Excellent idea, just remember that "all AN bolts" are not created equal. The relationship between the face of the hex and the OD of the grip is not always exactly the same and symmetrical. If these tabs are tight for one bolt, the next bolt may or may not fit.Originally Posted by behindpropellers
N1PA
Well it has been a while. Finished the recover of this Clipped Winged Cub.
Repaired this damaged Pacer.
Completed the rebuild on this Super Cub.
Completed my usual annual and condition inspections and have gone from 4 employees to none. I am now getting back to Super Cub 91246 full time. I have some pictures to catch up on since my daughter got everything covered except the fuselage before she and her husband moved out of town. I will try and catch up the progress in both pictures and dialog and keep this thread up as the airplane comes together. Thankfully Jason has been a very understanding owner.
For some reason the last two Super Cubs I have rebuilt have had this issue of the bottom of the fuel tank rubbing on the channel brace between the butt rib and the front spar. The short wing aircraft have felt glued on these channels. Because of this the last time I order felt a got a roll of 3/8" and 1/2" to glue to these channels.
We stripped the paint in the damaged ares and my welder buddy welded them up and welded the front fuel pick up bung into the right wing tank for the Dakota Cub header less fuel system STC.
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Dakota has a headerless fuel system?
Yes, it incorporates their vented gas caps, machined gascolator and fuel valve. Their fuel valve has the stops machined into the valve to meet the FAA requirements to only go to off one way. Doesn't need the two bolts and bushings installed on the fuel valve cover like Cub Crafters.
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Joes turned out great, love the paint job. It's one of my favorite schemes
He was a happy camper. Took some time to get him up to speed on the CGR30P and the Trig radios. The paint scheme took a lot of head scratching but I like that year model as well. Now Eaton has someone to blame when he gets a phone call from the Feds.
Cool interior selections, must have hired a designer
Remember, These are the Good old Days!
Yep, that would be the collaboration between you and Tabitha. Joe did say that coming down and seeing your Super Cub when it was done cost him a lot of money. Up until that point it was suppose to be just a recover. I always say there is what you know needs to be done, what you find when you get it apart and the "while we are here we might as well..."Cool interior selections, must have hired a designer
Forgot vernier mixture.
I prefer the A-740 ratchet cable. Doesn't crepe and doesn't protrude so far back behind the panel before it can turn. I use them on mixture, carburetor heat, cabin heat and cabin air. Some like the vernier but it is still a carbureted unequal length intake tubed O-320.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...clickkey=28423
I'm a big fan of how the red/white one (Joe's?) turned out!
Joe's cub is indeed as nice in person as it is in the pics. Not sure anything could be improved on the panel. Even with a lot of the small mods it still looks like a stock -18 which is what Joe wanted.....just needs bigger tires and I am holding on to a set of 100hr 31"s hoping to one day convert him to the dark side!
Can you school me on the iPad mount, software app that he is running, and supporting hardware that is required to run this system?
RAM EZ Roll'r Mount and Foreflight software.
Software is ForeFlight. To run the attitude indicator like he is requires a Stratus 2S or a homebuilt Stratux with an AHRS module. Not sure on the mount.
Actually, the display says "no attitude information." Either no AHRS or it is turned off. You can still get the synthetic vision without the Stratus.
"Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"
So we got back from a great trip to Johnson Creek and I am back on the Super Cub. been going through all the parts that were tagged and bagged when we disassembled the airplane. Got the steel parts blasted, epoxy primed and then top coated with polyurethane. Then made huge list to order from both Aircraft Spruce and Univair. Over the years with the disassembly of 5 original, never recovered Super Cubs and all the drawings I have collected I have come up with a pretty good hardware list for each assembly as noted in each page of my Super Cub parts manual. So I have been assembling sub-assemblies and putting all the new hardware in bags to go with the others parts and putting it in my parts cabinet. I hate looking for parts. Since I got back Sac (Sneak Attack Cat) was a bit lonely, curious and wanted some attention or perhaps just to help.
Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogersnightflyer liked this post
Rudder pedals were worn where the springs wrap around pretty good for 1600 hours.
I have welded a tube inside the tube but we decided to replace the pedals along with the return springs since they tend to wear at the radius and break. Had a Super Cub here on Sunday with 2000 hrs with a broken rudder return spring.
The later model Super Cubs had the short stick used in the rear in the front as well. Ordered a new front, long stick from Dakota Cub. It is a bit tight on the stick stub so I had to use a flapper wheel to clean out a little material to get the two to fit together. Then I took the stick up to my buddy Lan at Young County Machine to drill the hole in the stick on his mill. Fit perfect, not reaming required. Don't know what I would do without Lan half a block up the street.
