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Fuel Shutt Off Valve on a Citabria

epeltier

Registered User
Fairbanks, AK
I have a 1969 Citabria 7KCAB and the fuel valve leaks when moved, and the handle is directly on the valve. Which my mechanic told me is not legal. I have a rod and u joint to install but found out the tip of the stem on the fuel valve is cracked were to pin goes through it to hold the u joint on. I can't find any info on this fuel valve. I know they don't make them anymore. Does anyone have any information on rebuilding the stem? I have a new o-ring and some fuel lube coming from rainbow flying service.
 
O yeah also does anyone have a recommendation on recovering the wings in Fairbanks, AK. I was told this winter they will need to be recovered. I would really like to find someone that would let me help with the recover to gain some experience with fabric.
 
I have contacted American Champion and they said they have an upgraded one that they only put on there new aircraft and to sell me one would be around $600 and would require a field approval.
 
If that's what American Champion recommends, I'd probably bite the bullet and go there. A bad fuel valve sucks....

You might try Steve Conatser at Chena Marina. I don't know if he would let you help or not, and I don't know if he works on planes other than cubs, but he does a great job.

MTV
 
Been there done that in a 73 7gcbc. They dont support the old parts anymore, the valve was 350 a few years ago. The new oring and fuel lube trick didnt work for me.
Good advice from MTV. Chad at ACA is a good guy.

jim
 
I feel like i don't need a new one. the old one only leaks alittle fuel (won't even develop a drop) when side pressure is applied. My main concern is the tip of the valve stem is cracked and with the new u joint and rod connected to it it will not turn the valve. Hopefully the new o-ring and fuel lube will make it easier to close (Its really hard with the handle directly connected to the valve probably do to it never being turned in the last 40 years) . I was thinking of maybe brazing some brass on the tip and drilling a new hole for the pin with the stem removed from the valve of course. Also is there any tricks to draining the tanks? I know to be sure to ground the airplane to the container but have never drained tanks before.
 
Burl's Aircraft LLC has replacement fuel valves for Aeronca & American Champion aircraft.

Ron
 
All good info. The Cubs have problems like that too - sometimes you have to lap the fuel valve before lubricating it. The stunning thing is that many of these valves are modified hardware store items (or automotive products). The modification is generally a pin and a slot, converting a valve to a quarter-turn device.

That mod converts the valve from a $9.95 part to a $150 part.

I agree that ACA is more than happy to help on the phone. Those guys are great! The reason they can afford to chat with you is that they charge real money for parts and drawings. My impression of Burl is that he is an honest guy who won't try to rip you off.

As to the field approval, if ACA is using a valve on your model aircraft, that means it is already approved for your model aircraft.
 
Anybody ever seen this one? I don't know why i get involved in these. Need to stick with what i know. This is on a 7ECA Citabria. Lots of logbook entries on lubing the old valve but nothing documenting this.
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A search for "Post-War Aeronca Champ Fuel Shutoff Valves" turns up a paper on rebuilding similar valves but may not be the same as the one you have.
 
Every time I’ve seen this Scout over the last 2 years, something about the tail number seemed familiar. Wasn’t till I heard it on the radio that my brain made the connection.
 

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Sept 19th 2008 at Jaransons, she was a great bird.

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Anyone seen this?

Anybody ever seen this one? I don't know why i get involved in these. Need to stick with what i know. This is on a 7ECA Citabria. Lots of logbook entries on lubing the old valve but nothing documenting this.



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Steve, researched this a bit, have a couple of friends each with a 7ECA plus I worked for a Bellanca dealer here in the early 80s so have twisted a wrench on a few and although memory fades…..I have to say that that’s a factory stock setup so there wouldn’t be any extra paperwork on it.
The “manifold block” on the left is the feed “IN” from the rear outlets from the wing tanks (single 1/2” OD line) and the feed “IN” from the front outlets of both wing tanks. The feed from the rear outlets are plumbed into a “Y” block located behind the aft cabin bulkhead (both 3/8” OD lines) that then transition to the 1/2” line at the “Y” that runs forward. Somewhere back there, as I remember it’s out of the bottom of the “Y”, is a low point drain. The small line in your picture is the supply feed to the primer pump. That gets all the wing fuel together in one place then they add in the shutoff. These airplanes have no factory installed fuel selector. It’s all or nothing, on or off.
Maybe this helps?

Mike “Oz”
 
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