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Thread: Hangar floor coating

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    Scouter's Avatar
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    Hangar floor coating

    What is the best? Looking at several mfgs Most are 2 part epoxy. Air Tech is the big advertiser in TAP


    Jim

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    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouter View Post
    What is the best? Looking at several mfgs Most are 2 part epoxy. Air Tech is the big advertiser in TAP


    Jim
    Something with texture or you'll bust your butt

    Glenn
    Last edited by cubdriver2; 01-05-2017 at 10:26 PM.
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

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    Ruffair's Avatar
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    Polishing vs epoxy paint. ?

    Lots of Big Box stores have polished.

    Polished has a bunch of stain options too.

    Thanks for the OP Jim. I been thinking same thing.

    Kem
    "...We're fast enough to get there, But slow enough to see..."
    Fron the song "Barometer Soup". By Jimmy Buffett

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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    I liked the comment the one mechanic made that he worked out of kings hanger in naknek for a year before he realized it was a concrete floor, it
    was so dirty and falling apart

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    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffair View Post
    Polishing vs epoxy paint. ?

    Lots of Big Box stores have polished.

    Polished has a bunch of stain options too.

    Thanks for the OP Jim. I been thinking same thing.

    Kem
    Polished is great till it gets wet.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

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    Scouter's Avatar
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    I was in a hangar last weekend in Hampton NH. This is an epoxy 2 part. It was shiny but not too slippery. Owner said about $1 per sq ft do it yourself. Was very nice
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    There is a local guy who diamond grinds and then polishes concrete for the big box stores. It is prob smoother and shines more than paint. Not sure on cost yet
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    Then there is exposed aggregate concrete polished. They are doing countertops in this area with this process. Big $$$$ really nice
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    There is a local ice cream shop that stained the concrete. Looks like the dog threw up on it. No pic of that.

    Will post my final result.

    jim

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    40m's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouter View Post
    What is the best? Looking at several mfgs Most are 2 part epoxy. Air Tech is the big advertiser in TAP


    Jim
    Jim,
    All of our compressor stations floors have a two part epoxy sprayed on then rolled. Simple application extremely durable. If rolled grit can be applied. I will reach out to our contractor for a preferred brand.

    From Genesis: "And God promised men that good and obedient wives would be
    found in all corners of the earth."

    Then he made the earth round... and He laughed and laughed and laughed!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Polished is great till it gets wet.

    Glenn
    Actually it's not slick when wet, we use it in industrial applications often. Going to do it in my new hanger, really easy to keep clean and it looks great for about $3.00 a sf.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 01-06-2017 at 07:30 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffair View Post
    Polishing vs epoxy paint. ?

    Lots of Big Box stores have polished.

    Polished has a bunch of stain options too.

    Thanks for the OP Jim. I been thinking same thing.

    Kem
    Polished and or stained will breathe and if you have a moisture problem under a slab and paint it it can bubble and fail.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouter View Post
    What is the best? Looking at several mfgs Most are 2 part epoxy. Air Tech is the big advertiser in TAP


    Jim
    Lots of Air Tech floors at my airport and they do well except in high sub surface moisture areas. You have to properly clean and etch before application. Also you need to wear a GOOD respirator when putting it down and have ventilation.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 01-06-2017 at 07:33 AM.
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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    Polished and or stained will breathe and if you have a moisture problem under a slab and paint it it can bubble and fail.
    What if the moisture is from condensation?
    N1PA

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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    What if the moisture is from condensation?
    If you have moisture condensing ON the floor it is often likely passing through the slab from moisture below. This is a symptom of not having an effective vapor barrier under the slab. You can do a vapor pressure test to see if your condition is too severe. We see this often on glue down tile floors and it will cause the glue to bubble up between the tiles or on sheet vinyl can bubble the surface.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 01-06-2017 at 07:52 AM.
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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    If you have moisture condensing ON the floor it is often likely passing through the slab from moisture below.
    While this is a possibility, it only occurs on high humidity days. Also, two 14 foot walls of my hangar are poured concrete as the hangar is built into the side of a hill.
    N1PA

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    Kirby
    the old standby test for moisture in slab is tape down a sheet of plastic and watch for moisture?
    jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    Actually it's not slick when wet, we use it in industrial applications often. Going to do it in my new hanger, really easy to keep clean and it looks great for about $3.00 a sf.
    Will polished concrete stain if oil drips on it?

