I need a new project
- Thread starter cgoldy
- Start date
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Yes.
Yes.
http://montanafloat.com/
I have two friends who have or had these floats. One bought a factory built set for his Glastar and the other built a kit which we installed on his Super Cub. I have flown both planes and found that the floats perform very well on both types of planes. The water and flight characteristics are excellent, better than some production types (in my opinion). They compare favorably with the EDO 2000 floats. There were some initial nose wheel shimmy problems on both installations which were resolved with a redesign. The factory supplied the altered parts for no charge. Good folks to deal with.
The nose wheels are too small (in my opinion) for soft fields, beaches, taxing out of the water etc. Most all available amphibs have this same too small nose gear. Larger nose wheels have two drawbacks, more weight forward (where you don't want it) and more difficult to control shimmy.
If you plan on operating in salt water, building a kit will give you an opportunity to maximize corrosion protection. There is a lot of work involved as you will be building the equivalent of two fuselages.
Yes.
http://montanafloat.com/
I have two friends who have or had these floats. One bought a factory built set for his Glastar and the other built a kit which we installed on his Super Cub. I have flown both planes and found that the floats perform very well on both types of planes. The water and flight characteristics are excellent, better than some production types (in my opinion). They compare favorably with the EDO 2000 floats. There were some initial nose wheel shimmy problems on both installations which were resolved with a redesign. The factory supplied the altered parts for no charge. Good folks to deal with.
The nose wheels are too small (in my opinion) for soft fields, beaches, taxing out of the water etc. Most all available amphibs have this same too small nose gear. Larger nose wheels have two drawbacks, more weight forward (where you don't want it) and more difficult to control shimmy.
If you plan on operating in salt water, building a kit will give you an opportunity to maximize corrosion protection. There is a lot of work involved as you will be building the equivalent of two fuselages.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
They all have small nose wheels. Nose wheels need a good footprint since they need to support a lot of weight while taxing in soft ground with high engine power. On soft ground they tend to dig in. Some of the larger amphibs, such as my EDO 3500s, have large 5:00-5 nose wheels. None of the smaller floats have large tire floatation on the nose wheels. Small nose wheels on amphibs act like 6:00-6 main wheels on a Cub landing in the tundra or on soft beaches, very poorly.
http://www.clamarfloats.com/2200a.htm
http://www.wipaire.com/myaircraft/piper/PA18/2100_floats.php
http://www.zenairfloats.com/1700-1900-2200-2500.html
http://www.clamarfloats.com/2200a.htm
http://www.wipaire.com/myaircraft/piper/PA18/2100_floats.php
http://www.zenairfloats.com/1700-1900-2200-2500.html
cgoldy
Registered User
Moogerah Queensland Australia
Thanks Pete,
I can't see myself spending that much and not being able to taxi across the padock to the hangar. What was I thinking!
Phil,
Anna has just completed back to back marathons! I can't keep up with that so it looks as if I will just have to chase cows for now.
Colin
I can't see myself spending that much and not being able to taxi across the padock to the hangar. What was I thinking!
Phil,
Anna has just completed back to back marathons! I can't keep up with that so it looks as if I will just have to chase cows for now.
Colin
NimpoCub
Registered User
Nimpo Lake, BC . . . AKA "the Floatplane Capital o
Here's what a comrade over here did (aeronautical engineer) when building his amphibs from scratch. Says they don't flip when landing gear down! Maybe you can build the mains recess bigger? Some details of floats that don’t flip.
# 1 – Wheel extension – 5 1/2 inches
# 2 – Compound spray rails
# 3 – Fuel tanks out of the wings and into the floats, located forward of the step
# 4 – Flaps – large slotted flaps with a control lip or fowler-type flaps
# 5 – Float struts – only long enough to give 30 inches prop clearance to the water
# 6 – A lightweight three-blade variable pitch propeller with a minimum diameter of 80 inches
# 7 – A very gentle chine and keel line to give more floatation to the forebody
# 8 – CG (centre of gravity) located ten inches forward of the step. CL (centre of lift) – a line drawn 12 degrees forward of the step should cross the centre of lift located at 25% from the front of the wing cord. (Angle of incidence) – minus 2 degrees for the floats, plus 2 degrees for the wings, plus 3 degrees for the wings with poor or no flaps.
# 1 – Wheel extension – 5 1/2 inches
# 2 – Compound spray rails
# 3 – Fuel tanks out of the wings and into the floats, located forward of the step
# 4 – Flaps – large slotted flaps with a control lip or fowler-type flaps
# 5 – Float struts – only long enough to give 30 inches prop clearance to the water
# 6 – A lightweight three-blade variable pitch propeller with a minimum diameter of 80 inches
# 7 – A very gentle chine and keel line to give more floatation to the forebody
# 8 – CG (centre of gravity) located ten inches forward of the step. CL (centre of lift) – a line drawn 12 degrees forward of the step should cross the centre of lift located at 25% from the front of the wing cord. (Angle of incidence) – minus 2 degrees for the floats, plus 2 degrees for the wings, plus 3 degrees for the wings with poor or no flaps.
