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Building a Scratch Built Cub

Builders Update

Making A Leather Control Stick Grip

I decided to make leather control stick grips. I'm
incorporating the traditional baseball stich pattern
on them as well.

I'll provide step by step photos of the procedure.

1.jpg
Select and cut leather to size to fit tightly around the stick.
A straight edge and sharp utility knife works fine.

2.jpg
Mark the stitch hole locations along each edge of the leather grip.
I came in about 1/8" for the first hole, then spaced remaining
holes "about" 1/4" apart. Whatever hole pattern you chose,
copy it on the opposite side. I used an awl to mark the hole locations.

3.jpg
I used a small drill bit (don't know what size), and a drill motor
to cut the holes.

4.jpg
A leather punch or other means may be suitable as well.

5.jpg
I am using artificial sinew for the thread material. This stuff
appears to be a wax coated synthetic thread (flat cord). I like the way
it looks similar to rawhide cord.

I needed a needle to thread the cord through the holes. I made
two needles using 0.032 Safety Wire. Cut wire to length, and
fold it over the end of the wire around the cord, and crimp it
tight to minimize bulk.
I cut a piece of cord about three times the length of the grip, and
attached a needle on each end.

6.jpg
I decided to incorporate a hole in the grip to accommodate
a push to talk button. This grip is only a trial, and I'm still
deciding exactly where to place the switch.
I needed a leather punch of correct size. I sanded the outer
side of a piece of 4130 tubing to a sharp edge. A couple of
firm whacks with a ball peen hammer punched it through.


7.jpg
Here's the punch through the other side.

8.jpg
The grip will be located over the switch.

9.jpg
Stitching the grip.
Start at the top by passing each needle from outside to inside,
then through the back of the next hole on the opposite side.

10.jpg
Continue threading the next holes down, from the back,
on the opposite side. Pull tight as you go.
To create a more decorative look, a person could use colored
cord, and use two different colors of cord (two pieces of cord)
and thread every other hole, so every other stich alternates color.
I didn't make this up, I saw it when I researched how to do all of this.
I'm staying with a utilitarian look, so plain cord is selected.

11.jpg
I cut small stitch holes resulting in the need to pull the
needles through the holes using "needle nose" pliers.
I only bled once during the entire process.

12.jpg
A couple of stitches across the last holes, then simply
pull tight, and tie off the cord on the underside.
Snip the extra cord off.

13.jpg
Here's the switch side.

14.jpg
Here's the stitched side.

15.jpg
Side view.
Making leather grips is not as hard as it may seem.
It took me about 1-1/2 to 2 hours for the entire process.
Give it a try if you like it.

16.jpg
Bonus Photo: Watching the SpaceX launch while working on the Cub.

Thank you for looking.

john
 

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I'm building a horizontal stabilizer for exp PA-18 150. The last few inches of the outboard leading edge is squeeze to 3/8 " . Does anyone have recommend technique on accomplishing this withe the center line of the tube being maintained?
 
Bucrepus - Regarding your question:

"I'm building a horizontal stabilizer for exp PA-18 150. The last few inches of the outboard leading edge is squeeze to 3/8 " . Does anyone have recommend technique on accomplishing this withe the center line of the tube being maintained?"

I used approximately the same process as Storm Pilot did in his description below in a different post, however that I'll add that I usually use pieces of flat steel, and pieces long enough where the length of the flat steel extends beyond where you want the taper to start, so not have a little crease in the tube where you begin to pinch it. Adding a hinge is a great idea, which I did not do, I just played with the geometry.

Here's Storm Pilots' reply which is the approximate procedure I used as well:

"I used 2 short pieces of 1"x 4" maple cut to about 6" long to form a "V" in my vise. If you have a hinge handy you can fasten them together but if not just play with the geometry and it will work. Place the tube in the notch of the "V" align carefully and squeeze until the desired results are achieved. Cracking of the tube shouldn't be a problem since you wont be compressing the tube totally but if you have a torch you can also anneal the tube first to make it more malleable by heating the last 4" or so to a dull red and letting it cool slowly at room temperature before forming it."

Good luck, it'll be great.

john
 
Builders Update

Upper Baggage Area Fiberglass Floor Panel
Control Stick Grip - Part 2
Bonus Photo

I'm incorporating an upper baggage area aft of the traditional baggage area.
I considered what type of floor to install, including a fabric sling, netting, plywood,
and I settled on trying to fabricate a composite panel. Here's my process:

1.jpg
First, a look at the finished panel setting in place.
Other than repairing a smashed fiberglass Case tractor grill after a
kid (not it) drove the tractor through a fence on the farm, this is my
first attempt at making a fiberglass panel.


2.jpg
I started with a flat work surface (counter top material), covered with
plastic sheet (big garbage bag).
The panel will consist of a 1/4" thick foam core, with a sheet of fiberglass
epoxied to each surface.

Foam used: 1/4' Divinycell Foam PVC - supplier is Aircraft Spruce
Fiberglass Cloth
Epoxy Resin and Hardener

I cut the foam to approximate shape, laid fiberglass cloth neatly over it.
Cut to fit.


3.jpg
Mixed up resin and hardener. Equal pumps from each can.
Mixed in a plastic cheese container.
Followed directions.

4.jpg
Spread the resin mixture onto the surface using a wide plastic
putty knife. Gentle movements at a 45 degree angle.
Enough pressure to embed the resin into the cloth without
leaving puddles or excess.

5.jpg
Trim the edges while the cloth is gummy and
walk away to let dry.
Apply cloth using same process on opposite side.

6.jpg
Make a paper template to cut the panel to shape.
I drew lines on the panel.

7.jpg
I clamped an aluminum straight edge onto the panel
to be used a fence to follow during cutting. Used a band saw
to cut the panel straight on all four sides.

8.jpg
Added Piper Channel in the baggage floor area to ensure
the panel would not sag. If something were to fall through
or past the panel, the item would have direct contact with the
control cables. I placed these little stiffeners about 9 or so
inches apart. I was not confident that the panel would land on top
of the longerons enough for proper support, so the little cross
members were added.

9.jpg
Here's the panel in place. I will seal the edges using
epoxy and Mico Ballons at a later time, and I will plan
to post that process.
I really happy with the results. The panel is firm, flat, and
it looks appropriate.

Control Stick Grip - Part 2

knob.jpg
One of my recent posts included the process to
make a leather control stick grip. I supplemented the
grip with a wood knob. My push to talk button is on
the side of the knob (see previous post), so I will not
have a button on top.
Here I used a piece of maple wood for the knob. I cut it to
round shape on a band saw, and stared sanding on a bench top
belt sander, then by hand to make it smooth like glass.
I cut and glued a wood insert on the bottom of the knob
to fit snuggly into the steel tube (stick).
I like it.

Bonus Photo - Wisconsin from the Air

Cranberry Bogs.jpg
A recent photo I took of a Wisconsin cranberry farm,
located in north central Wisconsin.
Wisconsin is the leading producer of cranberries, growing
about 60% of the nations crop (says wiscran dot org).

Thank you for looking,

John
 

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Builders' Update

Front Heel Brake Assembly
Tail Section Panel Tabs
Bonus Photos

Blocks and Pedals.jpg

Currently working on the front heel brake assembly.
Here I have the wood spacer blocks and brake pedals
setting in place. The bolts are only miscellaneous,
temporary, upside down hardware..., and will be replaced.
The floor board is a mock up as well.
Question: Is there any reason why the steel heel brake plate
cannot be welded onto the fuselage? The plans call out bolting
it to the floor board. I wonder if the plate may have been an
addition, and not original to the plans?


tabs.jpg

I am including a removable aluminum panel
in the aft section, way back at the tailwheel are,
on the bottom surface of the fuselage.
Tabs are now fully welded in place.

Bonus Photos
NH Pavilion.jpg
New Holstein Super Cub Fly-In 2015

I was in the area over the weekend, and stopped by the New Holstein, WI airport,
home of the New Holstein Super Cub Fly-In.
The framed photos related to the events
shown below are hanging in the airport FBO.

IMG_6401.jpg
IMG_6402.jpg
IMG_6403.jpg

Thank you for looking,

john
 

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Builder's Update - Stringers, Baggage Doors, Fuel Valve Bracket, Shoulder Harness Bracket, Belly Cover

Hi all,
The following are photos of my Experimental Super Cub project progress:

IMG_3339.JPG
IMG_3342.JPG

Two photos above are of the belly cover at the aft end of the fuselage.
The tabs and nut plates are in place, and I need to drill the holes in the sheet
metal cover to attach.


IMG_7136.jpg

IMG_7137.jpg

I finally finished some of the stringers. I used 3/4" diameter Aluminum Tubes for the turtle deck
and I bought aluminum stringers from Jay at Javron for the side stringers.

IMG_7149.jpg

The photo above is how I am faring the center turtle deck stringer
to the center sky light area stringer. I'll add piper channel (C Channel)
across the cabin after I get the wing attachment fittings welded in place.

IMG_7135.jpg

Another photo faring the stringers together and of the
shoulder harness attachment plate welded in place.


IMG_7060.jpg

The second baggage door framed up using bent up 0.020" sheet metal.


IMG_7211.jpg

Baggage doors clamped in place.



IMG_7148.jpg

Here's a photo of the fuel valve bracket tack welded in place per the plans.


Bonus Photos
IMG_7295.jpg
A view of Wisconsin from the air of the "driftless region" of southwest Wisconsin.


IMG_7304.jpg

Here's where the Wisconsin River (left) meets the Mississippi River and heads south.

IMG_7320.jpg
The Mississippi River running south. Wisconsin on the left, Iowa on the right.

Thank you for looking,

John
 

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The front of the belly pan in the tail usually matches a metal V section on the frame that ties in with the belly stringer. The bend Skywagon8a mentioned makes it work, are you omitting the belly stringer?
DENNY
 
Hi Denny and Tempdoug,

Thanks for the good comments. Yes, I plan to roll two or three beads lengthwise into the belly pan to stiffen it up which is why I haven't drilled the bolt holes in the pan yet. I guess I could drill holes at the end of each bead and/or at the end of the pan for water to exit. I hadn't thought of that.

I do plan to have a stringer in the belly, however I will have the stringer die into the bottom of the fuselage somewhere ahead of the belly pan.

thanks,

john
 
Hi Skywagon8a and Joe N,

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate your help.

john
 
The water issue is a good point. I have a fabric covered belly tail section, but it is open at the lower vertical tubes in the back. I normally have my plane in the hanger all winter, but had a friend in mine doing work so the cub sat through some good snow storms. Pulled it into the IA's hanger for annual and they noted that the tail was now full of water to the top of the tubes. They burned a few holes and all was well with the world.
DENNY
 
Builders' Update

Windshield Frames and Wing Spar Hole Drilling for Ailerons

IMG_7595[1].jpg
I sheared, bent and attached the windshield frames as shown here.
I made both frames the same shape having a flat along the outside
to the attach the windshield to, then a 90 degree bend along the front
side. I also have a short bend along the back side of the diagonal
tube to weld the frame to the fuselage. The frames are shy of the
longeron so fuel lines can transition from inside the frames to the front
of the fuselage. I have no plan to put an interior cover on the frames,
but if I decide to add them, I will probably need to add a couple of
tabs to attach the covers to. Something to consider when
scratch building.

IMG_7585.jpg
Before welding the frames in place, I clamped straight edges
along the outside of the upper cockpit as shown. This is to
ensure that I get the frames aligned flat to the outside of
the fuselage.

IMG_7591.jpg
Here you can see how I controlled the orientation
of the outside edge of the frame.

Moving on the Wing Spars

spar 1.jpg

I am building primarily a scratch built wing with a few
parts being purchased from Javron. Jay at Javron will sell
any individual parts. Here, I am laying out the holes to be
drilled in the rear spar that the aileron attachment
brackets will be bolted to. I am moving the ailerons
closer to the tips of the wings, so I can omitt the "short" rib
which is a different shape than the rest of the ribs. I scratch built all
of my ribs, so for the sake of simplicity, I did not make the
"short" rib. The result will be a less rounded wing tip,
and Jay (at Javron) refers to this as his "square" wing tip.

When moving the aileron outward, the aileron requires 4 hinges
instead of the traditional 3 (longer aileron). In the photo above, I have the
"4 hinge aileron spar" setting to the left of the rear spar. Using the
original Piper Drawings, I can locate the hole to be drilled
in the rear spar for the hinge at the control horn on the aileron. I then
drilled that hole. I bought the 4-hinge aileron spars from Jay, with
pre-drilled holes for the hinges on the aileron spar. I can now
align, transfer, measure, locate and drill the 3 remaining holes
in the rear wing spar. Long story. I could have had Jay drill these
holes, but at the time when I bought the wing spars, I was unsure
of my final wing (wing tip) design, and I knew that I could figure this out.

spar 2.jpg

The aileron spar is setting next to, and aligned to the rear wing spar. I already
drilled the hole in the rear spar for the hinge bracket. That's the
aileron control horn attached to the aileron spar. The Piper
drawing provides a definite location to place the control horn
location hole in the wing spars.

spar 3.jpg

Aligning and transferring the aileron hinge locations to the rear spar.
The remaining 3 hole locations are not on the Piper drawings as this is not
the stock aileron.

spar 4.jpg

Locating the vertical position of the spar holes on the
rear spar as on the original Piper drawings. Having the aileron
located on the rear spar will allow me to position the wing ribs
at each end of the aileron.

Extra Photo

spar 5.jpg

Dodging a Wisconsin summer pop-up rain storm.

Thank you for looking folks!

john
 

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I am moving the ailerons
closer to the tips of the wings, so I can omitt the "short" rib
which is a different shape than the rest of the ribs. I scratch built all
of my ribs, so for the sake of simplicity, I did not make the
"short" rib. The result will be a less rounded wing tip,
and Jay (at Javron) refers to this as his "square" wing tip.

When moving the aileron outward, the aileron requires 4 hinges
instead of the traditional 3 (longer aileron). In the photo above, I have the
"4 hinge aileron spar" setting to the left of the rear spar. Using the
original Piper Drawings, I can locate the hole to be drilled
in the rear spar for the hinge at the control horn on the aileron. I then
drilled that hole. I bought the 4-hinge aileron spars from Jay, with
pre-drilled holes for the hinges on the aileron spar. I can now
align, transfer, measure, locate and drill the 3 remaining holes
in the rear wing spar. Long story. I could have had Jay drill these
holes, but at the time when I bought the wing spars, I was unsure
of my final wing (wing tip) design, and I knew that I could figure this out.

john
This aileron is pushed out to the tip of the wing with a full sized rib at the tip. Notice there are only 3 hinges. The inboard hinge is the same location as Piper's middle hinge and is where the bellcrank and control cables attach. The length of the aileron is shorter than the original since having moved further outboard it is more effective. I have not found any condition where I wished for more aileron. By shortening the inboard end of the aileron there is room to make the flaps even longer. These flaps are 110" and work great. The shiny piece is a 12" extension beyond the tip of the spars.

attachment.php
 
Builder's Update

Belly Stringer
Wing Tip Bow
Baggage Bulkhead Panel
Bonus Photo


We put the fuselage back onto a rotator to finish up and to get at the welds.1 Rotator.jpg

The scratch built fuselage is finally beginning to look close to completion.


2 inspection panel frame.jpg

I fabricated a 6 inch by 6 inch access cover frame. This is to
access the aileron horn and cables at the torque tube.

3 Belly Stringer.jpg

I fabricated a belly stringer located under the front most floor board.
Charlie welded this in place for me.

4 Stringer.jpg

Here's a photo of the belly stringer attached the the access frame at the torque tube.
I still need to add a fitting on the aft side of the frame to marry the aluminum
belly stringer that will run to the tail of the plane.

5 Wing Tip Bow.jpg

I decided to use thin wall aluminum tubing for wing top bows.
Here I have the first bow bent to shape with the piece of straight
tubing setting there for the second bow.

6 Bender.jpg

I rented and used a conduit bender to bend the wing tip bow tubing.
Recall I used the same type of bender to bend the gentle bends on
the steel fuselage longerons.

7 Bender with Felt.jpg

I placed felt weather seal material on the bender to ensure I didn't
mark the aluminum tubing when bending. I am not sure if this was
needed, but it's cheap insurance.

8 Bending.jpg

Prior to beginning bending, I drew a longitudinal line along the tube.
Simply lay the tubing on the floor, and lay a fat sharpie marker on
the floor and scribe a long line along the length of the tube.
When bending the tube, be sure to keep the bender on the line to
better ensure the bend is always on the same plane.
As you progress along the tube when bending, you can also reference
or align the bent part of the tube to the red handle to better ensure
good results.

9 2 Bent Tubes.jpg

Here's a photo of the two wing tip bows bent alike.
I still need to cut to length on each end.

10 Wing Tip Bow Socket.jpg

I'll fabricate a socket the attach the bow to the rib.
Measuring the angle needed for the socket.

11 Socket.jpg

The socket will get welded to a piece of thin flat steel,
then riveted to the rib. I'll cut out the leading edge of
the socket, as it is not needed. More on this assembly as it develops.

12 Bead Roller.jpg

My new Bead Roller arrived at Northern Tool for me to pick up,
so I started messing with it.

13 Baggage Bulk head.jpg

I made a panel for aft end of the baggage compartment.
This will be riveted in place on the turtle deck bulk head.
The floor is composite which I already showed previously.

Bonus Photos

C-97 Stratofreighter at Don Q Inn.jpg

If you are traveling through Wisconsin, stop in Dodgeville, WI at the Don-Q Inn
to see the C-97 Stratofreighter setting on the front yard.

Stratofreighter Cock Pit.jpg

Cock Pit in the C-97 at Don-Q Inn.
You can find videos on the internet of the story and the landing

Thank you for looking, and for the support,

John
 

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Looking nice, That C-97 would be a treat for me to see. I agree with Sky, yo got the spar, use it. Especially if it is not to late to move the aileron out a bit.
 
Builders Update - Dec. 6, 2020

Belly Stringer
Riveting Aileron Hinges

Aileron Nose Rib Details
I.D. Plate Location
Bonus Photo



Belly Stringer
1 Stringer a.jpg

I last reported the fabrication of the access panel frame under the
Torque Tube. I now have the belly stringer installed from the panel to the tail.
Recall I am using 3/4" dia. thin wall aluminum tubing for the Turtle Deck Stringers,
while the fuselage stringers on the sides and belly are aluminum extrusions I picked
up form Javon Inc in Minnesota.
I attached the belly stringer by fabricating C Channel style saddles welded to the
fuselage tubes. I'll fasten the stringers to the C Channel with cotter pins.
The trailing end of the stringer dies into the fuselage at the aluminum inspection
panel at the the tail.

2 Stringer b.jpg

Here you can see that I used a wood strip as a straight edge to align the
extruded aluminum stringer aft of the Torque Tube inspection panel to the
stringer under the floor boards. The wood flexes well as needed. A small
saddle is welded to access panel for the aluminum stringer to attach.

Back to the Aileron Fabrication
3 Aileron Hinge Riveting.jpg

Although I am scratch building much of my ailerons, I am also
using parts from Javron Inc where practical. Here I am riveting
the aileron hinge to the aileron spar (both bought from Jay at Javron).
His parts are excellent. Solid aluminum rivets are used. Most of the rivets
used for the entire aileron assembly are soft (1100) aluminum, such as
AN470A-A-3-4 rivets while a few are harder aluminum such as AN470AD-4-5.
Refer to the Piper plans to identify rivet types.

4 ribs.jpg

Some, not all of the nose ribs on the ailerons are riveted to the aileron spar as
shown in the photo above of a kit aileron (not my aileron).
Recall, I made my own Aileron Nose Ribs, so I need to drill holes in the ribs to fasten
to the spar.

5 Nose Rib Trimming.jpg

It is important for the riveted ribs to be 3/8" wide, as any excess width will be unsightly
in the finished product. For this reason, I needed to trim some of my nose ribs. I simply
scribed a line on the edge of the rib using a 3/8" thick piece of aluminum stock as a gage,
then trimmed using hand shears. The trimmed edges are then cleaned up on the
bench top belt sander.

8 Trimmed Nose Ribs.jpg

The process is really pretty easy. Here's a pile of needed left and right hand,
3/8" wide nose ribs.

6 Nose Rib Drill Fixture Set.jpg

The few Aileron Nose Ribs that riveted to the Aileron Spar need holes in them.
Here I made a drilling Fixture. I used thin wall aluminum angle due to having
it available.

7 Nose Rib Drill Fixture.jpg

I only need to drill about ten left and ten right hand ribs, so the aluminum fixture
will hold up to the minimum drilling.

I.D. Plate Location
9 Data Plate Reminder.jpg

For you scratch builders and kit builders, don't forget that an Aircraft Identification
Plate is needed to be secured to the air frame. I understand that the plate must be
secured to the exterior of the fuselage, so that it is legible to a person on the ground,
and must be either adjacent to and aft of the rearmost entrance door or on the fuselage
surface near the tail surfaces.
I wrapped the tail area with paper to understand how the fabric will lay. I will
fabricate a steel mounting plate, or tabs and weld it/them to one of the longerons to
accept the I.D. Plate. If welding to the lower longeron, I suppose a person would want
to make sure that water can not collect against/between the longeron tube and the welded
mounted plate. A person could weld the mounting plate/tabs to the top edge of the
lower longeron and place an offset bend in the mounting plate to push it over the inside surface
of the fabric....then rivet the I.D. Plate to the exterior after fabric and paint. I need to buy
a blank I.D. Plate before fabricating the mounting plate.

Bonus Photo

10 Right Base 18 Oshkosh.jpg

Right Down Wind for 18 at Oshkosh in November, 2020
No significant snow yet.

Thanks for looking,

John
 

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Hello John,
I love your SuperCub...great work!!
I'm rebuilding a J-3 Cub in Ireland and am interested in your method of wing rib construction. Many of mine are broken and it costs a fortune to get new ones shipped to Ireland.
Do you have any drawings or dimensions for the intercostal pieces and their placement of the intercostal pieces.?
I hope you can help
Best Regards,
Tom
 
FWIW: Not having planned ahead, I just used a hot glue gun to stick my ID plate to my rear fuselage, 15 years later it's still there.
 
Hello John,
I love your SuperCub...great work!!
I'm rebuilding a J-3 Cub in Ireland and am interested in your method of wing rib construction. Many of mine are broken and it costs a fortune to get new ones shipped to Ireland.
Do you have any drawings or dimensions for the intercostal pieces and their placement of the intercostal pieces.?
I hope you can help
Best Regards,
Tom
Tom,
look here:
The Unofficial PA-18 Drawings Viewer - Terms (supercubproject.com)
 
I glued an aluminum plate inside to my fabric and pop riveted the data plate to the outside through this backup plate.
Data Plate.jpg
 

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Hello John,
I love your SuperCub...great work!!
I'm rebuilding a J-3 Cub in Ireland and am interested in your method of wing rib construction. Many of mine are broken and it costs a fortune to get new ones shipped to Ireland.
Do you have any drawings or dimensions for the intercostal pieces and their placement of the intercostal pieces.?
I hope you can help
Best Regards,
Tom

Hello Tom,
I apologize as I have been away for a while.... Regarding rib design and intercoastal locations, I am building experimental, and I have no resources regarding rib layout. I load tested a couple of ribs that clearly were less strong than the rib I decided to use, as seen in my photos.
The resource Skywagon8a mentions is my primary resource as well, along with a lot of casual research on other experimental rib designs. I actually added an additional intercoastal after the fact, not because I felt it was needed for my mission, but due to the potential that a future owner may treat it like a heavier plane than designed. I used structural solids rivets, and I cannot comment on steel or aluminum pull rivets.
My rib design comes in heavier than the original Piper PA-18 rib. Good luck.
John
 
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