Page 3 of 11 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 419

Thread: Greg's Supercub Build

  1. #81
    Bugs66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Spokane WA
    Posts
    2,309
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great progress! Love the updates!

  2. #82

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plane1.jpg 
Views:	203 
Size:	122.0 KB 
ID:	13000Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plane2.jpg 
Views:	195 
Size:	121.0 KB 
ID:	13001
    Baggage doors roughed in.

  3. #83
    Lowrider
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Idaho Panhandle
    Posts
    1,685
    Post Thanks / Like
    Greg,

    Very nice!! Should they be hinged in the front so they will stay closed of blow against the fuselage if they become unlatched in flight?
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

    There are no new ways to crash an airplane no matter how hard you may try!

  4. #84
    Larry G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Minocqua WI
    Posts
    277
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Lowrider View Post
    Greg,

    Very nice!! Should they be hinged in the front so they will stay closed of blow against the fuselage if they become unlatched in flight?
    Thats what the lock is for.

  5. #85

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lowrider, I have seen the the upper door hinged on the side. It looks like it works good that way. I chose the hinge on the bottom the door because the frame tubing is there and will in turn make the hinge stronger there. The side of the door jam is not as strong, small c chanel and stringer. I am always open to ideas. Thanks you for your input I am considering it. Greg

    Thank you Larry, alway appreciate you input.

  6. #86
    docstory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    664
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just make sure you pull the key out of the upper baggage door after unlocking it so it doesn't scuff the paint/fabric when open.
    With guns, we are 'citizens'. Without them, we are 'subjects'.
    "To be born free is an accident. To live free is a privilege. To die free is a responsibility."
    --- Brig. Gen. Robby Risner

  7. #87

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by docstory View Post
    Just make sure you pull the key out of the upper baggage door after unlocking it so it doesn't scuff the paint/fabric when open.
    I know, I thought of that. After I was finished of course. ;( You are right, it hits right on the side stringer if you can's see in the photo. I will just pull the key every time. I'll have a silent rule to keep the key with the ignition key and never leave it in the baggage door either way. I will also make a spot for a complete spare set. Thank you doc story, Greg

  8. #88
    Lowrider
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Idaho Panhandle
    Posts
    1,685
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry G View Post
    Thats what the lock is for.
    Just trying to point out that stuff happens....lock or not.
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

    There are no new ways to crash an airplane no matter how hard you may try!

  9. #89
    docstory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    664
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Campbell View Post
    Thank you doc story, Greg
    You're welcome.
    With guns, we are 'citizens'. Without them, we are 'subjects'.
    "To be born free is an accident. To live free is a privilege. To die free is a responsibility."
    --- Brig. Gen. Robby Risner

  10. #90

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	download@1.jpg 
Views:	119 
Size:	79.3 KB 
ID:	13229Click image for larger version. 

Name:	download@2.jpg 
Views:	143 
Size:	115.3 KB 
ID:	13230Click image for larger version. 

Name:	download@3.jpg 
Views:	127 
Size:	136.3 KB 
ID:	13231
    I am working on the cowl doors. I have the hinges drilled, and I am starting to work on the bottom edge of the doors, as well as drilling the holes for the latches.

  11. #91

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo(3).JPG 
Views:	140 
Size:	193.7 KB 
ID:	13612Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo.JPG 
Views:	132 
Size:	123.8 KB 
ID:	13613Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-1.JPG 
Views:	163 
Size:	117.0 KB 
ID:	13614Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-2.JPG 
Views:	124 
Size:	140.0 KB 
ID:	13615Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-3.JPG 
Views:	132 
Size:	133.4 KB 
ID:	13616Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-4.JPG 
Views:	132 
Size:	124.9 KB 
ID:	13617Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-5.JPG 
Views:	130 
Size:	115.3 KB 
ID:	13618Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo-6.JPG 
Views:	143 
Size:	119.9 KB 
ID:	13619

    Here are a few update pictures for the thread. I have been working on both ends of the fuse. I have had some victories and losses. The nose is coming along well. I have also pretty much finished up with the aft controls as well. I still have a few odds and ends to finish up. Examples are final grease and castle nuts on my upper pulleys. My defeat has come with this darn glass on the upper door. I've cracked it drilling twice, ug... I just need to get the right bit for an oversized #6 screw. I have two holes drilled in the top of the windshield. But I have decided to wait for the right bit to finish here. I am very close to disassembly for covering.

    I am going to OK18 this weekend and I hope I get to see a bunch of you friends. That's the update. Greg

  12. #92
    Bugs66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Spokane WA
    Posts
    2,309
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice work Greg, coming along nicely! For the holes in the windshield or other plexi, you can use a .223 shell casing, heat the neck until dull red and then melt your hole. Works great and no stress riser cracks from drilling. I don't remember where I got the idea from but if you are out there, you get all the credit!