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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouter View Post
    Kirby
    the old standby test for moisture in slab is tape down a sheet of plastic and watch for moisture?
    jim
    This is why I mentioned the wet floor. In some areas I've had carpet on the floor when the high humidity wets the floor. Then when I move the carpet the floor is dry where the carpet was located. I've been suspecting the stable temperature of the large mass of concrete which is tucked into the hill causing condensation of the humid air.
    N1PA

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjohnson View Post
    Will polished concrete stain if oil drips on it?
    Not as easily as unpolished. The polishing densifies the surface and with a sealer over it the stain resistance is excellent. That's what I'm doing and if you want a shine a couple coats of a liquid Wax and you're stylen!
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouter View Post
    Kirby
    the old standby test for moisture in slab is tape down a sheet of plastic and watch for moisture?
    jim
    Yep, leave it down for several days to a week. The vapor pressure test does about the same thing but gives a numeric value, typically over 3 pounds and you're in trouble for glue down products that don't breathe. If you see much moisture, don't do no-breatheable products.

    I used to rent space in a hanger with an epoxy floor that was over a floor that sweated bad and it looked terrible with failing coating coming off...

    I have a client with a problem floor. 40 year old building that had 9x9 (yep asbestos) tile and mastic that they abated and removed (I recommended tiling over it as it was not fryable) to install new 12x12 VCT on it oozed glue at every joint and smelled damp. Tested moisture pressure after the install and it was 10, the glue was guaranteed to 3. The old floor and heavy mastic was a great vapor barrier, now they have to run a dehumidifier 24/7!
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 01-06-2017 at 09:58 AM.
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    I have mine polished, oil does not penetrate or stain it. Jet fuel does. Far better than paint, mine has aggregate showing, makes it hard to find a screw or washer when you drop them!

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    I'm going with spray on polyurea from SPI in Anchorage. High solids content, can build up thickness, is flexible and resists cracking due to expansion/contraction from temperature variation. Will probably go with the chemical resistant version. I'd like to find a surface grinder of some sort to fix/grind imperfections on the new slab.. Any ideas?


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    40m's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40m View Post
    Jim,
    All of our compressor stations floors have a two part epoxy sprayed on then rolled. Simple application extremely durable. If rolled grit can be applied. I will reach out to our contractor for a preferred brand.
    Jim,
    One recommendation is Sherman Williams 8100.
    I will talk to you tomorrow about particulars. Simple process.

    From Genesis: "And God promised men that good and obedient wives would be
    found in all corners of the earth."

    Then he made the earth round... and He laughed and laughed and laughed!

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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I always wanted to paint my hanger floor but years and years of oil drips etc. and 5200 square feet I can't justify the cost.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

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    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I am not a fan of grit. It hurts when you have to get on your knees and it makes it MUCH harder to clean the floor. If you live in a high humidity area and expect to have a wet floor often, maybe. But I'll take a couple of days of slick floor a year Vs pain every time you put your hand down, or a knee, or have to lay on the floor to clean the fuselage etc.
    YMMV, my personal opinion, and all that. But I recommend you try it before you buy it.
    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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    Agreed - I have done several hangars with a good commercial grade two part epoxy. It's glossy, but not slippery and tends to loose its shine over about 10 years use. I tried adding grit for the section in front of the nose wheel for the power tow, but found that is not really necessary. On smooth epoxy, power tow can spin its wheel, but nothing a little weight doesn't sort out.

