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N9460D 'A' model Super Cub

AirPigz

Registered User
Warsaw, Indiana
First, I wondered if anyone has some weld-on float fittings available they would like to sell... fuselage will be blasted soon and want to get those on before long.

This is my first post here and will hopefully cover my 6 month full-time restoration of N9460D, a 1959 PA-18A. I'm In northern Indiana and I'm doing the work for a brother of mine out in California.

I wondered if I could get some feedback from some members here: current plan is to retain the flat top fuselage that this A model was built with, partly to keep the vintage heritage alive with this airframe, and partly because the aluminum hatch door on the fuselage top is in such great condition.

I was curious to see how people feel about the flat top fuse and that hatch, which opens right down into the baggage area. Do you like it's look and/or its unique nature... or do you hate everything about it?

Would appreciate some feedback - thanx!

Martt Clupper
AirPigz
Indiana

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Might work well for in-law flights...

just add ejection seat below!:wink:


In talking to others that have flown the flat tops, they all say the planes are faster, and even a bit lighter. Folks really like the rear seat and flat floor set up.

The down sides I can see with the hatch would be weight, and if you are in rain and it leaks, your stuff will be wet.
 
Atlee Dodge has the float fittings and the STC

I prefer the A model for all of the reasons mentioned. ( some bias due to currently owning two)

Inspect the hatch area tubing carefully during your inspection as they are notorious for moisture getting into the tubing through the 30+ riv-nuts under the hatch. The moisture will find its way into the lower aft supports and diagonal bracing of the structure corroding out the inside at the lower 2 inches or so . I usually get rid of the hatch's and replace all of the tubing that had the holes drilled for riv-nuts. I have seen these holes welded shut before but they will leave several ugly "warts" showing through the fabric.

To eliminate the hatch and the aluminum frame you will need to add bracing for the large "bay". It is a structural modification and field approvals are extremely hard to get. In the days of simple field approvals you would find X bracing or a single diagonal tube.

The only current option that I have found is to use an old STC originated by Flanagan that replaced the hatch and added Plexiglas for the aft area similar to the L21. I did not want the weight of the glass and was able to get a field approved exception to the STC to only use the structural reinforcement part and cover with fabric. Cub Crafters owns the STC.

I have pdf copies of the modifications drawings for you to review but you would have to work with CC for the approvals. (I had to make the copies and sent them to Vera at CC as they had lost their originals. )
 
Thanx for the input. I've seen several sources for float fittings, just thought I might find someone with a set and looking to sell them.

The aluminum hatch and the tubes with rivnuts are in crazy good condition, so the plan had been to install the hatch going forward. The airframe only has 2000 hours TT and the fuselage looks like it's about 5 years old even tho I'm sure it's the original 59 fuse. This great overall condition is another reason we're thinking of sticking with the original configuration... plus, I could see having access to the baggage from above being handy once or twice in the next 20 years : )
 
The aluminum hatch and the tubes with rivnuts are in crazy good condition, so the plan had been to install the hatch going forward. The airframe only has 2000 hours TT and the fuselage looks like it's about 5 years old even tho I'm sure it's the original 59 fuse. This great overall condition is another reason we're thinking of sticking with the original configuration... plus, I could see having access to the baggage from above being handy once or twice in the next 20 years : )[/QUOTE]

That's great. It must have never been a sprayer; or has lived in a hangar most of its life.
I would still do a "punch test" on the lower tubing even though the outside looks good. (near the flap cable pulleys).

Good luck with the project.
 
Thank you for the input and feedback so far, I appreciate it. I'm sure enjoying the project immensely and I look forward to more input from all the experience found here.

Here's a pic of the fuselage on a simple wooden rotisserie I built. My workspace is in a loft space in a large hangar... the nose pivot is attached to the outer wall, which makes it all very solid.

Martt Clupper
AirPigz
Indiana

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Martt,
Leave it ag. You don't see many like that any more.
My Dad bought a new 1954 A model which they sprayed with,but after the first year they removed the tank behind the seat and replaced it with a 90 gal Sorenson belly tank. They did not like the thought of a crash with that full tank behind your back.
Are those license stickers on the tail for South Dakota? It may have been close to where I live at one time.
Piper Pete
 
I like it. And can personally verify that it's much easier to load a large, heavy Kelty packframe through the hatch than through the door and over the seat.

