Oppps....I primed and painted the main spar on my right wing and not on the left one. At some point I decided not to paint interior of wings and forgot that I've already done the right main spar.There will be a weight difference due to the paint. I know both wings should weight exactly the same but that ain't gunna happen. Is there a percentage of difference in wing weight that's acceptable??
Lowrider LSA
- Thread starter Lowrider
- Start date
Thanks Denny!
Guess I should have worded the question differently...wasn't concerned that I could only make right turns. I was trying to see if there is a standard for weight variance...one side compared to the other. I guess drag differences would have as much or more effect on the how the plane trims out as weight.
On little planes with only 2 tanks I always use "both" to try to burn evenly but it never completely works out that way anyway. My 170 has different capacities on each wing and sometimes they burn at the same rate but usually not and I get a heavy wing at some point but I have rule on how far down I burn fuel...usually driven by my bladder.
Guess I should have worded the question differently...wasn't concerned that I could only make right turns. I was trying to see if there is a standard for weight variance...one side compared to the other. I guess drag differences would have as much or more effect on the how the plane trims out as weight.
On little planes with only 2 tanks I always use "both" to try to burn evenly but it never completely works out that way anyway. My 170 has different capacities on each wing and sometimes they burn at the same rate but usually not and I get a heavy wing at some point but I have rule on how far down I burn fuel...usually driven by my bladder.
Good point! The weights are never the same...even if you wanted them to be the same. Thanks for the thoughts.
Just went over to the shop to check the heat and the snow is over my 10" boots and still falling. It looks like some of the drifting may account for that but I sure wish the 6' snow blower I'm building was completed...much better than the 27" walk behind...tractor bucket and box will deal with it once it stops falling. My wife is always excited by the first snow fall but that doesn't last long. I'm excited that my new tractor has a heated (air conditioned) cab...tractor bliss!!!
Just went over to the shop to check the heat and the snow is over my 10" boots and still falling. It looks like some of the drifting may account for that but I sure wish the 6' snow blower I'm building was completed...much better than the 27" walk behind...tractor bucket and box will deal with it once it stops falling. My wife is always excited by the first snow fall but that doesn't last long. I'm excited that my new tractor has a heated (air conditioned) cab...tractor bliss!!!
Lowrider; I'm busy now with helping build matching father and son AR-15 pistols with a 10.5" barrel in .277 Wolverine...not for me or one of my offspring...helping a friend.[/QUOTE said:They turned out so nice I made one for myself...it's in .277 Wolverine too and is shooting 1.25" groups at 100yds.
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I have all the ribs (main and nose) ready to attach to the spars. It seems the right wing is proceeding faster than the other wing, probably because I have done this before but I'm still spending a reasonable amount of time referring to the drawings to make sure I'm still doing things correctly. Only problem so far is that my left hand (the one I smashed with the 3 pt hitch on my little tractor almost a year ago) is not picking up rivets the way it should and as a result sometimes I need to put the rivet gun down so I can use my right hand on placing rivets in the holes. Left does fine holding the bucking bar or other chores requiring less dexterity.
I'm still looking forward to #2 son getting my trim servos working properly and installed in the left aileron and the elevator control rod.
I moved the left wing and fuselage down to my Southern shop at Hackney Air Park (ID 5) to make room here for other projects. One project will be a trailer to pull behind my old Goldwing and the Harley Lowrider. Yeah...Lowrider came from the Harley and not a slammed car or truck. All my vehicles strive for ground clearance.
It has been pretty warm in the ID panhandle so far but that's about to change tomorrow. Deer season is over and the snow is getting too deep in the mountains to do much travel up there except by snow machine...took them to the Southern shop too. Looks like I will be working steadily on the right wing unless we sell the house here and get thrown out of this place...we'll see.
I'm still looking forward to #2 son getting my trim servos working properly and installed in the left aileron and the elevator control rod.
I moved the left wing and fuselage down to my Southern shop at Hackney Air Park (ID 5) to make room here for other projects. One project will be a trailer to pull behind my old Goldwing and the Harley Lowrider. Yeah...Lowrider came from the Harley and not a slammed car or truck. All my vehicles strive for ground clearance.