A while back I took the Super Cub floor board drawings and tweaked them to the actual dimensions from original floor boards. Not sure why the drawing is wrong but since tweaking the drawings I get Lan to water jet them out of marine grade plywood. I need to modify the drawing for the seat belt brackets to the floor mod so I don't have to cut those holes by hand. I use an old floor board with big holes cut for the seat belt attach to make a tempkate.
I clamp plywood to the top side of the floorboards once installed and back drill the holes for the attachment tabs, rudder and brake pedals.
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Steve
Thank you for posting all the pictures and the info, it's great for those of us trying to learn about Supercubs. I appreciate the time that you have given.
Bill
Very Blessed.
Looks great Steve! Love the panel in Joe's plane. Nice and simple!
Temporarily installed the trim system and the flap control system so I can install the Dakota Cub headerless fuel system and the F. Atlee Dodge large extended baggage and make sure I don't have any interference. The fuel system was straight forward as I have installed several Cub Crafters headerless fuel systems. The one thing Dakota does is calls out Adel clamps or welded tabs to secure the fuel lines to fuselage structure. I am going to eliminate the clamps on the fuselage with weld on tabs. I have everything installed temporarily with Adel clamps on the fuselage tubing.
I am replacing the steel and brass Weatherhead fittings with AN fittings. This one bend is kind of a pain to get with the nut and ferrule in place but not enough room to flare if bent prior flaring the tube.
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Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will RogersBill Rusk thanked for this post
I thought about using AN815 unions instead of the rubber hose but after talking to Mark at Dakota Cub we concluded some flex in the system might be good.
I installed the Dakota Cub STC to move the rear seat aft and like every modification it effected something else. It took up the space where Piper ran the fuel line from the right tank forward to the fuel valve, over the 1/2" channel that spaces the side panel off the upper longerons enough to give enough clearance for the trim cables. I had to get creative with my spring type tubing bender to snake the fuel line in between the two rear seat fittings.
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With the fuel lines installed I started on the extended baggage. We had already welded the channels in per the STC and I duplicated the trim pulley brackets from the rear of the standard baggage to the rear of the extended baggage to eliminate the trim cable rubbing on the back if the extended baggage.
Didn't take into account changing the geometry would effect the next set of pulleys. Everything you change seems to effect several more things.
Will have to move those pulley brackets over.
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Last edited by Steve Pierce; 07-15-2017 at 05:15 PM.
The Atlee Dodge STC really doesn't say much about the baggage compartment after the welding is done other than that the floor and back panel shall be a minimum thickness of .020" 2024-T3 aluminum or similar material. I used .020" for the floor and aft panel and .016" for the sides. The problem I foresaw was the side panel interfering with the trim cable. I thought about making a tunnel for the trim cable to run in but then as I looked how Piper offset the side panel in the standard baggage I figured out I could do the extended baggage the same way. I had some 1/2" U channel like Piper used in the baggage compartment and it stood the side panel off perfectly. Will weld it in along with some tabs to attach the side panels to.
Stock baggage standoff stitch welded to the top longeron.
My 1/2" U channels temporarily taped in place while fitting the baggage walls.
Thinking about maybe running the trim indicator wire through some nylon tubing along the baggage compartment.
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Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
I really enjoy the fabrication part of a Super Cub build. I ended up cutting out for the trim pulleys where they protrude into the extended baggage compartment and will hammer out some blisters on the shop bag to cover them up in thr end. This gives maximum space with the least amount of protrusions for snagging sleeping bags etc. Since we are installing a baggage pod I figure the extended baggage will be for light stuff keeping the CG further forward with the heavier stuff in the pod.
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Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
Since it is summer time in Texas I get a chance to spray in the morning before it gets too hot. Got all the small steel parts primed and painted and now spraying the ailerons and flaps. Got two coats on and can start the silver tomorrow.
Just wish I had the energy of these two. They wear each other out and then go nap.
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I guess you just nap without wearing yourself out.Since it is summer time in Texas I get a chance to spray in the morning before it gets too hot. Got all the small steel parts primed and painted and now spraying the ailerons and flaps. Got two coats on and can start the silver tomorrow.
Just wish I had the energy of these two. They wear each other out and then go nap.
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Bob, I can't nap, gotta get some work done since I went to Johnson Creek and am going to Oshkosh.
Shot silver this morning as I played on the gravel bars too late yesterday morning and it got up past 90 degrees before I got back.
