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Stewart Systems Paint - Tiny Blisters

Beach Bum

Registered User
Acworth, GA
What causes small blisters to appear in Stewart Systems paint when it gets wet or very high humidity? We moved the plane to the hangar at the airport for final assembly. During the process we have received a fair amount of rain and I get a lot of water leaking under the door increasing the humidity. With regard to painting, most of the plane has been painted for well over a month. I finally figured the application of the paint to get good results but now the paint gets tiny blisters in high humidity conditions. When it dries the blisters go away. I'm assuming I have bad news coming and will need to recover and paint again to not have this occur. The help from Jason and the other guys at Stewarts have been real helpful but now this, I'm frustrated and upset as I'm probably looking at a lot of money to get this right if this doesn't somehow work its way out over time.

We’ve moved the airplane to another hanger. Anyone experience this? What happens over time, better or worse?

Chris
 
its called "solvent entrapment" happens with any coating,

but search here for that, there are 3 threads about it..
 
I am following this closely. I am a convert when it comes to the glue and Ekofill, but have not tried spraying anything. I can tell you that butyrate dope seems to adhere to the Ekofill - I am hoping that they can certify an alternate finish some day.
 
I know of a couple planes with this system...mixed results...One J-5 ...several blister spots...some peeling...the other, also a J-5 with only the wings done in Stewarts...They are beautiful, with no issues...Did my 4 place custom cub in Stewarts...All surfaces are done, some for a couple years...but I have not assembled the plane...They all are still i great shape...With all that said...I don't think this is "its called "solvent entrapment" happens with any coating" ...it water born...and some of the bubbles happen right away and some have months...several months later...

Even with the continued issues...I will STILL use this system...just wish the the bugs could all be worked out...
 
....I don't think this is "its called "solvent entrapment" happens with any coating" ...it water born......

it is, it's something you try to avoid with any coating.....

although "solvent" may not be the exact right word now,

but it IS what has happened.....

you can even read about it in the Stitts book from the 1960's, and how to avoid it with that system.....
 
Anyone with this occurring and after months/years does it cure and resolve itself? Hearing and reading about the cause but wanted to know the long term issues. One guy at my field said he had it happen once and it never came back again. Like I said earlier, if I leave the tiny blister alone when it comes up, it will disappear once the humidity drops or dries. I put the plane in a new hangar last night and it's been raining since then. I'll see what I have today!
 
My wings were painted in September 10 and have had the tiny blisters in rain, no visible signs other than that. They seem to be getting better with time although it's our summer here so will have to wait till winter to finally tell. I don't think you need to panic.
 
sounds like you didn't allow enough time between coats....i repainted my pod, struts and recovered my tail feathers and used stewarts--awesome stuff--it's all new to me though but it was easy to work with--

-you may need to scuff those areas and repaint....

-the things i saw with me and my buddy who has redone the things i redid also to include his wings was not enough paint, holding gun to far back and not allowing the paint to tack up before applying next coat....

-too much paint and not enough dry time raised the paint and gave those areas "rough" like spots--my buddy re-sanded his tanks, then i believe he did two re-tack coats then a final coat-- this happened to me slightly when i painted 4 gas caps--

--only problem i have with mine this winter is a new year fire cracker got to the top of my stab and now i have some cracked paint about the diameter of a nickel with a spot smaller than an eraser head down to the fabric--will talk to jason and see how to deal with this but am not to concerned....

**keep in contact with Jason, customer service is awesome! he recently came to anch and helped with my buddies plane for about 5 days and really got him dialed in on the process (i couldn't be there as much as i wanted) but it was good info, awesome customer support
--But, i feel you need to call and chat with him, because i really felt there were a lot of things that were SUPER knowledgable that wasn't in the manual--things we overworked, things we could have done better, spray techniques etc (lot's of, that would have been nice to know comments i used when he was here)---but in the end we followed the directions and called many times and i feel super stoked on how it turned out--obviously could be better but i went into as, as long as it holds up over the years and i don't pay someone to do it even if the paint isn't as clear as a pro would do i would be ahead!!

in the end, hold the gun closer than you think, be a bit quicker while applying and ensure it's tack ready before next coat
 
I try to find the positive in things:lol:. I can't here. I used it and I really can't say enough bad things about Stewarts Paint. I wish I had been warned.
 
Where is every one getting the water to mix with it could have all kinds of chemicals and minerals that could cause a reaction best to use distilled water
 
Same thing happened to mine when I moved it to the hanger. Sat just fine in my shop for over a year but almost over night it broke out in the hanger. My painting conditions were not all that good. Either to warm or cold. None the less, the blister did lay back down after a few weeks. Only the very largest of the blisters left any scaring. Havent noticed any peeling or cracking from any of them other than the few I picked at so dont play with them and they should be fine. I was told that there should be no long term issues stemming from the blisters.
 
