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Giving a J-3 the back country treatment

This 90 hp J3 went everywhere we went in our Super Cubs and more. It made a great bar hopper just a PITA to go anywhere with only a 12 gallon nose tank. Tom was a good sport and was his tanker.
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The Ellis Cub I am familiar with has an 18 gallon tank in one wing and an 11 gallon tank in the other. No fuselage tank. Plenty of range, works fine.
 
It's actually Ellis Clark's. He moved out from Michigan a few years ago. Does Oregon have many off-tarmac landing areas? I'm going to be moving the plane up there fairly soon

Ellis is a good friend and I owned one of his J-3's a few years ago (NC92012). I'll bet your ship weighs in around 835 lbs. Unless it's been changed, your Cub has a C-90-12 with two 18 gallon wing tanks, a gel cell battery and a B&C 320 starter. You're already bumping into the MGL weight the way it's configured. Adding more stuff will further reduce your carrying capability. Enjoy it the way it is. Gary
 
Solo a lite C90 J3 or Pa11 with the right prop will beat almost anything off the ground. My 11 with a seaplane prop turned 2700 taking off and with me in the backseat was airborne in 125' no wind.Glenn

I thought Max RPM is 2475 for a C-90 powered 11.

MTV
 
2650 for 5 minutes but what it is is what it is for a 90, glenns is a 200. rpms is a 200s best friend.

Ummm, not according to the Type Certificate:

D. Model PA-11:
(1) A-65-3 of A-65-8
Engine Limits: All operations, 2300
r.p.m. (65 hp)
-1 lb. (-40)
(2) A-65-6 or A-65-9
Engine Limits: (same
as Item 311D(1))
+2 lb. (-40)
(3) A-65-14
Engine Limits: (same
as Item 311D(1))
+12 lb. (-40)
(4) C-85-8FJ or C-85-12 with Item 101,
3 or 8 propeller
Use actual weight and arm
Eligible on landplane only.
Engine Limits: All operations, 2575 r.p.m. (85 hp.)
Propeller Limits (with Item 101 propeller):
Static r.p.m. at maximum permissible throttle setting:
Not over 2350, not under 1950.
No additional tolerance permitted.
Diameter: Not over 72 inches, not under 70 inches.
NOTE: C-85-8FJ engine should be inst
alled in accordance with or equivalent
to Piper Dwg. No. SK-192. Because fuel valve is not accessible from rear
seat, rear cockpit must be placarded: "Solo flying from front seat only"
Page 13 of 21
A-691
Engines and Engine Accessories
- Fuel and Oil System (cont.)
311. D.
(5) C-90-8F (with propeller Item 5,

6, 7, 9, or 101)
Use actual weight change
(Bendix-Stromberg carburetor, Continental Part No. 530726 and engine

cooling baffles per Piper Dwg. 11258 Cha
nge E are required with this engine.)

Engine Limits: All operations, 2475 r.p.m. (90 hp)
Propeller Limits:
Static r.p.m. at maximum permissible throttle setting:
Not over 2350, not under 1950 for landplane and not under 2050 for seaplane.
No additional tolerance permitted.
Diameter: (with Item 5 propeller) not
over 71 inches, not under 69.5 inches.
(with Item 101 propeller) not
over 76 inches, not under 70 inches.

What am I missing?

MTV
 
Don't hold your breath, I turned blue year ago...

Two best mods besides 100LL are a good prop and 29" Airstreaks IMHO.

As far as a Catto goes...

From the J-3 / PA-11 TCDS

"101. Propeller - Wood (fixed or adjustable pitch)."

Sounds like a Catto is already named in the TCDS to me.
 
What diameter and pitch would you recommend for a propeller? Maybe a Mccauley 7141? I don't want to risk too high of an RPM, but want it biased more towards climb than cruise
 
Two best mods besides 100LL are a good prop and 29" Airstreaks IMHO.

As far as a Catto goes...

From the J-3 / PA-11 TCDS

"101. Propeller - Wood (fixed or adjustable pitch)."

Sounds like a Catto is already named in the TCDS to me.
If it was a certified prop I would tend to agree, but as I read it one who takes that approach might want to start practicing their best kicking and screaming in case of a challenge it could get ugly.
 
What diameter and pitch would you recommend for a propeller? Maybe a Mccauley 7141? I don't want to risk too high of an RPM, but want it biased more towards climb than cruise


I have a C85 Stroker, with that prop in 39 (or is it 37, I'll look when gets home). It's the minimum allowed in the TCDS.

Love it.

