Greg's Supercub Build

Greg Campbell · Oct 28, 2013

Here are a few update pictures for the thread. I have been working on both ends of the fuse. I have had some victories and losses. The nose is coming along well. I have also pretty much finished up with the aft controls as well. I still have a few odds and ends to finish up. Examples are final grease and castle nuts on my upper pulleys. My defeat has come with this darn glass on the upper door. I've cracked it drilling twice, ug... I just need to get the right bit for an oversized #6 screw. I have two holes drilled in the top of the windshield. But I have decided to wait for the right bit to finish here. I am very close to disassembly for covering.

I am going to OK18 this weekend and I hope I get to see a bunch of you friends. That's the update. Greg

Bugs66 · Oct 28, 2013

Nice work Greg, coming along nicely! For the holes in the windshield or other plexi, you can use a .223 shell casing, heat the neck until dull red and then melt your hole. Works great and no stress riser cracks from drilling. I don't remember where I got the idea from but if you are out there, you get all the credit!

skywagon8a · Oct 29, 2013

Try a "unibit" drill. It worked great for me. There is just one cutting edge which doesn't grab and crack the plexi.

Greg Campbell · Oct 29, 2013

Thank You. I really appreciate the help. Greg

Steve's Aircraft (Brian) · Oct 29, 2013

There is a special way to "sharpen" a standard drill bit to use on acrylic plexiglas... This website http://www.plasticgenius.com/2009/03/repairing-crack-in-plexiglass.html has a fairly good pic on how to grind the bit... You still need to use a wood block backer when drilling..

Brian

Little_Cub · Oct 29, 2013

Steve's Aircraft (Brian) said:
There is a special way to "sharpen" a standard drill bit to use on acrylic plexiglas... This website http://www.plasticgenius.com/2009/03/repairing-crack-in-plexiglass.html has a fairly good pic on how to grind the bit... You still need to use a wood block backer when drilling..
Brian

also works to just heat/wear it thru in reverse.

skywagon8a · Oct 30, 2013

Little_Cub said:
also works to just heat/wear it thru in reverse.

This is the method which I used to use, until someone here mentioned the unibit. Spinning a drill backwards leaves a little pile of plexi slag on the back side of the hole. This needs to be cut off and is easier done before it cools, which happens quickly.

Greg Campbell · Oct 30, 2013

Thank You. Those are great ideas. I will give it another go after ok18. I have one missing strut coming in the mail. I'm also waiting on my ailerons and flaps. Hope to get those by December so I can finish the wing tip bows. I want to roll right along on the covering process. I'm going to put the wings on like they are just to make sure everything is right before starting to cover. Greg

cubdriver2 · Oct 30, 2013

The unibit/stepdrill doesn't grab the plexi, Alum, etc.... as it exits like a fluted bit will. It also drills a " round " hole, something a fluted drill won't do.

Glenn

rotto789 · Oct 30, 2013

skywagon8a said:
Try a "unibit" drill. It worked great for me. There is just one cutting edge which doesn't grab and crack the plexi.

Ditto the unibit procedure, worked great for Me also.

Greg Campbell · Nov 20, 2013

Update, we are working on riveting the boot cowl to support the engine cover and cowl. My helper (the whole reason this is possible) and I are learning to buck rivets. I'm glad we did the bottom first, will need a little bondo on the first rivet. We got the hang of it after that. FedEx called, the strut I was missing will arrive in the morning. Moving back to the brakes next. That's some of the stuff I'm up to. -Greg

Iflylower · Nov 20, 2013

Getting the wife invested....GOOD IDEA!

Progress, always forward. Looking good.

Steve Pierce · Nov 21, 2013

Keep up the great work Greg.

windy · Nov 21, 2013

Looks like you're moving right along, Greg. Hope to see your Cub at OK18 this spring!

Greg Campbell · Nov 22, 2013

That would be awesome Wendy. I keep believing what everybody says, just keep working on it everyday and that great day will come. I trying not to put a date on it. I'm doing as much as I can right now. I do know I miss clawing for sky, cruising across the range, and controlling that sink rate on approach like you can't believe. That is my biggest motivator. I really appreciate the support and answers to my questions from all who are helping me.

Bill Rusk · Nov 22, 2013

Awesome Greg. I know you will get her done.

Bill

C130jake · Nov 22, 2013

I found putting a piece of masking tape on the end rivet gun helps. Ymmv.

Jake

Jasperfield · Nov 22, 2013

Those circles or, smiles, around the rivets are so you can find them in the dark. Looks normal to me.

Greg Campbell · Nov 25, 2013

I will try the tape idea. I showed the top view because the gun got away from me on the bottom side on one of the rivets. I tried to doctor it up a bit. The smart builder would have practiced a bit on scrap. The guy on the Utube video made it look so easy though. Easy on the trigger..... Lesson learned. Thanks for your input.

skywagon8a · Nov 25, 2013

Reduce the air pressure and use a heavier bucking bar. Start with a low pressure and work up to a pressure that you can handle. Practice with scrap. Soft aluminum is more susceptible to defects.

Steve Pierce · Nov 25, 2013

It's called patina Greg. After it is assembled and painted you will always see it but no one else will. I have shot tens of thousands of rivets and I still get those from time to time. Actually I think I still have some panels from the polished Luscombe rebuild that had one of those out of thousands. That really tics a guy off. :evil:

Larry G · Nov 25, 2013

If I remember correctly I was at about 35-40 psi when doing rivets that size

Greg Campbell · Nov 25, 2013

Gosh, I feel not smart. I will try using the regulated side. I guess I was trying to really do it up right with 150 psi behind the gun. Steve, I hear you. It's not going to be perfect, I know, but when ever I ding something like that, It's like dang.... I've learned so much from when I started. Still so much to learn. I'm already thinking of building another Cub after this one and after I get caught up from throwing 100 bills in the fire and caught Making my wife think she more my favorite than the Cub. I tell her, but I think it's going to take some showing her. You know Furniture and Jewelry always helps. Enough Rambling, Really appreciate all of you guys.

flymore · Nov 27, 2013

Greg, the project looks great. If you get down a little just look at the first pictures you posted of the Cub. Wow...a lot of progress in a year. These things take time, just ask anyone who has done this before. A lot completed, a lot to do....baby steps.
Having your wife help is a bonus.

pittsdriver · Dec 2, 2013

If you haven't got your fabric yet the lady at Colorado Classic Aircraft does fuselage envelopes with the nicest seam you will ever see. It is so flat and perfect you can lay it right down the middle of the top stringer. Only around 60 bucks and the cost of the fabric. Don

Greg Campbell · Dec 2, 2013

That looks really nice. I do have my fabric and all my covering through silver from Jason at Stewart Systems. I bought it last year.

. I'm a little worried about my gallon of Ecofill and it's shelf life. Flyingmissdaisy I believe is his handle called me on it last winter. In my zest to get back flying I believed I would be done much sooner than reality has dictated. I had a hard dose of what ready to cover really is. That being said I am feeling covering is on the door step. I'm looking forward to visiting Bill at Poplar Grove late this month to help him and gain covering experience. My winter will be spent trying to do as much as money will allow. In the Spring I hope to have a little tax refund change to try and buy some of the other 90 percent, Used instruments, antennas, seat covers, top coat paint, transponder, and all those other things this first timer hasn't thought of. I am looking forward to hanging with everybody at Graham again this year. Trying to get as much done as I can before then. Keep the advice coming, I really appreciate it. I couldn't do this with out you guys. Greg

Greg Campbell · Dec 16, 2013

I leak tested the fuel selector valve fittings this evening. No leaks. It was good to see no leaks.

Little_Cub · Dec 16, 2013

Greg Campbell said:
I leak tested the fuel selector valve fittings this evening. No leaks. It was good to see no leaks.

Does your selector shut everything OFF when in that position or allow cross flow between the wings?
Some manufactures definition of OFF is not what you might expect. ;-)

Greg Campbell · Dec 16, 2013

I have an off, left, right and both on my valve. On the advice of a friend I plugged all four fuel tank lines and and then applied around 7 pounds of pressure. Sprayed the fittings downs with soapy water. No bubbles.

Greg Campbell · Jan 13, 2014

Hey guys. One of my friends was saying I haven't updated in a while. So here is an update. I'm installing the tip bows this week. It's going pretty well. I'm still waiting on my ailerons to get here so I'm going to wait to attach the bow to the rib next to the aileron. My ailerons come straight out instead of tapering like the certified Cubs do. On that subject if anybody out there has Smith wings like these and could send me the measurements out to the bow tip on that rib that would help. Otherwise hopefully the ailerons will arrive this month so I can get the plane ready to rig. I am ready to cover the fuse and tail feathers just want to rig it first to make sure it's all correct. I don't want any surprises after its already covered. That's the update. Sure will be great to get it flying. Greg

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