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Super Cub 91246 Rebuild

A while back I took the Super Cub floor board drawings and tweaked them to the actual dimensions from original floor boards. Not sure why the drawing is wrong but since tweaking the drawings I get Lan to water jet them out of marine grade plywood. I need to modify the drawing for the seat belt brackets to the floor mod so I don't have to cut those holes by hand. I use an old floor board with big holes cut for the seat belt attach to make a tempkate.
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I clamp plywood to the top side of the floorboards once installed and back drill the holes for the attachment tabs, rudder and brake pedals.

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Steve


Thank you for posting all the pictures and the info, it's great for those of us trying to learn about Supercubs. I appreciate the time that you have given.


Bill
 
Temporarily installed the trim system and the flap control system so I can install the Dakota Cub headerless fuel system and the F. Atlee Dodge large extended baggage and make sure I don't have any interference. The fuel system was straight forward as I have installed several Cub Crafters headerless fuel systems. The one thing Dakota does is calls out Adel clamps or welded tabs to secure the fuel lines to fuselage structure. I am going to eliminate the clamps on the fuselage with weld on tabs. I have everything installed temporarily with Adel clamps on the fuselage tubing.
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I am replacing the steel and brass Weatherhead fittings with AN fittings. This one bend is kind of a pain to get with the nut and ferrule in place but not enough room to flare if bent prior flaring the tube.
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I thought about using AN815 unions instead of the rubber hose but after talking to Mark at Dakota Cub we concluded some flex in the system might be good.
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I installed the Dakota Cub STC to move the rear seat aft and like every modification it effected something else. It took up the space where Piper ran the fuel line from the right tank forward to the fuel valve, over the 1/2" channel that spaces the side panel off the upper longerons enough to give enough clearance for the trim cables. I had to get creative with my spring type tubing bender to snake the fuel line in between the two rear seat fittings.
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With the fuel lines installed I started on the extended baggage. We had already welded the channels in per the STC and I duplicated the trim pulley brackets from the rear of the standard baggage to the rear of the extended baggage to eliminate the trim cable rubbing on the back if the extended baggage.
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Didn't take into account changing the geometry would effect the next set of pulleys. Everything you change seems to effect several more things. ;)
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Will have to move those pulley brackets over.

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The Atlee Dodge STC really doesn't say much about the baggage compartment after the welding is done other than that the floor and back panel shall be a minimum thickness of .020" 2024-T3 aluminum or similar material. I used .020" for the floor and aft panel and .016" for the sides. The problem I foresaw was the side panel interfering with the trim cable. I thought about making a tunnel for the trim cable to run in but then as I looked how Piper offset the side panel in the standard baggage I figured out I could do the extended baggage the same way. I had some 1/2" U channel like Piper used in the baggage compartment and it stood the side panel off perfectly. Will weld it in along with some tabs to attach the side panels to.

Stock baggage standoff stitch welded to the top longeron.

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My 1/2" U channels temporarily taped in place while fitting the baggage walls.
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Thinking about maybe running the trim indicator wire through some nylon tubing along the baggage compartment.
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I really enjoy the fabrication part of a Super Cub build. I ended up cutting out for the trim pulleys where they protrude into the extended baggage compartment and will hammer out some blisters on the shop bag to cover them up in thr end. This gives maximum space with the least amount of protrusions for snagging sleeping bags etc. Since we are installing a baggage pod I figure the extended baggage will be for light stuff keeping the CG further forward with the heavier stuff in the pod.
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Since it is summer time in Texas I get a chance to spray in the morning before it gets too hot. Got all the small steel parts primed and painted and now spraying the ailerons and flaps. Got two coats on and can start the silver tomorrow.
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Just wish I had the energy of these two. They wear each other out and then go nap.
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Since it is summer time in Texas I get a chance to spray in the morning before it gets too hot. Got all the small steel parts primed and painted and now spraying the ailerons and flaps. Got two coats on and can start the silver tomorrow.
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Just wish I had the energy of these two. They wear each other out and then go nap.
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I guess you just nap without wearing yourself out.
 
Bob, I can't nap, gotta get some work done since I went to Johnson Creek and am going to Oshkosh.

