View attachment 17253Hi everyone, As you guys can see from this side shot of my J3, the angle from the float deck to wing is pretty flat. As Ron has mentioned, I'm having to walk the plane off most times. I'm leaning towards shortening the rear and diagonal to correct this. Thanks for all the opinions. Jeff
This may be a clue to the better performance of the 1320s. With the thrust line moment to the bottom of the floats being greater on the 1400s, the drag component could have a greater effect on the performance. There would be a requirement for more up elevator on the 1400 airplane to counteract the extra moment. To counteract this it may be advantageous to add ballast/baggage to pull the CG more aft....Plus his lower 1320s helped his plane step-turn much better.
The higher struts on the EDO 1400s gave more propeller clearance in rougher water and did not throw water up on the windshield. .
That and also that the EDO 1400s are longer in the after body of the floats. Thus more prone to tail drag unless the proper water departure technique is employed.
Somewhat like the difference when flying a C-180 on EDO 2960s versus flying a C-180 on EDO 2870s...
Are the covers just the old 1/4 turn to remove? If so skip the pump outs. Make sure the floats are tight before you put them together. You won't need pump outs. If you still want to put them in, get the spun aluminum cups from Kenmore. The plastic ones wear out and leak. Do not put them in the caps as it will be difficult to be certain the suction hose is properly located. If they are not positioned properly you will think that the compartment is pumped out and there still could be a lot of water in there.Place them in the deck over the lowest point of the compartment.Any preference on the pump out locations, saw one set that had them on the covers, seems like that would be the quickest way to install.
Thanks
Tom
Are the covers just the old 1/4 turn to remove? If so skip the pump outs. Make sure the floats are tight before you put them together. You won't need pump outs. If you still want to put them in, get the spun aluminum cups from Kenmore. The plastic ones wear out and leak. Do not put them in the caps as it will be difficult to be certain the suction hose is properly located. If they are not positioned properly you will think that the compartment is pumped out and there still could be a lot of water in there.Place them in the deck over the lowest point of the compartment.
Quick question, anyone happen to have written down the bolt length for attaching for the clamps to the spreaders, or struts to the floats? It would save some time measuring them. Also, is there a source for the brace wires? Called kenmore/edo and they don't stock or make them. Mine are pitted pretty bad. Any preference on the pump out locations, saw one set that had them on the covers, seems like that would be the quickest way to install.
Thanks
Tom
I bought a set of the aluminum ones from Kenmore for my 185. I doubt they were anywhere near that much. Do you have a lathe? Perhaps it is time to learn spinning? Once you get the knack for it, you can whip them out quickly.Edo wants $10 for the plastic, but $70 for aluminum. Lake and air has the aluminum for $11
I wonder what did happen with the parts which Raceway (Motors?) had? Maybe Rich on LI knows? Raceway used to make new 1400s with some poor quality castings and invalid data plates. Someone absconded with some later EDO-AIR data tag blanks which Raceway used for his "new" floats, strictly illegal. I was told by JJ Frey of EDO that they wished they had not sold him those parts.