  13. #93
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    9,373
    Post Thanks / Like
    Try a "unibit" drill. It worked great for me. There is just one cutting edge which doesn't grab and crack the plexi.
    N1PA

  14. #94

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank You. I really appreciate the help. Greg

  15. #95
    Steve's Aircraft (Brian)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    White City, Oregon
    Posts
    899
    Post Thanks / Like
    There is a special way to "sharpen" a standard drill bit to use on acrylic plexiglas... This website http://www.plasticgenius.com/2009/03...lexiglass.html has a fairly good pic on how to grind the bit... You still need to use a wood block backer when drilling..

    Brian

  16. #96
    Little_Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve's Aircraft (Brian) View Post
    There is a special way to "sharpen" a standard drill bit to use on acrylic plexiglas... This website http://www.plasticgenius.com/2009/03...lexiglass.html has a fairly good pic on how to grind the bit... You still need to use a wood block backer when drilling..
    Brian
    also works to just heat/wear it thru in reverse.

  17. #97
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    9,373
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Little_Cub View Post
    also works to just heat/wear it thru in reverse.
    This is the method which I used to use, until someone here mentioned the unibit. Spinning a drill backwards leaves a little pile of plexi slag on the back side of the hole. This needs to be cut off and is easier done before it cools, which happens quickly.
    N1PA

  18. #98

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank You. Those are great ideas. I will give it another go after ok18. I have one missing strut coming in the mail. I'm also waiting on my ailerons and flaps. Hope to get those by December so I can finish the wing tip bows. I want to roll right along on the covering process. I'm going to put the wings on like they are just to make sure everything is right before starting to cover. Greg
    Thanks Beaverpilot thanked for this post

  19. #99
    cubdriver2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    upstate NY
    Posts
    9,820
    Post Thanks / Like
    The unibit/stepdrill doesn't grab the plexi, Alum, etc.... as it exits like a fluted bit will. It also drills a " round " hole, something a fluted drill won't do.

    Glenn

  20. #100
    Yooper Cub rotto789's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mi. ( Yooper)
    Posts
    194
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Try a "unibit" drill. It worked great for me. There is just one cutting edge which doesn't grab and crack the plexi.
    Ditto the unibit procedure, worked great for Me also.

  21. #101

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo(4).JPG 
Views:	238 
Size:	80.1 KB 
ID:	13943Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Photo 7.JPG 
Views:	341 
Size:	92.4 KB 
ID:	13945
    Update, we are working on riveting the boot cowl to support the engine cover and cowl. My helper (the whole reason this is possible) and I are learning to buck rivets. I'm glad we did the bottom first, will need a little bondo on the first rivet. We got the hang of it after that. FedEx called, the strut I was missing will arrive in the morning. Moving back to the brakes next. That's some of the stuff I'm up to. -Greg

  22. #102
    Iflylower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    1,350
    Post Thanks / Like
    Getting the wife invested....GOOD IDEA!


    Progress, always forward. Looking good.

  23. #103
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,760
    Post Thanks / Like
    Keep up the great work Greg.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  24. #104
    windy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    632
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks like you're moving right along, Greg. Hope to see your Cub at OK18 this spring!

  25. #105

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    That would be awesome Wendy. I keep believing what everybody says, just keep working on it everyday and that great day will come. I trying not to put a date on it. I'm doing as much as I can right now. I do know I miss clawing for sky, cruising across the range, and controlling that sink rate on approach like you can't believe. That is my biggest motivator. I really appreciate the support and answers to my questions from all who are helping me.

  26. #106
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Spokane Felts Field, WA/Poplar Grove, (Chicago) IL
    Posts
    5,236
    Post Thanks / Like
    Awesome Greg. I know you will get her done.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  27. #107
    C130jake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    381
    Post Thanks / Like
    I found putting a piece of masking tape on the end rivet gun helps. Ymmv.

    Jake

  28. #108

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Those circles or, smiles, around the rivets are so you can find them in the dark. Looks normal to me.
    Thanks rmac thanked for this post

  29. #109

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    I will try the tape idea. I showed the top view because the gun got away from me on the bottom side on one of the rivets. I tried to doctor it up a bit. The smart builder would have practiced a bit on scrap. The guy on the Utube video made it look so easy though. Easy on the trigger..... Lesson learned. Thanks for your input.

