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Thread: Building an Experimental PA11

  1. #321

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gervae View Post
    is it worth the effort tho pull the motor and place on a stand? I fell like it could save some work not pulling it. Thoughts?
    In what way is the stand you would put it on better than the stand it is on now? I don't make a career of pulling cylinders but the ones I have changed were done with the engine on the airplane.

  2. #322
    Doug Budd's Avatar
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    I have had a stuck valve did the rope trick then put a variable speed drill on the end of the valve stem spayed it with sea foam spray and turned it slow to clean up the carbon. It worked. I was going to pull the cylinder but didnít. Ran it for another 100hrs before I over hauled the engine. Donít know if thatís an approved fix but when your stuck in a neighbors alfalfa field you do what you have to.


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  3. #323
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    Drill works good, I use MMO to free it up and then valve gringing compound on the shaft to clean up the guide hole
    Never used Seafoam on anything, have to try it

    Glenn
    Last edited by cubdriver2; 07-18-2021 at 06:21 PM.
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  4. #324

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    Use torque plates and you will be fine.

    (But, please use torque plates.)
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  5. #325
    Doug Budd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Drill works good, I use MMO to free it up and then valve gringing compound on the shaft to clean up the guide hole
    Never used Seafoam on anything, have to try it

    Glenn
    It comes in a spray can to spray in the intake of a engine to clean carbon out. Used it on a s10 pickup worked great


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  6. #326

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    I could not get that exhaust valve to go into the cylinder after I removed the keepers…. I worked it back and forth with lube but it got very tight at the end….then we checked the pushrod and it has a slight wobble. I bought this engine off of a prop strike aircraft…the A&P IA tore it down and had the internals sent in for magnaflux. He install new bearings in the lower end and made a log entry as well as stapled the yellow tags in the book. It is my belief that he did not disassemble the cylinders. I bought it cheap so I have decided to put a new top end on this…I spent all this time and money building a plane…no sense skimping here. Also, these are old serial number cylinders, so timing has to be set to 24 degrees to stop the cracking issues that plagued these units…I will now be able to reset the timing back to 28 degrees which should help give me a tiny bit more power. I’ll clean the cylinders I replace all up and put them on my shelf….I think they may even work on my C 90-12F on my floatplane?? Anyway…after Lycon said prices are going way up….$700 per jug on TCM models, I decided to go this route. I had considered souping up a bit with higher compression ratio and some porting. I’m going to go this route for now….maybe when my I start setting up my floats next spring I’ll have some work done while I’m building the rigging.
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  7. #327

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    I pulled the motor, removed all four jugs…the valve that stuck was starting to burn…would not have lasted too long. I will assemble with 4 new cylinders tomorrow using the torquing process as if assembling a new engine. I’m glad I listened to my motor trying to tell me something. About 35 hrs ago the compressions were all in the mid/high 70s…this valve started leaking a while back by the looks of it.
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    the guide was full of crud too. The other three looked better, but one had white powdery soot…(lead) ?? Lean? Cam lobes look good.

  8. #328

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    that was a fun day. I got all the baffles on, timed back to 28 degrees (no more old cylinder service bulletin) I’ll look it over good after a good nights sleep and away we go….back in business. I like the way Superior Millenniums Are made…and they come nicely packaged….nice job. Hope they last a long long time.

  9. #329
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    More power too. Good Job Dan. Very positive.

    Gary
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  10. #330

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    Waiting for rain to quit so I can test fly, but I gained almost 75rpm on static run up. More than expected.

  11. #331
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gervae View Post
    Waiting for rain to quit so I can test fly, but I gained almost 75rpm on static run up. More than expected.
    Probably more when they break in

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  12. #332

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    Hope all is good now for you. Here's a couple pics of my engine only thing I need now is a new crank 8-12 weeks out, slick mags a few weeks out, and hopefully that is the last of the big $$$ items. Plan to put wings on next week so I can finish trim and plumb the fuel lines.
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  13. #333

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    Nice red color ….love it

  14. #334

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gervae View Post
    I could not get that exhaust valve to go into the cylinder after I removed the keepers…. I worked it back and forth with lube but it got very tight at the end….then we checked the pushrod and it has a slight wobble. I bought this engine off of a prop strike aircraft…the A&P IA tore it down and had the internals sent in for magnaflux. He install new bearings in the lower end and made a log entry as well as stapled the yellow tags in the book. It is my belief that he did not disassemble the cylinders. I bought it cheap so I have decided to put a new top end on this…I spent all this time and money building a plane…no sense skimping here. Also, these are old serial number cylinders, so timing has to be set to 24 degrees to stop the cracking issues that plagued these units…I will now be able to reset the timing back to 28 degrees which should help give me a tiny bit more power. I’ll clean the cylinders I replace all up and put them on my shelf….I think they may even work on my C 90-12F on my floatplane?? Anyway…after Lycon said prices are going way up….$700 per jug on TCM models, I decided to go this route. I had considered souping up a bit with higher compression ratio and some porting. I’m going to go this route for now….maybe when my I start setting up my floats next spring I’ll have some work done while I’m building the rigging.
    After you torque them, go back the next day and torque them again! You will be surprised how much they loosen up overnight, Takes a while for the case and cylinders to settle in and hold torque.
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  15. #335
    Doug Budd's Avatar
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    A nice mod to the small continental engines is the real gaskets of Tennassee push rod tubes. I put them on mine and no more oil leaks and the customer service is out of this world. Chris is very helpful for all your questions.


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  16. #336

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    I got my wings installed last week have most fairings built big problem now is FWF hope to have the new crank by the end of the month should give me enough time to do all the small things I have left. Weighed on bathroom scales yesterday ( I know they weigh heavy because I can't weigh what they say:<) ) came in at 615# heavier than I wanted as I've been annal about weight so far only thing missing in the weight is seats, engine, exhaust and prop. engine is a c90-8 plane has 8 inches more wingspan than my 11 does a second 18 gallon wing tank, extended baggage.
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