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Plane Power flysafe alternator???

jtuttle

Registered User
Palmer Ak
Any of you guys or girls out there got a feild approval on this alternator??? On a O-320
Jeff
 
I talked to B&C a couple of days ago, and their 20 amp vac pad version is stc'd on the cubs now, but only a couple pounds lighter than the front mount.
 
Would't this help with some of the forward c of g issues some of us have?
 
There are enviromental issues too with an alternator in the propwash! Mount cracks, crimps falling off, corrosion, vibration, CG forward, etc..

But, there is an advatage of a standard alternator being just COTS (Commercial of the Shelf).
 
Do the alternators driven off vacuum pad have shear point on shaft? ( like vacuum pumps)
 
Tom, we service a fleet of aircraft that all have the accessory gear box mount alt. and find the base mounting casting cracked fairly often. I don't know if I'd run one as a only source of power. The ones that seem to be a problem are being used hard and the ones used as a back up and not on line all the time seem ok.
If you are going for a field approval I would make a support for the back of the alt. to take some of the load off the mounting flange. My 2c good luck.
 
I wonder if you are running led bulbs if that would help, keeping the draw low. What kind of planes/engines are you guys running them on
 
RBW, They are running a bunch of equipment in the passenger compartment, the main Alt.'s are powdering regularly also. The conclusion I draw is they are great as a back up but running a load all the time greatly shortens the life. I saw one with 2000 hrs on it in a Mooney where it is a back up only, just fine. I don't know what to expect on a cub, the ones used commercial are high load and flown 100 hr/. Month.
 
This alternator is in two versions. The FS-14 is called the Fly-Safe and is used as a backup alternator. When properly installed, it is only along for the ride. When the bus voltage drops to 13.6 volts, it's regulator takes over and the alternator starts to put out enough power (amps available depend on alternator RPM) to keep bus voltage from dropping below that 13.6volts.

The FS-14B is the same alternator/regulator with the voltage adjusted up to the normal 14.2 volts to be used as a primary alternator.

Yes they do sometimes bump an oil filter, so check for clearance with your filter adapter. And no, you don't want to use an oil screen with this or any pad mounted alternator as you'll never reach all the nuts that secure the screen housing. Personally, I've never encountered the cracking problems mentioned above but agree with Algonquin that if it is an issue, fabricate a bracket to take some strain off the mounting pad.

As for a CAR 3 aircraft, install it, document the installation in the log book, fly and enjoy. If you install this on a FAR part 23 aircraft you will need a field approval. The B&C SD-20 is very similar except B&C uses an external regulator (LRC3-14). Also, I believe, the B&C is just a tad smaller in diameter. Both brands of alternators use a shear section in the drive to protect the accessory case.

This style has a lot going for it in the small aircraft world. No drive belt, mount on existing vacuum pump drive pad, internal or external regulator (depending on brand) and light weight. And if you are looking to install one of these on an operational aircraft, they are easy to mount and use minimal/simple wiring.

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I don't have an oil filter yet, any suggestions for filter that doesn't interfere? I would like to use the FS-14B, with the internal regulator. Figure it's time to replace the generator. Planning on using LED lights and trig radios, so there won't be much draw.
 
I don't have an oil filter yet, any suggestions for filter that doesn't interfere? I would like to use the FS-14B, with the internal regulator. Figure it's time to replace the generator. Planning on using LED lights and trig radios, so there won't be much draw.

I've always chosen the filter adapter by the gasket required. I like the adapters that use the standard Lycoming screen housing gasket. One less 'special' part to keep track of. Regardless, check the fit WITH a gasket under the adapter, filter installed, and alternator in place. Don't just take your buddies word that any one combination always fits.

The alternator doesn't care what the draw comes from, only the total draw. Calculate the max draw (not the breaker value) from each of your electrical components and add them together. That will be your max draw for normal electrical load. You need to keep in mind that for the first several minutes after startup, the battery will draw heavily for recharge. As this alternator is rated for a max of 30 amps (only at full alternator RPM) you need to allow time for the battery to charge up before the 30 amps would be available. And, as the full 30 amps is only available at full alternator RPM, at engine idle, you may have the 14.2 volts but something less than max current output. When you calculate the electrical load, you are going to be surprised at how little current will be required. The days of needing 40+ amps are long gone.

Any time you install an item on a Lycoming vacuum pump drive, always check over the drive gear and install new inner and outer gaskets and a new oil seal.

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