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0375 cht

willirw

Registered User
Alaska
I am running a AeroSport Power 0375 on my EXP Cub and couldn't ask for anything better as far as power and smoothness. The only concerning thing to me is that my CHT's on cylinders 2,3,4 run over 400 degrees unless I keep my MP below 17.0 inches. My baffels were made by Airforms here in Alaska and I have headed every ones advise on sealing them up. I have kept pretty detailed records along he way and really have not noticed my temp change since day one. I just switched to Phillips multigrade oil and still no change. Just courious if others of you running the 0375 are experiencing similiar temps.
 
how many hrs on the engine? what is your oil temp?what type of probes and gauges?what is the outside air temp? can you post a pic of your cowl.
 
Could be the main jet in the carb. It may be to small at full rich, thus running a little lean. Try leaning until it almost quits and leave it there a few minutes to see if it stabilizes below 400 ( that was my problem with a new engine plus mods. )
 
I had the same problem with my o-375. (Great engine) Spent hours fixing all the things that were supposed to be the cause. Finally just disconnected the map tube that advances the e-mag and bingo. Temps dropped 30 deg with no noticeable power loss.

Hope it is that simple for you. Will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.
 
I had the same problem with my o-375. (Great engine) Spent hours fixing all the things that were supposed to be the cause. Finally just disconnected the map tube that advances the e-mag and bingo. Temps dropped 30 deg with no noticeable power loss.

Hope it is that simple for you. Will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.

Did you have the jumper on the E-Mag, so it only advances it to 34deg.
 
Yes I had the jumper in. But I have no idea about my fuel burn. Most of my flying is short blasts from Landing zone to Landing zone and I fill from a drum. I really have no idea of my fuel burn - Read "Bad Pilot"
 
i have a Dynon SkyView system to monitor my engine. The hotest oil temp I have seen has been 195 degrees. My cowling was made by SelKirk Aviation from Idaho. I even sent the bottom cowl back to them to add a little cowl flap to the bottom. I still never noticed any temp change. Yesterday cruising at 5500 feet. OAT 57 degrees 2300 rpm and 17.3 inches cylinders 2,3,4, 400 t0 405. That was full rich. If I barely pull the lean mixture the CHT instantly climb. Those are cruise temps. If I climb hard I can reach about 2500 ft and 2,3,4, will be around 430 CHT and climbing. I always chicken out ad pull the power back to let them cool down before trying to climb again. I have 80 hrs on the engine now.
 
Your prop also plays a large part in cooling. Some of the early wood / composite props were too flat / fat at the hub end and acted like a big air plug in front of your pressure cowl.

Might try a different prop and see if your temps go down.

Take care,

Crash
 
Willirw,

You didn't say if you were running electronic ignition or straight mags. I am keen to know.

cgoldy
 
Willirw,

So you have sealed everything up nicely forcing all the cooling air through the proper places, are you letting all of the hot air out? What is the gap between your side cowls and the side of the firewall? A lot of hot air needs to escape out the sides. The exhaust exit scoop on the bottom cowl will not be enough. If hot can not escape, then cold can not get in thus causing high CHTs. My IO-360 never gets above 380 on a hot day. It is usually a lot less with a ECI UBG-16.
 
I had the same problem with my o-375. (Great engine) Spent hours fixing all the things that were supposed to be the cause. Finally just disconnected the map tube that advances the e-mag and bingo. Temps dropped 30 deg with no noticeable power loss.

Hope it is that simple for you. Will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.

Colin,
Is there any possibility that your timing on the P-mag was in error? It should be done at TDC. It is possible that you set it at the advanced mark on the fly wheel, which is for the magnetos.
 
Pretty sure I did it to that mark. If I picked the wrong mark it would be timed to advance to 50 deg wouldn't it. Not sure it would run. But that's not to say that the jumper worked. I can't see how you could check that unless you get the software.

i have two pmags in the RV6. I have had a few people who should know, comment on how smooth the motor runs. And really easy to time. Just set to top dead centre and blow down the tube. Not sure why it does not suit the cub installation.
 
i have a p mag on my 0360 and was told by emagair to set the timing when the piston was just starting to go down and it will keep the cht"s down. also what are your egt's full rich?
 
i have a p mag on my 0360 and was told by emagair to set the timing when the piston was just starting to go down and it will keep the cht"s down. also what are your egt's full rich?

The EGTs will vary from plane to plane depending on the type of probe and installation location which has a lot of variables. My numbers will not necessarily relate to yours. EGTs are used to help determine mixture ratios.
 
Yep, i understand i was just curious to see the whole pic, egt's and oil temp. with todays engine monitors it's nice. Brad at emag suggested i retard the timing a little to drop my cht's. he is worth the call a very nice fellow!
 
