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Thread: J-4 project-3.14159265359

  1. #561
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    With your build you need to support the vertical fin since it is just a single tube with a joint at the bottom.
    Right. I was thinking more about streamlined struts as opposed to wires from the vertical fin to the horizontal stabilizer. Don't know if there's much difference in drag.

    Off-topic, but I noticed the Husky uses struts from bottom up. No bracing on the vertical stabilizer?

    Edit to add: never mind about the previous question. Not enough coffee yet.

  2. #562

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    The Huskys I have seen are fully wire braced, I presume there is a newer model that does not need the Vfin braced?

    There have been plenty of studies about the drag difference between round wire and streamline wire. But a standard Cub would not be a plane that I expect would be measurably faster with streamline wires. There are way to many other drag areas to fix before hundreds are spent on fancy wires.

    I expect the streamline struts I an using might be no better than the round wires. I have not done any calculation of two 3/8 thick struts compared to four 3/16 round wires.
    Mine will be faired better at the intersections but might be a wash.
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  3. #563

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    Second set of outer ends for these struts. These are not finished but they are ten fold better than the first set.
    I need to acquire the shims needed to set the struts up properly. The hardware used to lock these in place will be MS21042-6 nuts, and what is hard to see is the center of the stud on the horizontal is bored and tapped to take an AN3 or equivalent fastener to essentially "double nut" the assembly.
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    The inner end at the fuselage I expect will attach to the underside of the longerons, not on top as in these images.
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    Last edited by CharlieN; 05-21-2020 at 05:28 PM.

  4. #564

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    I am moving forward with the attachment points for the struts. The outer ends will have four aluminum rivets as well as being bonded to their ends. The ends now utilize Delrin bushings that can be shimmed as needed. I was working with bronze which is odd for me since I have not used any metal bushings since I discovered engineering plastics many decades ago.
    The inner end at this time has a steel mount tack welded to the lower fuselage. I may in time bolt this assembly to the fuse, time will tell.
    If the tabs are welded I will use pin rivets to attach the aluminum struts to the steel tabs.
    It is my intention to zinc plate the aft lower fuselage before painting. This will aid in the longevity of this aluminum to steel joint.

    Back outside again.
    The struts with a few detail shots.
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  5. #565

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    A few days ago I got the last tack welds in holding all the ribs and bits in the elevators.
    The outer section forward of the spar will be a composite surface so that comes later in the year.

    Good feeling when to get it outside again with the surfaces hung in place.
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  6. #566

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    Early yesterday I got the pilots side pedals tack welded from a bunch of sub assemblies made a year or so ago.
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    And now the first trial fitting.
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  7. #567

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    After the trial fitting I found I had to re-position the pedals for frame clearance and inner brake arm room. With all known clearance issues accounted for I assembled the PAX side pedals.
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    With these tacked together it was time to get them in place.
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    I have now flipped the fuselage upside down again so it is easier to build and install all the pedal linkage.
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  8. #568

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    Oh and one might see in the images of the pedals above, a week ago I installed a divider between the pilot and pax pedals making it very difficult for someone to get their feet over onto the otherside rudder or brake pedals.
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    Someday these might prevent an accident without anyone knowing so.
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  9. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    Oh and one might see in the images of the pedals above, a week ago I installed a divider between the pilot and pax pedals making it very difficult for someone to get their feet over onto the otherside rudder or brake pedals.
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    Someday these might prevent an accident without anyone knowing so.
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    Sometimes on a solo cross-country I like to spread out into the middle of the seat. Left foot on the pilot's left pedal and right foot on the co-pilot's right pedal.

    It's a nice change in seating position. Not sure if your divider would prevent that or if you'd ever do that, haha.

  10. #570

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    No this will not interfere. I got the pedal linkage built and installed yesterday and am working of the pedal adjustment mechanism soon. One can sit with both feet to one side or straddle with a foot to each side and fly essentially with a side stick. The seat is contoured with the center raised a bit such that a flat set would be more comfortable for center seat flying.

    As I sit here on a calm morning after last evenings storms, I reminisce way back when I flew a C-150, I would take off, loosen the belt and move to the center of the plane. Trimwheel and throttle to finish the climb. Simply lean your head and sometimes ones shoulders to roll in and out of turns. Calm and peaceful.
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  11. #571
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamTom12 View Post
    Sometimes on a solo cross-country I like to spread out into the middle of the seat. Left foot on the pilot's left pedal and right foot on the co-pilot's right pedal.

    It's a nice change in seating position. Not sure if your divider would prevent that or if you'd ever do that, haha.
    I do the same or move both feet to other side. If you get bored just move over one pedal with each foot and " try" to do some Dutch rolls, fun stuff

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  12. #572

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    I did that with the inner pedals, as in opposite travel. Took awhile but I got it. I wonder how long it would take for that to come back.

    I just connected the pedals to the rudder with a small dia rope, the travel ration is spot on. This is nice since I can keep moving forward and not have to remake parts.

    Mounting all the pulleys for the cable runs will be time consuming but they will be where the drawings depict the routing

  13. #573

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    I made a change at the bottom of the control sticks where the push - pull tube attaches. I now have what appears to be a nice full range of travel on the elevators which complement the rudder movement from the pedals.
    It is looking like the cable runs under the fuselage will be "almost straight" as in 2 to 5° changes at a few spots till they need to truly turn. Kind of frustrating since I am thinking I need to utilize guides rather than pulleys along this route. Thank golly that we have some very low friction plastic bearing material available rather than being stuck with Phenolics as in the past.

  14. #574

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    This post is from work I did a week ago,
    Here I am getting the pedals tack welded from a bunch of sub assemblies made a year or so ago and now ready for the first trial fitting.
    I do have a few changes to make since the outer pedal can contact a frame tube and the inner pedal needs to move a slight amount since there just in not enough room for the brake pedal.
    I will now assemble the PAX side pedals, then narrow the set I have shown here and leave them at that point till all the linkage has been built for a true test fitting.
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  15. #575

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    And later that same day, And now there are four, far from done but they are there.
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