Shot silver this morning as I played on the gravel bars too late yesterday morning and it got up past 90 degrees before I got back.
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Since a paint can has 7" of fluid in it and Poly-Spray is mixed 4 to 1 I divided 7 by 5 and made a mixing stick. I always keep an empty can so I can shake up a can of Poly-Spray and pour it into an empty can up to the first mark carved into my stick and then pour reducer up to the second mark.
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Got one cross coat sprayed and have very little to fiddle with prior to the next cross coat. Wish my daughter would come back to cover, she had it down really good.
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We are installing Dakota Cub brake master cylinders because I really like not having to mess with adding and taking away fluid like you do on the sealed brake systems. This airplane had Pete's brake boosters the Airframes now sells, installed. When they were installed the installer removed the parking brake valves. Those things have gotten pricey since Scott no longer wants to sell them, Univair does have them PMA'd though. I contacted the mechanic that previously took care of 91246 and he still had the parking brake vales and shipped them to me. Appears they cut the brass close nipple that connects the stock brake to the parking brake valve with a hacksaw. Luckily an easy out got what was left of the nipple out and a pin wrench allowed me to remove the parking brake valve from the other brake back. I will disassemble and install new o'rings prior to installation.
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I wasted quite a bit of time because I thought I knew what the STC for the Performance Aeromotive big baggage door said. I thought I was being smart and gonna save a bunch of weight by framing the baggage door opening out of aluminum with some strategically placed tabs welded in. Got all the aluminum pieces cut, formed and fit and was pretty proud of myself till that evening when I got to thinking about it and texted a friend who has been doing the same mod on his Super Cub. He texted me the instructions and I had one of those head slapping moments. The good thing was that the aluminum parts made great patterns for the parts to be made out of .032" steel and it made quick work of it. I plan on taking the time to read and not try and go off of memory anymore.
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Weighed the parts, not icluding the tubing change or the door I am adding 1 lb 5 oz. in the door opening frame itself and another 1.4 oz. for the 7 Southco receptacles.

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Been working on several different things on 91246 since returning from Oshkosh. Using the original interior panels to figure out where they didn't fit very well. Biggest issue I see is at the bottom where they meet the floorboards. In some areas they go under the floorboards, others above.
I have installed all the panels, taken a scribe and scribed a line parallel to the floorboards and then sheared them off there. I then intend to install an angle on the bottom of the panel that will also fasten to the floorboard. This along with some other modifications I hope to keep the sand and grit out from under the floorboards. This is a huge problem on my own Super Cub as pointed out by a savvy passenger the other day even though I did clean it out a few months ago.

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I have been laying out the instrument panel and electrical system. The panel will consist of a large open area in the middle for an iPad with a Electronics International CGR30P engine instrument, Trig TY91 radio with built in intercom, TT22 transponder with built in encoder wired into a TN70 ADSB system and a 2 1/4" digital attitude indicator.

The circuit breakers and switches will be in the panel and I intend to use circuit breaker switches where possible so I don't have to install and switch and separate circuit breaker. Have used this method on the last several Super Cubs I have built and it has worked very well.

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Steve:
I have done similar to what you are describing with the center open for the iPad. All of the brain box stuff for the CGR and the encoder is located on the back of the panel and is easy to access.
I chose to use the 9 inch iPad Pro as it has the best screen for use in bright light.
Also wanted to also be able to switch to other devices without having to hang them all over the place. The iPad is mounted with a modified tablet carrier with a section of aluminum hinge at the top. I can install or remove the pad in seconds by pulling the hinge pin and place it in the same folding carrier to take with me. Using the same hinge affair I will be making a separate flat plate that I can mount a GPS or iPhone or anything to and also remove easily.
The radios are all Garmin and the GTX 345 will supply attitude info to the Garmin Pilot app.
This is my long term project that is nearing completion; and of which I chose years ago to go with the square CC panel design. It has since been changed in layout for what you see.
The all switch breaker electrical is up high as I am afraid that my big feet would damage anything mounted low. The entire breaker section is removable if needed.
It is amazing how much lighter things are when you get rid of all of the gyros, pumps and hoses.
 

