Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 121 to 148 of 148

Thread: Building a Scratch Built Cub

  1. #121
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    10,899
    Post Thanks / Like
    Those look better than pipers original ones.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

  2. #122
    jnorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looking good, as always John! Keep up the great work.
    Joe

    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  3. #123
    Marty57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Nipomo, Ca
    Posts
    1,406
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nicely done John ...... see you at Airventure.
    Marty
    N367PS
    Psalm 36:7 "High and low among men find refuge in the shadow of His wing"
    www.marty2plus2.com
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  4. #124

    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Down low in the hills of Vermont USA
    Posts
    1,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thinking about Airventure, can we get a tour of the shop? yes we know it is a busy week for you.
    Likes stknrddr liked this post

  5. #125
    cdenora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Leon Mexico
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hello John

    Your work is awesome, really getting exited to see the possibilities.

    Im thinking of starting a scratch build project my self, but dont really know how or where to start, I see you have some print out patterns, did those come out of some instructions ? or where can I find those templates ?
    Also curious do you have a list of materials available as to buy all the tubing in bulk ?
    Really hope you can help me out to get started.
    Best regards

    Chrsitian
    Quote Originally Posted by stknrddr View Post
    Lunch Time Aviation presents a builder's update: It's lunch time, so I thought I'd take a little time to provide my project update. Continuing with the Torque Tube assemblies, I have attached photos of the torque tube bearing mounts. I typically draw any flat steel parts on paper, then glue (spray adhesive) the paper template to the sheet, than cut out the part. Here I used a portable hydraulic punch I borrowed from work. I got lucky that the large hole I needed to punch was the same diameter as one of the punch and die sets we had. Electricians use these punches to punch holes in electrical panels. After punching, and cutting the part out using a cut off wheel or a sheet metal shear if applicable, we bent up the flanges, and assembled. In order to cut out the curved lines to fit to the bearing tube, I drilled a series of small holes just outside the line, then wiggled the scrap part away from the good part, followed by using the bench top grinder to smooth out the steel to the shape of the curved line. We fixture up the parts welded. My project partner has been doing the welding while I typically fabricate many of the parts and the fixtures. It works out well for us. We're building two cubs, so our combined interests works out well for both of us.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  6. #126
    supercub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Let me check my GPS, gee how'd we ever navigate with those sectional things?
    Posts
    837
    Post Thanks / Like
    Beautiful job, great workmanship. Please keep the updates coming, I always enjoy seeing a projects progress. Thanks for sharing.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post
    Likes Brandsman liked this post

  7. #127
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    “Also curious do you have a list of materials available as to buy all the tubing in bulk ?
    Really hope you can help me out to get started.”

    Hello Christian,
    Thank you for the positive comments about my project. My friend Charlie and I are each scratch building two Super Cubs, and are sharing our skills for these projects. I really enjoy the scratch building process, however it does take considerable time, especially when we work on our projects infrequently.
    We are primarily using the original Super Cub drawings by Piper. We are using the Northland cd of drawings, and we also often reference Christian Storms helpful website Supercubproject.com to look up drawings. I want to credit Christian Sturms site where he fabricated the control sticks and torque tube, which helped me so much when building our assemblies.
    Regarding a list of tubing, I may still have a list, and I will look for it. We simply referenced the drawings, and created a list of tubing we needed, then ordered it. For a realativeyl small cost, a person can work for quit a while fabricating a fuselage and gear legs.
    if I were to make another, I would buy tail surfaces at AirVenture in the AeroMart tent (used parts) instead of fabricating these as there is always a supply of good pieces, at reasonable prices.
    Regarding my drawings I use for templates, I do have a file, however I lost the availability of AutoCAD software, so I’ve been lacking the capability to manage the files. I have been wanting to find a free source to use my files, and I have this on my list to do.
    I am currently away from home for a few days, which will delay me in looking through my files.