It has been pretty warm in the ID panhandle so far but that's about to change tomorrow. Deer season is over and the snow is getting too deep in the mountains to do much travel up there except by snow machine...took them to the Southern shop too. Looks like I will be working steadily on the right wing unless we sell the house here and get thrown out of this place...we'll see.
I like the Fit engine, also used in Honda outboards, a continuous rated power application. But Jan's history of letting customers pay for the ongoing development is something you should look into. His stance, years ago, when he was doing Subaru, was: I won't fix your G2 gearbox, here, buy my new G3,because, you know, it's all experimental. I'm sure he gets heckled at symposiums like Jim Bede did.
Eddie Foy
MEMBER
South Florida
Run, do not walk, to the nearest exit. Eggenfellner is bad news!
Skywalker,
Not sure if that is a positive or negative comment...I gotta say I've only had one Lycoming come apart in flight (IFR in the soup at 6K over Soldatna and thanks to ANC departure ended with me smiling) but I've never had a Honda do that in a car or any other engine of which I have many. I'm pretty confident in Honda engineering and production, maybe less so with aftermarket drive units although they are simple and it should be easy enough to build one that is as reliable as the Honda engine that drives it...yes?
Eddie,
Not difficult to determine which way your comment leans!!! Can you enlighten us on what led you to this conclusion please.
Not sure if that is a positive or negative comment...I gotta say I've only had one Lycoming come apart in flight (IFR in the soup at 6K over Soldatna and thanks to ANC departure ended with me smiling) but I've never had a Honda do that in a car or any other engine of which I have many. I'm pretty confident in Honda engineering and production, maybe less so with aftermarket drive units although they are simple and it should be easy enough to build one that is as reliable as the Honda engine that drives it...yes?
Eddie,
Not difficult to determine which way your comment leans!!! Can you enlighten us on what led you to this conclusion please.
He started off with converted Fit motors, no turbo, 110hp. With his experience in gearboxes to this point, maybe his first pass at normally aspirated Hondas is sound. Some Searey owners seem happy with theirs. But now he's off again with turbo pressure. I wouldn't follow, maybe in 5 years.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
He gave Subaru auto conversions a bad name. I ALMOST bought into his slick presentation when I ran across his display at Arlington fly-in, while I was looking for a powerplant for my first RANS S-7 in '97. I ended up going with a different Soob converter, one who had no fancy brochures but flew it in (with over 1000 hours TT) along with another actual flying example. I put 1300 totally trouble free hours on it before I moved on to my second S-7, belt drive BTW. That converter (Stratus) is now gone, the original guy sold out, and the second owner seems to have lost interest.
Meanwhile, the Rotax 912S I used for my second S-7, saved me 30 or 40 lbs., even better fuel economy, and a cleaner cowl/less drag as it all fits inside. This summer I reached the 2000 hour TBO on it, totally trouble and event free, and at 2200 hours I went ahead and more or less put a new short block in it, selling the old components to offset the 10K cost somewhat. The main thing about all the auto conversions, regardless of the redrives or the vendors, is the weight of them. Even ones that work fine and are inexpensive (mine was about 6K!) are heavier, plus they need a bit more room, tough for a tandem design most times.
Meanwhile, the Rotax 912S I used for my second S-7, saved me 30 or 40 lbs., even better fuel economy, and a cleaner cowl/less drag as it all fits inside. This summer I reached the 2000 hour TBO on it, totally trouble and event free, and at 2200 hours I went ahead and more or less put a new short block in it, selling the old components to offset the 10K cost somewhat. The main thing about all the auto conversions, regardless of the redrives or the vendors, is the weight of them. Even ones that work fine and are inexpensive (mine was about 6K!) are heavier, plus they need a bit more room, tough for a tandem design most times.
Well, I still like the idea of a Honda engine, just not from that fellow. I have a first run 0-320 with the crank, rods and other stuff yellow tagged so I suppose I'll continue along that route...throttle body, electronic ignition and maybe Lycon jugs. I'm hearing Lycon is really backed up on their work so I might search out another reputable shop...any ideas?
That Honda Fit engine sure is tempting!!
That Honda Fit engine sure is tempting!!
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
You seem to be mechanically inclined, why don't you get the Lycoming overhaul manual and do it yourself? These are basic engines they don't require a rocket scientist to put them together.
Hey Sky!
