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PA-18 Float Fittings: Weld on vs Bolt on - Looking For Installed Pix...

AirPigz

Registered User
Warsaw, Indiana
I'm restoring a PA-18A-150 (N9460D) and it'll likely wind up on floats sometime in the future, possibly next summer. With the fuselage bare, now's the time to make some decisions about float fittings. Btw, planning to do the Wipline 2000# gross upgrade as well.

I was leaning toward weld-on until I considered what they might look like under the fabric when it's spending time on wheels. I know I can install the fabric nicely around the fitting, but it's still a pretty thick, clunky piece of metal, and you'll be looking at the tabs all the time. Seems like the bolt on fittings might be a better option (EDO or Wipline) since they can be removed when not on floats. Can care and attention-to-detail keep the fabric and the bolt holes looking good when the fittings are removed?

So... I wondered if some of you could share pix of weld-on and bolt-on floats fittings as installed on a Super Cub. That would really help figure out the visual part of the decision about which style fitting to choose. My google searches aren't finding close-up (installed) fittings pictures.


I realize most people might not care so much about how the fittings look, but since the airplane is likely to spend the vast majority of its time on wheels, it's an issue to me.

9460D also has the aluminum lower fuselage panels which I assume would make installing the bolt on fitting easier, but maybe it brings other issues up as well?

Info and pix would be greatly appreciated...

Martt
N9460D
Indiana
 
It will look worse after you take the bolt on fittings off. Opinion

Glenn

That's where some pictures would help... plus, I'm wondering if there are some simple things that can be done to keep it looking nice after they are removed, like a trim plate that covers the fabric from the longeron up.
 
Maybe it is just me but I never notice them one way or the other unless I think about it. I think you would have to cut the metal belly section and trim plate would have to wrap around the side and bottom, hold on tabs for trim plate would have to be set wider than bolt on fitting. Now you have issue to trim plate rubbing fabric. It can be done but I would just go with weld on.
DENNY
 
Maybe it is just me but I never notice them one way or the other unless I think about it. I think you would have to cut the metal belly section and trim plate would have to wrap around the side and bottom, hold on tabs for trim plate would have to be set wider than bolt on fitting. Now you have issue to trim plate rubbing fabric. It can be done but I would just go with weld on.
DENNY

Thanx for the feedback.

The J-3 that I fly and maintain for a local flying club has bolt-on fittings that are left on all the time. They aren't color-matched but they don't look bad... but now I'm wondering if I did color-matched bolt on fittings on the Super Cub and left them on all the time if that wouldn't look better than the weld on ones under the fabric.

Again, pictures will be very helpful if anyone has some.

Winona Lake Boat House 9-17-16.jpg

Martt
N9460D
 

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http://www.airframesalaska.com/PA-18-Super-Cub-Float-Fittings-p/af59078-1.htm

4ccf46580aa5587ab61893e2bd1f0075.jpg
 
This photo is one of mine with the bolt on's but I will be switching to welded someday.
I have welded fittings on the project that is nearing completion and they are fine. They don't have maintenance issues that I have seen on bolted. If they get loose or over tightened on the bolts then tube damage can occur. Just less stuff to worry about.
 

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This photo is one of mine with the bolt on's but I will be switching to welded someday.
I have welded fittings on the project that is nearing completion and they are fine. They don't have maintenance issues that I have seen on bolted. If they get loose or over tightened on the bolts then tube damage can occur. Just less stuff to worry about.

Thanx for the pic and info...great looking Super Cub!

Martt
N9460D
 
An "A" model with a metal belly is telling me that there is a possibility that there are some welded on tabs which at some time held on a belly tank. If this is so then you may have difficulty fitting a bolt on float fitting due to the strap interference. Been there done that.

My opinion is that you are less likely to notice the weld on fittings than the bolt on with the floats removed. And you are unlikely ever to remove the bolt on fittings just for the winter. It only takes a little over an hour to change from floats to wheels. If you take the time to remove the fitting you can add up to two hours to the job. You do realize that you will need to remove interior panels (or at least bend them out of the way) to get at some of the fitting bolts?
 