    I hope this helps,
    john


  8. #128
    cdenora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Leon Mexico
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    John

    Thank you for the reply, any help is great, I am far far away , ( in mexico ) so I am pretty much on my own except for this forum. so this is why we really want to make sure we get a correct list of parts going because any mistake can cost us a lot of time and expense to get missing or wrong parts down here.

    Regards

    Christian

    Quote Originally Posted by stknrddr View Post
    “Also curious do you have a list of materials available as to buy all the tubing in bulk ?
    Really hope you can help me out to get started.”

    Hello Christian,
    Thank you for the positive comments about my project. My friend Charlie and I are each scratch building two Super Cubs, and are sharing our skills for these projects. I really enjoy the scratch building process, however it does take considerable time, especially when we work on our projects infrequently.
    We are primarily using the original Super Cub drawings by Piper. We are using the Northland cd of drawings, and we also often reference Christian Storms helpful website Supercubproject.com to look up drawings. I want to credit Christian Sturms site where he fabricated the control sticks and torque tube, which helped me so much when building our assemblies.
    Regarding a list of tubing, I may still have a list, and I will look for it. We simply referenced the drawings, and created a list of tubing we needed, then ordered it. For a realativeyl small cost, a person can work for quit a while fabricating a fuselage and gear legs.
    if I were to make another, I would buy tail surfaces at AirVenture in the AeroMart tent (used parts) instead of fabricating these as there is always a supply of good pieces, at reasonable prices.
    Regarding my drawings I use for templates, I do have a file, however I lost the availability of AutoCAD software, so I’ve been lacking the capability to manage the files. I have been wanting to find a free source to use my files, and I have this on my list to do.
    I am currently away from home for a few days, which will delay me in looking through my files.

    I hope this helps,
    john

    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  9. #129

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Cloquet, MN
    Posts
    140
    Post Thanks / Like
    John,
    Working with a partner makes a lot of sense to me now. Another set of eyes and functional brain would have kept me from making some mistakes. You are absolutely right on the pile of raw materials thing. It will keep a guy busy for a long time cheaply if you enjoy the process. If you make an irreversible mistake, it goes in the trash a lot less painfully than wrecking a kit part. Your work is incredible by the way, keep the pictures coming.
    Christian,
    I started with the aluminum wings. Spars, drag wires, drag wire nipples, and hardware you will likely buy. Everything else is sheet stock and time. The hardest thing for me is the hardware, but that is my own fault. There is a pile of it. Rarely a local source for aircraft stuff. You pause a lot waiting for the right length bolts, rivets, washers, and nuts to come in the mail. If a guy changes nothing, wing hardware is a breeze, order it from a list created from members and available on this forum. Scratch building can be done, just not in a hurry.
    Thanks,
    Jim
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  10. #130

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good work. How many hours did the first fuselage take vs the second one?

  11. #131
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by AMERI-CUB View Post
    Good work. How many hours did the first fuselage take vs the second one?
    Hi, Regarding time to build a second fuselage, we did not track hours specifically, however the second build is significantly easier and quicker than the first. My joke is that the first airplane is experimental, while the second is professionally built as we learn so much along the way.
    I tend to often do more thinking than building, and after a decision is made, and with a little experience, the second time around seems to go twice as fast.
    I hope this helps, and I hope to post more progress reports soon.
    john
    Thanks CharlieN thanked for this post

  12. #132

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    14
    Post Thanks / Like

    Torque Tube Mast 40212

    Does anyone have a drawing in the flat of part 40212. This is the mast for the torque tube. I was needing one to cut the mast from sheet metal.