Thanks. cubscout
 
I wondered if anyone has the 4 seat springs (about 20" long) that go in the back of the front seat. I have all the springs for the rear seat, and don't need the ones for the front seat bottom since I'm gonna move the battery there, but I think I'd like to have the springs in the back of that front seat.

Please let me know if you have some to sell - thanx!

Btw, just got back from Lock Haven and the 3-day workshop with Clyde Smith (The Cub Doctor) - what a fantastic experience! I maintain a club operated J-3 that will soon need some aft fuselage attention, and then I'm restoring this Super Cub, so the info, help, and encouragement from Clyde was just awesome. I highly recommend Clyde and his Cub Restoration Services operation.
 
I wondered if anyone has the 4 seat springs (about 20" long) that go in the back of the front seat. I have all the springs for the rear seat, and don't need the ones for the front seat bottom since I'm gonna move the battery there, but I think I'd like to have the springs in the back of that front seat.

Please let me know if you have some to sell - thanx!

Btw, just got back from Lock Haven and the 3-day workshop with Clyde Smith (The Cub Doctor) - what a fantastic experience! I maintain a club operated J-3 that will soon need some aft fuselage attention, and then I'm restoring this Super Cub, so the info, help, and encouragement from Clyde was just awesome. I highly recommend Clyde and his Cub Restoration Services operation.

I got some, I took them out of my seats. Covered the back and bottom of the front seat with fabric.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would drool over a fully restored Ag cub with spray system installed. If done correctly, it would win awards.
 
I would drool over a fully restored Ag cub with spray system installed. If done correctly, it would win awards.

The plan is to retain much of the basic look that an A model has, but many of the ag oriented details will be removed. I agree tho that a full ag set up would be cool to see.
 
Don't fall off of the loft when working up there... That scares me just looking at it....
 
Don't fall off of the loft when working up there... That scares me just looking at it....

I admit I'm a little weird... I like having that edge there : )

Won't be there much longer tho as a full wall will be in place before long.
 
Here's how the fuselage looks currently, essentially ready for sandblasting. I've just got a few ag tabs to remove first, and a few small alterations to get figured out and on hand up before I lower it down and have it blasted.

Also, a pic of the stainless firewall and flange that I helped Clyde Smith build for this airplane (right there in Lock Haven!) yesterday after the workshop ended in Sunday. I loaded it up and headed back to Indiana right after it was finished.

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best to send it to sand blaster FIRST before investing any time in it...

very sad when half the tubes turn out to be rusted from inside and blast through at blaster... and you end up having to fix them too, when you should have bailed and bought a new one... been there done that ONCE......
 
best to send it to sand blaster FIRST before investing any time in it...

very sad when half the tubes turn out to be rusted from inside and blast through at blaster... and you end up having to fix them too, when you should have bailed and bought a new one... been there done that ONCE......

Understood, and I agree, but this fuselage is in amazingly good condition... looks about 15 years old. I haven't found the first spot to be concerned with yet.
 
Here's how the fuselage looks currently, essentially ready for sandblasting. I've just got a few ag tabs to remove first, and a few small alterations to get figured out and on hand up before I lower it down and have it blasted.




R

Just curious, does it happen to have the "aluminized" coating on the tubing? THis could explain the good condition.
If so then you could loose it in blasting.
it will look like orange peel finish on the tubes.
 
Just curious, does it happen to have the "aluminized" coating on the tubing? THis could explain the good condition.
If so then you could loose it in blasting.
it will look like orange peel finish on the tubes.

No aluminized coating, just a grayish paint with again, essentially no signs of rust.

Here's a close up pic of the two flap pulleys on left side behind the baggage area... you can see the tubing is in great shape. All of the fuselage looks like this.

The pulley's and the flap cables have since been removed, cleaned, and inspected - they now literally look like new. The cables had the expected amount of dust and dirt on them, plus some overspray paint from the black put on the inside walls of the baggage area, but after a detailed cleaning, the cable condition is perfect.

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Martt
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Our A model (9448D) was in good shape also. Just some corrosion under the battery. We retained the flat back but got rid of the hopper door. We just did the rebuild 3 years ago so let me know if I can answer any questions. Brett
 
Our A model (9448D) was in good shape also. Just some corrosion under the battery. We retained the flat back but got rid of the hopper door. We just did the rebuild 3 years ago so let me know if I can answer any questions. Brett

Thanx for the info Brett, good to know yours was in great shape too. I might have questions : )

9460D is in Indiana with me for the rebuild, but it will be living in Lake County once it's done, maybe not far from you?

Martt
N9460D
 
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