Lubrication: Rudder Pedals, Brake Pedals and Torque Tube

I searched, but couldn't find what I was looking for. So, here's my question -- what do y'all use to lubricate the rudder and brake pedals, and the torque tube bearing surfaces?

The L-21 manual shows "Oil, General Purpose" which was to meet specification 'AN-O-6', which was effective in 1955. Surely there's a current lubricant that's a bit improved over that 57 year old spec.

If you use grease, and I have seen torque tube caps with zerk fittings on them, how do you insure the grease gets all the way around to the bearing surface of the lower support? Similarly, how do you re-lube the brake and rudder pedals with grease, come annual time, without disassembling the under-floor mounts?

I suspect there's a really simple answer to this -- but I have difficulties with both simple and not-so-simple problems alike !!


Thanks in advance, guys,

Andy

Once assembled and covered you have to resort to spray lube for the rudder and brake pedals. first get in there the best you can with a blow gun and try to blast out all the grass, dirt, and sand from the pedal bearing area. Then use a spray on lube that dries to avoid leaving a super tacky surface that will attract grit. Take a lighter and heat form the end of the spray lube red straw into a 45-90 deg bend so you can get the lube on the bearing surface through the floor board. Since you have no idea what kind of lube was put on the pedal when the plane was last covered you may want to use something that is compatible with most greases. The torque tube caps are easily removed and you can lift the torque tube up out of the way to clean all the old residue and dried up lube. I use a white lithium grease and slobber it in there, re-assmble and wipe off the excess.

Jason

when assembling new plane, I use a light white Lubraplate grease... also sand out most of the powder coating off pedal bearing area and mounts first so pedals don't get loose and floppy once powder coating wears off...

Thanks for the info, guys!!! Wish I could post a pic or two, but it's just too d*mned complicated. Anyway, I've removed the powder coating like Mike said, on the pedals and clamps.

Now, my next question is in response to Jason's comment:

"Since you have no idea what kind of lube was put on the pedal when the plane was last covered you may want to use something that is compatible with most greases."

Can you recommend a brand or type of spray-on lube that is compatible with Lubriplate or other lithium grease I intend to use on the pedals and torque tube?

Oh, and Jason, if Steve Pierce puts on another seminar / gathering in 2013, will you be there to demo the Stewart Systems stuff? By then I hope to have a number of things ready to cover, and Stewart's appears to be the way to go.

Andy

Go check out your local bicycle shop, they make some great lube that's not sticky and clings to moving parts. Sometimes a spray is hard to direct where you want it and they have a few squeeze bottles with a delivery tube.

Glenn

Hey Andy,

I plan to be at Steve Pierces in Feb, You'll have to check with him on the schedule but I believe there will be some cool fabric projects for everyone to see and help work on.

Regarding a lube... If you start with a lithium based grease you can buy spray lithium based grease as well. Same for graphite based lubes. Look up the staylube, lubriplate, and CRC products. I can't suggest anyone being better than the other. Like choosing oil for your engine.

I have been using tri-flow in a squeeze bottle with a straw on it that I got from a bike shop to lube control surface pins and rudder/brake pedals. Tri-Flow is not supposed to attract dirt which I like and it's a combination of PTFE and light oils. Does not leave a heavy waxy build up. I lube often about every 10-15 hours.

I remove the caps on the torque tube about every 100-150 hours to clean and lube with grease.

You might look at some of the fire arms lube industry lubricants.

Jason

I still like STP on close tolerance parts when doing an assembly, landing gear bolts, torque tube, pulley pins, etc.....

Glenn

I just sprayed LPS1 in there, I’m now thinking I’m an idiot. I just bought new bearing caps so if it was a mistake I can pull and clean and re-install.

I have put 5000 hours on a Cub with only a shot of SAE 30 or 50 every 25 hours. Dirty, but nothing has worn out so far.

Lock ease graphite spray or squirt bottle doesn't attract as much dirt.

I use high pressure grease for assembly and LPS2 during servicing.