  13. #133
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    An Over Due Scratch Building Update

    Work continues on my Super Cub project, slight as it has been.
    A lot of various tasks completed.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5471.jpg 
Views:	40 
Size:	131.8 KB 
ID:	47770
    The D window frames have been welded in place. To date the window frames
    have beensome of the only purchased parts.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	97.0 KB 
ID:	47773
    The rudder and brake pedals have been fabricated, however the re-enforcing plate
    for the heel brakes was needed.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	75.4 KB 
ID:	47771

    I sheared and bent a piece of flat steel, then drilled holes using a step drill bit.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	124.1 KB 
ID:	47772
    Using a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel, followed by filing the edges even
    and smooth makes for a clean part. Notched the ends to fit as needed.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	97.0 KB 
ID:	47773

    Here, the re-inforcing plate is clamped in place with the heel
    brake pedals in place. Still need to drill holes to attach the brake pedals.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4623.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	76.9 KB 
ID:	47774

    Fabricated the Rudder Stops. These can be threaded if needed to
    insert a bolt for adjustments.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2939.jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	112.1 KB 
ID:	47775

    Added a tube across the gear legs as a step.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5472.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	78.2 KB 
ID:	47776

    Fabricated and located the rearward fairlead brackets in place.
    Note that the wire rope and twine is temporary and will be replaced with AN wire rope.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4214.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	69.1 KB 
ID:	47778

    Curved "Piper Channel" gets welded in place for the boot cowl to attach to.
    The Piper Channel is made by shearing and bending sheet steel.
    A lot of this stuff is needed.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	61.6 KB 
ID:	47777

    To bend the radius on the Piper Channel into the correct shape, follow the blue prints.
    I swung an arc using a tape measure hooked to a screw head, to draw the
    correct radius onto plywood.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	52.4 KB 
ID:	47779

    Simply bend the channel to match the arc drawn on the plywood,
    then cut to final length.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4157.jpg 
Views:	36 
Size:	62.8 KB 
ID:	47780

    Used a framing square to line up the Piper Channel onto the fuselage.
    Charlie then welded it in place for me.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4.jpg 
Views:	40 
Size:	78.8 KB 
ID:	47781

    Finally add a couple of braces and spacers to hold it in place so the
    fabric does not distort it when shrunken in place.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5475.jpg 
Views:	45 
Size:	136.9 KB 
ID:	47782


    Thank you for looking. More to come on a more frequent basis.
    John

  14. #134
    RVBottomly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Asotin County Washington (KLWS)
    Posts
    772
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the updates, John!

    Do you actually fabricate the Piper channel? I've bought it because it seemed too hard to produce efficiently.

  15. #135
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the updates, John!
    Do you actually fabricate the Piper channel? I've bought it because it seemed too hard to produce efficiently.
    Hi Vic,
    Yes, the Piper Channel was made using 1" wide strips of 4130, 0.020" or 0.025" thick (can't remember which). these came in 6 foot lengths from Aircraft Spruce.
    I placed a piece of masking tape on each end, and a piece at the center, marked a line 5/16" from each edge on the tapes, placed it in the break, bend, flip it around, bend, making sure to include generous radius' on the bends.
    I suggest to folks to cut a small length of material and bend up some samples, prior to bending 6 foot pieces. It does take some time, and it is hard to make the channels all look exactly the same, if needed to be the same.

    Thanks Vic, I like your building project and the boat you built,

    john
    Thanks RVBottomly thanked for this post

  16. #136
    jnorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks good John! Keep up the great work!!
    Joe

    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  17. #137
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Requesting thoughts on fabricating a home made wind shield for experimental Cubs?

    Does anyone have practical experience in fabricating a windshield for a PA-18 from scratch?

    The potential challenges I see are that the wind shield would not have a permanent set to it, making
    it more difficult to fit and to install.

    Are the purchased wind shields made so some cutting and fitting
    is required to accommodate any variances in final assembly and cowl shape?