Good to hear from you!
I've done enough small block Chevy's to probably fall back on. Did a 360 AMC for my old 49 CJ-2A about 10 years ago...it ran just fine after I figured out I was
180* out on the timing.
I have the Lycoming manual and parts manual and I have most of the tools necessary to assemble the engine. I wanted to get the jugs cleaned up and ported to get a little extra HP thru efficiency rather than increase in compression. They look good but I haven't miced them to see if they need some honing or whatever and need to find my inside micrometers. There are plenty of IA's around to lean on for help. I can't find a cam yet but they must be around. The old cam is red tagged and has two really bad lobes. I guess it could be welded up and re-ground. If I can find the cam specs I can have one ground from a blank. The rest is just following directions.
Good to hear from you!
I've done enough small block Chevy's to probably fall back on. Did a 360 AMC for my old 49 CJ-2A about 10 years ago...it ran just fine after I figured out I was
180* out on the timing.
I have the Lycoming manual and parts manual and I have most of the tools necessary to assemble the engine. I wanted to get the jugs cleaned up and ported to get a little extra HP thru efficiency rather than increase in compression. They look good but I haven't miced them to see if they need some honing or whatever and need to find my inside micrometers. There are plenty of IA's around to lean on for help. I can't find a cam yet but they must be around. The old cam is red tagged and has two really bad lobes. I guess it could be welded up and re-ground. If I can find the cam specs I can have one ground from a blank. The rest is just following directions.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
I know it's done with reground cams. If it were mine I would install a new cam and lifters. Remember you have to split the case to repair them. Cylinders you can pull.
The engine is all torn down now. I also need to get someone to check the case for me. I'm guessing the case is OK since the crank was good and no sign of irregular wear. Certainly new valves and lifters. The wear on the two cam lobes was the only thing wrong with the cam so I think since the cam bearings being OK the case should be fine there too.
What electronic ignition are you using in your cub?
What electronic ignition are you using in your cub?
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
I'm using Pmags with automotive spark plugs. http://www.emagair.com/
Farmboy
MEMBER
Middlebury, VT
Those few Searey owners that have them all seem to have been price driven to purchase it. The ones that use a Rotax wouldn't buy a Viking for any amount of money. I'm sure the truth lies in the middle, but historically that guy doesn't have a good track record.
Farmboy,
Yes Sir...seems to be a pattern developing here...price is certainly draw for the Viking. I am drawn to the Honda engine for their reliability. We have a 2010 CRV that I run the pants off every chance I get and it's getting close to 200K and the only thing that has been replaced was the clutch on the air conditioner. The R engine is a jewel as best I can tell...it's the gear drive I have questions about. Maybe a belt drive but that's not the logical answer for speed reduction at the near 200 hp range...at least in my little brain.
Sky,
There are a lot of the Pmags in my aviation neighborhood and all speak well of it. I just looked at their site and it appears they have the "P200" on the market which is their experimental mag. It's not clear to me whether it replaces 2 mags or maybe I need to read it again. I'm certainly in favor of auto plugs. There are dozens of very modern electronic ignition systems on the auto market that are programmable and "cockpit" adjustable which makes them attractive. Price is also attractive. I have a single drive dual mag system that I could use a Pmag in the hole but still need an additional external ignition. It seems simpler and cheaper to have a pair of electronic ignitions with a traditional left/right both switch with a common mag pickup on the starter ring. IF...IF you can believe their advertising they put out consistent high voltage and with programmable timing they produce more efficient fuel burn, more HP and less fuel burn.
Yes Sir...seems to be a pattern developing here...price is certainly draw for the Viking. I am drawn to the Honda engine for their reliability. We have a 2010 CRV that I run the pants off every chance I get and it's getting close to 200K and the only thing that has been replaced was the clutch on the air conditioner. The R engine is a jewel as best I can tell...it's the gear drive I have questions about. Maybe a belt drive but that's not the logical answer for speed reduction at the near 200 hp range...at least in my little brain.
