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Lowrider LSA

If you do as you suggest, make sure that the glue will hold against the pressure from the shrinking fabric. Also make sure that the rear 1/4' tube is supported. Remember the scalloped trailing edges on a Spad (WW1) wing? That was caused by shrinking fabric. You could rivet a curved "spar" to that leading "D" shape which will press against the front of the gear leg. This will help maintain the shape. The trailing edge could be done in the same manner.
 
After I sent the last idea, I realized that the foam I was thinking of using really wasn't a good solution since it would be prone to hold moisture against the gear leg. The aluminum idea is better since I could put drains on the bottom.

I could weld some tabs on the front and rear to support the aluminum shapes and make the "spars" out of 0.032 2024 so they would be stout enough to stand up to fabric shrinking or just put short supports on the rear from the leg to the 1/4" tube to give it some rigidity. I really don't want to rivet into the gear legs.
 
I didn't mean to suggest that you rivet to the gear leg. Just make up the "D" section and place it against the tubing, with perhaps a drop of glue to hold it in place until the fabric is taught. Leave the entire bottom open so that nothing will collect inside. Bend the sharp edge of the aluminum inward so that the fabric doesn't chafe. 2024 .020 would be plenty. It's only a light fairing. Be sure to protect the gear leg with something moisture proof before covering.
 
I'm with you now. I tried to bend 0.032 2024 to a "D" shape and it's abitch to bend that tight without kinking so you're right, 0.020 is probably the right answer. The legs are primed and painted so the glue is better than welded tabs.

The rear part using a 4" width is toooo much...maybe 1.5" or so is better. 4" puts it back where your feet must be to get into and out of the plane so I believe you would be constantly stepping on the back edge of the rear gear leg. I had a senior moment on the gear leg diameter, it's only 1 3/8" so if I go back 1.5" to 1/4" or 3/8" R bent alum piece it should still be OK allowing the air to come back together smoothly.

I'll play some more with shapes using 0.020 and see how that comes out.
 
?? If you're going to cover the gear legs, do you even need to worry about a tapered trailing edge?
 
55,

Yes, I think so. The major drag comes from the rear of the gear tubes and putting a taper on the back of the leg allows the air to come back together there without causing, for lack of a better term, burbles which creates drag. I think the best way is to create an airfoil shape around the gear legs but that requires some type of ribs to do it and I'm not sure there is enough benefit to that design to make it worthwhile...but then I'm only repeating what I've read.

Wrong,

I didn't forget about you but I've been working on the rudder and things have been back and forth. Thanks for the comment!
 
The most drag free TE is impractical to fabricate out of aluminium, it is so elongated.....the next best thing is a BLUNT TE, nearly as efficient and practical to fabricate, and not so fragile as the theroritical ideal. So says Barnaby Wainfain, a real live aero dy. guy with lots of letters after his name. About 1/4 to 3/8 on that TE will be good enough, and much better then leaving unfaired.I've used 2 1/4" door jam trim, 2 PCs. glued together and veed out so they cup the 4130, JBweld secures it. Been doing that way over 20 years. I rip my belly and hor stab/elevator fabric plus rock holes regularly but zero damage to my fabric covered gear legs, not a concern just be careful getting in. Major drag reduction and well worth any repairs if any.
 
OK... good idea on the TE size. Can't I just use the 3/8" CM tube welded to the rear leg say maybe 2" back with some supports welded in to provide a good solid TE to wrap with fabric? I would need to do some paint touch-up but it would be worth it not to have wood against my gear leg...wood means wet and that's not good.

What about the leading edge contour??
 
..What about the leading edge contour??
This is not a difficult bend. Using .020", bend like my picture with the LE extending aft of the front tube by about an inch. Then a "C" shape the same radius as the landing gear tube extending back the same amount The "C" can have big holes in it. Rivet the two together at the aft edge making a curved "D". Bend the aft edge inboard enough so that the fabric will not touch the edge. A couple of dabs of contact cement to hold it to the gear leg and you are done. The pull of the fabric should pull the aft edges further inboard (good).

Bend the small LE radius. The larger side radius will be formed when you rivet it to the "C" and tighten the fabric. This is similar to a wing leading edge.

I'm unable to make a drawing and post. Hope this makes a good enough picture for you.
 
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I'm in the mountains near the high desert, don't float fly, and my plane is hangared, so the wood up against the gear leg concern is no big deal.

The thing I remember about the Wainfan treatise on TE drag reduction, was that unless you go all out and actually achieve the lowest drag fairing,(the one that is most often simply too impractical to fab and put into use, and too fragile, but damn it has the least drag) you are better off going with that blunt shape then a more common sharp brake formed TE. Counter intuitive, but then I thought about the 3/8" round tube that makes up my (RANS S_7) TE on the flaps and ailerons, NOT sharp brake formed, and how I easily dead stick ridge soar even with 29" Airstreaks (there, I got to work that in again....) I got to mention this subject to Randy Schlitter, the RANS designer. I asked him if the blunt TE was just a form follows function thing or if he was aware of the benefits, he was all over it, knew about I mean, not accidental in other words, it just turned out to also be the easiest way to make that TE. Less work and less parts count AND least drag.

The other thing Wanfain says was the lesser need to address the LE with a streamlined shape, at least at Cub speeds, as compared to the TE, the TE being the one that pays off more. Sure can't hurt to do the LE though, looks good too.
 
Yes Sir...got the picture!!

I made a hard foam mandrel last night for the front contour but it wasn't strong enough to bend the 2024. It's easy to make with a wood rasp and it made me think fiberglass might be the answer for the front. Your way with the alum will be easier than the way I tried to make it...don't stop with the good ideas. Maybe you need to write a book with lots of pictures!!
 
Courier,

I'm going to try making something like Sky suggested for the LE and see how it turns out. Sure is a lot of spring in 2024!! I need to order some 3/8" tube so it will be awhile before I get to that fab.

Tail feathers are well on the way and will be ready for filler soon but will still need to build my spray booth before I can get them ready for paint. I have a trailer conversion project in the shop that I need to finish before I have room for the paint booth because of window exhaust location...one snow go broke over the weekend so it needs work as well. Never a shortage of things to do in retirement!!
 
Check out how Luscombe did it.
they used .024 (I think) two bolts in front strut and then the TE is screwed together. Very handy to remove for gear instpection or repairIM001523.JPG3468.JPG
 

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Good idea Monte. Do you have any idea of what those two screws go into which seem to be lined up with the main steel tube? They are not shown in the uncovered picture. The last Champions, before they went to leaf spring gear, had a similar setup for a gear fairing.
 
I'll roger that....great idea Monte. I'm thinking there must be some support structure however light inside to attach to the gear. That paint job give you at least 5 knots!

Thanks Monte!
 
For you fabric folks...after you do the 250*, 300* and 350* shrinks is there a way to make sure the fabric is properly shrunk? I have been doing the 350* until all the bays sound the same or close to it when they are flicked with a finger. I know that's not very scientific but that's how #3 son tunes his drums. I like fabric fine but alum doesn't need to be shrunk.

So far my wife and I are big fans of the Stewart's System but she did say she missed getting high from the fumes...don't ask.
 
those two screws go into which seem to be lined up with the main steel tube? They are not shown in the uncovered picture.

Those are long -3 bolts that go clear through the gear leg and they are what hold the fairing on the gear.
 
I'll roger that....great idea Monte. I'm thinking there must be some support structure however light inside to attach to the gear. That paint job give you at least 5 knots!

NO support structure inside. Think LIGHT weight. The paint job is on Bill Bradford's clipped wing Luscombe.
 
Monte,

Thanks for the comments. I'm thinking if I try to do that style of fairing it will require 2 or probably 3 tabs welded on the inside of the front leg for the bolts to run thru and something inside to keep the fairing from getting squeezed together when the bolts are tightened. I like the way it looks and is simple if I can get the alum bent properly in the front...the rear part looks like it will take care of itself with the screws.

I ordered the 1/4" tube before I saw this style fairing and the fabric will be easier but the alum really looks nice and that type will also work on the my die springs...thinking and playing with options.
 
Check out how Luscombe did it.
they used .024 (I think) two bolts in front strut and then the TE is screwed together. Very handy to remove for gear instpection or repairView attachment 18721View attachment 18722

I dug one out of the hangar; The one I found was .032 and weighs 2.25 lbs. Also looked at a friends and his is held on by 4 screws instead of the an-3 bolts all the way through. The pics are of the skirt, hopefully the cub wheel will help with orientation.
The nose is a one inch diameter
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Biult landing gear fairings from 2024 .016 aluminum. I just secured them at the top wrapped them and screwed together at the rear. Of course you need to make the front bend with a slot bender or whatever. These were just fine form for about 500 hours.
 
Bearhawk_LSA_Oratex02.jpgBearhawk_LSA_Oratex08.jpg
Are any flying yet ?
There are at least two that are flying; one is the one of Mark Goldberg covered in Oratex; it was in Oshkosh 2014 and also in Florida this January at Sebring...See here... I also have a video of it on my UTube channel and more photos of it on our BAF-website...
 

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Thanks Monte!

0.032 might be a tad thicker than even I might use but the idea is sound. I played with some 0.016 today and I accidentally dropped my seamers on the side of the fairing laying on the table and it dented big time. I was thinking 0.020 would work better. The 1" nose diameter bend is good info and should make it easier than trying to make an airfoil shape.

#2 son is making a sheet of carbon fiber to see if it will shape properly and bend as needed...we'll see if that works...confidence level is low.

I'm still waiting for my CM rod and I think the fabric fairing might be more likely to bounce back from a rock or stick or whatever might get flung at the fairing.

Thanks Don, 350* it is
 
Quick shot of floor rough-in. Areas in the back with rear seat removed is 6' +/- so us shorter guys can sleep in there if you choose. Hooks on the sides are fishing pole holders and they extend back into the tail so a 10' fly rod will fit if needed.

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That's 5mm luan and once fitted completely it will get a layer of fiberglass and resin making it pretty damn strong, quiet and not too heavy. The texture of the fiberglass cloth also puts a "anti-skid/slip" layer so it will be a lot safer to move inside the plane. The areas under pedals will get a piece of 0.025 alum with countersunk screws to make it easier to slide your feet on the brakes and rudder pedals.

I was going to use 1/4" thick T&G cedar but it turned out to be a real pain in the butt to get 1" wide pieces straight and properly aligned so I went to a much easier medium. They are left over from a cedar kayak project...sure looks pretty with fiberglass and resin over top of it!!
 

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I'm not an expert but I believe Eddie is correct. I took a 2' square piece of the wood, put glass on the top and soaked the wood with epoxy resin and when it cured, I can bounce on it when suspended on the edges. I'm down to 180 or so but I did bend it pretty good and it didn't break...good enough for me.
 
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