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Atlee Fuel Tank Leak Repair

aviationinfo

aviationinfo

Registered User
Southwest WA
Am looking for advice.

I will be pulling one of my Atlee 30.5 gallon tanks to repair a leak that has developed. Would prefer to take them some place locally to save time but just found out that FAD can weld them. Obviously there are advantages to having the manufacturer perform the repair.

At this point the tank is still in the wing so I haven't pinpointed exactly where the leak (more like a seep) is occurring. although it seems like it's on top at the rear corner. Does welding these tanks take more skill than an average welder (I would use someone who has repaired aircraft tanks before) has? Would I be better off just sending them to Atlee?

They told me that right now there's up to a 3-1/2 week turnaround. Worth the wait if they are the best ones for the job. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Make sure you reshim it when it gets back. Also make sure it is supported ALL the wat across and not just at the corners. Might look at that before pulling it. As always check fit each 100 hrs.

I just use atlees but its local for me....
 
I just went through that a few months ago. Mine was leaking from a tiny hairline crack around the filler neck. Avgas was running down across the top of the tank, running back and dripping out of one of the seaplane drain grommets. I replaced it with one of Atlee's replacement filler neck kits, no more problems there. While I had the tank out, I noticed a three inch long pencil-line sized groove in the top of the tank, so just to be safe, I took the tank to a friend of mine who is a certified TIG welder. He filled the tank with water and ran a bead along the groove, filling it in. He drained the water out and purged the tank with Nitrogen to remove any traces of moisture, and then buffed the cap off the top of the bead. I reprimed the tank with two part epoxy primer and reinstalled it. No more problems, and none anticipated.
 
Anyone with thin aluminum welding experience should not have a problem since it is likely a small crack. A major repair is another matter... takes more than just welding skill.
 
I have the 30 gallon Atlee tanks also. The one in the left wing has a pin hole leak in the upper leading edge. I used some epoxy and rubbed in that area and it stopped. It was only a stain so it was easy to follow as to where it was leaking. I like the added fuel for longer trips. I remember reading somewhere that you should not be doing touch and goes or any landings with full tanks because of the added weight.
 
mike mcs repair said:
Make sure you reshim it when it gets back. Also make sure it is supported ALL the wat across and not just at the corners. Might look at that before pulling it. As always check fit each 100 hrs.

I just use atlees but its local for me....
Click to expand...
Mike, I'm not familiar with the installation in detail, are you finding that the fit changes over time? Or has someone adjusted the washout in between the inspections? Should the tank be sitting on a soft flexible bed to reduce the tendency to crack from the flexing of the wing?
 
aviationinfo said:
Am looking for advice.

I will be pulling one of my Atlee 30.5 gallon tanks to repair a leak that has developed. Would prefer to take them some place locally to save time but just found out that FAD can weld them. Obviously there are advantages to having the manufacturer perform the repair.

At this point the tank is still in the wing so I haven't pinpointed exactly where the leak (more like a seep) is occurring. although it seems like it's on top at the rear corner. Does welding these tanks take more skill than an average welder (I would use someone who has repaired aircraft tanks before) has? Would I be better off just sending them to Atlee?

They told me that right now there's up to a 3-1/2 week turnaround. Worth the wait if they are the best ones for the job. Thanks for your thoughts.
Click to expand...

Any good aluminumwelder can do it. Clean it really, really good.
 
I'm not familiar with the installation in detail, are you finding that the fit changes over time? Or has someone adjusted the washout in between the inspections? Should the tank be sitting on a soft flexible bed to reduce the tendency to crack from the flexing of the wing?
Click to expand...
The STC specifies that the fit be checked each annual. It also specifies that the tank lips lie on foam tape, applied after shimming. It seems it would be a real stinker to change shimming after the fabric is on, because I put the fabric over the shimming. That might not have been real bright of me! Then again, it would seem that unless washout is changed, the tank fit shouldn't change?
 
Andy,a shop in Troutdale was doing beef-ups and repair on the Atlee tanks, but I don't know which one. You might look around over there.

TJ
 
skywagon8a said:
Mike, I'm not familiar with the installation in detail, are you finding that the fit changes over time? Or has someone adjusted the washout in between the inspections? Should the tank be sitting on a soft flexible bed to reduce the tendency to crack from the flexing of the wing?
Click to expand...

yes the wing changes in use....

tank fit/rocking supposed to be checked every 100 hr & annual

want to see something impressive, put a wing on fuselage before you put leading edge on, leave jury struts out and go lift and twist wing tip.... it moves ALL over right out board of tank.... then put jury struts on and it still moves a touch...

some cub wings are "softer"/flexible than others, depending on leading edge skin attachment to spars/wrinkles, and whether full wrap leading edge goes to end, and extended leading edge..
 
Thx all for the info.

Mike, I don't have access to the installation manual but am working on it. Does the tank "hang" in or is it just sitting on top of its bay? In other words, does the shimming take place underneath the tank or on top of it? Am worried that if the shimming is underneath the tank that the fabric on the underside is going to have to be removed to see it. Thx for setting me straight.
 
aviationinfo said:
Thx all for the info.

Mike, I don't have access to the installation manual but am working on it. Does the tank "hang" in or is it just sitting on top of its bay? In other words, does the shimming take place underneath the tank or on top of it? Am worried that if the shimming is underneath the tank that the fabric on the underside is going to have to be removed to see it. Thx for setting me straight.
Click to expand...

the tank is only supported by the front and back 'lips'.... you shim on top of spar, under wood blocks that are under the lips, and you MUST shim at various points along length of tank, not just ends to match tank shape, or tank will only be supported at corners, and crack...
 
Do stock -12 tanks need to be shimmed in this manner too, or is this just specific to the Atlee STC tanks?
 
7D0FE848-EF3D-4886-A1E8-78F12B8B8797.jpegI have a leaking tank when it is more than half full. Appears to be around the fuel sender. Don’t know the tank manufacturer but it is 24 gallons and guessing Dakota. Any suggestion on how to fix this and the type of gasket it might use? Thanks in advance.
imagejpeg
 

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  • 7D0FE848-EF3D-4886-A1E8-78F12B8B8797.jpeg
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Wag2+2 said:
View attachment 48604I have a leaking tank when it is more than half full. Appears to be around the fuel sender. Don’t know the tank manufacturer but it is 24 gallons and guessing Dakota. Any suggestion on how to fix this and the type of gasket it might use? Thanks in advance.
imagejpeg
Click to expand...

THAT flavor fuel gauge is a Stewart Warner sender... any auto parts store will be able to find you the gasket ....will see if i can find the part number for the sender...
 
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