    On a new floor - good wash with an acid etch, followed by a good power sweep. I rented, and have now purchased a Stihl 24" power broom - does a good job of brushing the water and fine particulates away after the acid wash / etch. Pressure washers don't work, you keep getting areas with fine dust remaining. Wait for it to dry properly and then paint with a roller. You can control the thickness by using different roller, don't skimp on the quality - nothing worse than having one fall apart while you have a few gallons mixed. 4G will do about 2,000 ft2 - you might look like you don't have enough after the first gallon, but an amazing amount of epoxy gets left behind in the tray, tin, brush etc. After 1/2 to 3/4 you will know whether you are ahead or behind and its quite easy to stretch the remaining quantity to finish by rolling a bit harder / thinner.

    I did one floor that had been covered in oil stains, I washed 2 or 3 times with a degreaser then the acid wash then epoxy. It all worked out fine, still good after 10 years.

    The surface prep is 2 or 3 times more work than the painting.

    Aerodon

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    I have a 32' x 60' X16' high enclosed metal hangar with concreted floor. Roof is insulated with 1" sheet insulation. Under certain temp and humidity conditions, all metal parts in the hangar become soaked with moisture. Even the engine inside the cowling. Floor gets wet as well.Drives me nuts.

    Will coating the floor with epoxy help this situation? I've been told that the only solution is a de humidifier which is essentially an AC unit.

    Gary

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Ward View Post
    I have a 32' x 60' X16' high enclosed metal hangar with concreted floor. Roof is insulated with 1" sheet insulation. Under certain temp and humidity conditions, all metal parts in the hangar become soaked with moisture. Even the engine inside the cowling. Floor gets wet as well.Drives me nuts.

    Will coating the floor with epoxy help this situation? I've been told that the only solution is a de humidifier which is essentially an AC unit.

    Gary
    Unfortunately, I don't know of any currently available topical coating that will stop moisture transfer. Even Air-Tech requires essentially no vapor pressure http://www.airtechcoatings.com/pdfs/...structions.pdf

    You might try a portable dehumidifier, the home stores carry some decent units that are in the $200 range that you can pipe to a drain, if your hanger isn't too large and seals up decent it ought to help, even if it took two it would be better than the rain forest you describe. I used to use one in my shop (900sf with 10 ft side walls and open ceiling) before I installed AC and it only ran intermittent and kept tools from tarnishing.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 01-07-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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    In the summer when I put some ice in a glass and fill it with water, the outside of my glass becomes soaked with moisture too. That warm day has a dew point value that is warmer than the outside of the glass. Its the same situation with Stuff in the hangar. During the night everything got cold soaked. Then the sun comes out and it warms up and the air in the hanger. The air warms faster than the cold soaked engine. The dew point rises and when its higher than the cold soaked engine it behaves just like my glass of water.

    The fixes that I can think of include heating the hangar, keeping the engine warm with something like a gun cabinet heater, using a silica bead dehumidifier, dehumidifying the entire hangar

  28. #28
    irishfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I always wanted to paint my hanger floor but years and years of oil drips etc. and 5200 square feet I can't justify the cost.
    Mine's for working in as well, not for sitting in a chair admiring it. Besides, the dust helps absorb the oil !

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    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Mine is carpeted over the dirt. If your going fishing just lift a corner up for the worm store

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Ward View Post
    I have a 32' x 60' X16' high enclosed metal hangar with concreted floor. Roof is insulated with 1" sheet insulation. Under certain temp and humidity conditions, all metal parts in the hangar become soaked with moisture. Even the engine inside the cowling. Floor gets wet as well.Drives me nuts.

    Will coating the floor with epoxy help this situation? I've been told that the only solution is a de humidifier which is essentially an AC unit.

    Gary
    Epoxy coating the floor will not prevent the condensation problem you have described.

    To fix the problem you need to use a dehumidifier sized for the volume of your hangar. Adding a ceiling fan or two to circulate the air will help the dehumidifier be more effective.
    Speedo

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    I did my 1500 square foot hangar when it was brand new with an off the shelf, locally available 2 part epoxy floor paint. I did it alone and without help or any previous knowledge. Washed the floor, did a muratic acid etch, rinsed the acid wash, allowed to dry and applied the epoxy. 12-15 years later it is doing great, it looks good and chicks dig it.