BTW, you put vg's, CC's elevator gap seals, and ABW's 29" airstreaks, along with flat prop, you go like stink.

:p
 
Just asked for a quote for a Catto prop with the nickel leading edge for my C90-12. I'll get back to you all when I get the price worked out
 
I have a 71 41 on my 11 with C 90. It seems to be a good setup. I don't think I'd want it any flatter with this engine.

MTV
 
If it was a certified prop I would tend to agree, but as I read it one who takes that approach might want to start practicing their best kicking and screaming in case of a challenge it could get ugly.

Perfectly legal, the TCDS just calls for a wood prop with length and rpm limits. Did it on a Stearman the same way sever years ago. Unfortunately the PA18 TCDS is not written that way.
 
Does anyone know when the 26" ABW Experimental tires are coming out? The website says June 2016, but that's clearly not happening
 
Unless they're gonna be cheaper & lighter, just go for Airstreaks.
Not sure the new BW's would be legal on your J3 anyway, as it's not an experimental.
Per the AA website: "...designed specifically for experimental only LSA ..."
 
Compared to regular Bushwheels, the Airstreaks (they come with both Certified and Experimental labels) are much lighter and cushier, the thinner sidewalls work well for J-3, they are the way to go if you are going big.
 
Hey all, I was looking for some advice on giving a J-3 (with the C-90 engine) the bush plane treatment (STOL kit, Bush tires, climb propeller, etc) and was wondering if you all had advice on any modifications you would do. I don't want to do anything too drastic and have a fairly limited budget, but I still want to make it bush-worthy. Thanks! I attached a picture of the plane.View attachment 26502

How many hours do you have in the J-3? Total?

How much money do you have to spend on so called "improvements"??

Tim
 
Perfectly legal, the TCDS just calls for a wood prop with length and rpm limits. Did it on a Stearman the same way sever years ago. Unfortunately the PA18 TCDS is not written that way.
I've always been under the impression that the FAA used double sided hammers to pound on us. So to be legit it has to be on the TCDS or Otherwise approved, STC, field approval, etc. (first side of the hammer) AND the part has to be produced by a PMA or otherwise certified shop or recently as an owner produced part (second side of the hammer) for an oldie... What am I missing here?
 
It says wood prop. Been run through several different FSDOS and they came to the same conclusion. That TCDS was written when there was common sense. Wood props don't have weird harmonics like metal. Pretty simple stuff.
 
DENNY, this was my grandpa's cub, and he gave it to me. He is incredibly meticulous and careful with his work, so I'm guessing that the gear was inspected recently.

Does Ellis know what you are up to? Beautiful plane, id keep it and fly it as is. There's a dirt field at the East end of KIZA where gliders operate,
have some fun there, you'll get some off airport experience and no big wheels needed.
 
Yes. But once again, we should ask you: how many hours do you have in Cubs? I have over 5000 hours in Cubs of most types, and plenty of time with three different VG setups, and I cannot feel much difference. Get several hundred hours in the pattern, then find someone with a heavily modded Cub and fly that. Much cheaper than modifying yours. You will find that all the mods do not make the airplane fly better - they just make it safer to land in places where you have no business landing in the first place - unless your livelihood is being a real bush pilot.

Practice what are called "Dutch rolls" in your airplane. Keep the nose on a point and roll from side to side with full aileron, maybe 30 degrees bank. Then find somebody with 29" Bushwheels, and do the same exercise.

If you do not mind the performance decrease, and want to look like a real bush pilot, by all means add all this stuff. You are the only one you need to make happy. It seems a shame to mess up that beautiful Ellis aircraft - more appropriate to get a dirtbag with patches all over and mod that.

Opinion, of course.
 
Recently, I decided to not get bushwheels for the cub-since it already has 4" rims and drum brakes, I don't think I should spend close to 6 grand on rims, brakes, and tires that I won't take full advantage of. Instead, I'm going to stick with the 800s that are already on it until I need to replace the brakes.

I spent some time with Ellis yesterday and he told me that he put VGs on one of his Cubs (one with floats) and felt a pretty big difference in handling characteristics at slow speeds, but that was probably due to the extra weight the cub had on it.

I'm definitely a novice pilot. I recognize that I don't know the plane nearly as well as I could/should and, in all honesty, would not make any modifications for a few years. I am just getting advice so that when the time comes, I know what I should and shouldn't modify, if anything.
 
Mine has the old wing only VG kit on it. I cannot compare it to anything though, it's the only plane I've ever flown. It seems to be well behaved near stall speeds. My instructor did comment that without the tail kit it felt like the tail actually stalled before the wing.
 
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