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Linking Garmin 795 to ELT

D

DENNY

SPONSOR
I am putting in my new ACK-04 ELT and am going to link it to my garmin 795. I have the portable mount that came with the unit mounted in the plane. It has as 12v cigarette adaptor and mini usb on cable. Garmin makes the same mount with just bare wires at end of the cable.

My question is, are all the same wires (found in the bare wire mount) in the mount that came with the unit?

If so where would I split the covering to access what I need to link to the ELT and my EI fuel flow while I am at it?

Do I need to get a mini usb cable and patch in there?

Thanks
DENNY
 
No, not on the one that I cut open.

I have cut open a Garmin cable like that before and it only had the wires for power/ground and the USB. Don't recall for which Garmin GPS it was, but recommend buying the cable with the bare wires on it.
 
Or go over to Northern Lights Avionics and either ask them or better yet, have them do the job for you.

MTV
 
DENNY said:
I am putting in my new ACK-04 ELT and am going to link it to my garmin 795. I have the portable mount that came with the unit mounted in the plane. It has as 12v cigarette adaptor and mini usb on cable. Garmin makes the same mount with just bare wires at end of the cable.

My question is, are all the same wires (found in the bare wire mount) in the mount that came with the unit?

If so where would I split the covering to access what I need to link to the ELT and my EI fuel flow while I am at it?

Do I need to get a mini usb cable and patch in there?

Thanks
DENNY
Click to expand...

The USB connector is for an XM unit and the cables with the cigarette lighter plug do not have the data lines in them. You will need the 'Bare Wire' cable that Garmin sells. There are two channels of data available from a 795/796': TX 1 (blue)/RX 1 (yellow) and TX2 (orange)/RX 2 (purple). You can use either channel but you only need the output line (TX 1 or 2). Connect this to pin 4 on the DIN connector on the E-04. You'll need to check the programming on the 795 and on the E-04 and do the test with the LED as shown in the E-04 manual. Let me know if you have any questions.

Web
 
DENNY said:
My question is, are all the same wires (found in the bare wire mount) in the mount that came with the unit?

If so where would I split the covering to access what I need to link to the ELT and my EI fuel flow while I am at it?

Do I need to get a mini usb cable and patch in there?

Thanks
DENNY
Click to expand...

Pete D said:
No, not on the one that I cut open.

I have cut open a Garmin cable like that before and it only had the wires for power/ground and the USB. Don't recall for which Garmin GPS it was, but recommend buying the cable with the bare wires on it.
Click to expand...
Garmin told me that I needed to buy the proper cable from them for my 695 as the one which comes with the GPS doesn't have the data wires.
 
Web
where did you find the 300 ohm resistor for the gps signal test? I checked radio shack online they only had 330 ohm. It has been fun trying to figure out how to wire everything up and fit it in my dash. I pulled compass out of dash (have SIRS on windscreen) took a bit to get the nuts off, and made a lot more work for myself than needed as usual. Than made a square blank plate to cover dash hole and cut rectangle hole for remote panel indicator, it will fit and sit flush. I might make a tester mount like Darrel Starr did be nice to know all is working on the long trips.
DENNY
 
DENNY said:
Web
where did you find the 300 ohm resistor for the gps signal test? I checked radio shack online they only had 330 ohm. It has been fun trying to figure out how to wire everything up and fit it in my dash. I pulled compass out of dash (have SIRS on windscreen) took a bit to get the nuts off, and made a lot more work for myself than needed as usual. Than made a square blank plate to cover dash hole and cut rectangle hole for remote panel indicator, it will fit and sit flush. I might make a tester mount like Darrel Starr did be nice to know all is working on the long trips.
DENNY
Click to expand...

330 is close enough. Or you can use two 600 ohm resistor in parallel to equal 300 ohms. It's just protection for the LED as they operate at two volts or less. The test is a one time deal for use on setup. If your programming changes, you have some damage of some sort or someone's been finger pokin'.

Web
 
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