    I think it cost me in the range of $300-400.

    Only draw backs:
    +the walk way where I drag the cub in with a tail dragger dragger, was slippery with snow on my feet and the floor. I redid a 3' wide walk way from the bi-fold door to the back wall where I walk when i pull it in, in this walk way I did it in a contrasting color with some rough course in it, as I recall it was a paint store available additive which was just ground walnut shells. It worked great! yes the oil drips in that segment are a bit harder to clean up, but not a big deal.
    +it shows the dirt and proves I don't sweep as often as I should, it also shows poly-brush drips nicely.
    + I have a bit of flaking of from the concrete, like it was power screed too much, or too much calcium or something in the mix, anyway when it flakes off it obviously takes the epoxy coat with it, in the big picture no big deal.


    Definitely wear a very good respirator! Buy several heavy duty paint rollers, commercial grade, I went through way too many cheap ones as the mixture is quite thick even at 80 degrees. A floor squeegee was useful as well.

    You won't regret it, easy to do yourself.Click image for larger version. 

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  32. #32
    Steve's Aircraft (Brian)'s Avatar
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    Our hanger floor is covered with 40 years worth of spilled oil, poly fiber coatings and paint...

    Brian
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  33. #33
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve's Aircraft (Brian) View Post
    Our hanger floor is covered with 40 years worth of spilled oil, poly fiber coatings and paint...

    Brian
    Mine also

  34. #34
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    U-Coat-It. Epoxy paint, lots of options. Did my shop 8 years ago and still looks good

  35. #35
    Ruffair's Avatar
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    Was helping sweep out a hangar and was told this floor had been painted 30 years ago, and withstood years of working on round engine crop dusters.

    It's held up good !
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    "...We're fast enough to get there, But slow enough to see..."
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    Is that a Yak with a right hand rotation engine?

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    I have a 65X80 epoxied hanger. It is beautiful, and nothing looks better. However, is not worth the stress. You have to put carpet under the tires, any moisture beneath the concrete or too much calcium in the concrete and it peels up. Fuel will stain it and and dropping a tool results in unkind words being spoken when the new chip in the epoxy becomes evident. If you rent out space, or have a mechanic do the annual, they can cause more damage than you will get back in rent. Much like me, the hangar floor is starting to look better from a distance! I feel that grinding is the way to go. You can put a stain in the concrete when it is poured or add strain at the time it is ground if desired. it can be ground superficially or go deeper for a terrazzo look. It is less slippery than the epoxy, and will result in much less stress for you OCD types. Epoxy is gorgeous if you are just storing planes, but if you are doing any work on them, I would reconsider.
    Mark
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    Bill.Brine's Avatar
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    On Sunday I helped Cape Air guys clear the snow in front of their hangar at MVY. Hangar door open so I decided to walk inside the hangar while pushing the snowblower- bad idea as a bit of snow underfoot on top of the shiny epoxy floor was slicker than ice. If I was not holding onto the snowblower I'd be wearing a cast or a sling this morning.
    Side note. The hangar floor paint far out shined the ugly 402 paint. They fly some of the rattiest looking planes around.

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    I take note of what new box stores (Wally, Home Depot, etc) use on anew building. No epoxy, no tile, just a damn good (laser controlled nowadays) finish job, and the right sealer applied at the right time after the pour, to help the slab reach its full strength. Some grind and stain I think. My own slab in the hangar is au natural (?) And short of dropping a fire axe on the business end, dropped tools don't chip .
    My first one I finished myself (with just enough knowledge to be dangerous) and for whatever reason, 20 years later, a dropped penny would leave a divot. The one now, pro finished, is SO much better, I'd feel bad to coat it with anything. Just swept it, it's cleaner then the house.

  40. #40

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    This is the coating I may use.....do have the Graco A20 machine.....but will have to wait until this spring to purchase http://www.rhinoliningsindustrial.co...hardline/22/32


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