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Throtlle goes back to flight idle on its own

I wouldn't think that thickness would be of any concern. The leather is pliable, does not tear and provides a durable friction generating surface. What ever thickness is available and fits the location should work.
 
I NEVER use the old leather type disc, or anything...

whats more important is how the cable end lines up with carb throttle arm, so it is "relaxed" and not in a bind trying to move the throttle arm.......
 
There are was. Taking off in a friends piper pacer and going to demonstrate a short takeoff. Let go the throttle to grab some flaps, throttle came back. Just embarrassing.
 
I know this is an old thread but what I have found to work very well is a split rubber grommet. I take a razor and slice a bulkhead grommetright down the middle creatring two halves , I choose the one that has the smaller holes same size as the throttle lever stud and , about 3/4 OD. Slice it down the middle and divide them on the front and rear. They seam to last a long time. Most recent build is 4 years, 700 hours.
 
Would a throttle creeping forward (as opposed to backwards) be caused by the same set of issues outlined in this thread?
 
Would a throttle creeping forward (as opposed to backwards) be caused by the same set of issues outlined in this thread?

Isn't it standard practice to have a spring on the carb throttle arm that pulls the throttle full open if the control cable breaks? If the throttle moves forward on its own then that spring is too strong or the system total friction is too low.
 
I bought the univair washers and they weren't any better than the worn out ones..., I went to a good tackle shop that rebuilds every kind of reel imaginable and matched up some real drag washers and haven't had any problems since!
 
I have had two throttle control failures, including one crossing the mountains late as it was getting dark. Those $.39 cotter pins are worth every penny.

Having the throttle go up in power is much nicer than going down when things come apart.
 
Isn't it standard practice to have a spring on the carb throttle arm that pulls the throttle full open if the control cable breaks? If the throttle moves forward on its own then that spring is too strong or the system total friction is too low.

is this the case?
 
Pretty sure my carb does not have a spring on the throttle. Depending on the prop it could go well past redline if it did.
DENNY
 
This extract should remove any possible doubt as to the purpose of the spring -
 

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So if my throttle is slowly pulling open this is spring is thr likely culrpit? Wonder how i could adjust tension.

I will start with friction washers.
 
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