One motor driving both sides. Two will be greater possibility for trouble. You don't want just one drooping. Mine has a 172 flap drive motor mounted in the left wing connected by cables to the right wing.Sounds to me like you could teach ground school!!
How's the motor idea sound?
Is the upper left edge bent as well? Cut a big lightning hole in the middle. Either triangular with big radius corners or a big circle. All of the strength is around the outer edges. The middle of the plate is just dead weight.
Sky,
Bent and welded all the way around. A lightening hole is needed...WILCO.
I was thinking 2, one to drive each side. You're right about 2X the chance of failure but running wire is a lot easier and better I think than cable. How does your cable drive the other side...by wheel, chain and sprocket or what?
Glenn,
That really nice work. Is that yours? Is it a Pietenpol?
Lowrider,
I'm mimicking the original Piper flap bell crank with .100 4130. It will have a flange welded around the perimeter, and a stiffener running from the pivot to the inside of the dog leg. I plan to drill some holes similar to the aileron horn to waste some time lightening it. It should be comparable in weight to the original. If I get it hacked together this week, I'll put it up. Seems like Javron makes a pretty simple one out of steel, maybe Bill Rusk has a picture of his.
Thanks,
Jim
.. How does your cable drive the other side...by wheel, chain and sprocket or what?
Sky, et al,
Forgot to mention this but the Riblett wing calls for a stall fence at the juncture of the flaps and aileron. Also, what I've read seems to agree that VG's are an important part of the droopers. Any issue with either of these?
So, you're talking about a "second" bell crank in each wing to mount the aileron bell crank on and connect together via a push/pull rod, then have another running to the cabin where it would provide droop to both ailerons at the same time...right?
Low, this does not sound good. I've been concerned about flutter with the many points of movement/flex in your aileron control design. Now with this description, I'm getting more worried.I'm setting up my trailing edges on the aileron and flap and both are perfectly straight length wise which is pretty easy to set up with an 8' straight edge. The aileron is straight to +/-1/4" in 8' or so vertically and I think that will be taken care of when the fabric goes on if I use the straight edge to keep it as straight as possible during shrinking of the fabric.
The flap on the other hand has about a 3/4" droop on the ends when the center where the control rod activates the flap is held in line with the aileron. I'm thinking that the fabric will also straighten the flap during shrinking as long as I use the straight edge to keep it in the proper alignment.
Is this problem common and will the fabric do the trick to hold the alum frame in line??