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I have been laying out the instrument panel and electrical system. The panel will consist of a large open area in the middle for an iPad with a Electronics International CGR30P engine instrument, Trig TY91 radio with built in intercom, TT22 transponder with built in encoder wired into a TN70 ADSB system and a 2 1/4" digital attitude indicator.

The circuit breakers and switches will be in the panel and I intend to use circuit breaker switches where possible so I don't have to install and switch and separate circuit breaker. Have used this method on the last several Super Cubs I have built and it has worked very well.

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Sounds almost just like my panel. With the circuit breaker switches it was really simple to wire. I went with the Ipad mini 4 in a IFDR panel mount. The mount comes out with 4 screws and then I have complete access to the back side of the panel for future wiring upgrades or issues.

This is with the mount out for wiring

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This is with everything in place a few days ago.


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I have installed all the panels, taken a scribe and scribed a line parallel to the floorboards and then sheared them off there. I then intend to install an angle on the bottom of the panel that will also fasten to the floorboard. ..

bend angle (up) into aluminum floor board edge is simplest and lightest, and keeps the crud contained...
 
In a pinch a strip of adhesive backed foam tape works wonders, I put a dam all the way across in front of the front seat base and it stops the crud migration.
 
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I have two issues to contend with. One is the trim indicator wire breaking which is pretty common and the fact that the wire routing is not in line with the indicator cutout so it tends to wallow out the indicator groove. The other issue was routing the indicator wire around the extended baggage. My Dad used an old 1/16" trim cable in his Clipper and that was my thinking along with some nylon tubing to route it through. Then I read Clyde Smith's article in the Cub Clues about the same and reminded me of the sheath that the Pacer/Tri-Pacer trim indicator wire runs through. I aligned a clamp to hold the indicator sheath so that it was in line with the indicator groove and used the indicator from Dakota Cub that used a removable screw instead of a fixed rivet.
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I routed the nylon sheath along the trim cable and exited through my ELT/GPS ground plane with another clamp.
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I crimped electrical connectors onto the cable instead of wrapping the wire around itself like Piper did.
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I have two issues to contend with. One is the trim indicator wire breaking which is pretty common and the fact that the wire routing is not in line with the indicator cutout so it tends to wallow out the indicator groove. The other issue was routing the indicator wire around the extended baggage. My Dad used an old 1/16" trim cable in his Clipper and that was my thinking along with some nylon tubing to route it through. Then I read Clyde Smith's article in the Cub Clues about the same and reminded me of the sheath that the Pacer/Tri-Pacer trim indicator wire runs through. I aligned a clamp to hold the indicator sheath so that it was in line with the indicator groove and used the indicator from Dakota Cub that used a removable screw instead of a fixed rivet.
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I routed the nylon sheath along the trim cable and exited through my ELT/GPS ground plane with another clamp.
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I crimped electrical connectors onto the cable instead of wrapping the wire around itself like Piper did.
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I cut a piece of tubing and used the same phenolic type gromet that piper used and put it about the rear trim pulleys, basically copying the factory pulleys and indicator set up
 
I cut a piece of tubing and used the same phenolic type gromet that piper used and put it about the rear trim pulleys, basically copying the factory pulleys and indicator set up
I probably should have just used the stock parts at the next station but the trim indicator wire angle bugged me. I hate fixing those when they break and think the 1/16" cable will eliminate that problem. Hopefully I didn't create another problem I can't foresee.
 
I don't like the original throttle panel because like a lot of the sheet metal on a Super Cub, Piper used 3003 aluminum which forms very easily but dents and tears easy as well. I like to make them out of 2024-T3 with some reinforcement where they tend to bend and crack at the corners of the cutouts for the throttle handles. I think installing the panel between the longeron and window frame is part of the problem as well.

Since it is 56" long it has to be cut and bent with the grain but being .020" I have not had an issue with cracking using a decent set back on the brake.
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Nice to have the drawing because a lot of these panels are in rough shape. Did find a few minor discrepancies.
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I had a little help as well. She thinks the pencil is a toy especially when being used.
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I use to bend the little tab that stiffens the throttle cut out but like making a longer doubler to reinforce the radius where the crack. I made a U channel and flush riveted it in.

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Fit good and slides in and out without bending. Helped that I rand a blade in the groove between the longeron and bottom of window frame to clean it out for easier installation.
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