The service from Stewarts is great, always there with minimal waiting to talk to someone. Here is my take on the product. There's lots to like about the product including the glue and primer. It was awesome. For me, the top coat has been a pain all the way and I finally worked out most of the issue but never got reliable results that were excellent. My biggest mistake...you must paint in 65 degrees or better on the temps. In the end I'm sure the issues I've had are my fault. I just think it's a pretty technical product and not real forgiving. Now the tiny blisters...lovely...
 
In the olden days the top coat was discretionary. My Cub can legally be covered in Stits with butyrate or house paint on top. Then a local outfit put some boat paint on an antique, and in flight the entire paint coat peeled off. The rest is history - but that particular problem is no reason to exclude finishes that work, a including dope, acrylic enamel, aero thane, and others that do not actively attack the silver and clear coats. I think Stewarts ought to certify at least dope and rand thane on top. Opinion.
 
I didn't like the finish i got so I sanded and shot Randthane over it. Doug and Dan said they have no problem with that and there are no compatability issues. i am thinking thin coat of white Stewart paint and then Randthane.
 
Amen, Stever. That is exactely what I do, except with Superflite over the white.
Jim
Vagabond N4699H
 
My Dad and I just finished his cub in September with Stewarts system. It has a little bit of a learning curve, if your used to any other system, but once you get going it works really good. We had really good results with the painting, and I have not noticed any blistering of the paint. I really like the way it sprayed on metal surfaces. I wouldnt hesitate to use it again. There is a lot to be said about how much safer it is to use.
2011 flying 612.jpg
 

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Great Looking Cub! "There is a lot to be said about how much safer it is to use." ....Very True...That is the one big plus for me...
 
as i watch the replies to this, I get annoyed, (again..)

as this is not really an issue/problem with the top coat itself, as it is an issue with what came before it, that is still out-gassing, when it got sealed in......

( but everyone condemns the top coat, because that where the issue shows up...)
 
Mike, I think you're right on... but I'd also suspect a little bit of prep. I watched the Eco Fill absorb some sprayed penetrating oil that had been used across the shop on another project. Once you start, it shouldn't leave the paint room, and be kept very clean until it's top coated. I've also seen so many people not understand how many contaminants come off their clothes and hands that it's not funny.
It's not that tough, just different.
John
 
as i watch the replies to this, I get annoyed, (again..)

as this is not really an issue/problem with the top coat itself, as it is an issue with what came before it, that is still out-gassing, when it got sealed in......

( but everyone condemns the top coat, because that where the issue shows up...)



Mike, I have a great deal of respect for your advice and comments...but with that being said...it does become frustrating for folks when they do things consistently and even side by side with varied results... I suggest you give it a shot sometime... You might experience something that enlightens us...

R
 
Not having any problems at all with minor repairs. I am not careful with contaminants, and have not done the recommended alcohol cleaning. A patch on the belly flew for a month before getting spotted with butyrate. If I do everything wrong, how come I am not suffering blisters?
 
Mike, I don't agree. The echofil is not in my opinion trapping water. It is not sealed like the polyurethane. You are using water as a carrier of paint. That water has to evaporate. If the paint forms a film on top it will trap the moisture inside. Conditions have to be right with lots of air circulation to evaporate the water. Talked to the automotive guys using similar systems here. They have way better equipped booths than most of us and their reducers smell of alcohol and are not water. It is a great system but I don't see the consistancy in the top coat that I do with other solvent based paints. Everything is a compromise.
 
Mike, your comments are pretty damn valuable but on this one the green horn is piping up. Between coats I waited from " the paint should not transfer to your finger" to dry enough I could wipe my hand across the wing, probably 40 minutes. Still had the problem. But that's why I consider the paint not forgiving and technical. Step out of line a little and results suffer a lot.

Like cutting a diamond in the back of a pick up truck. A southern analogy.
 
I am down on the Texas coast getting ready to shoot the Top Coat where it is real humid. You got me nervous now. Any one else used it in a real humid environment.
 
The best finishes that I got were I did several lights coats, almost up to the final coat, and then came back later to do the final coat...

On my Ailerons, I painted my final coat on one side...months later...that was the best finish on the entire project...
 
Does it help if I only give it one light coat per day, or do you have to put the next coat on when it is just tack free.
 
Roger...I followed the regular procedure for many coats...ended up to be about 12 minutes between coats...then waited an hour or so...Might be totally wrong...but.....worked best for me... As I have said...not always the most consistent results... but the safety of the product is what I want...after all...I am not building a "Show Plane"...but I am building a "Go Plane"IMG_3334.JPG
 

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