Sky,
There are a lot of the Pmags in my aviation neighborhood and all speak well of it. I just looked at their site and it appears they have the "P200" on the market which is their experimental mag. It's not clear to me whether it replaces 2 mags or maybe I need to read it again. I'm certainly in favor of auto plugs. There are dozens of very modern electronic ignition systems on the auto market that are programmable and "cockpit" adjustable which makes them attractive. Price is also attractive. I have a single drive dual mag system that I could use a Pmag in the hole but still need an additional external ignition. It seems simpler and cheaper to have a pair of electronic ignitions with a traditional left/right both switch with a common mag pickup on the starter ring. IF...IF you can believe their advertising they put out consistent high voltage and with programmable timing they produce more efficient fuel burn, more HP and less fuel burn.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Low,
I looked, it appears that the P200 is for 6 cylinder engines. Is your engine an 0-320-H which uses a single dual mag? If so the Pmag would not be a choice. The dual mags are not as numerous as single mags so it is unlikely that a Pmag will be made for your engine. Perhaps one of the other electronic ignition companies would be a better fit for your engine. One thing to keep in mind is that (I think) the Pmag is the only one out there which generates it's own electricity. I have found that this is a big safety factor.
I looked, it appears that the P200 is for 6 cylinder engines. Is your engine an 0-320-H which uses a single dual mag? If so the Pmag would not be a choice. The dual mags are not as numerous as single mags so it is unlikely that a Pmag will be made for your engine. Perhaps one of the other electronic ignition companies would be a better fit for your engine. One thing to keep in mind is that (I think) the Pmag is the only one out there which generates it's own electricity. I have found that this is a big safety factor.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Perhaps you could use a Pmag in the magneto hole and a lightspeed for the other ignition. http://lightspeed-aero.com/ I'm not certain but this may work.
Could be progress...ready to start on aileron and flap hinges and operation rods.
I built the aileron operating stuff for both the right and left wings at the same time since I wanted them to be a matched pair due to the droop option. Need create the flap system most of which comes out of my little pea brain and it will be very much like the Patrol system I've seen but will be operated with an overhead flap handle rather than cables down to the floor. I think that willl be a better system and won't be in the way of my left arm rest I built into the fuselage which contains the trim, throttle and intercom/XM radio control and probably the controls for my auto pilot once I get that figured out.
I built the aileron operating stuff for both the right and left wings at the same time since I wanted them to be a matched pair due to the droop option. Need create the flap system most of which comes out of my little pea brain and it will be very much like the Patrol system I've seen but will be operated with an overhead flap handle rather than cables down to the floor. I think that willl be a better system and won't be in the way of my left arm rest I built into the fuselage which contains the trim, throttle and intercom/XM radio control and probably the controls for my auto pilot once I get that figured out.
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Just saw this on the J-3 site and thought since I haven't TIGed for awhile... I'll take a look. It has some reminders and tips so it might be worth looking at if your getting ready to TIG something. Once you get there you can find other tips and tricks. Hope it helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Is47-VwkyNg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Is47-VwkyNg
Well, mid December seems to be a bad time for my hands. I was drilling out a rivet with a 5/16" bit and the bit slipped off the rivet and went about 1 1/4" into my right hand between the index finger and thumb and bleed like a stuck pig. Fortunately, it didn't hit anything of real value except some meat. I had my suture kit handy and two quick stitches stopped the bleeding for the most part. 6 days later I took the stitches are out and other than being sore everything seems to be working as designed but it may be awhile before I'm ready to grip a rivet gun. Guess I was just meant to relax and enjoy the holidays!!
Merry Christmas to everyone and the hope for a healthy and happy New Year!!
Merry Christmas to everyone and the hope for a healthy and happy New Year!!
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Merry Christmas Low,
You have reminded me of when I was a young squirt working for Sikorsky drilling holes on the special production group building S-61 helicopters for the Army and Marines to carry the President. One of my co-hole drillers who had a drawl from the hills of Kentucky was holding a part in one hand while drilling with the other. Drilled right through his finger. Funny how little things which happened many years ago come to mind with a small trigger. I don't think that he was using a 5/16" bit though. :evil:
You have reminded me of when I was a young squirt working for Sikorsky drilling holes on the special production group building S-61 helicopters for the Army and Marines to carry the President. One of my co-hole drillers who had a drawl from the hills of Kentucky was holding a part in one hand while drilling with the other. Drilled right through his finger. Funny how little things which happened many years ago come to mind with a small trigger. I don't think that he was using a 5/16" bit though. :evil:
