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Lowrider LSA

When a drooping system is installed there is less up aileron available. Up aileron has more effect on roll control than down aileron particularly at the "new" lower flying speed. Drooping ailerons are good at the expense of reduced crosswind control capabilities.

Most any shaped tip other than a flat plate would have lower drag and improved aileron control at minimum speeds.
 
What would be wrong with using the commercially available wing tips that are designed for those wing ribs?
 
Nothing wrong, but I'd need to extend them to match the cord of the aileron which wouldn't be that big of a deal...little fiberglass and some resin I suppose.
 
That's a good idea since it sounds as though the ailerons go to the tip rib. By placing a short piece of tip outboard of the aileron you will get a more effective aileron by pushing the tip vortex away from the aileron. Without the tip the vortex will disturb the flow at the outboard section of the aileron.
 
Hmmm I thought Avipro made them but they are not on their site....might need to build them or something. Any other ideas?
 
How about a 180/182 tip...might be close in size. Next size up I thing would be 185/206/207. Any good place to get sizes?
 
They're on Bob Barrows site. He has his own site. Avipro no longer exists. Its now called Bearhawk Aircraft.
 
Hmmm must be a link to the same site...no wing tips on either Patrol or LSA parts pages. I'll call.
 
Didn't know that Dave! I thought the 175 and down were one family and 180 and up were another.

Mark,

I called Bob and he has a set just down the road from me that he'll sell at a discount since he shipped the wrong ones to a Patrol builder. The guys are in my EAA Chapter so I can get them next week at the meeting...Great deal...thanks for the info!!!
 
I can measure tomorrow but I have a set of LSA tips coming form Bob so they should fit just pretty well. When I said I lengthened the chord I meant the length to 8' but the chord is a little longer than normally would be according to the plans since I made them the same as the flaps which aren't on the LSA so I think I'll need to add a bit to the tips chord wise but I won't know how much until I get them all together on the wing.

Hope that makes sense.
 
I think I'll call Bob Barrows. I bet he can give me the scoop. My airfoil is 4412 which I believe to be similar to the Ribblet.
 
After sitting for 18 months I got all my engine parts back on Friday from the "engine guy" that was going to rebuild it for me...he's too busy. I have 2 others on the line to take over. I think I'll get in touch with Lycon and see what they can do for the jugs and pistons. Crank is yellow tagged along with rods and misc parts except for the cam which came back red tagged. One lobe is somewhat rounded and the rest can probably be reground to spec. If it were a car cam it would be easy to find someone to weld and regrind the cam...but...as soon as I mention airplane, they're not interested. But then, if it were a car cam I could order one up from Jegs or someone for a reasonable price. It's not like I have a complete plane waiting for an engine but at some point it needs to be hung on the front and all the misc stuff needs to be done forward of the firewall.

Spent yesterday doing access panels...forgot how much I love nut plates!
 
Does anyone know if there are rubber "boots" to seal off the hole in the wing where flap and aileron actuation rods move? I'm trying to keep bugs and critters out of the wing and am thinking maybe some inner tube rubber with a hole for the rod would help. We have a huge crop of yellow jackets here every summer. I'm hoping the hard/cold winter will help but probably not. Ideas?
 
Anything that is flexible and durable to constant flexing. Fasten the base to the edges of the hole and tape or tie-rap the top to the push rod in a location which will preclude stretching at full extension.
 
OK...I'm using the screen on the inside of the lightening holes to keep the little fellows out so that could work there too if it will withstand the flexing. I thought maybe rubber would be better where the rods move but I'll give it a try.
 
Great idea Sky!

I have some Cordura fabric but it's pink (don't ask) so I need to get a yard of white and play with that. I can make some alum rings out of 0.025 to hold the cone against the rear spar and 505 cord or wire tie to hold it on the rod.

Your Goggle foo is much more powerful than mine or I don't ask the right question!!
 
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