Since a paint can has 7" of fluid in it and Poly-Spray is mixed 4 to 1 I divided 7 by 5 and made a mixing stick. I always keep an empty can so I can shake up a can of Poly-Spray and pour it into an empty can up to the first mark carved into my stick and then pour reducer up to the second mark.
Got one cross coat sprayed and have very little to fiddle with prior to the next cross coat. Wish my daughter would come back to cover, she had it down really good.
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Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
That is a great idea for mixing silver Steve!
We are installing Dakota Cub brake master cylinders because I really like not having to mess with adding and taking away fluid like you do on the sealed brake systems. This airplane had Pete's brake boosters the Airframes now sells, installed. When they were installed the installer removed the parking brake valves. Those things have gotten pricey since Scott no longer wants to sell them, Univair does have them PMA'd though. I contacted the mechanic that previously took care of 91246 and he still had the parking brake vales and shipped them to me. Appears they cut the brass close nipple that connects the stock brake to the parking brake valve with a hacksaw. Luckily an easy out got what was left of the nipple out and a pin wrench allowed me to remove the parking brake valve from the other brake back. I will disassemble and install new o'rings prior to installation.
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I wasted quite a bit of time because I thought I knew what the STC for the Performance Aeromotive big baggage door said. I thought I was being smart and gonna save a bunch of weight by framing the baggage door opening out of aluminum with some strategically placed tabs welded in. Got all the aluminum pieces cut, formed and fit and was pretty proud of myself till that evening when I got to thinking about it and texted a friend who has been doing the same mod on his Super Cub. He texted me the instructions and I had one of those head slapping moments. The good thing was that the aluminum parts made great patterns for the parts to be made out of .032" steel and it made quick work of it. I plan on taking the time to read and not try and go off of memory anymore.
Weighed the parts, not icluding the tubing change or the door I am adding 1 lb 5 oz. in the door opening frame itself and another 1.4 oz. for the 7 Southco receptacles.
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Boy, that is going to be a great mod. Love the size. Great work Steve
Bill
Very Blessed.
Been working on several different things on 91246 since returning from Oshkosh. Using the original interior panels to figure out where they didn't fit very well. Biggest issue I see is at the bottom where they meet the floorboards. In some areas they go under the floorboards, others above.
I have installed all the panels, taken a scribe and scribed a line parallel to the floorboards and then sheared them off there. I then intend to install an angle on the bottom of the panel that will also fasten to the floorboard. This along with some other modifications I hope to keep the sand and grit out from under the floorboards. This is a huge problem on my own Super Cub as pointed out by a savvy passenger the other day even though I did clean it out a few months ago.
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I have been laying out the instrument panel and electrical system. The panel will consist of a large open area in the middle for an iPad with a Electronics International CGR30P engine instrument, Trig TY91 radio with built in intercom, TT22 transponder with built in encoder wired into a TN70 ADSB system and a 2 1/4" digital attitude indicator.
The circuit breakers and switches will be in the panel and I intend to use circuit breaker switches where possible so I don't have to install and switch and separate circuit breaker. Have used this method on the last several Super Cubs I have built and it has worked very well.
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Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
Like this one?
"Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"
Steve:
I have done similar to what you are describing with the center open for the iPad. All of the brain box stuff for the CGR and the encoder is located on the back of the panel and is easy to access.
I chose to use the 9 inch iPad Pro as it has the best screen for use in bright light.
Also wanted to also be able to switch to other devices without having to hang them all over the place. The iPad is mounted with a modified tablet carrier with a section of aluminum hinge at the top. I can install or remove the pad in seconds by pulling the hinge pin and place it in the same folding carrier to take with me. Using the same hinge affair I will be making a separate flat plate that I can mount a GPS or iPhone or anything to and also remove easily.
The radios are all Garmin and the GTX 345 will supply attitude info to the Garmin Pilot app.
This is my long term project that is nearing completion; and of which I chose years ago to go with the square CC panel design. It has since been changed in layout for what you see.
The all switch breaker electrical is up high as I am afraid that my big feet would damage anything mounted low. The entire breaker section is removable if needed.
It is amazing how much lighter things are when you get rid of all of the gyros, pumps and hoses.
Sounds almost just like my panel. With the circuit breaker switches it was really simple to wire. I went with the Ipad mini 4 in a IFDR panel mount. The mount comes out with 4 screws and then I have complete access to the back side of the panel for future wiring upgrades or issues.
This is with the mount out for wiring
This is with everything in place a few days ago.
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