  30. #110
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    9,373
    Post Thanks / Like
    Reduce the air pressure and use a heavier bucking bar. Start with a low pressure and work up to a pressure that you can handle. Practice with scrap. Soft aluminum is more susceptible to defects.
    N1PA

  31. #111
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    18,760
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's called patina Greg. After it is assembled and painted you will always see it but no one else will. I have shot tens of thousands of rivets and I still get those from time to time. Actually I think I still have some panels from the polished Luscombe rebuild that had one of those out of thousands. That really tics a guy off.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  32. #112
    Larry G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Minocqua WI
    Posts
    277
    Post Thanks / Like
    If I remember correctly I was at about 35-40 psi when doing rivets that size

  33. #113

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Gosh, I feel not smart. I will try using the regulated side. I guess I was trying to really do it up right with 150 psi behind the gun. Steve, I hear you. It's not going to be perfect, I know, but when ever I ding something like that, It's like dang.... I've learned so much from when I started. Still so much to learn. I'm already thinking of building another Cub after this one and after I get caught up from throwing 100 bills in the fire and caught Making my wife think she more my favorite than the Cub. I tell her, but I think it's going to take some showing her. You know Furniture and Jewelry always helps. Enough Rambling, Really appreciate all of you guys.

  34. #114
    flymore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    OKC
    Posts
    58
    Post Thanks / Like
    Greg, the project looks great. If you get down a little just look at the first pictures you posted of the Cub. Wow...a lot of progress in a year. These things take time, just ask anyone who has done this before. A lot completed, a lot to do....baby steps.
    Having your wife help is a bonus.
    David Childs

    "Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right!"
    Henry Ford

  35. #115
    pittsdriver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    217
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you haven't got your fabric yet the lady at Colorado Classic Aircraft does fuselage envelopes with the nicest seam you will ever see. It is so flat and perfect you can lay it right down the middle of the top stringer. Only around 60 bucks and the cost of the fabric. DonClick image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0856.jpg 
Views:	116 
Size:	150.3 KB 
ID:	14101Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0862.jpg 
Views:	90 
Size:	130.5 KB 
ID:	14102
    Vans RV7 finished 2008
    Backcountry Super Cub finished 2011
    A&P Aircraft rebuilding, Building assistance
    1956 Supercub complete rebuild
    Likes overactor liked this post

  36. #116

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    That looks really nice. I do have my fabric and all my covering through silver from Jason at Stewart Systems. I bought it last year. . I'm a little worried about my gallon of Ecofill and it's shelf life. Flyingmissdaisy I believe is his handle called me on it last winter. In my zest to get back flying I believed I would be done much sooner than reality has dictated. I had a hard dose of what ready to cover really is. That being said I am feeling covering is on the door step. I'm looking forward to visiting Bill at Poplar Grove late this month to help him and gain covering experience. My winter will be spent trying to do as much as money will allow. In the Spring I hope to have a little tax refund change to try and buy some of the other 90 percent, Used instruments, antennas, seat covers, top coat paint, transponder, and all those other things this first timer hasn't thought of. I am looking forward to hanging with everybody at Graham again this year. Trying to get as much done as I can before then. Keep the advice coming, I really appreciate it. I couldn't do this with out you guys. Greg

  37. #117

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    I leak tested the fuel selector valve fittings this evening. No leaks. It was good to see no leaks.

  38. #118
    Little_Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Campbell View Post
    I leak tested the fuel selector valve fittings this evening. No leaks. It was good to see no leaks.
    Does your selector shut everything OFF when in that position or allow cross flow between the wings?
    Some manufactures definition of OFF is not what you might expect.

  39. #119

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have an off, left, right and both on my valve. On the advice of a friend I plugged all four fuel tank lines and and then applied around 7 pounds of pressure. Sprayed the fittings downs with soapy water. No bubbles.

  40. #120

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    296
    Post Thanks / Like
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo(4).JPG 
Views:	133 
Size:	134.9 KB 
ID:	14579Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo(5).JPG 
Views:	146 
Size:	126.3 KB 
ID:	14580Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo(6).JPG 
Views:	130 
Size:	121.1 KB 
ID:	14581
    Hey guys. One of my friends was saying I haven't updated in a while. So here is an update. I'm installing the tip bows this week. It's going pretty well. I'm still waiting on my ailerons to get here so I'm going to wait to attach the bow to the rib next to the aileron. My ailerons come straight out instead of tapering like the certified Cubs do. On that subject if anybody out there has Smith wings like these and could send me the measurements out to the bow tip on that rib that would help. Otherwise hopefully the ailerons will arrive this month so I can get the plane ready to rig. I am ready to cover the fuse and tail feathers just want to rig it first to make sure it's all correct. I don't want any surprises after its already covered. That's the update. Sure will be great to get it flying. Greg

Similar Threads

  1. Cal's Supercub Build
    By Iflylower in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 122
    Last Post: 10-15-2011, 08:23 PM
  2. Replies: 15
    Last Post: 05-02-2007, 09:04 PM
  3. need help to find or build a supercub jig
    By funcub in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-08-2003, 03:05 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •