NunavutPA-12
FRIEND
67.8N,115.1W CYCO Canada
Nifty idea. Makes me think about putting in a dedicated exhaust pipe through the side-wall and bringing the plug for the Reiff heaters through the firewall.
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
At one time I had thought about riveting a SCAT hose duct adapter to my generator's case around the exhaust outlet but never followed through. Now knowing the hose can be screwed into that hole makes me want to revisit the mod...great info! The SCAT hose's heated air and exhaust could be used to thaw stuff in a small space and placed next to my Bravo snowmachine engine for work or just to get it to start easier in the cold. Moving right along.....
Gary
Gary
My 180 has oil dilution, but it won't much change the damage of a cold start - just makes it easier to power up dissimilar metals and get them moving against each other. I've never used it, as preheating makes sense.
Used the Honda EU1000 and Reiff on cylinders, oil cooler and pan, with only cowling plugs (no engine cover) in -20F temps this week - no problems.
Did have to choke the Honda about 30% to keep it running smoothly in those temps. Dense air.
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mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
I met him briefly before he passed. Had a guy from work that lived nearby Sam that took him a fish or some game to go with his garden produce. We had tea and he talked about flying his L-5 Stinson and winter camping...that's where first I got the heads up about an instant camp in the cold. Then Joe Mattie another trapper told me he carried one too so the idea stuck. Both of them surely outdid me when it came to going and doing in winter. Different class of folks back then than now.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Sam-White-Alaskan-Legendary-Wildlife/dp/1575101300
Gary[/QUOTE]
Gary,
All true, of course. But for the audience here, it's important to note that Joe Mattie flys a Cessna 206 on his winter adventures.....A little more space and load carrying capability than the average Cub. :lol:
MTV
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
Denny,
The primary reason those folks drained the oil at night was that most if not all those engines were radials, with remote oil tanks.....so most of the oil was in fact not in the engine at any given time. And, the tanks were really hard variable to impossible to heat while heating the engine. Look at a Beaver sometime.....the oil tank is between the pilot and co-pilot's knees.
And, as Johnny noted, oil dilution works fine if you don't have to pay for engine overhauls......
MTV
Ammo can works great—first one I made was like pic-second one I made I only used one hole and align xgk stove right under hole. Anywhere from 20-30min per side depending on OAT—longest I’ve needed to preheat is close to 1.5hrs but it was -22 OAT
Undo engine cover and unlatch all cowling latches-then resecure two front bungees on engine cover (I undo all hatches prior to so when I switch sides it’s a quick process—I need to unlatch cowling so I can fit hose in)
Stuff scat hose into rear opening on side of engine
place heater where you can stick other end of scat hose to ammo can-ensure stove is centered under the hole of ammo can
i also ensure other side of rear engine cowl gets stuffed w excess engine cover material so heat doesn’t leak out.
Once im done I usually give it about 20 minutes minimum to sort of equalize-then fire up engine.
The gennys I’ve used will shut themselves off if you don’t mod it or stick the genny in something like a cardboard box with venting cut outs (which then it will work great)—plus they don’t run on 100ll but the xgk does and if you don’t have a reiff and just have an oil pan heater (like me) the ammo can is way faster.
And you can heat water on the ammo can or stove—genny not so much....it usually takes me awhile to get things moving when if I need preheat ie preheating isn’t what slows my roll....
Undo engine cover and unlatch all cowling latches-then resecure two front bungees on engine cover (I undo all hatches prior to so when I switch sides it’s a quick process—I need to unlatch cowling so I can fit hose in)
Stuff scat hose into rear opening on side of engine
place heater where you can stick other end of scat hose to ammo can-ensure stove is centered under the hole of ammo can
i also ensure other side of rear engine cowl gets stuffed w excess engine cover material so heat doesn’t leak out.
Once im done I usually give it about 20 minutes minimum to sort of equalize-then fire up engine.
The gennys I’ve used will shut themselves off if you don’t mod it or stick the genny in something like a cardboard box with venting cut outs (which then it will work great)—plus they don’t run on 100ll but the xgk does and if you don’t have a reiff and just have an oil pan heater (like me) the ammo can is way faster.
And you can heat water on the ammo can or stove—genny not so much....it usually takes me awhile to get things moving when if I need preheat ie preheating isn’t what slows my roll....
With my Reiff system I can easily get two preheats on a single tank of fuel. I could probably get three.
My inverter generator doesn't like 100LL. In fact none of my Honda equipment does. My older 3600 rpm generators run fine on avgas.
NunavutPA-12
FRIEND
67.8N,115.1W CYCO Canada
I fill the Yamaha 1000 with mogas before I leave, then it's good for a couple of (Reiff) pre-heats. If I need more, a little of the 50/50 mogas/100LL mix from the wing tank drain or gascolator will do the trick. Many folks run 100LL in these little generators, some without problems, some with. 50/50 seems fine.