Here is a bolt on and weld on on covered airplanes I have in the shop right now if you need other pictures.
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I would go weld on especially after looking at Steve's photos I have bolt on on my 11 that stay there always not sure about 18 fittings but I have split tubing pieces that were a pita to install when installing the fittings after recover. don't forget to weld on the tabs for the water rudder pulleys also or you have to make some slices in the fabric for those tabs as well.
 
It really helps to see some actual pix, thank you very much. Do you know for sure which brand of weld-ons those are in the pic?

I admit that the weld-on does look pretty clean overall. I'll reconsider welding, but now will look at the different fittings available to see if there's a noticeable visual difference between them.

I realized last night that I could do some fill (SuperFil) at the longeron welds to feather that transition down smoother. That would be simple to do, have no impact on the metal, and make that uneven bulgy spot almost disappear.

Martt
N9460D

Here is a bolt on and weld on on covered airplanes I have in the shop right now if you need other pictures.
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I would go weld on especially after looking at Steve's photos I have bolt on on my 11 that stay there always not sure about 18 fittings but I have split tubing pieces that were a pita to install when installing the fittings after recover. don't forget to weld on the tabs for the water rudder pulleys also or you have to make some slices in the fabric for those tabs as well.

I'm up to speed on the water rudder pulley tabs... that's in the works :)

Martt
N9460D
 
If you've got it uncovered, use weld on fittings. To me, bolt on fittings look like an afterthought, and removing them is a PITA, and it'll look worse with the bolt one removed.

MTV
 
I put weld on fittings on mine,, never will be on floats, at least by me, but I figured it opens up more prospective buyers if they are already welded on. Not that its for sale, but there is a shelf life on everything....
 
Weld in the float fittings. You won't even notice they are there. Like Steve said the next owner may want them if you don't use them.








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Ok, between the pictures here, and some emailed to me, I'm back to thinking weld-on is the way to go. I do think a little detailed filling with SuperFil could really make an improvement in the way that edge transition looks, so that would be my plan. Thanx to all for input.

I've gotten feedback that the Airframes Alaska fittings fit a little better/look a little cleaner... anyone disagree with that?

Martt
N9460D
 
Another reason to use weld on and leave them on is that if you ever go on skis they make an excellent place for the rear safety cable to attach to the fuselage.
 
Yup Airframes weld on fittings. Bolt ons are an after thought and potential headache. Corrosion, crushed longerons, loose fittings resulting in fabric damage, PITA to install/remove, probly a drag penalty, lower gas mileage in your car, the list goes on.....
 
Hey Steve,
The top one is for the EDO fittings, how does the bottom one attach to the floats? Doesn't look like the top fitting - ie one bolt thru the support.

Thanks
Dave
 
Belly tank strap can go to the bolt on the rear fitting if it interferes.

Didn't Atlee have some weld ons at one point that were good? Maybe that changed. I had bolt on but had ordered the new frame with weld ons. To get the bolt on ones tight you run a risk of putting marks in the longerons.

And I realize Pete is experienced, but an hour to pull off the bolt ons????? Maybe, if the interior is out, then you need to patch the holes fro the u-bolts. When going back on, it takes a while and is a pain because the U-bolts are more of a V, so you have to fiddle to get them into the fitting.

Eaton, shelf life? You feeling old, or are you looking for a faster bird?
 
Tango, the one hour is only to change between floats and wheels. It doesn't include removing the bolt on fittings. Like you said that can take quite a while depending on lots of factors.
 
Does anyone have knowledge when comparing Atlee vs airframes weld on fittings?


Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org
 
Airframes fit the joggle in the longeron at that station, Atlee Dodge fittings are straight and require splitting the difference in gap, clamping in place and welding filling a slight gap.
 
I can’t believe no one mentioned the “weight” factor. Just saying.
weld on and don’t look back;)
 
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