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Windshield.PNG 
Views:	32 
Size:	176.0 KB 
ID:	47882

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5475.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	136.9 KB 
ID:	47883

    Thanks for any thoughts on this one,

    john
    Likes CharlieN liked this post

  18. #138
    tedwaltman1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    425
    Post Thanks / Like
    The guys on the Dark Aero project made their own windshield. Here’s the video where they talk about the windshield mold

    http://youtu.be/3XscUDvgD-Y
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post
    Likes jrussl liked this post

  19. #139
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    9,989
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stknrddr View Post
    Are the purchased wind shields made so some cutting and fitting
    is required to accommodate any variances in final assembly and cowl shape?
    Seldom can a purchased windshield be dropped in without any cutting and fitting. Over the past 60 odd years of installing windshields in various airplanes, I can not think of even one which did not require cutting and fitting. Some more than others.
    N1PA
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post
    Likes wireweinie liked this post

  20. #140
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sandpoint, Idaho and Poplar Grove, (Chicago) IL
    Posts
    5,323
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yes, the windshields have extra material so they can be trimmed to fit. I don't think any, even the factory replacements, just drop in. It would be quite a challenge to make your own, and there is no need to do so. Buy one and trim to fit. Its all good.

    Best of luck

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post
    Likes Eddie Foy liked this post

  21. #141
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    9,989
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stknrddr View Post
    Requesting thoughts on fabricating a home made wind shield for experimental Cubs?

    Does anyone have practical experience in fabricating a windshield for a PA-18 from scratch?
    Another thought. Though I have never attempted to form a windshield, I have heat formed smaller pieces of plexiglass. Due to the size, shape, cost of materiel and steep learning curve I suggest that the cost of buying one all made from someone who does it for a living is very short money. You only need to crack one or distort it directly in your line of vision to create an expense higher than buying just one good one.
    N1PA

  22. #142
    Cub junkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    My Moms basement
    Posts
    2,095
    Post Thanks / Like
    About 2003 a friend and I took some molds for his biplane windshields to Airplane Plastics in Dayton,OH. It was only a two hour drive. The owner was kind enough to show us around his shop and it was an eye opener for us. We got to observe his crew making Van's canopies for side by sides that day. The process of the flat sheet coming out of the oven and carried to the male mold happened in seconds by workers that knew exactly what they were doing. After that huge piece of plex was where it needed to be they hooked up a vacuum hose and drew it down on the male mold perfectly. I have never seen so many vice grip #11's in my life. They use them on the outer ring to clamp the plex in place. All this takes place in seconds. I knew right then I was never going to be doing something like this even though I love to make airplane parts. I came home and planted rubber trees so I could make my own tires, it made more sense.
    Last edited by Cub junkie; 03-28-2020 at 09:10 PM.
    Likes Eddie Foy, CamTom12, skywagon8a liked this post

  23. #143
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lunch Time Aviation presents a Builders Update


    Baggage Area

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3058.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	107.5 KB 
ID:	47912

    Although I incorporated the "Reverse Dog Leg" modification, I will likely enclose
    the baggage area with a sheet of plywood or Similar. I suppose I could change my
    mind to extend this area, or at least some of it before covering. I fabricated little
    brackets (tabs) to attach the plywood.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3059.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	94.7 KB 
ID:	47913

    Here's a close up of the brackets (tabs). Notice a nut plate is riveted to
    each tab.

    Fire Wall Fabrication

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2908.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	88.5 KB 
ID:	47914

    I transferred the shape of the fire wall from the print to paper.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2910.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	43.8 KB 
ID:	47915

    Cut out the paper shape and transferred to cheap plywood, in this
    case underlayment plywood. A person could also transfer the paper directly onto
    the steel sheet, however I wanted to be able to sand the long edges of the
    plywood straight, hopefully to result in a better fire wall final shape.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3103.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	82.7 KB 
ID:	47916

    Using electric cutting shears (Milwaukee brand shown here), makes it easy to cut stainless sheet.
    I highly recommend using these.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3104.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	64.1 KB 
ID:	47917

    Debur using a fine file and emery paper stapled to a wood block

    I plan to form a fire wall flange and attach it using rivets, next.
    I tried putting beads vertically on the firewall, but the bead roller I
    tried to used, couldn't form the bead well enough, so I'm
    omitting the beads (stainless steel fire wall...).

    Thank you for looking, but wait there's more:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2781.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	114.6 KB 
ID:	47918

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2018.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	107.6 KB 
ID:	47919

    And for fun, I included a couple of photos of my scratch built
    Pietenpol AirCamper project I built. Due to the Cub project, this
    project sets idle...

    Thanks for looking,

    John
    Thanks RVBottomly thanked for this post
    Likes CamTom12 liked this post

  24. #144
    supercrow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Smith Pond near Millinocket, Me
    Posts
    365
    Post Thanks / Like
    In that dog leg area I hinged the back baggage panel to the bottom floor and used a southco fastener at the top and can hinge it to lay down on the floor. But I put my elev. cables under the floor, so that is all a flat area, and that made it easy to do.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post
    Likes stknrddr liked this post

  25. #145
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Scratch Building my Super Cub Update

    Been working on the Upper Canopy Section, specifically the Bird Cage

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5526.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	124.9 KB 
ID:	48382

    I built a short set of wings about 2' feet long, and clamped them
    in place onto the fuselage. These are being used to define the profile
    of the Bird Cage above the canopy.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5619.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	87.7 KB 
ID:	48383

    I spanned the canopy section using temporary cross members
    to define the profile. Bending home-made piper channel into shape to
    match the airfoil worked well, then clamped the piper channel to the
    cross members. I aligned the piper channel (Bird Cage) pieces flush to the
    inside of the canopy tubes (canopy longerons) so any final interior covers
    will be flat. in this photo, the center piece of piper channel is not in place yet.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5621.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	92.0 KB 
ID:	48384

    Another photo of the fixturing. Notice the second (Charlies) Super Cub project
    in the back ground, while we work on my Cub today.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5625.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	134.6 KB 
ID:	48385

    Here's a photo of the Bird Cage on the right side of the fuselage.
    The first wing rib is also in view here.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5629.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	85.8 KB 
ID:	48386

    A view from above and behind. The next photo will be the trailing edge
    of the Bird Cage fixture.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5623.jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	93.6 KB 
ID:	48387

    I used straight edges to emulate the way the fabric will lay
    on the fuselage while fixturing and welding the Bird Cage
    in place. Happily, the actual parts and placement are matching
    very well to the plans, indicating some accuracy.

    Thank you for looking!

    John
    Likes CharlieN, RVBottomly, Bill Rusk liked this post

  26. #146
    jnorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    834
    Post Thanks / Like
    John, I couldn't figure out how you were going to put a canopy on a Super Cub. Then I realized you were talking about the skylight!
    Joe

    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat
    Likes stknrddr liked this post

  27. #147
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Builders Update
    - More on the Sly Light Area (Bird Cage)
    - Fuel Line Mock Up
    - Second Baggage Door


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5735.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	138.8 KB 
ID:	48501

    Here you can see the stringers now welded in place above the
    canopy (upper cabin, skylight section, bird cage,...)
    Notice the wing attachment fittings are not in place yet, so the
    leading end of the stringer is still free.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5713.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	73.0 KB 
ID:	48502

    I sheared and bent my own piper channel, and this is the method
    I used to bend the air foil shape for the bird cage pieces.
    Pass the piece through the hole, and bend gently. If you feel the
    piece bend, you went too far. Gently!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5725.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	60.8 KB 
ID:	48503

    Match the air foil shape to the ribs. Here, I have
    a bird cage stringer clamped to a rib.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5736.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	87.8 KB 
ID:	48504

    Here you can see the out board stringers welded in place,
    and the center stringer clamped in place.
    Although I am not ready to weld the wing fittings on,
    I need to weld these stringers on, to continue to work on
    the turtle deck stringers, as the turtle deck stringers will
    fare into the bird cage stringers.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5735.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	138.8 KB 
ID:	48501

    Back to this photo. I have the fuel valve location selected,
    and the valve is clamped into place per the Super Cub plans.
    I want to have minimal interior, and I may even omit the sheet
    metal tunnel over the throttle levers, but not sure yet. Here, I
    sort of mocked up the fuel line locations using small diameter
    pvc tubing.The fuel lines will be per plans using aluminum tubing.
    Heat and bend the pvc tubing to shape for mock up.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5749.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	144.7 KB 
ID:	48505

    I framed up a second baggage door frame. I have the small
    baggage compartment right behind the rear seat, with the
    door low on the side of the fuselage. A small second area located
    above the longerons and aft of the original baggage area will be included.
    The wooden dowel is simply a mock up of the stringer location, and
    will be replaced with aluminum stringers.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1754.jpg 
Views:	29 
Size:	108.5 KB 
ID:	48506

    And for fun, a photo from New Holstein Super Cub Fly-In 2013

    thanks for looking,

    john
    Likes CharlieN, CamTom12, jrussl, jnorris, Jim A. liked this post

  28. #148
    stknrddr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenville (north east), Wi. U.S.A.
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like
    Builder's Update

    Heel Brake Pedal Brackets
    Turtle Deck Stringers
    Lower Door Seal Flange

    A few posts ago, I shared the fabrication process of the front heel brake reinforcing bracket. A spacer of sorts is needed between the bracket and the pedals themselves. Some planes use 1" aluminum or steel tubing for the spacers, while others use 1" wood blocks.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.JPG 
Views:	21 
Size:	143.0 KB 
ID:	48783

    I elected to use wood blocks, however I laminated a three
    piece block with a clear pine inside with aircraft plywood on
    the outer sides. I'll bore out a big lighting hole prior to varnishing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1.jpg 
Views:	29 
Size:	60.8 KB 
ID:	48784

    Laminating the blocks. Note I made enough for our two airplane projects.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	50.6 KB 
ID:	48785

    Cut the blocks to shape on the table saw.
    More to follow later.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5899.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	83.8 KB 
ID:	48786

    A lot of options for turtle deck stringers including
    wood, extruded aluminum, rectangular aluminum tubing,
    carbon fiber,...
    I elected to use 3/4" diameter round aluminum tubing. Pretty light,
    readily available from a hardware store, I like the large radius it will
    provide as the fabric wraps around it, and relatively cheap.

    The only problem is that I could only find them locally in 8 foot lengths.
    I needed to lengthen them to 9'-9".

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5730.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	33.5 KB 
ID:	48787

    I bought 3/4" diameter wood dowels, cut them
    to 12" lengths, and applied 3 coats of spar varnish to seal them.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5808.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	69.4 KB 
ID:	48788

    I glued the dowel into one piece, let it dry, then
    glued the 21" long extension onto the assembly,
    and clamped the assembly to a straight edge.
    I would do the same again as this worked very well.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5916.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	80.3 KB 
ID:	48789

    Here's a photo of how the aluminum stringer fits
    up nicely to the trailing end of the bird cage section.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5879.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	142.2 KB 
ID:	48791

    For door gap seals, I sheared a folded over a piece of 0.025"
    sheet steel. Charlie welded it to the door edges for me.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5909.jpg 
Views:	24 
Size:	46.5 KB 
ID:	48792

    The flanges will be covered with fabric when the door
    gets covered. A foam seal can be added as well.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1811.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	76.8 KB 
ID:	48793
    And a photo from Supercub dot org New Holstein 2015

    thank you for looking

    john
    Likes jnorris, CharlieN, Jim A. liked this post

Similar Threads

  1. So..... you think building a cub from scratch is tough?
    By cubdriver2 in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-06-2016, 08:31 AM
  2. Scratch Built PA-18 Wings from North land drawings?
    By LStAubin in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 02-08-2014, 12:03 AM
  3. Building from scratch
    By cgoldy in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-12-2013, 11:09 PM
  4. Scratch building SC
    By Larry G in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-20-2011, 07:15 AM
  5. Scratch built Fuselage
    By canopyflier in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-28-2010, 09:00 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •