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Trim indicator wire broke

PerryB

PerryB

FRIEND
Chico, CA
It appears to be approx .020 music wire and broke where it goes over the pulley above the front tube of the H. stab
I'm thinking about just splicing in the last 18 inches or so with one of the high strength braded fishing lines, like 80 lb. Spiderwire or similar. Any reason this wouldn't be a good fix ? Thankfully I have the removable tail acess panel under the front of the stab., approx 18 inches long. ---Why aren't these standard equipment?
 
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And not one remark about this sounding fishy.
I think I'm going to try the Spiderwire. What the heck, if it fails its an easy do-over. The hardest part was fishing (there's that word again) it out of the forward empenage. The spring caused it to fly forward and pile up against the rear wall of the baggage compartment. Thanks.
 
sageelite said:
.02 stainless wire would durable.
Click to expand...

It has a small pulley (approx 20mm) that the wire wraps 90 degrees around and this is where it broke. I'm going to use a fluorocarbon fiber, non stretching string. Its only under 3 or 4 lbs. of tension.
 
Perry, the coated fishing leader that Mike mentioned has been working just great for me. Easy to crimp the terminations too.
 
Coated fishingwire. Works great, price even better. Throw it away when it's time and replace simply. Comes with crimps.
 
Ok, I'll hit my friends sporting store tomorrow. I think the hardware store has coated 1/32 cable as well.
When the thing broke I was taking off from a loose dirt/gravel strip and I heard a noticeble "ping". My first thought was a rock through the prop and I was pretty ticked. A few minutes into the flight I noticed the trim indicator and was actually happy because I realized what the noise was. For the time being I stretched the cable back about an inch and tied it off to a piece of tubing in the tail. Visually, it looks good because the indicator is just about where it normally sits, just doesn't work!
 
PerryB said:
You win, I surrender! !:p
Seriously thanks to all for the input. Its fixed with coated leader and I even managed to get it properly centered.
Click to expand...


I used the leader line also. But what I did instead of running it in one section from the front to the back, was to make it in two sections and made it so there was about a 5 inch gap between the front section and back section. Then I used safety-wire between the gap which allowed me to get the travel exactly where I wanted it. It worked out pretty good.
 
Thats a really good idea. I had my sons helping so they could watch the indicator button and tell me when to squeeze the connector.
 
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