It sure sounds to me that your engine is running to lean even at full rich. The only cure is a bigger main jet

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
You can use your EGT to check the mixture. You should be able to lean about 125* from full rich while in normal cruise. I've been told 100* is the bare minimum. Less than that requires a carb adjustment.

The single most effective thing I did on my old (Scooter's new) -12 to improve CHT was to switch to a Hot Rod muffler. The muffler it replaced was a very nearly new (not sick) Atlee Dodge standard muffler. Your engine has more cubes and pumps more air than most Cub engines. I'd make sure the exhaust system is up to the task.
 
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SB - These current hot (for Alaska) temps of in the low 80's I am getting 190F on oil temp, and 360F on CHT. I lean max EGT under 65% power which is where I run it as it is best economy and not much reduction in cruise that 75%. For any climb it is full rich and monitor CHT with airspeed, and/or stair step climbs. I get proactive of doing something better for cooling once CHTs go much past 410. 65% power on a O-320-B2B is 2350 rpm with fixed pitch. At 75% which is 2450 I lean 75* rich of peak EGT, all of what Lycoming calls for in the operator manuals. Have done this for years (like 40) and haven't had any cylinder or other engine problems. 53M is setup right for cooling.
 
Willirw,

I have an O-375, as well. I run it on my SQ2 and experienced high CHT temps, upwards 430 on cool days. I consulted with Charlie Center and he recommended replacing the baffling with a Scout type baffling where there is more room behind the rear cylinders. I also removed any top baffling and installed rubber strips from the rear engine that extended up to the top cowling. Noticeable drop in all CHT's. #4 hovers around the 385-405 degrees. All others well below 390 at 2300-2400 RPM.

Northern Flyer
 
All thank you for the replies and suggestions. Many I have already tried. I am running with Bendix mags. Lots of space between the rear of the side cowl and boot cowl, four inches. I am running a WhirlWind 200-G ground adjust prop. It is pretty fat at the hub and I can see how it coud block some airflow. I spoke with AeroSport Power and they were very nice and helpful. Suggested and sent info on how do do a diffrential pressure check. I will complete this when I return from work. They also admitted that the 0375 runs hot and on the ones they manufacture now they install nozzles that spary oil on the back of the pistons. My engine was manufactured in 4/11 and does not have the ability without lots of work. I will let everone know how I am progressing. Randy
 
All thank you for the replies and suggestions. Many I have already tried. I am running with Bendix mags. Lots of space between the rear of the side cowl and boot cowl, four inches. I am running a WhirlWind 200-G ground adjust prop. It is pretty fat at the hub and I can see how it coud block some airflow. I spoke with AeroSport Power and they were very nice and helpful. Suggested and sent info on how do do a diffrential pressure check. I will complete this when I return from work. They also admitted that the 0375 runs hot and on the ones they manufacture now they install nozzles that spary oil on the back of the pistons. My engine was manufactured in 4/11 and does not have the ability without lots of work. I will let everone know how I am progressing. Randy

Willirw,

I had the Whirlwind 200 prop, as well. I changed it to the RV-10 Whirlwind prop, which helped considerably.
 
Yep, i understand i was just curious to see the whole pic, egt's and oil temp. with todays engine monitors it's nice. Brad at emag suggested i retard the timing a little to drop my cht's. he is worth the call a very nice fellow!
Ok cub12, here are some numbers for you to study. temperature at start OAT 75F,
Full throttle-27.5"map, 2430rpm, 70mph, fuel flow 16.1gph, oil temp 124F #1- egt 1164 cht 301, #2- egt 1220 cht 345, #3- egt 1171 cht 347, #4- egt 1206 cht 352.

Cruise leaned to 50* rich, #1- egt 1374 cht 319, #2- egt 1450 cht 350, #3- egt 1404 cht 369, #4- egt 1458 cht 345.
power 21.5" map @ 2510 rpm, oil 175 F, fuel flow 8.3 gph

The engine is a IO-360-B1D (180 hp) with balanced injectors, dual P-mags, Whirlwind 200G prop set at 15 degrees. on EDO 2000 floats.
burning 100LL and AeroShell 100W oil.
 
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...I am running a WhirlWind 200-G ground adjust prop. It is pretty fat at the hub and I can see how it could block some airflow....

I look at this the other way around. I figure that the wide chord blades push more air through the engine thereby giving more cooling. The bigger paddle has more pushing power than a thin one.
 
I have heard the gasket type CHT probes read 25-50 deg hotter than the bayonet type probes. Are there any other signs of high CHT other than what your gauge is telling you? Is the paint baking off the heads? Is the oil cokeing up inside the valve cover area? What do the spark plugs look like?


Jason
 
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